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Everything posted by Smartin

  1. When I painted the underside of the trunk lid, it seemed like it was a touch too green. I didn't pursue the issue until I could get it into some good light. Well, it was. So some adjustments were made at the supply store (thank god they were open yesterday) and we have what I can safely say is as close as I could get to the original color. There was some original paint left on the top inside of the doors, but it wasn't true to the color because it was somewhat thin. So, here we are. I shot the base late yesterday, and got up early this morning and hosed a bunch of clear on it
  2. I started using 3M dry guide coat to be able to see where I have been a lot easier. I hate getting a panel all dried off and finding that I have to do it all over again because I only got about 2/3 of the orange peel out.
  3. Looks like he vaulted his ceiling. The shortest QUALITY 2-post lift I could find was a Challenger SA10. My ceilings are just shy of 12', and I have about 2" of clearance after installed.
  4. FYI the Heartland regional meet is still on schedule in St. Louis Sept 10-12. https://stlouisbuickclub.net/
  5. I fixed the fender...got them both hung on the rotisserie ends in the position that they will hang on the car. Hoping for paint on Saturday evening into Sunday morning!
  6. 2 post lifts require 12' ceilings
  7. Looks great, Mud! Don't sweat the orange peel. It is never going to lay completely flat. For wet sanding, start with 1000 grit wrapped around a Durablock like the one in the photo I am attaching (using a block like this eliminates those "ripples" created when using your bare hands). Then move to 2000. Use your palm for the curved areas. If you want to go further, it just makes buffing easier. Depending on your buffing method, other grits may be used. But 3000 is as far as I go, on a DA hook and loop disc. I use a rotary buffer. I do see a lot of people moving to orbital b
  8. With all of the dry times in between coats and stages, and cleaning guns, that's probably not unrealistic.
  9. It is very pretty! I final sanded the passenger fender today, only to find a large low area running along the middle length of the fender. Compared it with the other fender...definitely a low spot. So, I worked it out, but I now have to start over with body work on this fender. Bummer, since I was shooting to have paint done this weekend. This will put me behind (hopefully) about a week.
  10. It is supposed to be. The doors still have original paint on them inside the jambs, so I will confirm. But it looks very close.
  11. With the amount of miles that will likely be put on this car, I would grease it and put it together. My 60 also had a squeak at neighborhood speeds (25mph)...U-joint wasn't dust, but it was dry as a bone and ready for replacement.
  12. Fenders and hood are in 2K primer...color is near! Possibly this weekend.
  13. The tick sounds like an exhaust leak...maybe it's the video sound...
  14. That gasket looks like it's lived its life already...but I am no spokesman for the old straight 8's.
  15. Since I have the new shop under control now, I got started back up on the convertible. Continuing with body work on the fenders. These things must have been moved around for 40 years in storage. They are a total mess. Rust free, though! My new goal for paint is mid-April. Seems attainable, right? Maybe I'll get quarantined and will have to do nothing but work on this. If that's the case, then it'll be painted in less than 2 weeks. I don't know if I'm that lucky, though. I did start to pull some more parts off the parts car this evening after air filing and block
  16. These photos are of my car when I was selling it on ebay...
  17. Possibly "duct seal"? Grey putty that comes in a brick. Rip off however much you need and it will stay pliable forever.
  18. Those wheel well photos are from my ebay auction when I sold (my) Laurel in 2014. The shots of your car make me miss it very much!
  19. Those wheel well photos look familiar 😎
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