Smartin

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Everything posted by Smartin

  1. Me too! The last 2 weeks were taken up by Mom's passing. I am leaving for Cancun tomorrow morning...so maybe two more weeks before another update 😁
  2. If the vacuum diaphragm fails in the oil pump, the engine vacuum will suck oil up through the wiper motor and into the intake manifold, causing smoke to come out of the exhaust. I had this happen to me on my 58. It was only coming out of the left side exhaust. I thought I blew a head gasket. Thankfully Gene Reynolds was near by and "fixed" my problem by plugging that side of the wiper motor. The smoke cleared up in about 30 minutes.
  3. Did you have the wiper motor connected to the oil/vacuum pump when the smoking started?
  4. I could see that the shoes were wearing only in one spot about an inch wide on the shoes. It was also glaringly obvious that they were mis-matched to the drums when I placed them inside. I had checked them visually with the front drums when I replaced them before, but the fronts are fine. I guess you know what happens when you ASSume. This repair will be under $100, so hopefully it makes a big improvement. The last thing I want to do is deal with the MC/booster again.
  5. I had checked the fronts, and they are still ok....the lining guy agreed today that they don't need work. Rears are a different story, though. I had neglected to check them when I did the fronts. I dropped the rears off this afternoon. He is going to machine the shoes to fit the rear drums.
  6. I pulled the left rear drum off today, and the shoe is not even close to the right arc. After some research, I wasn't interested in spending $400 plus shipping on a new set of 4 drums. I found a local place about 40 minutes away that will re-arc shoes to drums. He basically replaces the shoes with a size that is thicker and matches the circumference of the newly turned drums. It will be about 2 weeks I think before I can confirm if this fixes things.
  7. Smartin

    1957 76C

    Gets me every time...that heater delete! Great progress...thanking my lucky stars I didn't get to deal with the trunk lid.🤣
  8. LOL Yeah, since this forum is still here, I assume this is exempt.
  9. The notice came up when I was cruising on my phone and I just clicked I accept and moved on. Didn't even read it.
  10. Fenders are in polyester primer, and I blocked the hood as well. It already has a really nice layer of (fairly new) paint, so I am just running over it with a block to smooth it out. It's amazing how wavy it is, since it looked great before I touched it.
  11. Hypothetical question: Assuming I have good flow to the rear brakes when I bleed them, I can see a small kink in the line going along the torque tube. It doesn't APPEAR to hinder flow when I bleed...but could that be a factor in the poor feel on partial braking power? I have been told in the past that the "feel" of the brake pedal comes from the rear brakes. Dave, I am going to tackle the MC/booster again if the shoes and new brake hardware don't fix the problem. The used on I have from the local member is an original that hasn't been rebuilt yet. So, hopefully those internal parts aren't trashed and I can check/clean/reuse.
  12. I do have an additional MC/booster that a local member brought over the other day. The parts car isn't here anymore.
  13. Ok...lots to process there LOL I’ve done a bunch of these without any adverse issues like I’m experiencing here now. Oddly enough, I experienced the same pedal feel with the original one, the rebuilt original one, and the rebuilt one from the parts car. And I know the one on the parts car was working on it before I pulled it off of there. All I have done with either of those vacuum cylinders and plungers is just clean and lube them. I believe I also replaced the rubber vacuum line because it seemed a bit loose at the connections. And I believe I used trans fluid on the plunger and wiped some all over the inside of the cylinder. So my hesitation to believe that this stems from the master cylinder is what I explained above. Literally no change in pedal feel from 3 different iterations of master/booster combo. When I start the car with my foot on the pedal, I can feel the booster suck the pedal down...so I know it’s getting assist. Its so frustrating, because I feel like I have been through every piece of this thing...and I’ve always been able to figure it out....except now.
  14. Full manifold vacuum. Booster is working well.
  15. I started on repairing front sheet metal today. Someone had clearanced a little bit of the hood inner structure for what I'm assuming was an air cleaner...so I had to cut out a good piece from one of the trashed hoods we have here and graft it in. Same for the spring on the front of the hood. The good hood we have came from a 72...so it's gotta go. I also have worked the fenders to where I can weld the inner edges back up. I'll take care of that tomorrow.
  16. Ok...this one is still labeled asphalt, but is not as "shiny" as the other one I linked. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-feet-1-2-I-D-ASPHALT-CLOTH-WIRE-LOOM-ORIGINAL-RESTORATION-CONDUIT-VINTAGE/183013559435?hash=item2a9c754c8b:g:1W0AAOSwRTVaWEdE
  17. https://www.ebay.com/itm/OLD-SCHOOL-BRAIDED-CLOTH-ASPHALT-TAR-COATED-3-8-IDX10-WIRING-SHEATH-LOOM-COVER-/252386402295
  18. Those holes are drilled out welds 😄 The brace that I cut the welds from was incorrectly welded in from the factory, as well as the top of the fender.
  19. Our plan to use original fenders didn't work out, so I am back to using the NOS/replacement fenders that came with it. They're really solid, so at least there's no rust to contend with. So today, I tackled the front sheet metal install and alignment...mostly to make corrections to the fenders. I loosely installed the fenders and core support, keeping the support-to-frame mounts loose so I could move that around, too. Once the RH fender looked good at the door, I moved to the LH fender. Then to the hood, using the hinges that will be installed on the car. I don't know if that really makes a difference, but it can't hurt. It was a challenge aligning the hood, because the space for it to sit in between the fenders was just barely big enough for it to sit inside. So I was nearly back to square one on the fender alignment...but I managed to shimmy everything around to get it just right. I actually moved the doors out a little bit where they meet the fenders, so I could pull the fenders away from the hood. Once the hood was where it needed to be, I could see the RH fender was not right. It had an angry brow...and there is no adjustment there. I cut the spot welds out of that bracket where it mounts to the core support and pulled the outer skin of the fender down to where it sat straight with the hood. It is just held there with Vice Grips right now. I'll have to weld the top holes, then pull the fender back out a little bit on the side, because I think it is pulled in toward the middle of the car just a bit. That's where I quit for the day. I grabbed the headlight bezels and grille from the parts car to make sure nothing else was tweaked on the core support. There are a couple spots on it that need to be pounded out, but didn't appear to affect the mounting of these items. My HOPE is that I can grind the welds out from inside the fenders and just do the ones along the centers, keeping the outer welds intact. The fenders aren't as bad as I thought they were. When I stuck them against the hood before installing, they looked REALLY bad. These are pretty subtle. But....there is no way I could have done all this alignment work with the fenders painted. I'm glad I took the time to do this.
  20. Front raybestos shoes ordered...and brake hardware also ordered. Crossing fingers.
  21. Thanks for the suggestions guys. I’ll order the front raybestos organics. Will also check to make sure shoes are arc’ed with drums. I’ll see if I can find new hardware.
  22. Interesting. I have a pair of organic Raybestos shoes on the shelf. The ones I just put on the back are for sure semi-metallic. Not sure about the fronts. They don't appear to be semi-metallic. I just have never heard of anyone around town here that does that kind of work.
  23. Shoes are new, and I made sure they match the contour of the drums. They are also the riveted style. Springs and hardware are not new to me, but have been replaced. If the brakes were dragging, I would be more concerned about worn out brake hardware, but I don't see any issues with it. It really feels like a master cylinder issue...I have access to a free one, I just have to rebuild it. I think this is going to be my next step.
  24. So I am still working on trying to improve the feel of the brakes on the Roadmaster. Yes, the car is sold, but I am trying to help the new owner out with these brakes. It acts like there is no/very little initial braking power. There should be good pedal feel when using average braking pressure, but it really takes some stomp to get the car to slow down enough to make a turn. I can lock the wheels up if I really try. I am on the second mastery cylinder/booster combo with no change in feel. Both have rebuild kits in them. Dare I try to find a 3rd setup and rebuild that one? These things don't grow on trees. The previous owner said he could never get the brakes to feel good, either. One thing of note is that when the car isn't running, I can push the pedal about halfway down before it feels like a rock. Shouldn't I have that "rock" feeling right at the top of the pedal travel? This is assuming all vacuum has left the tank, and there is no power assist. These parts are new: Wheel cylinders Flex hoses All shoes These parts have been rebuilt/repaired/replaced: Drums turned Master Cyl/booster rebuilt, then replaced with two separate units from another car and rebuilt, with no change in feel Literally the only things that I have not touched are the hard brake lines and the brake pedal assembly. I can feel the booster working when I have my foot on the pedal when I start the car.