DFeeney

Up for sale is one nice air cleaner. It is 7" in diameter and 8" high. The carb opening is a tightening clamp 2 1/4 in inside diameter. $50 plus the ride. Don in central Oh.

This event was on my bucket list the first year I retired. I attended 20 yrs ago and have fond memories. I expect most prewar swap meets to become smaller as us buyers/owners make the "Journey" to the "Great Swap meet in the Sky".

If you ever want to insult a "Sedan Delivery" owner call his vehicle a "Panel Truck". ( Panel trucks have two rear doors)

This is not a unusual problem. I would check all your free play adjustments. Perhaps one is to tight not allowing the brake rod to return, thus holding the brakes slightly on.

I was told the attached front bumper is from a 1932 Chevy. The face is 3 3/4" . The distance between the vertical end bolts is 64 3/8. The bumper is $300. plus the ride. If I have identified the bumper incorrectly let me know. Thanks, Don in central OH.

Up for sale are the 4 bumper guards shown in the picture at $75. a pair plus the ride. They measure 10 1/4" x 3 1/2. They are straight and in good condition. Don in central OH

I believe the bumper guards are after market and universal.

Thanks for the information. I would like to see this bumper back on a car. I will post on the Chevy page.

While you have the sheet metal off the front check the fan blade for cracks. "Jus Sayin".

I might have a rebuild able core . As Kinser says a picture would help. Mo Par used variations between models in these years.

Can you help me identify the mystery front bumper? It has a 3 3/4" face. The distance between the vertical bolts at each end is 64 3/8". The over riders are 10 1/4 " x 3 1/2". It is very straight . Can anyone use it? Don in central Ohio 740-816-4284

I believe you will be able to find a replacement switch on the MoPar page.

I might have a set of wood wheels.

There is a "Lesson" to be learned from reading these post. Once you become comfortable around a situation with potential danger you become complacent around it. It is not the beginner who ends up hurt. Most of us on the forum are experienced. Let's remember to be careful with our projects and endeavors.

I would be interested in seeing the rear of the car if you could PM me. thanks, Don

Xander, Thanks for the tip. I have looked into the second parts car.

I am sure this was expensive, However it is money well spent. Who wants to loose a engine or have trouble on the road over radiator problems. One less thing to worry about.

Hello My Studebaker friends. I am looking for a 1922 Studebaker Big 6 transmission to use as a spare. What have you? Think Spring. Don in central Ohio 740-816-4284

I have found "Real World" experience to be helpful. Sometimes the MFG know so much about their product they overlook some details.

I am looking forward to see your future progress.

I would buy a owners manual off E-bay. It is full of important information and includes a wiring diagram. Remember the 1928 Q Plymouth used the Maxwell engine which is very different from the 1929/32 Plymouth 4's.

Try and Google Rapid CNC. I believe they make custom rag joints.

Nice work so far. I would secure the load down better and hold your speed down if your going very far.

They make a tool around $10. that has a cable and T-handle. You pass the cable through the hole in the rim and screw it onto the tire valve stem. It is used to pull the valve stem through the rim hole. They are easy to find online. Slow and easy is the word. I put the tube into the tire casing then the flap and install the rim last.

I have learned so much from this forum that if I live much longer I'm afraid my "Head will crack Open". Thanks to all who share the "Real Information and tips."