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Chavis garage


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14 hours ago, EmTee said:

Looks great!  The finished walls really brighten the space. Are you planning to tape the joints and fill the screwheads?

 

11 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

Great work!

 

7 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

Looks like a happy place to work on the 55.  Congratulations on a wonderful build!

 

Thank you Guys!  I do plan on taping and mudding the joints, but not anytime soon.  I need a break.  Plus, I already committed to my Wife to do a "refresh" for the kitchen.  I do plan on getting back to working on the Buick now that the garage is more of where it needs to be.

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10 hours ago, Kosage Chavis said:

I do plan on getting back to working on the Buick now that the garage is more of where it needs to be.

Sounds like there's epoxy floor coating in your future!  ;)

 

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I have no personal experience with the exact product @EmTee linked, but I have worked in several shops with professionally done epoxy floors. Highly recommended. Also, do it before the floor gets dirty. This type of floor is bulletproof if done as part of new construction. In shops where it was done later, they wash the concrete with acid or something, and the coating is better than bare concrete in any event, but adhesion was never perfect on used floors that had once been oily. Light gray color (reflects light under the car) and a traction additive (sand?) is the best kind of shop floor.

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A friend of mine used the Rustoleum product on the concrete floor of the pole barn he built this year.  The barn is something like 30' x 50', so bigger than a typical garage.  He applied it after the concrete cured and had been cut for control joints.  That allowed him to apply the epoxy one section at a time to ensure it could be spread and 'flocked' before the epoxy set up.  It looks good and should be very easy to clean.  I wish I had done my floor, but at this point I'd have nowhere to put my stuff while coating the floor.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I AM DONE!  At least for this phase.  I hid the elevator (to an extent) and put some feet on it.20231223_171819.jpg.47f8e64d205d70bc0798d44944474e20.jpgI framed out the attic ceiling doors and closed them off.20231223_171826.jpg.d16b2a5e65e576c01075861f7219f974.jpgAnd I added a couple of shallow shelves to get some use of the "dead" space over my work bench areas.20231223_171838.jpg.35b9935e0380f0c71618e336690c46da.jpgA few shots of the finished garage.20231223_171851.jpg.95cc7951c2fd63859f9291dd8458b079.jpg20231223_171905.jpg.96582be31da851dde3b2f0ad163f22f6.jpg20231223_171918.jpg.21b6850147bb803b3ce47171a1899fe5.jpgI appreciate all of the suggestions, advice and encouragement from you all.  I am very happy with how everything turned out.  I am going to take a small break and then it's back to the Buick...finally!

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On 12/8/2023 at 7:55 AM, Bloo said:

I have no personal experience with the exact product @EmTee linked, but I have worked in several shops with professionally done epoxy floors. Highly recommended. Also, do it before the floor gets dirty. This type of floor is bulletproof if done as part of new construction. In shops where it was done later, they wash the concrete with acid or something, and the coating is better than bare concrete in any event, but adhesion was never perfect on used floors that had once been oily. Light gray color (reflects light under the car) and a traction additive (sand?) is the best kind of shop floor.

 Even on a new floor and more so if dirty, see if you can get a diamond grinder and rough it up.  That will promote adhesion, especially on a floor that has had dirt or oil.  I’m very happy with mine.  All will get some degree of tire pickup especially on an unclean floor.

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