DFeeney

I don't believe this will be a expensive fix. However you need to become familiar with how a point-ignition system works. Once you understand the basics you will be able to trouble shoot it with a $10. test light. I would unhook the wire going from the coil to the distributor and test it for battery voltage. If voltage is present put the wire back on. Take the wire from the coil to the center of the distributor cap off and hold it about 1/4" from the block and have someone crank the engine over. A blue spark should jump each time the points open and close. If you have this spark your system is working. If not get back on line and we can narrow down what to do next. If a person is willing to learn the basics they can become "The King of Spark"

You are now moving forward. That's the best any of us can do. Time and Patience is the word.

I recently saw one of these carbs on market place.

Best wishes to John, He has done quality work for me in the past.

When my "Driver" makes it back to the "Club Motel" at the meets I attend , It's like Winning Best of Show.

These coupes have the "Bat Wing" rear window. A lot of people find them "Strange" Make it a point to look at a picture from the rear.

Hello my Studebaker friends, I have a running car but looking for future spare parts. Can you help? Don in central Ohio. 740-816-4284

Does anyone have a Ohio title for a Model T as a piece of memorabilia for sale? thanks, Don 740-816-4284

Hello, I was wondering if the Overland has been Sold? thanks, Don

Scroll down to the Chalmers page and post there.

I believe I read once the copper brake line tubing used by several early manufactures was refrigeration grade tubing which was different from straight copper line.

The point I was trying to make was that the condenser does more than keeping the spark from jumping across the points. To prove this, have a running engine and unhook the condenser and the engine will not start.

I have always thought GM cars of 1938 were well styled and were the best looking. ( I'm not sure what happened to Oldsmobile).

My Ex-Mother -In-Law ( may she rest in Peace) could have starred the "Door" open.

I have experienced no problems with either.

As mentioned support the engine from the crank end. A friend of mine got his knee broke from a engine on a stand falling on him. A engine stand that rotates by a handcrank would be a good investment which you could use again in future years,

I have a friend who is looking for a complete 2pc windshield for a 1929 Chrysler model75 touring car. If you know of any for sale shoot me a E-mail. Think Spring, Don

I would post this on the Dodge Bros page.

It appears you are correct that your wheel cylinders have been re sleeved. I would buy a wheel cylinder repair kit for each wheel. These are new kits and can be bought by bore size. I have the # for NAPA 1 1/4 bore. I checked my return spring length of my 32 MoPar and it was 5 1/4. Good Luck

Hello JRA, If your 1929 Chryster has a 2 pc windshield could you send me a picture showing the windshield. Attached is my 1928 Q Plymouth. The 1928/29 Plymouths are almost the same body wise. However the 28 used the Maxwell engine where the 29 used the new more robust Plymouth 4 cylinder.

You have a early production 1929. As you see other 1929 Plymouths you will see the block differences I have described.

Hello JRA, Please note in 1929 Plymouth had 3 variations of their engine block. One had no water pump, fuel pump. One had fuel pump added. The 3rd had , water pump, fuel pump. The block casting was different on each engine. Look at your block and see which you have.

Try to narrow your problem down to no spark or no fuel. I would look into the spark side.

I will check my 1928-1932 MoPar springs this week end.

I am always amazed at the collective knowledge of this forum.