awk409ak

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About awk409ak

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  • Birthday 07/24/1950

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Bridgeville, DE
  • Interests:
    Golf, Pickle Ball, cars

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  1. Here's another site where they recommend Castol TransMax Dex/Merc ATF. They also mention good for older power steering units. https://www.thedrive.com/reviews/27911/best-transmission-fluids Art
  2. Hi all, Caught my attention on this. So thought I would jump in. Is this example of what to use? It says it is for older cars and mineral based https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/other-oils-fluids-fuel/automatic-transmission-fluids/dexron-mercon-atf.html Art
  3. Tom, Really looking for front and rear. Maybe if someone would be interested in a trade since these may be a set for 65 and they are black might be of value to someone. Thanks, Art
  4. Maybe I should first ask, is this a 64 seat belt buckle. Art
  5. I have a set of 64 seat belts in black. Like to find someone with them in the saddle color. Art
  6. (Fast forward to the mid-1950’s and the horsepower wars, plus the emergence of local dragstrips throughout the country. The racing sanctioning bodies often would allow internal engine modifications (camshaft, compression, etc.) but REQUIRE the use of the original carburetor(s). Thus the car manufacturers would offer twin 4-barrel setups with progressive linkage so that they could use carburetors THAT WERE TOO LARGE FOR NORMAL DRIVING. During normal street use, the engine would run only on the primary carb, and engage the secondary carb only under “spirited” street driving; BUT the larger carbs were present to provide sufficient airflow for engine modifications of larger camshafts, increased compression, etc. Street drivability with progressive linkage will never be as crisp as using solid linkage.) So quoting you from your article (see above), the carbs on our 425 dual quad setup are too large to run a solid linkage setup for street use or is it the manifold design? That makes some sense if it's the carbs. What are the cfm's of the stocks carbs? I ran dual Edelbrock Performer 500 or 600 cfm's with a Offenhauser high rise intake on my modified Chevy 409 with solid linkage. Went with the smaller cfm carbs so to not over carb it, and of course it was easier to setup as a solid linkage setup. Thanks, Art
  7. Ok, tried Jon's method too. It is a lot better. Cranking it for about 10-12 second (which is to me quite log), stopping and then pumping 3-4 times works pretty well. Thank, Jon for the info. Thanks everyone. Art
  8. Thanks 65 VerdeGS, Well I can't say I've had my 64 as long as you have (one year mid May) had your 65, but after posting the question and seeing the reply I did feel a little foolish, but oh well. It's not that it really bother me, but it does strain the battery with all the cranking. I read your post to CarbKing about solid or progressive. I also read some of Jon articles on his website. Now I'm not anywhere near an expert on this, but always thought running duals with solid was better for even distribution. Otherwise the front cylinder are starved for fuel. Now Jon writes this in his article, but then he said not with stock carbs. So my question is why a stock 425 dual quad setup cannot be setup with a solid linkage. I used to run my 409 Chevy with dual performance Edelbrocks (not stock) opening both carbs at same time. Just curious! Art
  9. Thanks everyone for you input. I'll try the working with it more. Some of it may be that you are used to getting in your daily driver EFI car and it starts right up. Thanks again, Art
  10. Hi All, I have a 64, 425, dual quad engine (Super Wildcat). I've noticed during the winter when the Riv has been sitting a while it becomes hard to start. I must pump the liven day light out of it and keep pumping as it begins to start. Once it has been running and turned off it restarts fine. Been thinking of adding a small electric pump between the tank and mechanical pump. Any thoughts. Art
  11. Kongaman is right. Behind the glove box box is the wholeeeeee works. There are vacuum tubes in this system, so yea get the whole thing. My interior is saddle too with dark brown dash, Guide-matic is dark brown to match dash. Art
  12. Hi, What Rinut stated is what I used. I used the adapter in the rear (not sure if it was .875 or 1") and the spacer up front. Did not need to remove the rivets on the front, because the spacer had the additional holes. I too have two of the 7 inch Buick road wheel, but right now I have a set of 17" aftermarket wheels and redline tires from DB tires.. Art
  13. Hi, I'm looking for a left side front and rear to replace mine. Both of mine have some flat spots. Thanks, Art
  14. Rivnut, I really appreciate the answers to my questions on authenticity. Maybe there should be a separate thread on all stuff related to Authenticity. So the judging is not terribly serious if I ever decide to attend a ROA event. Not like on corvettes.😀 Nothing against the corvettes. So is a 64 dash pad the same physically as a 65? I'm asking because I got a 64 pad from OPGI ( I know, I know, but choices are limited). Nice pad, not what I think is the correct color (saddle), but it had a small defect, so they are sending me a replacement. Come to find out they have a dark saddle pad, but they tell me it for a 65. So that is why the question. I thought the 64 and 65 were the same, but because I really cannot say I spent much time looking at a 65, I don't know for sure. Art