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Everything posted by Flivverking

  1. What is it your asking ? How to fix it,how to improve it ,how to preserve,how to arrest it? Or you just showing? Short of keeping it clean,keeping excess water away from it,keeping it out of extreme cold and heat and hot sun or moth ball the car in a dark cool dry place 24/7 365 days a year..there is not much you can do but be mindful and enjoy what you have for as long as it holds up . I've seen people glue chips back on,wick super glue under cracked edges and so..but the paint is going to slowly(some times extremely slowly if your lucky) age no matter what ,but do not let it deter your from enjoying the experience of driving the car,often! It takes some seriously thick lacquer or lacquer layers over some other paint to do whats happening with the brown! .
  2. Funny thing about the small, low rider bug ,was the owner was not close to small in the waist and neither was his very pudgy wife and neither were the 2 manly girls( couple?) that piled in it .
  3. Rarer is to see the grab handles and what really are top rests for a roadster on a coupe..Never saw that before. Everyone has a vision. Overall a very well done looking modifed "A" Ha!
  4. Once a common "any day of the week "sight in my area of Connecticut in the 70s 80s 90s.. I'm about the only one I see now (when something is up and running) .LOL
  5. While exchanging and returning incorrect parts (as usual these days at A-Z )at the local Autozone this low riding vintage bug was in the lot. Very clean and detailed and had some extra horsepower shoe -horned in it. I quessed 1962 but the not so good with spoken english owner came out and said 1960. Paint was as good as it gets and was very close to the original steering wheel plastic color..interior was black and nicely done.
  6. Our present '27 Chrysler has not been named as it has not been on the road since 1971 .When we see what it's personality is in a month or two..we will see if a name comes..Some times it take a while for it to organically happen,along whether masculine or femmine? Several past cars were just nicknamed by others and stuck. A barn type 29 Ford pick up was named "Little Black Sambo"(from the story book) shortened to "Sambo" .Not PC but a dear old black grandma of a close friend named it..so it was just fine. A 48 Chrysler became "Big Red" after a club president named it after being repainted in 10 coats of RED! free Laquer and was for ever forever present and noticable for a few years Our Whippet we called the "Toleto Vibrator" A 32 Nash was "Ms Norman."LOL. A Dodge Touring was Esmeralda. A Maxwell touring of course was "Jack"( for Jack Benny) or sometimes "Black Jack". A 29 Essex was "Uncle Maury" .
  7. While investigating a '30 , 4 banger Ford for sale,in conversation with seller ,his cousion restores/ rebuilds Chevrolets in the 1933-1935 or so range.. He is great at the wood working and in demand..He is so busy now with a 2 year waiting list for restoring for others he had to find another craftsman to do the wood working for him up to his standard . I've seen many past posts about Chevy/GM in this era asking about wood kits or who can do the wood. Here is minimum contact info. David,860-874-8734 (Early 30s Chevrolet restoration specialty) I believe in Connecticut ? with 860 area code.
  8. I've receintly looked a several 1930 era cars of older restoration to possibly buy for a nice regular driver in near turn key condition. Some were repainted incorrect colors for that particular model but the color was available on other body or deluxe models.Some were a pleasent but modern color. This was a major influance on calculating an offer especially when coupled with other distractions from authenticity and what ever the standard of previous work was and what now was needed. I can repaint my own cars but do not want to pay a price for too far out an incorrect paint scheme that may not be attractive to the next guy if I have to resell under duress. Same goes for interiors. Often these changed details are the "cats meow" to some one who made the changes and thats fine..But they shouldn't expect the same price for a more correct car in similar mechanical and overall other cosmetic conditions. One thing you see is guys put deluxe colors and upholstery( and top fabric if a convertable) in a standard cheaper model ,same year ,car ,but none of the other deluxe items like trim and fender spares,trunk racks.. etc. These cars loose there original period styling and charm for me and the (IT) factor that attracts one to a specific thing over another in a buying situation.
  9. I added a few LED shop lights to my basement workshop area as the old fluoresent bulbs die off during the past year..So I'm slowling converting to the superior brite lighting of the Leds. I have none in the garage yet..and just have to bite the bullet and buy them all at once..about 10 fixtures at minimum. I'm gonna have a couple of "floaters" to have for movable low level lighting when working under cars and for painting.. My entire life with vintage cars inside, I absolutely never had enough light. I love LED lighting when atmospheres like in a warm living space isn't required .Theu are brite for automobile lighting but NOT for vintage headlamps with refectors..They appear brite at the lamps but do not throw and project the light forward very well for some reason.I guess due to no ability of filament focusing.?
  10. Comming up , The next installment of, "How The Wheels Turn" Our story today starts with a decaration that I will admit, when it comes to resleeving these hydraulic cylinders or master cylinders,to prove how much an idiot I really am,in my thoughts of how they do the job is they clean and bore out the casting to receive a SOLID bushing that is pressed in.Then they bore and hone the sleeve to the correct size. Boy am I dumb! After some study from the first cylinder problem,I'm 99.9% sure they are boring the cylinder just enough to fit a sleeve made of a specific thicknees from flat sheet rolled to shape or a premade tubing stock that is larger and they cut away some to reform a small diameter as required,then press it in,dress the ends ,then only hone it..The sleeve it self is not bored straight true! In my previous pictures and later ones you easily see the seam and 1 or more paralle lines that I bet are part of the reforming the sleeve to a smaller diameter. It's it or miss whether the bore comes out round and true (enough) with these marks or that the seam joint is good enough where the 2 edges meet to hold a seal. Monday when I called, I didn't get the regular guy with a bit of accent,but a younger happy fellow who when I said the cylinder is defective,he eagerly said "oh! just send it back ,with a note of the problem", like we get them sent back all the time attitilude and why drag out a phone discussion. Our program today is brought to you by , "The Miracle Car Company" Remember folks! If it's a good car,it's a Miracle!
  11. Just about every major city in America that has any type of manufacturing within it will have a bearing supplier..2 to several for a very large city . Those bearings are sitting on a shelf someplace.. Let your fingers do the walking.If you could use a phone book back in the old days,they can walk just as well on a smart phone ,PC,Laptop or Ipad key board or pad.That sesrch will pull more then your local phonebook ever did or what this forum could. .Bearing Suppliers, Industrial Bearing Suppliers, or automotive bearings and roller bearings are key search words . Good luck.
  12. These cute 4 cylinder W.Overland Whippets or "Toleto Vibrators" are surprising good runners,fun to drive ,have good 4 wheel brakes and should keep up with Model A Ford type cars very well..
  13. "Here is the long over due and over long ,sloppy written 2nd episode of the never ending saga "How the Wheels Turn", Brought to by "Slicky Auto Wax,the only auto wax guaranteed to leave a shine for 6 months! and the only auto wax you can eat! Our scene opens a few months later after sending back our leaking wheel cylinder from the 1927 Chrysler 70 .(The cylinder was leaking just from the firewall mounted remote brake reservoir's pressure of the fluid .) The cylinder was accepted for return. After the rebuilder received the cylinder I was phone called a week later to explain what the problem was( Explained for the second time by phone,and there was a note with the return). The company rep did not understand that I thought the problem would be" self evident" to them durning examination of the cylinder.. Over the phone I had recap the bit about the groving..and it shouldn't be there etc. At one point in humorous way I had to tell this guy." Put your glasses on youg man"" because he wasn't seeing it. O.k. 3 and 1/2 weeks go by and the returned cylinder shows up in the mail..no paper work or notice from the company of fix and pending home return. I reinstalled the cylinder a few days later,opened the reservoir tank valve and let the fuild find it's way out,if it can,and it will with the slightest escape route, right away or in a day or 2... The cylinder didn't leak!..Great! After chasing bleeder screw weeps up to a couple of weeks ago, we just got to seriously attempt to bleed the brake lines yesterday June 23rd. 2 rounds of gravity bleeding one wheel at a time..we took a break before trying the pedal. An hour later I reach in and hand push the pedal and I feel resistance after 2 inches of travel..Great! So I hop in and foot press the pedal to see how far it go an how spoongy ! The pedal was pleasently firmish at half way down and I heard the squak of the return brake band springs ,so I knew things were moving ,then woosh!!! the pedal hit the floor and I hear a splattery, gooshy, oozing wet noise..Like explosive diarrhea from food posioning😱😨😌😞 ShxT! My gut feels icky instantly as I hoop out to see where and what blew out. Left rear wheel has a nice puddle under it and a steady heavy drip off the brake band. A made dash is made (again) ,like I did a few months earlier, to get a refinish wood wheel off before too much damage is done by fluid contact dripping. This includes getting tools, taking out the axle hub cotter pin ,getting the torqued on axle nut off, screwing on a wheel hub puller etc.to pull the wheel all trying to beat the paint from lifting ,in less then a minute. So wheel is off ,the inner backing plate is wet ,loosing it's paint ,the new woven brake band lining is soaked and fluid wicking several inches beyond each side of the direct line of fluid contact...and of course the one side of the wheel cylinder boot is soaked and dripping. I pull back the boot ,it's all wet and a table spoon of fluid runs out. The cylinder shows the same marks or groves the length of the cylinder bore as the first bum cylinder,but not quite as bad.. What think is they are are using seamed tubing material that also has other imperfections inside that boring and the finishing process do Not remove for a clean smooth cylindrical bore end to end. "Apple Hydraulics" has slipped down about 5 notches out of 5 and is not on my list of reliable high quality rebuilding ,having a 50% failure rate with my cylinders. They appear to me that presently are 1) using the wrong type and poor quality sleeving material 2) have an incompetent machinist 3) have no quality control I have peaked the all the cylinders when mounted on the car by pealing back the dust boots when I re-installed the first bad cylinder and wheels were off. With good light and mirror they all showed these length of bore groves,just not as pronounced as the first cylinder and this next bad one. I'm fully prepared that I will be sending back all the cylinders and master cylinder as they leak and blow out one by one as I get closer to good brake system pressure.. Now Monday morning I get to make the call to Apple Hydraulics and go through the return again..and hear the annoying bull response that I probably have the brake shoes on wrong.did I swap the cylinder to another side to narrow downhe the issue ,how do I know the problem is the cylinder and I didn't cause it crap! Please welcome our new sponsor, "Never Blow Head Gaskets " The 3 piece laminate Head gasket "for the man who knows a good gasket when he sees one" . Made of 2 piece copper ,pinched and crimped sandwich cover with genuine asbestos packing ,mixed and treated with special albino wambat hair as to never catch fire and burn from combustion pressure or leak water that causes that unsightly cylinder block staining .,Gauranteed never to blow out. That ends this episode of "As the Wheels Turn" We will now have a musical interlude of "Organ Music to Change Diapers By" Played by "The Wizard of his Organ" 11 fingered, Sir. Oskar Von Bumperbar.
  14. Great going Mr. 15 year old and good luck! When I was that age I bought a similar coupe(all one color LOL) for the going rate of $500.00 in 1976. I drove it the night I brought home, peeing water out the tail pipe with an inside crack cylinder head.. Today that 1976 500 bucks is just under $2,400 in 2021 buying power. If you double it to a grand in '76 it would be like paying $4,800 to buy the ad car above in 1976. .No way would anyone pay 1,000 bucks for that unrestored coupe in 1976. But they will today spend the 1976 equivalent of $4,800 (plus$ ) on such car. (Are you following my drift? (Cuz I'm not.) Funny in a sad way, how most of the upper class and new breed lower class AACA folks would rip this old car down as not even a parts car, if were a '30 Buick or Cadillac and wine about being upside down and not worth restoring and all that poo poo ! Thank goodness during the golden age of hobby vintage car collectors and restorers ,most all didn't have that piss poor attitude or we wouldn't have so many great old cars around today!
  15. When I did more of my own older car upholstery I would scavage those old fashion mattreses for the heavy brown cotton batting and the coarse hair like padding. Still have a roll. Great for Model T's and Maxwell's.
  16. Back in the day (1820-1960 )when movers use to use large wood barrels ang kegs to move and store stuff, they use a material discribed as a coarse, yellow ,curly grassey ,straw stuff for cusioning and in old car repainting (brush paint and varnish and early Duco ) they often discribe rubbing down between coats of this and that with "curled hair". I'm not sure that all of what is called loose horse wadding for upholstery was even horse hair.. If it was, I guess it was all collected from the mane and tale of millions of dead horses going through the fat and bone rendering and glue factory plants of the period ,ick! I heard of hogs hair too which is more renewable from live hogs , but probably slautered just the same like cattle and old horses.
  17. Walt G. I think you meen to say,$ 5.00 was an average DAYS pay in 1927..Not a weeks pay. Even Henry Ford started the $5.00 a day wage in 1914. An average job like Bank tellers were pulling $25 to $30 bucks a week in 1927. .. Those are some very nice scale toy sedans . The restoration and finishes are beautifully done.
  18. I read above your going 45 mph down the road and the engine stalls (quits) and you stop...With or with out backfiring or stumbling, but like out of gas I bet.? Then what? .It starts right away or sits a short spell and then starts and you go again for a while? If so ,I'd lean toward a large piece of shxt is in the fuel tank following the gas draw swirling down to the bottom of the tank and blocking or slowing the feed to the carb bowl.. The car sits a spell ,movement of the car fooling around, gas gets by or moves the blockage enough so gas slowly fills the carb. You get going again for a while and the blocking bit follows the swirl(like an unseen current) again and settles down to block off the fuel outlet at the bottom of the tank again Repeat and repeat... Take off the carb gas line check for flow ( note you may only get blockage and motor stall with fuel trying to flow )and blow back through gas line into the tank after the car comes to hault and see it the car starts right up sooner.? We've seen 3 model A's in the past with old cork bits in the tank do this. One fixed is the use of one of the tubular filter screens you put up in the bottom of the tank with the shut off valve. Other fix..pull the cowl tank. And make sure you install the tank filler screen/fume arrester. Take note: deceleration with closed throttle (such as going down a hill and using engine braking ),a slight poping and spitting out the carburetor is considered very normal and generally shows(back in the day) your mixure is just about right and on the " lean" side for economy ,which is good, but only if overall performance doesn't suffer. Todays fuel may require a bit of a richer mixture on some A's.
  19. Not to compare our buick seller 414 here to anything near ,but twice in the past two months I went look and was prepared to buy on the spot 2 cars of the 20's that were advertised as running driving cars..about 2 hours drive away each. Neither would start .Both had so called new batteries and was one was dead. The dead battery fellow tried to jump then quick charge it with one of those emergency gizmos ,but the sorry old heap would hardly turn ,but was IT was able to give out a loud shot gun backfire!..Then the seller mentioned "oh,it does that some time" ..WTF! The other non starting car,the guy finally shows me an old video on his phone of the car motor running... Both these "jamokes" has several days to get these cars in order and you can tell by dust and junk around( and the last minute text from them to text them back when I'm close) they hadn't looked at the cars till I showed up. I knew from in the first 3 minutes on arrival on each car , that I wasn't close to being interested ,due to things like" perfect straight body" that was far from it and one with the worst fitting NEW? sun bleached black canvas to washed out gray touring top you ever saw. So I F'en lingered over an hour plus with each guy to entertain myself and waste THEIR time pretending I was intetested and getting them in conversations of other interests till I got board and hungry! I left both sellers with "get it up and running ,call me and I come right back" No one called yet...which is o.k. .
  20. So you are saying you are having this trouble with 2 different carbs.. Sounds like to much of a coincidence to me. Ethier it is not a carb issue or your carb set up is out of wack and YOUR duplicating the problem second time around. Check your float level and your running mixture again for possibly to LEAN if you thinking must be carb. Leaky intake gaskets can have some popping and back fire cause but not stalling.
  21. Nice car and 20gs seems fair enough for the seller and more then fair for th buyer.
  22. Wing tips! Men forget how good we look in pink and the more butch you are the better. Or are to afraid to wear pink . The only thing a guy can't pull off is a pink leather jacket...LOL Rare to even see a gay guy wear a pink leather, police, biker or racing jacket...that is in public..😜 So says my nephew's ,husband.πŸ˜…
  23. The whole thing is a fraud without question... Don't be surprized if the extra info and pictures you sent to crooked fake name" Mike" from Harris( bull shxt rip off doesn't exist) fake Classic cars and your original ad eventually show up on some other faux Classic Cars For Sale .Com web pages,for years after you have sold your car.. You know, the ones with ripped off ads from old ebay auctions and stolen from other legit car sites you used. These fake sites generally show no phone number to contact the seller unless it was in the original stolen text.. There is usually the"to contact the seller" flields" collecting your name,phone number,email and often address..all to be sold or added to scam lists and confirm other info about YOU! . The net is full of these fake ,stolen and grossly out dated car ads. 3 cars I sold over 5 to ten years ago show up in searches like they were current.. 2 ads were stolen from old Ebay auction ads, complete with all photos and lenghty text.and one Craigslist ad, also complete. Both had phone numbers in the text and I received calls up to 2019 about 2 of the cars listed on sites I never heard of so had no listing .
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