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Jim Cannon

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Everything posted by Jim Cannon

  1. This is very cool, Tom. Very helpful. Do the trunk ends of the device all look the same over the 3 years? As I recall, the cardboard trim that goes over the release actuator is slightly larger to accommodate the vacuum can on cars with the remote trunk release.
  2. Jim Cannon

    Keys

    It is "square-ish"; it is an octagon.
  3. Or just get used to it and let it go. Mine comes and goes. It does not hurt anything. 😎
  4. Yes, this is what I did. And then I sprayed them all black to match the horn. You don't even notice that they're there. 😎
  5. Guys- I did not say you could tune the horn, I said you could adjust it. You are not tuning the tone. That is set by the dimensions of the horn. You are adjusting the point gap internally for the best sound tone and volume. If the points are too close together, the sound is weak. If the gap is too large, the sound is rough and harsh. Tom is right, you can also adjust for target current draw, too. I have found that clarity and sharpness of horn sound, one horn at a time, works best. Tom is correct, don't operate any horn for too long at a time. Adjust, blow, adjust
  6. Great! You can adjust each horn individually (disconnect the wires to the others) to get the best tone for it. Then they will blend together beautifully. 😎
  7. Jim Cannon

    64 Riv

    FB39931 was built 07C. I know of no 08 job for a '63 in 1963. FB89 was built 07B of 1962.
  8. Jim Cannon

    64 Riv

    Tom is correct. This is a very early '64. See the 07D in the upper left hand corner? That says the body was made during the 4th week of July, 1963. FB 700 is the 700th body built at Fisher Body for that model year. In 1963, they incremented that number just for the Rivieras (up to 40,000). I'm the '63 Riv guy, so I don't know about the '64s. While the 425 CI engine (the KW) was standard on the Riv in '64, I think that the 401 (KT) was an option. A '64 expert will have to chime in. The VIN stamped on the engine block should be compared to the VIN on the sta
  9. The stock '63 booster has a Y-fitting because they needed to store vacuum in the big metal can on the inner fender. The OPGI booster has vacuum storage built into it. So you can eliminate the stock storage can or you can install a metal T-fitting in the vacuum line going into the booster. You need to bench bleed a MC before you install it in the car.
  10. Guys, here is the trick to getting the booster push rod off of the brake pedal: Remove all mats and things from the driver's side floor. Have an assistant under the hood pull the booster away from the firewall as far as they can. You are inside the car. The brake pedal should press firmly against the floor. As your assistant slowly slides the booster toward their right (away from the engine) you slide the push rod eye off of the brake pedal pin. You and your assistant need to move at the same pace. If one gets ahead of the other, the eye jams on the pin. Reverse th
  11. Call Dewey and ask him how to diagnose. The hiss sounds like something in the booster failed. .
  12. Does the radio need to be on to hear this click sound? Is the SP in the torque converter actually moving when the switch activates? Can you tell? .
  13. I think this o-ring seal is only used on the '63. Call Dewey and ask him on the phone. .
  14. Have any of you guys that have worked on your A/C-heat system on your '63 Riviera made a color vacuum hose diagram? Something like in the shop manual but with the colors of each hose and where they go? I have been contacted by an ROA member looking for help with his '63 Riv. I don't have anything more than what's in the shop manual. Thanks!
  15. The A/C muffler was an early production add-on change to the '63 Riviera. The first models produced did not have it. Someone decided that the A/C was making too much noise. The muffler provides a volume into which the hot gas pulses can be smoothed out. Later GM A/C systems used a much smaller cylinder mounted to the side of the A6 compressor. The A/C will certainly work OK without it. The connections of the hose to the muffler on my car are screw clamps. Not as good of a seal as an o-ring, so a potential leak point. Better to just eliminate it.
  16. I have a 5 lb. Halon extinguisher on the floor behind the driver's seat. It is in a shallow box. It is not fastened down because I want to be able to grab it very quickly when needed. Why Halon? Because it will put out the fire without causing more damage to the car with a bunch of corrosive salts. Dry powder extinguishers are a real mess when used. Just don't use Halon in a confined space.
  17. Look at this recent thread about boosters:
  18. See these links: https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/auto-care/all-about-oil/ask-our-auto-experts/mixing-motor-oil-to-reach-the-right-zddp-level-for-classic-cars#:~:text=Mobil 1™ FS 0W,1™ synthetic motor oils. https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/media/project/wep/mobil/mobil-row-us-1/files/mobil-1-product-guide-rev-31.pdf?la=en&hash=E24FB7F9AD42AD6E84FF14F20C94A7396657AC09 Not all Mobil 1 oils are the same.
  19. This is what I use. FWIW. YMMV. 😎
  20. The fast idle screw will not get out of adjustment. Look for binding in the fast idle cam linkage and in the choke linkage in general. Normally when the engine starts, vacuum pulls the choke open and pulls you down off of the high-speed portion of the fast idle cam. It sounds like your choke mechanism, due to sitting for a while, is not pulling off properly after you start it and tap the gas. Look for sticky linkages or shafts. Look at the little piston inside the choke assembly for some junk making it stick.
  21. What I found on mine was that years of heat had cooked the grease in the starter solenoid into a rock hard mess. So the solenoid did not like to extend and retract well. I cleaned it all up and then lightly greased the plunger again. It all then worked as designed. HTH.
  22. What year car? I have had several 1st gen. glovebox latches become hard to open. It is something about their design. Don't use the key, it won't help. One thing that I tried that helped was to gently push in on the door, then press the button, then let go of the door. The button pushes the door out. With the dash pad off of a 1st gen, I think you can see some of the latch mechanism. Try gently working on that latch from above with a long thin screwdriver while you press in on the button.
  23. I have a copy of the '63 assembly manual. They are quite rare. I am not at home right now. I do not remember what they have in there about ride height. We have had this discussion on this forum in the past. I think we measured from the ground up to the trim that runs around the wheel openings, front and rear. See if you can find that thread. 😎
  24. NAPA says they have one: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHTS6625?partTypeName=Temperature+Sender+Switch&keywordInput=temperature+switch .
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