Jim Cannon

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About Jim Cannon

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    '63 Riv Tech Advisor

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Young Harris, GA

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  • Biography
    I learned to sail when I was 10 years old. I am an Eagle Scout. I have always had The Knack for repairing things mechanical and electrical. I learned Spanish on the streets of Miami from the children of Cuban refugees. I can tread water for hours with my hands and feet bound. I am a recognized expert on the 1963 Buick Riviera. My hands work independently of each other, allowing me to do two things at once with them (such as remove or tighten nuts or bolts).

    I once constructed a "bicycle built for two" with the riders sitting back-to-back, just to show it could be done. I spent a week traveling up the Amazon River by boat. I swim with piranha. In my spare time I build model bridges with wooden match sticks. I love to teach science to Second Graders, and tutor Physics and Calculus to High School students. I played golf twice and decided it was not very challenging, so I dropped it. I cook award-winning Churrasco.

    I collect music from the 20s and 30s on original 78 rpm records and play it on my three vintage Victrolas. I don't perspire. I can throw playing cards across the room with deadly accuracy. I was the 11th caller, and I could name that tune. Jimmy Carter and I built houses together all over the world. I successfully kept hummingbirds in my aviary; zoos consult me on their care.

    I restored my first horseless carriage when I was 14 years old, something that I enjoy to this day. I learned to drive a car with a clutch on a 1929 Ford; the car sits in my garage to this day. I'm completely ambidextrous, which allows me to paint a house in half the time. Despite rumors to the contrary, I have never infiltrated a secret Russian air base outside Moscow. I hunt quail on the pampas of Uruguay. My work was instrumental in understanding how much damage had occurred during the accident at Three Mile Island. To entertain myself, I recite Burns aloud. I am no longer welcome at the Palms in Vegas.

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  1. Does this vehicle have A/C? If no A/C, then no fuel return line and no "Riviera rattle".
  2. Does anyone have a source for this relay box or equivalent in the USA? I suppose I can order one from Australia and pay shipping, but a source closer to us would be easier. Thanks.
  3. The '64 engine is setup differently from the '61-'63 because the earlier engines had Dynaflow and the '64 was the first year of the 3-speed automatic transmission. Look at the timing curves in the shop manuals for the '64 and the '63. The '64 dual quad engine is a lot like the '63. Look at the cam specs.
  4. Yes, it does go through the frame. Do a quick search in the Shop Manual. I think the clamp that holds the hose down is accessible from the engine compartment. It has been several years since I did it, but I know I did not remove the shock or the spring.
  5. This is a very easy job. Do it from under the car. Lift the front of the car up as much as you can to have room to work. If possible, get fuel tank level down below 1/4 tank, so that fuel does not run out when you remove the fuel line. Otherwise be ready with a cap to plug up the 5/16" fuel line. While under the car, replace the rubber fuel line from gas tank pipe (under passenger door hinge at frame) to fuel pump. Use old hose to pull string through frame. Use string to pull new hose through frame. Replace rubber fuel hose from fuel pump to fuel filter. Route it away from the fan belts. It is possible that the fuel pump cam will have stopped at the "up position". The arm of the fuel pump hits it. If so, bump the engine over with the starter to a spot where the cam is down. This makes the install so much easier (you are not fighting the spring in the fuel pump). If the new fuel pump has a slot for one of the mounting bolts, start with that bolt in the block a few threads, slide the pump under the bolt head, then gently work the other bolt into the block and tighten both slowly, alternating bolts.
  6. Of course you can do that. I converted my original clock to quartz many years ago and it has run flawlessly for years with no maintenance, keeping perfect time. The electro-mechanical style clocks are just a pain. YMMV.
  7. A point of clarification here: The '63 vacuum advance hose is connected to "ported vacuum" on the carb. And they call for 12* BTDC. Later years with a single 4 BBL carb call for much less initial advance, BUT they also have the vacuum advance connected to non-ported vacuum on the carb. I don't know where they get the vacuum advance signal from for the dual 4 BBL setup. If they are using 12* BTDC, it MIGHT be from ported vacuum. I'm a '63 expert, not a later years dual quad expert. YMMV.
  8. Getting the clock out does not need to be such a chore to be avoided. First of all, you can remove the 2 large bezels to the left and right of the clock (surrounding the speedometer and the idiot lights). Remove small allen set screw on bottom. This gives better access to the clock bezel. A plastic spray can cap will slip over the clock bezel, to help you get a better grip on the clock. Push in on the cap and turn the clock anti-clockwise about 1/8th of a turn. If it really will not turn, you need to remove the dash pad. Then you can coax the clock body to turn. When you go to reinstall, put a light film of grease on the 2 spring clips inside the instrument panel, where the clock pins slide in and lock. When you first install, turn the clock in and out multiple times to spread the grease out.
  9. Take the clock to a proper clock shop for cleaning and lubrication. They can also adjust to correct speed. They have an instrument that they place it on that counts the seconds.
  10. This is a good place to start a new thread, with a subject line matches the new question. You may get more replies (but it's going to be hard to get better replies than those from Tom M.) Buick published a troubleshooting guide for the '65 headlights in the Dealer Service Bulletins. I know they made a mid-model year change to the wiring, and there are instructions on how to make that change to an earlier car. I sell the '65 Buick Dealer Service Bulletins on 2 CDs for $12 + $6.50 postage, if you want them. Lots of good stuff in there. E-mail me at 63Rivvy (at) gmail (dot) com if you want a set.
  11. True-- Add a simple signature line.
  12. Cool! How about adding your first name and some rough location to your forum profile? You may have Forum Members that live near you. That can be very helpful. I travel all over the SE United States. I have been known to go out of my way to go meet up with someone and see a car. What else have I got to do? 8-)
  13. Jim Cannon

    64 rivi charging issues

    It's all in the shop manual.
  14. Jim Cannon

    64 rivi charging issues

    If your car still has an original mechanical style voltage regulator in it, I would recommend you try to find a new, modern, high-quality electronic VR. Be prepared to pay $50+ for a good one. They fit a wide range of GM vehicles, so that makes them easier to find (not originally used in '63, but if you can find one, it will work. The original style mechanical VR has the cover held on with 2 screws. You remove the cover to adjust the points. The electronic VR has the cover held on with 2 small rivets. The cover is not as tall (because it does not need to be). I drilled the rivets out of my electronic VR and used the original screws to install the original VR cover on the electronic unit. Now, when you look at it, you'd never guess it was electronic. There are test procedures and adjustment procedures for the original system in the shop manual. That's your best guide.
  15. As already mentioned, it is to prevent cross-fire between that one wire and any of he other 3 wires in the holder. Look in the shop manual for proper wire routing and which wire goes in which position of the clip. The original lengths of the 8 wires are documented in the 1963 Master Parts Book, they are probably also listed in later editions. I get wire sets that are "cut to fit" and cut them to those lengths.