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  2. Chris your package arrived and they are beautiful. Should create a lot of interest at the auction. Thanks for sending.
  3. My 1908 model BC I owned in the 1970s had a Briscoe radiator also. Sold it to England. Painted red. George Albright, Ocala,Florida
  4. You can access a lot of the early Snap-on catalogues here, they go from 1923 upwards. It may mean going through a few before you find that tool.
  5. May I ask the price and location? Thanks George Albright,Florida.
  6. What is the wheelbase on this car? Thanks
  7. If you guys are each near a Greyhound bus terminal -- they do a reasonable shipping --- terminal - to - terminal ..... They have all that cargo space in the under the bus compartments.... Perfect for that type of item ... Worth considering....
  8. Alright folks....I'm sure a bunch of you are at the annual meeting, but wanted to ask a question which I think I know the answer to. I was at a local shop looking to get my exhaust done on my 64 and the owner of the shop has a couple first gens in his yard and one of them he believes to be a branded "Limited" early additional 63'. It has the following additions to the body: 1. "Limited" badge on the truck lid where the 64' "Riviera" badge is located (Looks like the same script as the "Riviera"). I know in 63' BUICK was spelled across the truck lid. 2. Top of front fenders are mounted turn signals indicators (like the attached picture). Fairly confident this was not an option and someone added (was actually pretty well done and did look stock) 3. Rear quarter panels were marked with a round Buick Tri-Shield emblem at the rear most point of rear fenders. (Looked very odd). Stupid me....I didn't take pictures of any of those things, but did take a picture of the body plate. The car was an early production (11C), very highly optioned with A/C and was originally Spruce Green with Sandalwood Cloth and Vinyl interior. The car is in pretty bad shape and would take ALOT of work to bring it back to life. I wanted to provide this guy some information so he didn't go down a path of thinking he had a hidden gem sitting in his yard. Looking for confirmation that there wasn't a "Limited" early production 63' Riviera. Fire away. Thanks, Robert
  9. LIcense plate says MICH25 or 26 or 28 or similar.
  10. A couple more things: there should be a shake proof washer at each end of the inner sleeve, between it and the chassis hangers and the shackle sides. So you need two shake proof washers per bush. Also, the bolts should only be threaded at the nut end once outside the inner sleeve, i.e. no threads inside the sleeve.
  11. In land surveying, the independent check is very important. Calculate the remainder of the circle and see if it works. Do the geometry another way with a different origin or something. Transposition of figures is a pain and can become habitual.
  12. For more from the same source, go to:
  13. Trying to condense this as much as possible. I'm sure I'm forgetting something. My 84 K20 has a 502 BBC, it ran strong then started dying at stops. It got so much worse it doesn't even run now. I changed all tune up componets, even put a brand new distributor on, same thing. I assumed it was the fuel injection so I took it off and put on a Demon 850 carb. STILL, same thing. It starts great, fires right up with the turn of the key, if I play with gas pedal I can keep it running for a sec but white smoke blowing out tail pipe. ALL fluids are perfect, no antifreeze in the oil. New fuel pump and regulator and definately getting fuel but running terrible. I've checked everything. It is fouling plugs pretty quick. I've changed them and also cleaned them twice. Anyone have educated guess? Pls explain reasoning too if u would. Just a background on how it started: Went from dying at stops to dying when slowing down then trouble restarting. As long as I could feather it through with one foot on the brake, I got it home. Always starts first try just hard to keep running.When I got it up to 30+mph, it would run great! then again slowing or stopping, wants to die. It Now extremely doggish. Assuming the smoke is from sitting, been working 12s so little time to mess with it. Thanks for any suggestions!
  14. In Florida, unless that wood ramp is Cedar, it would get eaten.
  15. Today
  16. I can not say I have seen any wires routed by the manifold like that. GM ran wires between the valve cover and intake manifold to items mounted in the front of the engine. . My guess is head replacement found the wire in its current position and left there.
  17. Also TVs made before 1948 had channel 1. That must be a transistor radio from the 50's - no CD markings. +1 on Predicas being B&W, think the GE Portacolor (1962) was the first portable color. Q-bert came later ( 1984 ?) May have one for the Atari 2600. Zenith Space Command remote controls had four buttons that would produce a specific audio tone. (click .sig for radio hobby). Wouldn't mind having a Zenith "Stratosphere" radio with 25 tubes.
  18. Just picked up my 55 Special from tranny rebuild. Drove the long way home, about 175mi. I have buffed the entire car since pics were taken.
  19. With the cyl at TDC, for the particular cylinder where the plug is "firing", both valves should be closed. Which means the lifters are on the part of the lobe where there is no lift, at that time. There is another shade tree method of deciding which valves can be set/adjusted. As you turn the engine over, when the intake valve opens, adjust the exhaust valve for that cyl. When the exhaust valve opens, set the intake. This should ensure that the valve which is closed is on the heel of the lobe. I would not suspect that incorrectly set valves would prevent the engine from starting. If it did start and they were not set correctly, then it would not run right, but still barely run. I'm presuming that the cam gears are indexed correctly? That the flywheel has a locating dowel and specific bolt pattern that allow it to be installed only ONE way, in ONE position? Presuming the distributor is timed reasonably correct? That the ignition points are clean and gapped correctly? That the rest of the ignition/;charging system is working as it should? Perhaps First Born can chime in? Just some thoughts, NTX5467
  20. The clock appears same as Chev cars too….$140. + s&h
  21. At least in Florida an honest politician stays bought. Kidding aside, Florida retirees are such a large group (and have time to lobby) that they influence the politicians and is really "senior friendly", particularly if you stay west of I-4 and west of the 429 bypass is even better. I go to a show nearly every Saturdays and usually take a different car, Weekends the traffic is "less horrible" but I stay mainly west of I-4 & have two super Walmarts, two Sams Clubs, and restaurant row within 5 miles. Finally there are a surprising number of homes on a bit of acreage with outbuildings (30x40 is common) within 10 miles of a Florida's Turnpike exit. Back when I drove to work it was usually 74-75F at 7am 23 miles across town took 40 minutes ( hour later it took twice that long) and right now at 9pm it is a comfortable 80F with 62% humidity (afternoon rain cooled things off). Few mention that ACs are more efficient in high (dense) humidity and that is why the daily temperature swing is only about 20F Thing I have seen over and over though is people move here, usually from up north, last about 2 years, then half go back home. Two years later they decide it wasn't so bad and move back for good. Here you go: $354,792 3 bd2 ba1,689 sqft 5645 S Fork Ranch Dr, Clermont, FL 34714 Might mention 40 acres with barn and outbuildings.
  22. Installed a thermal lock-up clutch on my Roadmaster today. I will test it before the Saturday Club Show. Temps this week will be in the lower 90s.
  23. Posted today on a facebook page. Date probably circa 1921-23 by the drum lights. The plate is not easy to read. The radiator badge looks to me like a knight's helmet.
  24. Really appreciate the offer but I have obligations with diabetic rescue dogs that require my attention on a 12 hour schedule. See you list you live on the eastern end of Long Island. I grew up in Blue Point.
  25. Sunday afternoon, mags and I met at her work so she could weld up the rear mounts as well as part of the front one. I spent the rest of the day cutting angles and tanking the front mount together. I have the rears in, just not bolted to the frame. The last two nights I was able to get the front all tacked up. Mags is going to weld it up tomorrow. Then it will get put back in so I can check the front to back location before I bolt it in. I'm getting closer to hearing it come to life
  26. Ben i have been rebuilding a 1952 Buick straight 8 engine 263 Ci has solid lifters and i am not sure if i an adjusting the valves correctly. the motor is sitting is a motor stand not in a let you know what i did is this. i turned the engine until #1 cylinder was at tdc and the mark on the flywheel was in the timing window. then i adjusted the valves too .015,both int.& ext at this setting. then i moved to cyl #6 and repeated too adjust the valves there. i used a light hooked to the coil too tell me when the plug fired. i went all the way through the firing order like this but the engine still will not fire. i have too be doing something wrong. should i be setting the valves lash at the heel of the lobe? what would be the procedure too do it that way? can i start at cyl#1 at tdc and adjust say valves 5,8,1,7 etc just using this as a example.what do you think? Tex holliday
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