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Jim Cannon

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Everything posted by Jim Cannon

  1. I agree with Ed. Mr. G's is a great place to get specialty automotive fasteners: https://mrgusa.com/fasteners/ They are very helpful.
  2. It is not the angles. That's a red herring. It could be a bad center bearing that is worn. You have to pull the drive shaft to inspect it. Check the snap rings on the u-joints while you have it out.
  3. After you purchase a mirror to go on the passenger door, then you will then look at where to install it. If your car has the mirror on the driver's door and you match the location (so that both mirrors look the same from the outside, so the car looks nice) you may find that the mirror on the passenger side sits just outside the little vent window and the driver cannot really see it very well. When you look at where to mount it, you also want to have it not interfere with the vent window opening. Once it is installed, because the glass is flat, you will discover that even in the little bit of the mirror that the driver CAN see from the driver's seat, you cannot really see very much behind you. To improve that, you need to get a "stick on bubble mirror" that is the same diameter as the original flat mirror and stick it on that passenger side mirror. Even with that bubble, your view in the mirror will be limited. I mention all of this to help you decide if you really want to do all this work, time and money for not a very big benefit. I decided not to. 😐
  4. I am so glad you finally got the system working properly! Congratulations! I have had my '63 A/C blowing a "fog" out the center vent. Yes, it will blow 38 degrees while driving down the road.
  5. Fix any problems like that and your Miles/Gallon will probably double!! 😁
  6. The heater hot water valve on the ’63 Riviera is a one year only, one model only unit. Unfortunately these valves are known to stick, to get corroded inside and seize up. There are no aftermarket replacements available. NOS GM parts come on the market occasionally for a lot of money. So you mainly need to get your valve working again by soaking it with something like PB Blaster (off of the car, fill it up inside with the fluid, work the lever free with your fingers). The heater temperature control knob inside the car connects to the hot water valve with a heavy steel cable and a lever. WHEN THE HEATER VALVE FREEZES UP, AND YOU TRY TO TURN ON THE HEAT, YOU WILL BREAK THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL LEVER INSIDE THE DASH. It happens before you realize it. So many old Rivieras have broken temperature control levers; now you know why. You can prevent the broken lever problem by disconnecting the hot water valve from the temperature control cable and operate the valve manually twice each year (open the valve in the fall when you start to want heat, and close it in the spring when it is warm). If your hot water valve begins to leak, you will need to replace it. A used valve works. But if you’d rather have a new valve, you can use a modern vacuum-operated valve as a replacement. One valve that I found that works (I'm sure there are others) is a Murray (Factory Air) #74603 for about $15. It sits right on top of the metal housing that the original valve mounts to. I tie-wrapped it up to the heater control cable to keep it from wandering around, but that's probably not required. The valve installs with the original heater hoses with no modifications. It is a normally open valve. The vacuum to close it comes from a T into the vacuum hose that goes to the center nipple of the dash vacuum "motor" (diaphragm), right next to the big A/C STV valve. If you do not have A/C, so you don't have this dash vacuum motor diaphragm, you will need to find a similar valve that is manually operated, instead of vacuum, and turn it on and off under the hood with your fingers when you need heat.
  7. Look at your wiring diagram in the shop manual. Power is fed to the coil through a resistor wire built into the wiring harness. You need to bypass that or run a second new wire from a 12 volt power source that only has power when the key is in the Run position over to the coil. I can tell you how to do that on a '63, but I know that Buick changed the wiring setup in '64, so I do not know exactly how to bypass the resistor wire on your car. You do not need to change out the coil (unless you really want to). Just bypass the resistor wire in the power feed to the coil and you are good.
  8. At that throttle position, you are really opening the secondary throttle plates of both carburetors. Look there. The secondary bores (venturis) have a weighted plate above the throttle plate that swings open in response to air flowing down that half of the carb. Make sure they are free and don't sometimes bind or hang up as they open. There are also fuel passages and jets and such that feed fuel to the secondary venturis; make sure they are all clean and delivering like they are supposed to get a rebuild kit for each carb, take them apart, clean them, reassemble). It may only be one of the two carbs that has a problem. The primary carb has a choke and when the choke is not fully open, the secondary throttle plated are locked out from opening when you step on the throttle quite far. (It runs like a 2-barrel carb.) So if this problem happens sometimes and not other times, the choke not being fully open may be why. Look at that too. Good luck. Intermittent problems are no fun to troubleshoot.
  9. Tim- Get the car up on a lift and inspect all of the rubber fuel lines from the tank to the carburetor. Look for dark stains and dirt/dust accumulated that indicates fuel weeping out. Replace any suspect hoses. As Tom T. mentioned, replace the fuel vent line on the back/top of the gas tank. Replace the fuel filler cap. It has a gasket that goes bad with age. Fuel boils out of the carburetor when you have a hot engine. There are several very small passages and vents built into the carburetor that must be clear and open to prevent fuel from percolating (like a coffee maker). Take the carb off and clean it thoroughly, make sure all these little vents are open. The carb may need to be rebuilt. A stuck heat riser valve in the exhaust manifold on the passenger side will force a LOT of hot exhaust gas through the top of the engine and really cook the intake manifold and carburetor to be very hot. This really boils a lot of gas out of the carb and it can only go into the garage. Reach down and make sure this valve is free to move. The weight that is cast into the valve will pull it open when the coil spring gets hot, as long as the valve is free to swing. Do not lubricate it with oil; use a high-temp graphite lubricant designed for this purpose. I have a 1,000 CFM exhaust fan in the ceiling of my garage on a timer. I usually run if for an hour, but sometimes 2 hours, with the garage door open just 2 inches at the bottom. This draws in cool outside air to replace what the exhaust fan pulls out. This is to get the heat, the exhaust fumes, and the gasoline fumes out of the building before I close the door all the way. It is very cool that you still have the car that your family had since new. Don't get rid of it, figure out how to store it in a way that does not make you feel sick. If you have not already, can you please send me a photo of the data plate that is under the hood, on the firewall, above the power brake booster? I'd like to add it to my database. Send the close-up photo to: 63Rivvy (at) gmail (dot) com Thanks!
  10. Dennis- Those are "CV Joints", not "U Joints". The CV joint looks kind of like a double U-joint. There were no CV joints used on the '63 driveshaft at all, so someone has mated the '64 driveshaft in your car when they did the '64 engine and transmission; that's probably a good thing. That might also mean you have the '64 Rear Axle, because where the U-joint bolts on to the '63 is different from how the CV Joint of the '64-65 attaches.
  11. I have always found the cable sheath (not the center wire core) of the cable broken up at the top where it connects to the tilt wheel "head" (see 4th photo). It is a big job to get in to inspect it, so you should be prepared with a Plan B (like repair yours or have a replacement on hand to install). I can offer a temporary fix to keep your turn signals and brake lights working: 1. Remove the trim from under the steering column so that you can see the cable (1st picture - not the green horn wire but the other thing that looks like a wire is the cable). 2. Play with different wheel positions until both brake lights come on. You can also slide the cable housing up toward the wheel with your fingers. That will help. 3. When you have it where it works, gently tighten a large stainless steel hose clamp around the column and the cable (but not the horn wire) to keep the cable from sliding up and down the column when you actuate the turn signals (2nd picture). 4. Test the signals and the brakes in various turn signal positions. Make sure both brake lights come on when no turn signal is on. 5. Once you clamp the cable down, DO NOT change the tilt wheel position. In fact, you should remove the lever and go put it someplace safe until you replace the cable. If you tilt the wheel with this cable clamped down, you are really going to break something bad! 6. Put trim piece back on and start planning your repair/replace strategy. I tried the cable that is sold by Echler's for a Chevy: Chevelle Turn Signal Cable Assembly, For Cars With Tilt Steering Column, 1964-1966 Part #:: 50-211279-1. $57.99 I was able to make it work, but it is really too long. I had to drill holes in my steering column and remount the turn signal switch down the column about 1.5 inches. I do not recommend. The metal end that goes inside the column is also larger than the Riviera one, so I had to grind it down and also enlarge the opening (behind the trim piece - no one can see it) so that this larger metal piece would actually go up inside the column head. There are other cables from Hubbard's Impala Parts that I did not try (more $$$), so I don't know if they will work: https://www.impalaparts.com/6364TSSCF/ and this one: https://www.impalaparts.com/6364TSSCC/ You need to get measurements from them and see if they can be made to work. The center wire cable part of the one from Eckler's was too long. I had to rebend the wire shorter (and larger diameter) by bending it around a drill bit (3rd picture). Not that hard with some pliers. That's the end that slips over the post on the turn signal switch end. You will note that I had both metal ends of the old and new cable firmly attached to each other with a small screw/nut. The length of the center wire is critical when measured relative to the metal ENDS that fasten down to the column head and switch. You cannot see, but I had the metal clips at the other end of the cable locked together with a clamp and the wire loops locked together with a screw/nut. This is the only way the new cable will work like the old. Let us know how it goes, especially if you use one of the Impala cables.
  12. Your Temperature Control lever is broken. This is very common in 1963 cars, with or without A/C. You can swap out just the broken lever with another one from another control unit, even if that control unit is from a non-A/C car because this knob and lever is the same in A/C and non-AC cars. The stack of levers is held in with a pin. You gently drive the pin out, then swap out the broken piece and insert a new lever. Drive pin back in as you found it. You can also take the broken lever pieces out, reassemble them temporarily (just to get dimensions), and use it as a template to make a new lever out of some flat steel stock. It will require some cutting and bending and welding, but if you can fabricate something, it will be better than the original weak pot metal lever. They break when the heater valve sticks and you push on the Temp knob. The lever is up inside the dash where no one will see it, so the fact that it is fabricated steel can be your little secret. Hope this helps. PS - if you have not done so already, please send me a close-up photo of your data plate above the power brke booster unit (for my database). Thanks!
  13. Then the problem is a broken turn signal actuator cable that runs down from the top of the tilt column to the switch down on the column. Very common on a 1st gen. Riv with tilt wheel.
  14. I'd say, when pricing what you are willing to pay for the car, assume you will be rebuilding the engine and transmission. You probably will be.
  15. Thanks, Rodney. Yes, I looked there, did not find one. Found one at another source.
  16. Thanks, Craig! I found a switch. My old switch is shorted out internally. I will get the new one installed as soon as it arrives.
  17. That eBay listing is now GONE! Yay! Thanks for bringing this to our attention, Chris! We need to look out for each other.
  18. To troubleshoot the charging system, you need to also investigate the voltage regulator. That might be your problem. The diodes on the alternator can be bench tested. If you are not fluent in this, try to find an old-time automotive electrical shop to test and adjust things for you. A mechanical voltage regulator can have points cleaned with a point file and be adjusted to correct voltage. Or have a look an electronic voltage regulator.
  19. NOS or really nice used part. Just the switch, I don't need the key cylinder part. If you have one for sale, please contact me. 63Rivvy (at) gmail (dot) com Thanks!
  20. Or a really nice used one would be OK, if you know it came from a low-miles parts car. I do not need the key cylinder, just the switch. 1963 switch is that year only, which makes it harder. Thanks!
  21. If you have one for sale, please contact me. 63Rivvy (at) gmail (dot) com Thanks!
  22. OK, guys, I found the problem and fixed it. Thanks for the suggestions. Tom T. was correct. The grey wire was partly out of the connector that attaches to the flat wire. When I got in there and looked more carefully, I could see that this one wire connector (the crimped end) was sitting up higher than the others. I grabbed it with my needlenose pliers and pushed the wire down into the plastic end like the others and the tail lights now work. I was pretty sure that it was not a ground problem because the turn signals worked great. I guess with all of my work behind the driver side instrument panel, I tugged that grey wire out of the plastic connector a bit. (I swapped out the brake pedal bracket on this '63 with one from a '64, so that I could replace the hydraulic brake light switch with a mechanical one inside the car.) Onward!
  23. I am looking for ideas from people on this. I am almost done replacing my carpet and decided to test the turn signals, parking lights and headlights before final assembly. Sadly I discovered that I have no tail lights (and no light over license plate). I used a test light to confirm that the grey-colored tail light wire has power coming out of the headlight switch. (That was easy to do because the switch has not yet been installed.) With the same test light, I can confirm we have power in the "round grey wire" of the wiring harness, where it connects to the "flat wire" up under the dash (by the fuse box). Back in the trunk, though, there is no power on the end of the flat wire (where I have disconnected it from the "round wire" harness going back to the lights. Suggestions on where to look to fix this, and what to look for? Thanks!
  24. You could try to get an original harness out of a parts car. Carefully swap sections of harness from one car to the other. The content and routing of each wiring harness section is documented in the Shop Manual. That gives you a guide. You would have to totally strip the interior and engine compartment of both cars to get to everything. The source of your "something is hot" smell could be concentrated to one or two spots, like the fuse box (and wires going into and out of it) or the headlight switch. I would also look at the ignition switch and plug/wires connected to it. Or it could be in one of the main power feeds from the voltage regulator into the car. If you can identify the areas that others have hacked on the wiring and probably repaired it wrong, you could focus on just that section coming from a parts car. Then reuse the other sections of harness as is. A big job, for sure, but needs to be done.
  25. I did think if that. And I don't know the answer for sure but I think I can bolt it down tight enough. Buick did everything for a reason, so I am trying to understand why they did it this way. Possibly for ease of assembly. If they covered the seat track bolt holes with carpet, the assembly line guys would have a harder time finding them quickly to install the seats. I'm not under such time pressure.
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