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Everything posted by Smartin

  1. The new owner picked up the car on Sunday. While working on the brake issues, we decided to go through the cooling system and clean out the radiator, and replace the water pump. They intend to drive this car a lot, so we wanted to make sure there were no hidden problems that I never really got to sort out. The radio is still out at the shop doing the conversion, so once that gets back here, I'll install it for him at his place. He also indicated last night that the dash lights aren't working. So I am on the hunt for a headlight switch if anyone has one handy. They
  2. OK Buick people: Rear shoes were arced to their respective drums. All new hardware installed at the same time, with organic shoes. Front shoes were checked to drums and they look really good. I did a preliminary adjustment in the air before I put the car down. When I hit the brake pedal for the first time, it went to the floor. It hardly stopped the car when I put it in reverse. I drove it around the neighborhood very gingerly and brought it back to the house to readjust all 4 corners. After I did that, the brakes responded better. Once I thought I cou
  3. It's simple enough to pull the old cable out and slide another used one in. I would do that before buying a replacement. If you can't get to the old one because it's broken off just inside the sheath, remove the other end at the transmission and push it back through.
  4. The big cars are wider and longer...and the Limited is even longer. Here is the one I bought...states it is for all of them https://www.ebay.com/itm/1954-1958-Buick-Speedometer-Cable-Correct-Armored-Case/182499153024?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  5. I would remove the cables from the housings and compare. Easiest way to tell if they will work or not. It comes out through the top, at the speedo.If it's broken at the speedo, then you may have to push it out from the bottom by unhooking it from the trans.
  6. The one in my 57 was snapped off too. I replaced it when I did the transmission swap. Works like a charm now. What I did find out, was that the speedometer was so gummed up that I could hardly turn it by hand. I removed the cluster as you did, and took it apart. Lubed it up and reinstalled. It's the smoothest 57-58 speedometer that I've ever seen. The cable I bought was from CARS. If you go this route, I would recommend replacing the entire cable/sheath through the firewall. The old inner cable vs the new one are slightly different lengths. I replaced only the inner cable on mine to
  7. Although, I think the biggest reason I didn't buy a big blaster to begin with, was because I didn't have the proper air compressor to handle it. Both of those items together cost me about $3k
  8. Yep. Fairly large investment and takes up some real estate, but pays in (large) dividends. You will wonder how you ever survived without it.
  9. A local chapter member made this in 2003 ish...and it was raffled off at a regional. Somehow, it ended up back in my hands and I have hoarded it since then. There was also another one raffled off in 2006 at Rochester, and I tried to buy it from the winner for $200 but he wasn't having it. Would've been a great brother to this one. I think it was a trishield, with the same dimensions as this one.
  10. I would have thought you could pick out all of the authenticity issues without needing to ask me why I thought the price would top out at $12k. I got good money for my car because it’s an excellent example.
  11. and good luck getting any more out of it. It might be able to squeak 12, but as others have said, all that "flare" has to go. And the Auto Zone air cleaner.
  12. Thanks guys. Lance, it’s all good. It’s been 2 weeks now, and things were already in motion.
  13. Me too! The last 2 weeks were taken up by Mom's passing. I am leaving for Cancun tomorrow morning...so maybe two more weeks before another update 😁
  14. If the vacuum diaphragm fails in the oil pump, the engine vacuum will suck oil up through the wiper motor and into the intake manifold, causing smoke to come out of the exhaust. I had this happen to me on my 58. It was only coming out of the left side exhaust. I thought I blew a head gasket. Thankfully Gene Reynolds was near by and "fixed" my problem by plugging that side of the wiper motor. The smoke cleared up in about 30 minutes.
  15. Did you have the wiper motor connected to the oil/vacuum pump when the smoking started?
  16. I could see that the shoes were wearing only in one spot about an inch wide on the shoes. It was also glaringly obvious that they were mis-matched to the drums when I placed them inside. I had checked them visually with the front drums when I replaced them before, but the fronts are fine. I guess you know what happens when you ASSume. This repair will be under $100, so hopefully it makes a big improvement. The last thing I want to do is deal with the MC/booster again.
  17. I had checked the fronts, and they are still ok....the lining guy agreed today that they don't need work. Rears are a different story, though. I had neglected to check them when I did the fronts. I dropped the rears off this afternoon. He is going to machine the shoes to fit the rear drums.
  18. I pulled the left rear drum off today, and the shoe is not even close to the right arc. After some research, I wasn't interested in spending $400 plus shipping on a new set of 4 drums. I found a local place about 40 minutes away that will re-arc shoes to drums. He basically replaces the shoes with a size that is thicker and matches the circumference of the newly turned drums. It will be about 2 weeks I think before I can confirm if this fixes things.
  19. Gets me every time...that heater delete! Great progress...thanking my lucky stars I didn't get to deal with the trunk lid.🤣
  20. LOL Yeah, since this forum is still here, I assume this is exempt.
  21. The notice came up when I was cruising on my phone and I just clicked I accept and moved on. Didn't even read it.
  22. Fenders are in polyester primer, and I blocked the hood as well. It already has a really nice layer of (fairly new) paint, so I am just running over it with a block to smooth it out. It's amazing how wavy it is, since it looked great before I touched it.
  23. Hypothetical question: Assuming I have good flow to the rear brakes when I bleed them, I can see a small kink in the line going along the torque tube. It doesn't APPEAR to hinder flow when I bleed...but could that be a factor in the poor feel on partial braking power? I have been told in the past that the "feel" of the brake pedal comes from the rear brakes. Dave, I am going to tackle the MC/booster again if the shoes and new brake hardware don't fix the problem. The used on I have from the local member is an original that hasn't been rebuilt yet. So, hopefully thos
  24. I do have an additional MC/booster that a local member brought over the other day. The parts car isn't here anymore.
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