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Chavis garage


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1 hour ago, Kosage Chavis said:

Today, we broke ground.  Here's a look after the first official day of work.20200810_124254.thumb.jpg.6a6018f26113b66ae8fbd697d0b44e16.jpg20200810_125949.thumb.jpg.3a874e7f0627b42c96eda57faf5fb606.jpg20200810_125959.thumb.jpg.84c157efa5bcf84609cd3e7421370435.jpg20200810_130027.thumb.jpg.d702e61585f15a6e819dbc6da0f4a7fa.jpg20200810_170552.thumb.jpg.ba493968ee70cc66aea4728fdc574aad.jpgTomorrow, we might pour concrete or Wednesday at the latest as long as the weather holds up.

Looks easy compared to my coral rock. Good job!

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1 hour ago, old-tank said:

Reinforcing steel?

How you been Mr Willie?  The slab will be a monolithic slab with re-bar reinforcing the entire perimeter.  There will also be some more re-bar that reinforces a thickened strip of concrete that will straddle the entire width of the garage.  This strip will be the foundation for a future 2 post lift.

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12 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

Looks great!  What's the footprint on that? How tall are you going?

Thank you Matt.  It's 20' x 28'.  The ceiling height will be 9' with attic.

 

12 hours ago, MrEarl said:

Looks good! How thick is the actual slab. Is the area where the lift is planned thicker than the rest of the slab? What is planned for the smaller slab area? Or is the approach slab for the doors? 

Thank you Mr Lamar.  The slab will be 4" with an 18" footer around the perimeter.  The area where the car lift will go will be thickened to 6" with extra reinforcement.  The 4' x 4' slab is for the entry door and the other slab is the apron/ramp for the bigger garage door.

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On 8/13/2020 at 10:05 PM, Kosage Chavis said:

Thank you Matt.  It's 20' x 28'.  The ceiling height will be 9' with attic.

 

If you can make the height 11 or 12 ft, I would do it.  My building has a 10ft ceiling.  When you add lights, etc, it is only a 9 ft usable height.  Too low to have a hoist and be able to stand under comfortably.  Just IMO.

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4 hours ago, Larry Schramm said:

 

If you can make the height 11 or 12 ft, I would do it.  My building has a 10ft ceiling.  When you add lights, etc, it is only a 9 ft usable height.  Too low to have a hoist and be able to stand under comfortably.  Just IMO.

9 feet is the highest I can go while having a good amount of attic space.  I can get a 2 post lift into the garage.  There's a set call MaxJax portable car lift.  It only lifts a car at a max of 49" into the air.  To remedy the moving under the car with ease, there is a reclining creeper on the market.  This reclining creeper can lay flat when needed and can sit you in a more upright position while supporting your bottom.  I can roll around in this and work reasonably comfortably.  At least, that is the theory.  There's more than one way to skin a cat, and I have to make the most of what I have.  

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)
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47 minutes ago, dship said:

Kind of curious, I don't see a direct path to the street from the new garage...how will you get your Buick out to the street?

There is a direct path from the road to this garage.  There is a slight interference with a tree, but I can steer around it with no issue.  This tree will be removed soon anyway.  

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On 8/28/2020 at 6:09 PM, Kosage Chavis said:

Roofing done...just in time for potential rain this weekend with whatever is left from Hurricane Laura.20200828_175839.thumb.jpg.d0c3553e2d05e1dd4fb0a8cb398d3531.jpg

 That is looking awesome Ko. What's your plans for the ceiling and walls. There are some great ideas for such on the Garage Journal Forum in case you haven't visited it yet. Surprised there is no eave on the gable end, maybe consider adding what I call an eyebrow (24" lean-to covered with shingles) over the garage door to help protect the door and also rainwater from hitting the door and trying to enter under the bottom door seal. Can't wait to see some Buick signs and the 55 added.

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2 minutes ago, old-tank said:

For sure use fire proof material, not just fire resistant.  Some of the stick built stuff with the 'artsy' interiors will soon be 'crispy critters'...along with the cars.

 

Good point. At least possibly 4 ft of corrugated metal as a wainscot. They also make a metal pegboard I'll be using above the counters in the area of the grinders.

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3 hours ago, MrEarl said:

 That is looking awesome Ko. What's your plans for the ceiling and walls. There are some great ideas for such on the Garage Journal Forum in case you haven't visited it yet. Surprised there is no eave on the gable end, maybe consider adding what I call an eyebrow (24" lean-to covered with shingles) over the garage door to help protect the door and also rainwater from hitting the door and trying to enter under the bottom door seal. Can't wait to see some Buick signs and the 55 added.

Thank you Mr Lamar!  I do plan on insulating, drywalling the walls and ceiling at some point (just not right now).  I will take you up on your suggestion to look up the garage journal forum.  I would have liked to have an eave on the front gable side, but that would mean more money.  However, the company did provide a recess in the concrete slab along the entire length if the front opening where the garage door rests at.  This will keep the rain water from seeping into the floor area.  I will post a photo to show what I am talking about.  I do have a couple ideas for Buick signs and ornaments.

 

3 hours ago, MrEarl said:

Also what is the PVC pipe on the stand? And is there room on the right hand side for a lean to for your parts car? :D

The company put this up as a storage area for the blueprints.  Both cars will be stored into the garage when complete.  The first order of business will be to break down the whole parts car so that I can get it out (what I won't need).

 

2 hours ago, old-tank said:

For sure use fire proof material, not just fire resistant.  Some of the stick built stuff with the 'artsy' interiors will soon be 'crispy critters'...along with the cars.

I will definitely take heed to this suggestion, Mr Willie.  Thank you.

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