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Jim Cannon

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About Jim Cannon

  • Birthday January 30

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  1. No, no credit for not ordering a radio because radio was not included in the Base Price. There WAS a charge for the radio you did order. Most cars did have one. "Less Heater and Defroster" did produce a credit because those items WERE in the Base Price. I would have never even thought of asking to delete the heater/defroster and give me a $100 credit! I wonder what that control panel that mounts under the dash pad looked like? Two vent knobs and a courtesy light switch knob? Anyone ever seen one? 🤯
  2. My prior reply got lost... The current owner has the original blackwall tires and the original stock wheel covers in his garage from when he upgraded to these fancy tires and wire wheel covers. This car was bare bones. The data plate on the firewall has nothing at all on the ACC line. 🤣 The radio delete plate is kind of cool (and rare). Only 561 new '63 Rivieras were sold with radio delete. Even more amazing was that 63 new Rivieras were sold in the 1963 model year with the "Less Heater & Defrost" option (for a $98 credit on the car sticker price). Now that's a rare Riviera to be on the lookout for. They must have gone to Hawaii or Miami! I wonder what the Fisher Body data plate code was for "delete heater and defrost"? 😆 The car pictured here was sold new in Detroit and lived there all its life; no one would delete the heater in Detroit.
  3. Hey, now! Wait a minute! I have a Stant radiator cap on my car! And I would sell the car to anyone that walked in with 130k$ cash! 😆 These new badges annoy me. 😞 But it is nice that you can now list other clubs in your profile. 🙂 We can probably game the system by giving a thumbs-up to every post.
  4. It was a '65 Gran Sport. Paint code T, metallic Champagne Mist color. California car, includes original black plates. Frame-off restoration ~5 years ago. Numbers matching. Link to lots of pictures in the original Mecum listing: https://www.mecum.com/lots/FA0721-480256/1965-buick-riviera-gs/ The cowl vent grills are not painted body color as they should be. This makes me question what other details were overlooked in the restoration by someone that is not really knowledgable about the 1st Gen. Rivieras.
  5. Here's one. This car also has no tilt column (and no radio). A zero-options car.
  6. I have a lot of interesting statistics for the 1963 Model Year. New cars left the factory with the following options installed: Front seat belts: 33% Driver side remote mirror: 80% Tilt steering column: 54% Power windows (not power vents): 73% Power windows and power vents: 15% A/C: 50% (the most expensive option available -- adding about 10% to the car's $4,333 Base Price) Some options could also be added by the Dealer, some could not. In the 1963 model year, Ford advertised that their Driver Side Mirror (not remote control) was included as standard equipment in the Base Price of their Thunderbird. This was an obvious dig at Buick because the T-bird was aimed at the same market as the Riviera (personal luxury coupe) and Buick offered it as an option at extra cost. Buick's remote side mirror list price was $11.88, about $100 in today's money.
  7. Now that you already have the mirror installed, try adding a stick-on bubble mirror that matches the diameter of he original flat round mirror (look at a truck stop for them). The mirror is mainly to help you when changing lanes toward the right, so it will help you see if there is a car over there, without using it for detailed viewing.
  8. Tom and Art are correct, the driver side mirror position changed in 1962. I have seen the side mirror in the original "further back" position as late as week 12A in December and the earliest I have seen it installed "forward" is in week 12C. So the change occurred somewhere in that time frame. I have not found a mention of this change in the '63 Buick Dealer Service Bulletins (so if you know where it is, please reply). The forward position was kept on all '64 and '65 Rivs. The mirror was moved forward to a spot where you look at it through the vent window, because when you look at it through the full-size door glass window, it is at a very awkward angle. You could barely see anything in it, due to the sharp angle you were looking at it. Moving it forward helps with the angle, but now you are looking at it through the vent window, which is kind of in the way. Then the same is true if you put it on the passenger side and match the position on the door. I moved my driver's seat tracks back 2 inches and I drive with the seat fully back (I'm 6'5" tall) so the angle looking at the mirror in the door is not bad for me. It would be really bad for anyone that drove with the seat forward and the seat tracks installed in the original location.
  9. I agree with Ed. Mr. G's is a great place to get specialty automotive fasteners: https://mrgusa.com/fasteners/ They are very helpful.
  10. It is not the angles. That's a red herring. It could be a bad center bearing that is worn. You have to pull the drive shaft to inspect it. Check the snap rings on the u-joints while you have it out.
  11. After you purchase a mirror to go on the passenger door, then you will then look at where to install it. If your car has the mirror on the driver's door and you match the location (so that both mirrors look the same from the outside, so the car looks nice) you may find that the mirror on the passenger side sits just outside the little vent window and the driver cannot really see it very well. When you look at where to mount it, you also want to have it not interfere with the vent window opening. Once it is installed, because the glass is flat, you will discover that even in the little bit of the mirror that the driver CAN see from the driver's seat, you cannot really see very much behind you. To improve that, you need to get a "stick on bubble mirror" that is the same diameter as the original flat mirror and stick it on that passenger side mirror. Even with that bubble, your view in the mirror will be limited. I mention all of this to help you decide if you really want to do all this work, time and money for not a very big benefit. I decided not to. 😐
  12. I am so glad you finally got the system working properly! Congratulations! I have had my '63 A/C blowing a "fog" out the center vent. Yes, it will blow 38 degrees while driving down the road.
  13. Fix any problems like that and your Miles/Gallon will probably double!! 😁
  14. The heater hot water valve on the ’63 Riviera is a one year only, one model only unit. Unfortunately these valves are known to stick, to get corroded inside and seize up. There are no aftermarket replacements available. NOS GM parts come on the market occasionally for a lot of money. So you mainly need to get your valve working again by soaking it with something like PB Blaster (off of the car, fill it up inside with the fluid, work the lever free with your fingers). The heater temperature control knob inside the car connects to the hot water valve with a heavy steel cable and a lever. WHEN THE HEATER VALVE FREEZES UP, AND YOU TRY TO TURN ON THE HEAT, YOU WILL BREAK THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL LEVER INSIDE THE DASH. It happens before you realize it. So many old Rivieras have broken temperature control levers; now you know why. You can prevent the broken lever problem by disconnecting the hot water valve from the temperature control cable and operate the valve manually twice each year (open the valve in the fall when you start to want heat, and close it in the spring when it is warm). If your hot water valve begins to leak, you will need to replace it. A used valve works. But if you’d rather have a new valve, you can use a modern vacuum-operated valve as a replacement. One valve that I found that works (I'm sure there are others) is a Murray (Factory Air) #74603 for about $15. It sits right on top of the metal housing that the original valve mounts to. I tie-wrapped it up to the heater control cable to keep it from wandering around, but that's probably not required. The valve installs with the original heater hoses with no modifications. It is a normally open valve. The vacuum to close it comes from a T into the vacuum hose that goes to the center nipple of the dash vacuum "motor" (diaphragm), right next to the big A/C STV valve. If you do not have A/C, so you don't have this dash vacuum motor diaphragm, you will need to find a similar valve that is manually operated, instead of vacuum, and turn it on and off under the hood with your fingers when you need heat.
  15. Look at your wiring diagram in the shop manual. Power is fed to the coil through a resistor wire built into the wiring harness. You need to bypass that or run a second new wire from a 12 volt power source that only has power when the key is in the Run position over to the coil. I can tell you how to do that on a '63, but I know that Buick changed the wiring setup in '64, so I do not know exactly how to bypass the resistor wire on your car. You do not need to change out the coil (unless you really want to). Just bypass the resistor wire in the power feed to the coil and you are good.
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