DFeeney

For 95K perhaps the house comes with it.

This type repair is possible and with a little work a non electrical person can learn how to trouble shoot a circuit and see where the power stops. I would buy a GOOD 6/12 volt test light. ( 10-12$) They are about the size of a short screwdriver and have a light and wire with a alligator clip on the end. The more you use it the better you become. Have a electrical person help you get started .

The early bolts/clamps and reproduction parts are available as Ed posted. You have to work extra to chase them down. Good Luck.

I believe the 1929 U should have the narrow radiator shell like a 1928 Q. The car shown has the wider 30U grille shell.

I agree with Akstraw, Outside of the family connection you can buy a finished Oakland cheaper that restoring yours. If you got a bank loan (20K) the payments would be less than you will feed into the project. You could immediately enjoy the car and hopefully the car will hold its purchase value . The note will be paid off before you would have finished the restoration.

I would post on the Packard page.

I would be more worried about the "New gas" going bad than rust damage to the tank. If it's under restoration in your shop I would drain it and leave it dry.

Gary, You are a man of "Vision"

You are a "Lucky Man" to have made such a connection.

How about a Pink Welding helmet with the new auto dark feature ? "Jus Sayin"

Up for sale is one radio head with 3 good knobs plus a spare large and small knob. All knobs match. The 2 loose knobs are shown from their back side to show the metal hub. All are held on by a small set screw. The face on the dial is excellent. The 3 cables are not shown but included. The first $100. buys all. plus shipping. thanks, Don in central OH

I would study the Dodge Woody pictures in the Woody section of the same era to get pointed in the right direction. Measure twice, cut once.

Nice Build

The idea's posted on the forum never cease to amaze me.

I have noticed on my Speedsters, I get engine compartment residue on the firewall. I would think a wood firewall would be hard to keep clean.

I was at the Fall NHRA Nationals in 1963 when Pete won top Gas eliminator. I knew he used a small block but always thought it was a Chevy engine I read the article Ed posted and it said it was a small block Ford. Does anyone know if this is correct?

Once you have the wood firewall finished and everything mounted put a sheet metal face on the engine side. Speedster projects are fun and you don't end up underwater if you do most of the work yourself.

I would think if you posted on the Oldsmobile page of this forum you would find several good used one's at a reasonable price.

Hello Paul, Thank you for your insight. When I get pointed in the right direction I find I'm able to end up with a better finished project.

I am starting to collect parts for a project and looking for the above parts? What Have You?, thanks Don in central Ohio.

I am always amazed by the "Collected Knowledge" of the members of this forum.

Also remember, If the battery polarity is reversed the dome light will bring "Darkness" into the car.

The high tower that the shift lever comes out of and the clutch release bearing fork look like my 1922 Studebaker big 6. The big 6 did not use a cone clutch in 22, however perhaps the special 6 or the light 6 did. I'd put my money on Studebaker. You might post the pictures on the Studebaker page and let us know what turns up.

I believe when coils are designed, they are polarity concuss for maximum output. A engine by itself will run with the battery input reversed but will only achieve about 90% of the maximum coil output. I am looking forward to reading the post from the "Theory Experts". I have learned many things from this forum.

Take your best guess. Install it and tighten the bolts slowly, If you have it backwards it won't bolt down flat. Slow and easy is the word.