Jim Cannon

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About Jim Cannon

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    '63 Riv Tech Advisor

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  • Location:
    Young Harris, GA


  • Biography
    I learned to sail when I was 10 years old. I am an Eagle Scout. I have always had The Knack for repairing things mechanical and electrical. I learned Spanish on the streets of Miami from the children of Cuban refugees. I can tread water for hours with my hands and feet bound. I am a recognized expert on the 1963 Buick Riviera. My hands work independently of each other, allowing me to do two things at once with them (such as remove or tighten nuts or bolts).

    I once constructed a "bicycle built for two" with the riders sitting back-to-back, just to show it could be done. I spent a week traveling up the Amazon River by boat. I swim with piranha. In my spare time I build model bridges with wooden match sticks. I love to teach science to Second Graders, and tutor Physics and Calculus to High School students. I played golf twice and decided it was not very challenging, so I dropped it. I cook award-winning Churrasco.

    I collect music from the 20s and 30s on original 78 rpm records and play it on my three vintage Victrolas. I don't perspire. I can throw playing cards across the room with deadly accuracy. I was the 11th caller, and I could name that tune. Jimmy Carter and I built houses together all over the world. I successfully kept hummingbirds in my aviary; zoos consult me on their care.

    I restored my first horseless carriage when I was 14 years old, something that I enjoy to this day. I learned to drive a car with a clutch on a 1929 Ford; the car sits in my garage to this day. I'm completely ambidextrous, which allows me to paint a house in half the time. Despite rumors to the contrary, I have never infiltrated a secret Russian air base outside Moscow. I hunt quail on the pampas of Uruguay. My work was instrumental in understanding how much damage had occurred during the accident at Three Mile Island. To entertain myself, I recite Burns aloud. I am no longer welcome at the Palms in Vegas.

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  1. Hi, Ed! I had an error in my spreadsheet that was adding the cost of the options twice by accident. I also found where I had accidentally included some options that I did not have on my car. (This was an old spreadsheet and I don't know why I did that.) When I found that, based on your work, and fixed it, I come up with a price in 2020 dollars of $48,169 including destination charge for my car as it sits. I will go edit my original post.
  2. Ed- I collected prices of options from various sources over the years for the '63 Riv. I put them in a spreadsheet and applied a CPI multiplier of 8.434 to go from November 1962 and today. I do not have an original car sticker for my car. I just put into the spreadsheet the options my car has now.
  3. This is cool. I did something similar for my specific '63 Riviera with all of the options that are on it, bringing the price up to the present. My accessories add almost $1,500 $1,250 to the Base Price of $4.333. That would make my car, priced in 2020 dollars, be $61,500 $48,169, including the destination charge. The A/C option alone added 10% to the Base Price. Can you imagine today having them add 10% to the car's cost for A/C? The fancy AM/FM radio in my Riv (cutting edge at the time) was a $3,600 $1,500 option in today's money.
  4. Make 6 flat metal plates with 2 holes in each, as many inches apart as you want to move the seat. I moved mine 2 inches. Mount the plate to the car with one set of holes into original mounting points. Mount the seat to the plate with the other holes. Use some strong steel plates, thick steel, and strong bolts/nuts.
  5. Make 6 flat metal plates with 2 holes in each, as many inches apart as you want to move the seat. I moved mine 2 inches. Mount the plate to the car with one set of holes into original mounting points. Mount the seat to the plate with the other holes. Use some strong steel plates, thick steel, and strong bolts/nuts.
  6. Dave did the HEI conversion for me on my '63 Riv. It is amazing! You give him the advance curve you want and he will also get that programmed into the advance for you.I really notice it on a cold start.The HEI really fires the lean mixture. I did not know he was still doing the conversions.
  7. It is being held in by 2 wire bales. The bales are held in with a screw at each end. See photos. One wire piece is straight across and the other has 2 u-shaped bends in it to go around the core inlet/outlet. One you remove them, force it out.
  8. I agree. Probably not the switch on the dash inside the car. There is a switch built inside the wiper motor that fails more often than the switch inside the car. The switch provides grounds to the wiper motor. You can test switch function with a meter.
  9. They help direct more of the air entering the cowl vents down into the vents inside the car on the kick panels down by your feet. They are little air seals. If you leave them out, you will get less air in the car down by your feet.
  10. The 1965 Dealer Service Bulletin on this topic has the steps to remove the heater core from the inside of the car, not from the engine side. It is intended to be for all 3 years (1963-65). It's a big job. I sell the '63 and '64 Dealer Service Bulletins on CD for $10 each and the '65 for $12 (more files, required 2 CDs). If I mail them to you, it is $8 for postage (express mail) -- one postage charge for as many CDs as you want. I do have an option where I send the files to you in a big ZIP file (through an online file transfer service) if you prefer and can handle the large file. That saves on postage. But a bit of work for you.
  11. What year car? Are you working from the Buick Dealer Service Bulletin that Buick put out in 1965 for all first-gen Rivieras? It has step by step instructions. PM sent.
  12. Welcome! How about adding a general location to your profile? You never know, there may be an ROA member near you with experience to share.
  13. The Post Office has bumped the postage up now to $7.75 for US destinations. Email me.
  14. Check this out: https://www.lectriclimited.com/temperature-sending-unit-lead-repair-kit-106367
  15. I am talking about original parts. For your reproduction actuators, I'd say you should plug the line that goes to the center port of the actuator and connect the line that goes to the outside port, with a T-fitting, to both the inner and outer ports of the new actuator. You will either get air out the dash or on the floor, never mixed (out both places) with this reproduction actuator. If you want original function, get an original actuator.