DFeeney

I am always amazed at the collective knowledge of this forum.

If you can't find one, post a picture and dimensions , there are a lot of spare springs floating around.

If this 1929 was produced before late fall look at your distributor drive housing . If it is bolted to the front of the block with two bolts, look for two oil cups on the distributor body. The lower cup oils the bevel gears that drive the distributor. This is the only way the gears receive oil and if you run them dry it will ruin them. Nice Survivor car. I suggest you join the Plymouth club. You will meet great people, receive good knowledge, find parts and save money.

One of the things I like about being a member of this forum is I discover people stranger than me. This gives me more self esteem at no cost. Kind of like visiting a "On-Line" shrink.

Once while driving my 15 passenger van, towing a 24 ft enclosed trailer through a single lane round about, I could have sworn I passed myself.

I believe the condenser also allows the primary field of the coil to sweep the secondary field at a faster rate which then allows the coil to put out 12-14K volts. If you slow down the rate of sweep , the coil has less of a output and does not make enough KV volts to spark the plug. It is my understanding the engine will not start if the condenser is removed. Am I wrong?

Are you saying the compression is 36 PSI. I think you typed in a error.

Go For It.

I would post on the Pontiac Oakland page looking for a puller or what size the thread is. I have lent my MoPar puller out several times with a $125. deposit. If you know your thread size there are several pullers on E-bay. Slow and easy as not to damage your axle.

Not to be "Bragging" but I gave a special lady a box or several different length tie-wrap packages. ( Her girlfriend said to give them back.)

Isn't in interesting how much past information has been lost. There was a day when "Every Kid" in town knew what this tool was for. Thanks for posting.

In reference to these lights does "Self Generating" mean the gas was made inside the lights and not from a remote tank. thanks, Don

I would post on the Chevy page. I would also join the Chevy club and get in contact with a advisor for your year, It will save you money and help find any missing parts and introduce you to interesting nice people.

I would be surprised if anyone has 4 wheel new cylinders for this car. You can get rebuilding kits by using the bore size of the cylinders.

New knowledge is going to be learned from this post. My head is starting to crack..

I also agree, Crosley's are a different breed of "Cat"

A few years back the Antique Studebaker Club ran a article in their magazine how to make a protractor type cut out tool to do this. I would guess this could be used with any Delco dual point system. Perhaps a forum reader could point you to a source. I converted my 1931 CD-8 dual point to a later single point distributor and it was a bolt in.

I have always thought the Powell truck conversions looked like a regular Dodge that they got the front sheet metal "Red Hot" and then drove it into a stone wall at 15 MPH.

If you have the head off in the future be sure to check for flatness. As many heat cycles as these old engines have don't be surprised if it out of spec.

Nice car. I use a test light ($10.) but a volt meter will work. If every thing is right when you turn on the ignition 6VTS goes through the coil to the distributor. If you remove the cap and rotor and the points are open you should read 6 vts on the incoming side of the points. When the points are closed you have 0 vts. You can toggle the points open and close with your finger and the light should go on and off. If not there is a good chance the points have a coating on them and not making continuity. Use a point file and reset the gap. Not Rocket Science but a good place to start. Keep us posted.

I agree with EM TEE. You did not mention if the engine was locked up. I would leave the plugs out, let the oil soak down a while and perhaps remove the starter and use a "Ladyfoot" bar with the flywheel teeth to get it moving. I would also be concerned with a valve stem being stuck in the guide holding it open. Keep us posted.

Also the roadster has a folding windshield. Roadsters have a higher value but unlike the convertible coupe they leak in rain and cold air as the side curtains are not as tight as roll up windows.

PA's were well built cars and have hydraulic brakes, pressurized oil system and centrifugal spark advance and run right along at 45 MPH. Parts are easy to find. Go for it if the price is right.

I would post on the Plymouth page for better results.

Hello Sagefinds, Thank you for your interest on my search for a hood. I would be interested in the year and pictures always help. It is for my Hudson speedster project. I am in "No Hurry" as Winter has "Set in " here. I am just north of Columbus Ohio if you know of a reasonable way to ship it. Enjoy the Holidays with family and friends. Don