bodayguy Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 I have a full set of Bilsteins ready for my 64. Not sure if I could/should tackle installing them myself. I do have a floor jack and stands and some tools (but not a compressor and side-facing driver to reach in there easily). I have never done shocks. My first thought was to pay the mechanic to do it, but now maybe I need a new mechanic (my usual shop is ignoring me) and I'm not thrilled at trying a new place. Should I have a go myself?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70rivme Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 I would encourage you to tackle it yourself. Just make sure to support the car appropriately and do one corner at a time. As long as it's not too rusty you should get by with hand tools. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awk409ak Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 Hi, The only issue I had was sometimes the piston and shaft will rotate as you try to loosen the top nut. Had to get creative on holding the shaft. I say start up top first with the nut and some WD40 or Liquid Wrench on that nut. Art Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 Rather than trying to break the nut loose & the shaft will always turn & you need some way to hold the shaft from turning can be a frustrating exercise. What I've done in the past is to get a deep 9/16ths. socket & a long extension. Get the socket over the upper nut & bend the upper stud back & forth until it breaks off. I've been doing it like this for years & in most cases don't even try to loosen the nut. Start now to soak the nuts & bolts with a rust penetrating fluid like WD40 or PBlaster on the bottom of the front shocks, top & bottom of rear shocks now & give the product time to does its job will make things go much easier. After the front top is done on top the bottom bolts should be easy. Same with the rear top & bottom are just nuts & bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr914 Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 easy and you will LOVE the difference the bilsteins make Also the GS springs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zimm63 Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 There is a special socket to hold the top of the shaft and turn it. Hold the nuts with an open end wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 That is an easy job and inexpensive to farm out. It is an ideal job to use to check out a new shop or enhance your relationship with a mechanic you already know. I would consider dropping it off, giving some specific instructions, and moving a relationship forward. The instructions and my concern would be the amount of swing they allowed the rear suspension arms. I would want to be sure the axle was supported and only allowed to drop a small amount, not the full swing as I have seen many times. Doing that twists the control arm bushings too far and can tear them and the track bar bushing. Limiting the drop should be OK. When I do any work that extends the travel of suspension parts I loosen all the pivot point bolts and use a heavy cold chisel to free the serrated ends of the bushing sleeve so it swings on the bolts. Then I finish by tightening them a ride height. Most shops don't know that. If you tell them many will ignore you. That's where the relationship comes in, as well as the generous tip. "Oh, look how far it dropped when I unbolted the shocks" is not a good observation to make. The front usually won't drop so much and has metal bushings, but be aware. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
first64riv Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 I think the rears are a lot easier than the fronts. You may want to tackle those first to get some confidence...if you need it. I plan on doing the front suspension myself but just haven't gotten the time to order parts. Maybe it's more a money thing than time. Haha. Good luck and try to take pics as you go. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 The answer to your question has a lot to do with the amount of rust on your suspension parts. Assuming no rust problem doing it yourself is fairly easy. The fronts will require a special tool designed to hold the center stud while loosening the bolt such as: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002INZIFY/ref=as_int_dp I personally would probably do the fronts myself and pay for the rears only because of all the contortions involved getting the top bolts out! Another thing if you do it yourself, all newer shocks are gas charged and Bilsteins are high pressure so you will need a safe way to compress them for installation. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 If you do this job yourself, be sure to support the car in the back with jack stands under the rear axle. Do not support the back of the car with jack stands under the frame and let the rear axle hang down. The rear shocks limit how far the rear axle comes down and when you remove the shocks, the axle will keep coming down. It can mess things up back there, and possibly hurt you if you are not expecting the axle to fall that far. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodayguy Posted August 6, 2019 Author Share Posted August 6, 2019 Lots of great advice thanks! At this point I’m leaning toward going to a new mechanic that my friends are suggesting. I figure this is a 3-4 hour job so not pricey and like said above, a good test of a new mechanic to establish a relationship with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 In reality on a lift MAX an hour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodayguy Posted August 6, 2019 Author Share Posted August 6, 2019 4 minutes ago, telriv said: In reality on a lift MAX an hour. That would be great, but maybe the bolts are rusty and sticky ... we will see! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 2 hours ago, bodayguy said: I figure this is a 3-4 hour job so not pricey... Dunno what shop rates are in your area, but 3-4 hours around here qualifies as "pricey" in my book. 2 hours ago, bodayguy said: ...a good test of a new mechanic to establish a relationship with. It would pay greater dividends to establish a relationship with your tools. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awk409ak Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 I agree with Kongman "establish a relationship with your tools". This will also give you some self satisfaction, rewarding experience and banged up knuckles.😆😆 All part of the fun an older car. Art 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 Half an hour ago I made an appointment to have the oil changed in my V12 BMW. I am bringing my own oil and filter. I will give him $20 for dumping and filling and $10 for ice cream for him and his wife. For that expense I will get to walk around under my car, look into all the nooks and crannies, touch and jiggle lots of parts, and have a good idea of how things are. That will be done using a drive on lift so the underskirting won't risk getting disturbed. Same as the other old cars that get an oil change once a year, sometimes with only 500 miles racked up. Value is not always on the surface. When I leave the house at 9 AM and pull back in the driveway at 9:30 a few times during the year my wife will ask "Where did you go?" "Got the car inspected" "Did you have an appointment?" "No" And he has been trained not to use a two post lift. Bernie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 On 8/5/2019 at 5:22 AM, bodayguy said: I have a full set of Bilsteins ready for my 64. Not sure if I could/should tackle installing them myself. I do have a floor jack and stands and some tools (but not a compressor and side-facing driver to reach in there easily). I have never done shocks. My first thought was to pay the mechanic to do it, but now maybe I need a new mechanic (my usual shop is ignoring me) and I'm not thrilled at trying a new place. Should I have a go myself?? Sir, I’m not that intuitive when it comes to visualizing how to some mechanical things. I put Bilsteins on my 63 Riv and the new shocks along with a rebuilt steering box. Helped a lot. It’s not hard just tedious if you mess up. DONT UNFURL the shock until you are ready to thread the shaft through the top hole. If you open up or unfurl the shock it will be too long and you’ll have to Muscle the shock in place to bolt it up. Double nut the top fasteners so the nut doesn’t come loose. Other than that it want hard at all. Turbinator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 Depending on how the shocks are strapped (over or under the nut), you may be able to get them in place before cutting the strap (you should certainly be able to do that on the rear). If you do have to cut the strap, you can always compress the shock into position using a small jack. On the rears, you can also move to axle up and down to facilitate alignment. The Bilsteins should be drop-in replacements, but a) check the mounting ears on the front shocks to make sure they have the correct spacing, and b) make sure the bushings on the rears match the bolt diameter (you might need an adapter sleeve). Heed the warning about letting the rear axle drop too far. I jack it up by the pumpkin, put stands under the frame, then lower the axle a little bit to a good working clearance and pull the wheel. You can do this with normal hand tools. The only potential difficulties are removing the top nut on the old fronts and compressing the new shock if you cut the strap. I tried one of those special oblong sockets for the front shocks; I was underwhelmed. Vise grips on the flat and spin it off (if the PB Blaster works), break the shaft, or crack the nut. And while you're under there, replace the rear track bar bushings. It's easy, cheap, and muy beneficial. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 (edited) 19 hours ago, KongaMan said: And while you're under there, replace the rear track bar bushings. It's easy, cheap, and muy beneficial. I agree with this 100%. The old, original, worn rubber track bar bushings let the rear of the car sway around too much at higher speed, when changing lanes, and when cornering. Put new polygraphite bushings in there and it really tightens up the handling! https://p-s-t.com/i-23160475-polygraphite-rear-track-bar-bushing-set.html#!year%3D1965||make%3DBUICK||model%3DRIVIERA Note: This supplier lists these bushings for the '65 Riviera but not for the '63. Ignore that. They are the same! The new ones go right in. The hard part is getting the old bushings out. You can press them out, if you have a press. You can cut them out with an air chisel, if you have one. You can cut the old bushing outer metal shell with a hacksaw. Whatever method you use, don't cut into or damage the bushing surface of the track bar. Edited August 7, 2019 by Jim Cannon (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 In my experience, the easiest, cleanest, and fastest way to replace almost any bushing is to borrow a ball joint press from Autozone. Get every adapter set they have with it and cobble up some configuration that works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted August 8, 2019 Share Posted August 8, 2019 On 8/5/2019 at 9:40 PM, telriv said: In reality on a lift MAX an hour. Tom, how minutes are in your hour? Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted August 8, 2019 Share Posted August 8, 2019 10 hours ago, Jim Cannon said: I agree with this 100%. The old, original, worn rubber track bar bushings let the rear of the car sway around too much at higher speed, when changing lanes, and when cornering. Put new polygraphite bushings in there and it really tightens up the handling! https://p-s-t.com/i-23160475-polygraphite-rear-track-bar-bushing-set.html#!year%3D1965||make%3DBUICK||model%3DRIVIERA Note: This supplier lists these bushings for the '65 Riviera but not for the '63. Ignore that. They are the same! The new ones go right in. The hard part is getting the old bushings out. You can press them out, if you have a press. You can cut them out with an air chisel, if you have one. You can cut the old bushing outer metal shell with a hacksaw. Whatever method you use, don't cut into or damage the bushing surface of the track bar. Jim, believe it or not I put in new hard rubber I got from Tom Telesco on the track bar and the front suspension. The shocks, new rubber, ‘newly rebuilt steering box, and front end alignment made the car steer and ride much better. Front end alignment specs courtesy Tom Telesco was a big plus. Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted August 8, 2019 Share Posted August 8, 2019 On 8/6/2019 at 2:10 PM, KongaMan said: Depending on how the shocks are strapped (over or under the nut), you may be able to get them in place before cutting the strap (you should certainly be able to do that on the rear). If you do have to cut the strap, you can always compress the shock into position using a small jack. On the rears, you can also move to axle up and down to facilitate alignment. The Bilsteins should be drop-in replacements, but a) check the mounting ears on the front shocks to make sure they have the correct spacing, and b) make sure the bushings on the rears match the bolt diameter (you might need an adapter sleeve). Heed the warning about letting the rear axle drop too far. I jack it up by the pumpkin, put stands under the frame, then lower the axle a little bit to a good working clearance and pull the wheel. You can do this with normal hand tools. The only potential difficulties are removing the top nut on the old fronts and compressing the new shock if you cut the strap. I tried one of those special oblong sockets for the front shocks; I was underwhelmed. Vise grips on the flat and spin it off (if the PB Blaster works), break the shaft, or crack the nut. And while you're under there, replace the rear track bar bushings. It's easy, cheap, and muy beneficial. Mr. Konga Man have you tried the tool that uses a coil to heat up the fastener for removal? The tool is pricey and only works on metal that has iron in it. Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted August 8, 2019 Share Posted August 8, 2019 On 8/6/2019 at 10:26 AM, 60FlatTop said: Half an hour ago I made an appointment to have the oil changed in my V12 BMW. I am bringing my own oil and filter. I will give him $20 for dumping and filling and $10 for ice cream for him and his wife. For that expense I will get to walk around under my car, look into all the nooks and crannies, touch and jiggle lots of parts, and have a good idea of how things are. That will be done using a drive on lift so the underskirting won't risk getting disturbed. Same as the other old cars that get an oil change once a year, sometimes with only 500 miles racked up. Value is not always on the surface. When I leave the house at 9 AM and pull back in the driveway at 9:30 a few times during the year my wife will ask "Where did you go?" "Got the car inspected" "Did you have an appointment?" "No" And he has been trained not to use a two post lift. Bernie Bernie, my four post lift was money spent Idid not want to let go. Now, that I have and use the lift to work on the Riv it has made life much easier. Not easy, but easier. only problem I’ve had with the 4 post lift is you have to have a jack on the lift to get the tires up. Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted August 8, 2019 Share Posted August 8, 2019 We did the oil change this afternoon. The reason for the four post lift was to avoid damage to the full belly pan and aluminum heat shields that could be damaged using the pads of a two post and lifting on the pinch welds. To the topic, changing shocks, oil changes, and the like are low risk when done by another. The mechanic gets a little cash flow from doing that stuff with all my cars and I do the more patience demanding jobs myself. 27 years with him and about 15 years with the guy before him, long history with the shop. The value is in parsing out the work and maintaining a good relationship. And I was out in the bay checking the whole undercarriage while the oil drained. I have two med lift scissors lifts in my garage. I had it built in 1988, within four or five years before hobbyist lifts because popular. I built the garage with 8' ceilings. Hopefully a12" addition will be in the near future, but I will still feed them work. I came home happy, found nothing to fix and looking forward to polishing all that waffle aluminum and castings when snow comes. That's my reason for farming out a shock install, seed money. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsgun Posted August 8, 2019 Share Posted August 8, 2019 I've used a vice grip on the shock stud, works well when it's rounded off. I've been looking at Viking shocks. Adjustable up and down rates and rebuildable, for about $100 more than bilsteins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 On 8/7/2019 at 11:02 PM, 60FlatTop said: came home happy, found nothing to fix and looking forward to polishing all that waffle aluminum and castings when snow comes. That's my reason for farming out a shock install, seed money. Bernie, it’s all about making the right decisions. I figured I could put the shocks on so I did it. It took more than an hour on my lift. Matter of fact it took longer than Ill tell. A lot less time than putting in a new AC system! Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 On 8/7/2019 at 11:02 PM, 60FlatTop said: We did the oil change this afternoon. The reason for the four post lift was to avoid damage to the full belly pan and aluminum heat shields that could be damaged using the pads of a two post and lifting on the pinch welds. To the topic, changing shocks, oil changes, and the like are low risk when done by another. The mechanic gets a little cash flow from doing that stuff with all my cars and I do the more patience demanding jobs myself. 27 years with him and about 15 years with the guy before him, long history with the shop. The value is in parsing out the work and maintaining a good relationship. And I was out in the bay checking the whole undercarriage while the oil drained. I have two med lift scissors lifts in my garage. I had it built in 1988, within four or five years before hobbyist lifts because popular. I built the garage with 8' ceilings. Hopefully a12" addition will be in the near future, but I will still feed them work. I came home happy, found nothing to fix and looking forward to polishing all that waffle aluminum and castings when snow comes. That's my reason for farming out a shock install, seed money. Gotta be careful driving on those lifts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 7 hours ago, Turbinator said: Gotta be careful driving on those lifts This is a very nice lift for oil changes and under car work in a low ceiling garage. Only 20", but driving up the ramps can be quite disconcerting. And then there is the case where you just know ther could be consequences. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodayguy Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 So the mechanic (my old one, thankfully) installed the Bilsteins, love them!! $400 including an alignment. I’m fine with that. I know install would have taken me a whole weekend and then some. I pick and choose my DIY battles 😀 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 8 minutes ago, bodayguy said: I pick and choose my DIY battles 😀 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 You done good. True conversation: "How was the late model car braking seminar?" "Er, not so good." "Really" "Yeah, I still think I can do them myself." Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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