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1955 Buick low oil pressure?


old-tank

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2 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:


 

Can I ask the reason why you run it for a couple of minutes without coolant? Not heard this one before.

 

Thanks Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

I've always done it that way since my mentor long ago said to do it.  The idea is that the cylinder head will get hot and expand and push against the gasket and there's no water in the way to compromise a seal.  Never a failure.

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7 hours ago, old-tank said:

I've always done it that way since my mentor long ago said to do it.  The idea is that the cylinder head will get hot and expand and push against the gasket and there's no water in the way to compromise a seal.  Never a failure.

Do you leave the fan belt off during this run? And are there guidelines for "a few minutes"?  

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What kind/brand of head gasket did you use?  Do you recheck torque after that initial start (after cool-down) before buttoning everything up for the last time?

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4 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

Do you leave the fan belt off during this run? And are there guidelines for "a few minutes"?  

Fan belt off...don't want to run the water pump dry.  Usually 2 minutes will get the cylinder head up to 150*.  Another reason for doing this is that if there is a problem and reason to tear into it again, there is no water or coolant to deal with.

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2 hours ago, EmTee said:

What kind/brand of head gasket did you use?  Do you recheck torque after that initial start (after cool-down) before buttoning everything up for the last time?

FEL-PRO FS7613SH2 High compression 0.015 embossed steel.  These gaskets have a coating the aids sealing, but I spray with K&W 401612 Copper Coat Aerosol.  Never have needed to check torque.

 

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The last heavy chunk to install is the air conditioning compressor.  I have done this many times using the gorilla technique.  With an aching back I had to come up with a different technique.IMG_20240305_105500419_HDR.jpg.d780d88f5d691ff5755077f42fb00d23.jpg

Using the engine hoist was easier but took longer.  It is never easy to line it up on three studs. On top of that the back brace attaches to the intake manifold and to an exhaust manifold bolt and there is interference at that manifold this time because I used a different manifold.  Grind the brace to make it fit so it's perfect.

Well phooey, engine running bad after I started it because I knocked the vacuum line off.  On top of that the fuel pump is leaking... Double shucky darn.  I've been carrying a piece of fuel line to bypass the mechanical pump and just use the electric pump so that's what I'm going to do until I get another mechanical pump. Also with air conditioning compressor installed it is much harder to change the mechanical pump.  Someday I'm going to get to drive this car again.

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Glad great news that’s you’re just about back on the road with a hood on the car, those annoying “little things” sure seem to crop after a big job but you got the critical part 100% as expected.  Wish I would have used your approach doing the steering gear!  
 

and…lookit that extra room on those shelves and the nooks and cranny’s on the floor for more parts….and is that one of those  “custom bend on site for a perfect fit” tailpipes up in the rafters 😁

 

Great write up and tips as always!

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1 hour ago, LedRush said:

In order to bypass the mech pump, do you loop the inlet and outlet with hose? (after rerouting the fuel line)  

No, just used compressed air to blow out residual fuel.  Fuel came out of the outlet and the discharge hole below the diaphragm.   Still using the vacuum assist.

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Triggered a memory. I went to Ontario, Canada for a cruise night many years ago. When I met the friend who invited me showed me into his living room. Books were piled everywhere, on tables, on the furniture, on shelves. He picked up a pile from the couch and offered me a place to sit. Seeing that I noticed he spiritedly told me "Sondra says I can have a mistress as soon as I get the house cleaned!"

 

That incident has never seemed to distance itself from me.

image.jpeg.23e8a47e423f01b4e5ff7c34ffb305cb.jpeg

Edited by 60FlatTop (see edit history)
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Don’t let the kids hear you say that. They’ll never believe that keeping an old car running, and not buying a new one is actually saving the planet.

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On 3/19/2024 at 11:07 AM, avgwarhawk said:

I love happy endings. 

There is never an end to these projects.

 

IMG_20240322_101728105.jpg.3fe2cc40ada163ded5d0dd8544b8c13a.jpg

 

Anyhow you will notice that the front of the air conditioning compressor is missing some key parts.  "Somebody" broke a wire off that energizes the clutch on the compressor.  Easy enough to change out the coil but I figured I better check to see if the rest of the compressor is sealed.  Not even close; the front seat was leaking again.  It was working when I took it off the car.  I  even put a service valve on the compressor pulled a vacuum and added some liquid refrigerant and there was still some pressure in it when I tried to install it again.  Just a little more disassembly and the seal was replaced with good results.  It was in the '80s here today and it cooled so good that the wife was complaining about being too cold.

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The people at the ac parts place in Florida (can't recall the name at the moment) told me that the front seal on the A6 compressors were meant to have a small leak to provide bearing lubrication. I imagine A5's would have the same engineering. In the '69 I found the spin off trails of oil after not using the system for a few years, but when I tapped on the frozen expansion valve two years ago the system was back in service.  This compressor was a new one purchased around 2011 or there abouts. 

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On 3/1/2024 at 10:51 PM, old-tank said:

I've always done it that way since my mentor long ago said to do it.  The idea is that the cylinder head will get hot and expand and push against the gasket and there's no water in the way to compromise a seal.  Never a failure.

How did I ever miss this!.

 

Reminds me of the woman who made roast beef when her mother was visiting. Her mother sat at the kitchen counter and watched her daughter cut a small slice off each end of the roast. The mother asked "Why did you cut the ends off?" The daughter replied "That's the way you always did it when I watched you as I was growing up. I thought it was how it was done."  Her mother replied "I didn't have a nice big pan like you."

 

The closest I ever came to a mentor was my grandfather, my Dad's stepfather. Dad told me "You can learn a lot from Jerry, just watch him, don't copy him."

 

Then there was the instrumentation mechanic who set up all the precision balance points and fulcrums in a control cabinet, close the door, and give the cabinet a sharp rap with the palm of his hand when finished.

 

I watch and internalize that stuff. Like the old man thing where he gives your fender two gentle open hand palm taps just before you drive away. Always two with the same pace.

 

I will chuckle next time I put a head on. But it's really going to bother me if it leaks.

Edited by 60FlatTop (see edit history)
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The A6 compressors were famous for their oil trails on the underside of hoods (and hood pads).  I always found that curious as none of our other-brand of cars did that.  Seems like a newer version of that seal does not leave the trail?

 

In 1971 or so, Buick had a metal shield that went over the pulley/belt to catch the oil being slung out before it got to the hood.  Something like that could be fabbed, if desired.  Bolts to the existing holes on the front flange.  Might take a bit more with an A5, though.

 

NTX5467

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23 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

How did I ever miss this!.

 

Reminds me of the woman who made roast beef when her mother was visiting. Her mother sat at the kitchen counter and watched her daughter cut a small slice off each end of the roast. The mother asked "Why did you cut the ends off?" The daughter replied "That's the way you always did it when I watched you as I was growing up. I thought it was how it was done."  Her mother replied "I didn't have a nice big pan like you."

 

The closest I ever came to a mentor was my grandfather, my Dad's stepfather. Dad told me "You can learn a lot from Jerry, just watch him, don't copy him."

 

Then there was the instrumentation mechanic who set up all the precision balance points and fulcrums in a control cabinet, close the door, and give the cabinet a sharp rap with the palm of his hand when finished.

 

I watch and internalize that stuff. Like the old man thing where he gives your fender two gentle open hand palm taps just before you drive away. Always two with the same pace.

 

I will chuckle next time I put a head on. But it's really going to bother me if it leaks.

               Whatever works for you. The first time I saw my dad changing the rear snow tires on the 56 Buick he told me to pull up the lug nuts until they squeak, and then you know they are tight. (Never had a wheel fall off) Then I go to Denver Automotive and Diesel collage and everything had to be lightly lubricated and torque to the proper specs. After collage I started working at a Sears Automotive center. We changed tires using impact gun. No lubrication. (Never had a wheel fall off) I then started working at a farm equipment dealer. All engine repairs we lightly lubricated and used torque wrench. We used impact guns on everything else. Then one day one of the mechanics used anti seize on the lug nuts on a big front wheel assist tractor. (Impact gun) I received a call later that day that the left front wheel passed him on the road home. All the stud threads were stretched out and damaged. Now for the last fifteen years at Bobcat we have been using engine oil on the studs and an impact gun. (Never had a wheel fall off) Then we had a student working there part time and we had a wheel come loose and damage a wheel. Now we have to use “90 weight oil” on the threads and torque them to proper specs. Just yesterday I ran into a guy that retired from the local John Deere dealer and we started chatting about the good old days and he said they used anti seize on everything! Whatever works for you……….

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Did the anti-seize take the squeak out?

 

Seems like all of the thread torque specs I've seen have mentioned "lightly-lubed threads", with motor oil?  Ever feel the heat in the wheel stud where the nut came off slowly with an impact?  Or the heat in a lug nut that is too hot to hold?

 

NTX5467

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I have used anti-seize and a torque wrench, but most times I use a few drops of motor oil and a torque wrench.  So far, no wayward wheels.  ;)

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15 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

Ever feel the heat in the wheel stud where the nut came off slowly with an impact?  Or the heat in a lug nut that is too hot to hold?

After the 600 LB-FT of impact torque stretches the wheel stud the thread alignment just ain't the same.

 

I have a inexpensive click torque wrench with a Chevy truck lug socket and proper setting just for my trucks.

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54 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:

After the 600 LB-FT of impact torque stretches the wheel stud the thread alignment just ain't the same.

Which THEN means the stud and lug nut are now "prevailing torque", all of a sudden WITHOUT paying extra for such.

 

Most of the service station guys I knew, back then, knew full well the FOLLY of having an air ratchet set to that level.  Choosing, instead, to dial things back to prevent damage from an inexperienced user that might end up using them.  Better to wait for the ratcheting action to start to move things than to force it with higher torques.  Even so, sometimes the lug nuts were too hot to comfortably hold.

 

With all due respect,

NTX5467

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53 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

In 70 years of driving, I have never torqued a wheel lug!   Wow, look at ALL those times I was in danger.😉

 

  Ben

My wheel torque wrench is a recent addition. A nice chrome plated well balanced four way has always been at hand for 60 years. I saw so many references to proper torque on wheels I became concerned. Buying the Z71 Avalanche with 17" alloy wheels pushed me over. 60 years is a long time to think things would be the same. And with age and experience I tend to embrace the leading edge to stay current in technology rather than reply on the old tried and true that may not be true anymore.

 

As it turned out my four way guess-a-tightnening was so close to the torque wrench there was little difference. The torque wrench has a thicker, comfortable handle, clicks, and ratchets as well. Racheting  means the old guy has to get as low either. Convenient one arm job. I'm for it.

Edited by 60FlatTop (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

In 70 years of driving, I have never torqued a wheel lug!   Wow, look at ALL those times I was in danger.😉

 

  Ben

Livin on the edge Ben?

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On 3/24/2024 at 7:44 AM, Mudbone said:

               Whatever works for you. The first time I saw my dad changing the rear snow tires on the 56 Buick he told me to pull up the lug nuts until they squeak, and then you know they are tight. (Never had a wheel fall off) Then I go to Denver Automotive and Diesel collage and everything had to be lightly lubricated and torque to the proper specs. After collage I started working at a Sears Automotive center. We changed tires using impact gun. No lubrication. (Never had a wheel fall off) I then started working at a farm equipment dealer. All engine repairs we lightly lubricated and used torque wrench. We used impact guns on everything else. Then one day one of the mechanics used anti seize on the lug nuts on a big front wheel assist tractor. (Impact gun) I received a call later that day that the left front wheel passed him on the road home. All the stud threads were stretched out and damaged. Now for the last fifteen years at Bobcat we have been using engine oil on the studs and an impact gun. (Never had a wheel fall off) Then we had a student working there part time and we had a wheel come loose and damage a wheel. Now we have to use “90 weight oil” on the threads and torque them to proper specs. Just yesterday I ran into a guy that retired from the local John Deere dealer and we started chatting about the good old days and he said they used anti seize on everything! Whatever works for you……….

I worked at a Firestone tire store way back, and the owners decided we were all going to use anti-seize on all wheel studs, we also repaired semi-truck/trailer, road grader tires, 2 days after implementing the NEW anti-seize policy we had out first semi-trailer tire flew off and hit another car, Wuuu that was bad.

 

NO MORE USING anti-seize on wheel studs anymore.

 

Bob

 

 

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Whenever I have work done on my car that requires removing wheels I loosen and then torque all of the lug nuts when I get home. On a couple of occasions over the years I've struggled with removing lug nuts at roadside after King Kong or one of his relatives put the wheels on.

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7 hours ago, Machine Gun said:

Whenever I have work done on my car that requires removing wheels I loosen and then torque all of the lug nuts when I get home. On a couple of occasions over the years I've struggled with removing lug nuts at roadside after King Kong or one of his relatives put the wheels on.

Do your own oil changes, too?

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