DFeeney

I am posting this for a friend, Who is wanting to restore a unique bike. Contact information is Brian @ 219-448-9030 Located in Indiana. He is looking for a complete 150 cc engine known to run.

My CD-8 manifold was of the same design.

I would think that you will at least need to remove the oil pan and head. You can pastic/gauge each rod one at a time and get how much wear will be in each rod bearing. If #6 is out of spec. you can remove the rod and mike the crank. Perhaps rebabbiting one rod will allow you to continue summer driving. Your Buick page forum members should help you work through this. If all the rod bearings are loose this would point to a major rebuild.

Now you know the missing plate will not add heat to the engine, This is worth the trouble. You can add the correct cables and arm to make it look stock.

There are a lot of pictures online of Imperial engines . You could probably see what you are looking for. Manifolds of this age will be brittle. You might not start on the repair unless you are having a problem. I would think you could take the exhaust manifold apart and inspect the baffle plate. There is a good chance it will be froze in place. Although not a Imperial, I recently had a similar manifold apart made a non movable plate to block of the exhaust heat as the car was only going to be used in warm weather. Slow and Easy is "The Word"

I am always amazed to see 5 gal buckets full of these wheel parts at Hershey. I have always found the parts I was looking for. Don't give up, they are out there.

30 years ago I made my own steering wheel puller. It was not "Rocket Science" and has worked well since and many friends have used it. ( see attached photo's). Install the 2 halves under the steering wheel and use a 2 arm puller. I cut the hole with a hole saw. The straight pull is what allows the wheel to come loose. "Life is Good".

As expected I have gained information from this thread.

I would not think double flares would pose a problem. I am looking forward to the different forth coming thoughts.

Be Proud you are helping your Dad.

I would suspect the wood "Fisher Body" has the usual rot problems. This will limit your buyers.

Questions like this is why you should buy a parts manual. They can be found on E-bay and well worth the money`.

Ignition timing is not "Rocket Science" but if you are new to it you have to work your way through the procedure. Many "Good Men" on this forum will point directions .

Garbage is a harsh term. Over the years I have sent many parts I had no use for to someone who was happy to receive them. This is part of the fun of the "Hobby".

I would avoid any kind of putty. In the long run it will come back and bite you and perhaps burn the shop down.

Up for sale is one nice air cleaner. It is 7" in diameter and 8" high. The carb opening is a tightening clamp 2 1/4 in inside diameter. $50 plus the ride. Don in central Oh.

This event was on my bucket list the first year I retired. I attended 20 yrs ago and have fond memories. I expect most prewar swap meets to become smaller as us buyers/owners make the "Journey" to the "Great Swap meet in the Sky".

If you ever want to insult a "Sedan Delivery" owner call his vehicle a "Panel Truck". ( Panel trucks have two rear doors)

This is not a unusual problem. I would check all your free play adjustments. Perhaps one is to tight not allowing the brake rod to return, thus holding the brakes slightly on.

I was told the attached front bumper is from a 1932 Chevy. The face is 3 3/4" . The distance between the vertical end bolts is 64 3/8. The bumper is $300. plus the ride. If I have identified the bumper incorrectly let me know. Thanks, Don in central OH.

Up for sale are the 4 bumper guards shown in the picture at $75. a pair plus the ride. They measure 10 1/4" x 3 1/2. They are straight and in good condition. Don in central OH

I believe the bumper guards are after market and universal.

Thanks for the information. I would like to see this bumper back on a car. I will post on the Chevy page.

While you have the sheet metal off the front check the fan blade for cracks. "Jus Sayin".

I might have a rebuild able core . As Kinser says a picture would help. Mo Par used variations between models in these years.