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Everything posted by 195354

  1. The radiator strap has rusted where soldered to the upper tank. I had this repaired about a year ago; I am surprised to see this. Should I clean it up, use a rust encapsulator, and paint over this area? I now need to locate or source all the correct bolts and washers needed. I am trying to locate all the needed parts when I take a break doing rust repair. The paint I used on the inner fenders is not very tough. I can scratch it very easy. After I have the body ready and installed I might paint these with a different product. Part of the learning curve I guess. Steve
  2. This project is my therapy after working. I am trying to keep moving steadily forward it is has more twist and turns then I expected. Learning paint is a new experience . Thanks for all the positive comments Stee
  3. Quick question on the hoses for 1953. Did the OEM just use black heater hose, did it have a logo? If it has the logo what vendor sells this hose. Thanks in advance for the help. Steve
  4. I haven’t posted anything for a while thought I would update my slow progress. Rolling chassis is complete other than bleed brakes, and inner fenders, radiator, and hoses. I then hope to take short drive. I repaired a few more places on the inner fenders and painted them first time I have ever done paintwork. From what I can tell, the engine compartment should not be gloss paint. I have also went back at rust repair, trunk is now in place 100%. I am now going along and fixing all the other rust damage. It is closer than it was but still a ways before it is back on the frame. Steve
  5. I have located the needed mount, I want thank everyone for the help Steve
  6. Kimrod Thanks for asking the pictures don't show how bad this car is rusted. The panels don't even make good scrap the car is all but gone saved the power items and drivetrain and radiator Contact Mr Earl and see what he has he is most likely closer to your location Steve
  7. Mike Your project is looking great! Here are a few pictures of the clip, the two on the side that are not on the tack strip have strip seal added. The other snaps must use the tack strip as the sealer. I had all philips screws holding in the snaps. Steve
  8. Thanks, for the comets I almost used the big fine hammer for the modification it would have been easier. I have one more question on the exhaust system. The hanger over the differential, Buick calls this #3 hanger in parts figure. I have no examples of the hanger for comparison in my treasures. I do have one from a 54 Roadmaster and it is ready for use if it is correct. I have attached a picture with the holes that are available in the frame the 54 uses a hole closer to center of the chassis. This is position #2 in the photo. When I look at the view provided by Buick, I tend to believe 53-used position #1 for the hanger. My parts book stops in 53 is this the same hanger in 54? Why does the 53 frame have 2 threaded holes in this area? Little detail questions inspection plate for torque converter is this just a flat plate with no stiffening ribs, is it black? I will most likely fabricate one. I have never seen on still with a car. The cover to access the torque converter, the examples I have had no paint was it painted at all. Thanks Steve
  9. Thanks Willie, I have twisted and turned pipes and even tried two different pipes and never could the clearance needed. The new pipe would not fit it was not even close. I ended up using a good used pipe and making a little modification. I now have plenty of clearance at the pass through and along the frame. I believe the header pipe is not correct but this little change on the pipe to muffler did the job. Steve
  10. Installing the exhaust system on my 53, the car came with an exhaust system it looks like it should fit. I hope it is for this car and it can be used. My question is the pipe at the inlet hits the frame. I had one from a parts car, it cleaned up nice and I was going to use it, but it rested against the frame on the right side pass through it would not take much to make it clear. I tried another pipe that came with the car after I realized it was for this car it will fit but the contact is much worse. The new system has no part numbers. I installed the muffler flat this looks correct to me. The other question is the tail pipe outlet should it line up with the right frame rail. I can make a pipe clear the pass through easy enough if needed. I do have some adjustment on the tail pipe before it is clamped in place. Does anyone have a picture or two of their exhaust systems or ideas regarding the install. I have a few pictures attached. Thanks Steve
  11. Still searching I need the mount on the Dynaflow and the clamp Steve
  12. I plan on cutting a new strap. The problem is the metal mount for the transmission and pipe I have neither. Steve
  13. I have a 54 RM that I am parting out and as luck would have it this part is long gone. Tom this helps with a larger pool to pick from Thanks for the info. Steve
  14. I am looking for this mount that bolts on the transmission for the exhaust hanger. From what I can tell this is a 1953 only hanger Thanks Steve
  15. I have the remains of a 54 Roadmaster I am saving the power brake parts Engine and transmission. This is very rusty and it is picked over, sat for years in an old wrecking yard. The dash is gone as is the front seat; it does however have power windows. Door and quarter window moved when I applied power left side door and quarter window did not move. The bright work around front and back windows looks good. It also has parts and pieces of a continental kit. Shot me a PM if interested in anything. Power window all that I have $ 225 you pay freight. Steve
  16. Power steering noise is an issue I have worked on in large trucks and to some degree hydraulic systems. The systems all have similar complaints. They have Noise, heat, leaks or slow and weak performance. In most cases the noise is air entrapment in the oil, it is one of the things that is hard to get your head around why does it not leak if air is getting in the system. It can be caused by failed seals in the steering box power steering pump or hoses, I replace hoses every time and make sure fittings are not damaged. How I would troubleshoot this, if your reservoir has a removable lid make sure it is up to level start the engine do not turn the wheel remove lid check for air or foam, if none install lid and then work steering left or right shut it off and check for air bubbles in the oil, foaming oil. If you have foam in the oil make, sure hoses are tight and double check at each step make sure the lid is on enough to prevent a spill. If you have foam in the oil, does it only do it turning left or right? If the pump is new and the hoses are correct with what you have said on your other post the gear is possibly the cause seals failed and sucking air. If you have access to any test equipment like a test loop, this will help in troubleshooting the problem. One web site to check is BAB steering out of calif they have a section on troubleshooting fluids. Let us know what you find. Steve https://babsteering.com
  17. I have a parts car with the power brake vacuum pump. I have removed the motor looks as if someone has been in this in years gone by. The motor would not run pulled it apart and found the brush holder rusted out and lower bushing stuck to the armature shaft. I dropped this at a starter repair shop and they were able to come up with a brush holder and bushing. I cleaned up the vacuum motor and assembled the unit tried it and it works and pulls a good vacuum. I do have a question if a spring goes on the seat it looks to have a wittiness mark on the seat for one. I hope someone has been inside one of these. I have attached a few pictures. The vanes remind me of an impact wrench motor. To lube the vanes a wick drips oil down on the vanes through the upper shaft bushing. If anyone has any information on the vacuum brake booster please let me know. Thanks Steve
  18. Few of the summer projects around the house are wrapping up. I am getting ready for my fall and winter work in the shop. I have seen clamps on the lines on the engine on a few core engines. I have been looking and have yet to find a supplier see picture. If anyone knows of a supplier let me know. I am also working on the Exhaust hangers I have this hanger from a parts car and will most likely replace the belting and clean it up. The tail pipe hanger a few vendors have for sale is this a correct a hanger for a 53 V8 or is it a universal type hanger they sell? Thanks for any advice Steve
  19. I was at a local show this weekend I was glad to see this 55. Nice car with a fresh engine and a piston sitting by the car, not many people bring a piston for show and tell. I looked at the piston and to my surprise it was welded, I had to ask what this was all about. The story is new owner found a plug wire not attached he attached the plug wire then started the engine. It had piston noise and when he drove it down the road it smoked horribly, enough you could not see behind the car. Someone welded a STD piston then put it in a 030 over block. It sounds like he worked it out with the seller regarding the purchase in the end. I have seen many things but this is a first. Steve
  20. Thanks for the advice I will even add thread locker Steve
  21. I am looking for torque converter bolts to flexplate my bolts are in tough shape. I have looked around but have not found a source yet. 5/16 by 1-1/4" NF Steve
  22. Welcome aboard the forum is a great resource and you have a nice project. 53 Buick V8 and 12 volt was a big change back then. A few things I would consider on spark and the engine cranking over. Sounds like you have the old battery still in the circuit if so remove it and use a known good temporary battery; old batteries can lengthen time needed for troubleshooting. Once you have it cranking over reliably then move on to spark, use a voltmeter at resistor. Check values, cranking mode is 12 volt to resistor then the voltage will drop in run mode. I have seen ballast resistors fail, unhook the wires and check for an open in the resistor. The points will be oxidized. New points and Condenser would be a good plan as John said. If new points aren't handy file the the points just to get the engine to start. I have even used a small piece of fine sandpaper on points. One trick is remove the distributor cap with the points closed key on use a screwdriver and open and close points this is faster than all this pesky troubleshooting. You should see a spark at the points when doing this. Then you should have spark at the spark plugs if the cap and plug wires are OK. Fuel will be your next issue once you have spark. Follow John D recommendations, wires degrade and mice eat insulation use a battery disconnect when not at your car. Good luck Steve
  23. I installed the engine and transmission and a few other items and decided to take my chassis to a local show about a month ago. Not many people get the opportunity to see a project at this point. Now that I have my brake reservoir, I will try to wrap up the chassis this summer. Who knows I might even drive it without the body and test it before all the sheet metal is in the way. Steve