Smartin

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Everything posted by Smartin

  1. I agree with Doug....but if authenticity is your gig, this is not the car for you.
  2. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-Buick-Roadmaster/223641598180?hash=item341213f8e4:g:euAAAOSwgsddZuI4 Regardless of the interior fabric choice, this appears to be a decent deal. It would make a fun driver for not too much $$ (assuming there aren't any real problems hiding).
  3. Months ago when I made the order to CARS for some stuff, I ordered trunk fabric. Low and behold, it is NLA. I'm going to just leave it for now...as I might have to let this car go sooner than expected. I am still trying to hold out for Strongsville to have it judged again, but I also need to free up some cash for this building I'm putting up. I'll chip away at what I can on this car to keep correcting issues, but don't see the whole list getting rectified. One small victory this evening...I was not in a mood to roll around in rust and grind on metal, so I decided to replace the hood insulation. Lance was kind enough to send me the dimensions and I got a full sheet to cut on my own.
  4. Yes I heated and then scraped it right off. These are seams in the sheet metal...and. Horrible spot for a seam, for sure. Very common spot for these to rust.
  5. On to the wheel wells...this repair has to be made on both sides of the metal. There are actually two layers of metal in both of these spots. This is the passenger side...the driver side is the same way. This will also take care of all the rust on the body shell. Let's not talk about the doors, though.
  6. Passenger side quarter was a real mess, along with the rocker. A lower quarter patch panel was provided with the car, but it was a hokey aftermarket stamping that didn't really even line up with the body lines or openings at the door or wheel. I did, however, use the wheel opening corner and lower rocker area to patch the quarter panel. The rear trick was to make sure that the bottom body line of the quarter remained straight with the rocker panel as it ran toward the wheel. When I cut out the bad spots in the quarter, it sprung out toward me. It was a real challenge trying to measure and cut, mark, measure again, cut, mark, etc...trying to hold the quarter in place. I ended up using a 4' straight edge to make sure it stayed true. Once it was tacked in place, I could go to town with the repair. As you can see, it looks a but sunken and lumpy where the repair was made. If could have gotten a hammer back there to work it back out with a dolly, that wouldn't be there. But there just isn't any room. Even with taking my time and cooling with compressed air, the panel warped a bit. I am currently working on the joint where the lead seam is at the back corner of the door. The repair ended up being about 8" in length after the bad metal was cut out. I have already repaired the inner rocker here, and welded the outer rocker together with a patch. I have one small 2" square hole to fill on the bottom side of the outer rocker....then I can move to the rear wheel wells. They are a real mess.
  7. I did some poking and the rest of it looks ok.
  8. Both holes at the lead joint are fixed. I moved on to the wheel well corner. The hole kept getting bigger as I cut...finding more really thin metal. Finally, I was able to get to some solid metal to weld to. I ended up cutting a piece of the wheel opening out of the parts car we have here. It helped with the compound bend around the edge of the wheel opening. Of course, as I was laying down grinding, I found another spot about 8" long where the pinch weld is at the rocker bottom. That is next.
  9. I'm doing my best to knock out a small piece of this every day. Probably a pipe dream to keep this up, but it keeps my momentum up...and helps me keep on schedule with projects moving. As I moved to the hole in the driver side rocker, I had to burn out the lead so I could weld to steel after cutting the hole out. When I melted the lead out, a second hole appeared, almost as big as the original one next to it. So for this evening, I took care of the first hole. I'll save the other one for tomorrow.
  10. The interior looks like a different car! It was pretty gross in there. What are you using to clean the vinyl - like the door panels and dash pad?
  11. Driver side front rocker corner is done...almost. I have to buy a 3/4" hole saw for the two fender mounting holes. Next I'll take care of a couple little soft spots on the inner rocker, and then the outer rocker repairs. One spot at the lead joint (you can barely see it in the photo) and the rear corner is rotted. After that, I'll move to the passenger side and complete the rocker repairs there.
  12. I believe that is forged, not cast.
  13. If it's a really minor vibration, I have noticed it on most of my big cars of this vintage. It's almost just a resonance, and not so much a vibration. Does that make sense?
  14. A month or two ago, I returned Lance's black Roadmaster to him and exchanged it for the coupe. Unfortunately, I had to stick this one in the queue while I took care of another 57 Special that needed a respray after a bad experience with another body shop. That project has to sit and cure for a while before I cut and buff it. So, I got Gray into position for some advanced rust repair. First thing I tackled was the body mount bolts and cage nuts. Four of them were broken off, and a fifth one just spun inside the cage. To fix this, the floor has to be cut open and the nuts have to be replaced. Once they are welded in, the floor must be re-repaired. I took care of all that this week. Next was the rear-most trunk floor brace where the rear body mount bolts go through. When the trunk floor was replaced, there was an attempt to put a patch in one spot, but the rust was much more widespread than originally thought. I had to lift the entire body up about 6" to access this brace and repair it. About half of the brace was replaced with one from a good parts car. Now, I'm onto the front rocker repairs. I worked on the passenger side today and got it completed. Tomorrow is the driver side. Both of them are completely trashed. Pretty much the entire nose of the rocker has to be fabricated. I wish they made repair panels for these. Most of the 57-58's I've worked on have issues like this here. There are lots of spots on the inner and outer rockers to repair...just tackling one thing at a time, since my time with this car is limited. I'm going to do as much rust repair as I can before the next monster project comes in. I have a year to basically do a frame-off restoration on a 70 GS Stage1 convertible, and get it ready for MCACN 2020 in Chicago.
  15. The 58's and 60's (at least the 4 barrel equipped models) had the ones with the bolt on top to mount to the bracket. But I believe ALL 57's were the type you are looking for. I don't have any experience with the 59 versions. Most of the originals I've come across are warped pretty bad, and it's a 50/50 shot on if I can get them to seal again. I'll check to see if I have any originals in the stash. I think I used my last one on a buddy's Roadmaster locally, though.
  16. You can also order paint directly from TCP Global (www.autocolorlibrary.com) the same website Pete suggested looking for paint color charts. I've used them a few times with good results.
  17. Are you glad we didn't just "fix the bad spots?" 😁 Black Betty is really coming together!
  18. Looks like you found the marker lights? Man those tires look like they cleaned up well.
  19. WOW! The sweepspear trim really makes the car.
  20. All true... the paint doesn’t bother me as long as the body is solid. I don’t know enough about the interior to be able to tell what’s right. A 49 Roadmaster convertible is definitely on my list, though.
  21. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-Buick-Roadmaster-Roadmaster/264398222002?hash=item3d8f5cb2b2:g:ozYAAOSwgbVdK3BQ If I only had $30k...
  22. That's what he is referring to, Jason. They exist...just have to keep an eye out on ebay.
  23. Just the fabric...I think the cardboard side pieces are in ok shape. Are there reproductions available for the boards?