Morgansdad Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 Need help please ! Hello everybody. Hope everyone is safe from all that is going on in the world. I need some help. I finally got my 29 sorted out (or so I thought). I've got a newly rebuilt Zenith 1 carb on my car and every so often at 1/2 throttle or so, it backfires thru the carb. Not always but enough for concern. I feel like I've got the timing dead on and I've followed the carb tuning that I found on another site. No change however. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 Check your points gap. Rubbing block wear can close up the point gap and result in bad backfiring. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgansdad Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 Thanks, MikeC5 I will check the gap. It could very well be the problem since I was inside the distributor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46 woodie Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 Also check the condenser while you're in the distributor. I had one go bad and it made the engine sound like you describe. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 I would agree that it is more likely to be a condenser going bad. Quality of imported condensers seems to be a real problem these days. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgansdad Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 Thanks, guys. I will replace the condenser while checking the points gap. I really appreciate everyone's help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 (edited) Points and condenser should still backfire thru the exhaust most often, not the carb. Too lean mixture and sticking intake valves like to pop out the carb. Edited September 20, 2020 by JFranklin (see edit history) 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W_Higgins Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 I would add that the Nu-Rex timing light kit makes it to where you don't have to "feel like" you have the timing right because you will be able to see when it is actually firing. I know a lot of people turn their noses up at it, but the simple truth is the amount of backlash is different in every Model A and you can't actually know what is going on with any amount of consistency without seeing it on a light: https://www.brattons.com/ignition-timing-tools.html That also makes it easy to use the light to check for things like the pulley mark dancing all over the scale due to point float or what not. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Milewski Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 Are you full retard position when you timed it? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Milewski Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 #1 should be at top dead center too then time it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 Generally speaking a backfire (which technically is back through the carb) is caused by a lean mixture. An afterfire (which is technically gas firing in the muffler or exhaust pipe after the engine) is caused by a too rich mixture. Common usage has people WRONGLY calling any combustion outside of the cylinder a backfire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brass is Best Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 Check your manifold gaskets as well. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 1 hour ago, Brass is Best said: Check your manifold gaskets as well. Soap sudsy water and a paint brush works nice 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flivverking Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Lets hope not a nexhaust valve is on it's way out. Hard to believe the Model A would run fairly well other then this pop and it be caused by the timing being off so much.. A scant to retarded overall (and not noticable to a novice as car appears to move along )it gets hot to overheat after some driving of just several hard miles. When To advance timing overall the starter begins kick back a bit(you notice that) when starting at full retard but car starts and when timing is advanced the worst effect is a rolling idle. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgansdad Posted September 21, 2020 Author Share Posted September 21, 2020 Thanks everyone. I'm going to try and check everything everyone said. I'll keep you updated. I love this forum ! Thanks again. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Some years ago I drove a borrowed Model-A on tour. It had a backfire and the issue turned out to be that the plate in the distributor was "dished", resulting in marginal contact. A bad condenser will also cause the issue you describe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 also make sure your plug wires are in the correct firing order !! dont ask me how i know if not then check for intake leaks...when it was running if you touched it ?? Check it !! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46 woodie Posted September 23, 2020 Share Posted September 23, 2020 The Model A Ford does not use plug wires, they use a brass connector, from the distributor to the plug, it's impossible to screw up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 6 hours ago, 46 woodie said: The Model A Ford does not use plug wires, they use a brass connector, from the distributor to the plug, it's impossible to screw up. You have obviously never experienced some of the repair shops I have seen. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now