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Jim Cannon

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About Jim Cannon

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    '63 Riv Tech Advisor
  • Birthday January 30

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  • Location
    Young Harris, GA

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  1. That's good to hear! I dug around on the ACC website and they have a third carpet color option, #31 - Saddle. On the computer it looks like it is between Light Saddle and Medium Saddle. So I have requested a sample of that color, too. They don't suggest it as a color for the '63 Riv (I don't know why) but it's there. First I have to get this heater core back in. What a pain!
  2. Ray- I agree, that yellow fiberglass was compressed down to nothing in most places on my car, too. I'm sure it was not doing much. Dynamat is a good sound deadener, but it will not give you all of the thermal insulation you need. You need something over it before you put the carpet/jute on top. Everywhere I had the yellow fiberglass pad I am putting a layer of Dynapad, cut to exactly the same shape as the fiberglass pad. It is only 3/8" thick and is a very effective heat and sound insulator for its thickness.
  3. I have requested carpet samples from them, too. We will see how their Medium Saddle compares. Others have said that they did not think the quality of the ACC carpet was as good as Clark's. That concerned me.
  4. Tom- I agree, I don't want things too thick. The pad layers I found are each clearly factory die-cut pieces, not home-made stuff. So my goal is to replicate what was there, no more. In the front, there was jute over the tar paper, clearly cut to fit. No extra jute layer in the back, just the one glued to the carpet. Nothing under the back seat cushion. The fiberglass pad was thinner, and it was in front and back. I have taken lots of pictures of each piece. In the Buick Master Chassis Parts Book, Group 15.289, there is a part reference for an Insulator
  5. That would be great! Yes, I can wait a week. It does not say in your profile; where are you located? It sounds like I am a week or two behind you. I have the heater core out, but I don't have the new one in yet. And then I plan to paint the floor with POR-15 before the Dynamat, etc. What kind of pads did you find under your original carpet? Starting at the sheetmetal floor, I found a black tarpaper-like thin pad. Then I found a 1/2" thick jute pad in the front only (left/right). On top of that I found a fiberglass pad with a thin aluminum foil layer on top
  6. Ray- Your actual sample looks JUST LIKE MINE. It has a bit of a copper hue to it, compared to the carpets that Clark's has. I guess I will also go with the Medium Saddle, but I'm afraid it will make the whole interior look too dark. The Light Saddle will show soil a bit easier but make the car brighter inside. Thanks, Bill, for reminding me of this table. I have this same '63 Buick Trim Book. This points me toward the darker shade.
  7. Yes, I have samples from Clark's. I have been comparing but I am unsure of the match. I think I am going to use Light Saddle. Looking for the experience of others. I'll let you know.
  8. I am going to replace the carpet in my '63 Riv. I'm looking at the carpets from Clark's Corvair. They have a "Light Saddle" and a "Medium Saddle" carpet color. Does anyone here have any experience choosing between these two for your Riv with Saddle interior trim? I am 99% sure the carpet in my car is factory original (my Dad was the second owner). But it's hard to tell from a straight comparison. Thanks!
  9. I'm sure you are on he right track. Isn't this a great group? We all have so much experience to share, and do so very freely. I love that red on your car!
  10. Thanks, John! I kind of did the same thing. My bulbs arrived today but I am not in a position to start testing them for a bit. I just got the defective heater core out of the car this evening. What a job!!! I debated about Cool White but decided to get Warm White. I was afraid the Cool White would look too modern, be a bit harsh. I also looked at the COB style bulbs but decided not to get them. I will do the LED turn signals at some point, but my focus on this project was the interior bulbs while I have the dash apart for the heater core.
  11. Thanks, Bill! Good to know! I agree, putting an LED bulb in the trunk is the way to go. I'm not going to put a bulb in the ignition key light socket at all. I never used it. Tom, did you run into the problem with some of the LEDs listed in the table not fitting in the opening? Like the Glove Box and the Transmission Selector lights? I found some LEDs on the SuperBrightLED site that have 3 SMDs (surface mount diodes) facing straight out at you that I think will work well for the turn signal indicators, HOT/COLD lights, AMP light, etc. I'm going to try them
  12. I have my instrument panel and dash apart to replace the heater core and replace a few other parts. While it's all in pieces, I thought I would put some LED lights into the instrument panels and indicator lights. I started with the menus on the Super Bright LEDs website, the comprehensive bulb list in Section 10 of the Shop Manual, plus the list of bulbs from the Nov. 2017 Australian Region Riview. I'd like feedback, and maybe photos, from people who have used the Super Bright LED bulbs. Did you use Warm White (3000K), as suggested in the Aus. Riview? Or other color te
  13. Look in the catalog here for them: https://mrgusa.com/pdfs/60-62wsclip Sorry I cannot tell you the exact part number. These pages print to true size, so you can put one good clip over the pictures and match it up.
  14. No, this is not how this glass is set and sealed in the body. After the glass is out, clean the opening well. I had an automotive glass installer person come out to the car with their materials. They clean and prime the metal surface and the glass. Then they squeeze a polymer bead around the window opening and gently set the glass in it. This holds the glass in when it dries, and it seals the water out. No additional silicon or other sealant is used.
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