Jim Cannon

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About Jim Cannon

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Young Harris, GA

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  • Biography
    I learned to sail when I was 10 years old. I am an Eagle Scout. I have always had The Knack for repairing things mechanical and electrical. I learned Spanish on the streets of Miami from the children of Cuban refugees. I can tread water for hours with my hands and feet bound. I am a recognized expert on the 1963 Buick Riviera. My hands work independently of each other, allowing me to do two things at once with them (such as remove or tighten nuts or bolts).

    I once constructed a "bicycle built for two" with the riders sitting back-to-back, just to show it could be done. I spent a week traveling up the Amazon River by boat. I swim with piranha. In my spare time I build model bridges with wooden match sticks. I love to teach science to Second Graders, and tutor Physics and Calculus to High School students. I played golf twice and decided it was not very challenging, so I dropped it. I cook award-winning Churrasco.

    I collect music from the 20s and 30s on original 78 rpm records and play it on my three vintage Victrolas. I don't perspire. I can throw playing cards across the room with deadly accuracy. I was the 11th caller, and I could name that tune. Jimmy Carter and I built houses together all over the world. I successfully kept hummingbirds in my aviary; zoos consult me on their care.

    I restored my first horseless carriage when I was 14 years old, something that I enjoy to this day. I learned to drive a car with a clutch on a 1929 Ford; the car sits in my garage to this day. I'm completely ambidextrous, which allows me to paint a house in half the time. Despite rumors to the contrary, I have never infiltrated a secret Russian air base outside Moscow. I hunt quail on the pampas of Uruguay. My work was instrumental in understanding how much damage had occurred during the accident at Three Mile Island. To entertain myself, I recite Burns aloud. I am no longer welcome at the Palms in Vegas.

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  1. The wiper switch is behind the knob just below the radio, to the right of the headlight switch knob. Before tearing into that, I suspect the wiper motor. Run this quick test: Start the engine. turn on the wiper switch. Get out of the car and "help" the wiper arms up from their parked position. If the wipers start to run, the motor has a bad switch contact inside it.
  2. Did this just suddenly happen? Or has the car been this way a long time? The wiper motor runs by getting a ground from the wiper switch inside the car. See shop manual. You can do some testing while the motor is on the car. See if you can start your car while it is in Drive (BE CAREFUL!!!). I you can, then the Neutral Safety Switch is messed up. This is also the switch that turns your backup lights on. Have you checked the bulbs n the backup lights to see if they are good?
  3. Remove the dash pad and work on it from above. A drop of oil can really help. Try gently pressing in on the door as you press the lock button. This takes some of the pressure off of the latch so that pressing the button will retract it.
  4. The wiper arm can be removed from the drive shaft coming out of the cowl and then repositioned to another spot on the windshield. Do you think that will help? To move the whole arm to a lower angle on the glass? The drive shaft has very fine serrations on it that match to fine grooves inside the arm. You can gently slide the arm up and slide it back down in the next lower spot on the drive shaft. When they are wiping, do you think the arms swing too far up and to the side? There might be something about this in the shop manual; I don't remember...
  5. The throttle return spring connects to it. Your spring is there, hanging down from the throttle mechanism, but the end is broken off. HTH.
  6. A short note to remind newcomers to this Forum and new Riviera owners that I have scans of the original Buick Dealer Service Bulletins for the '63, '64 and '65 Buicks for sale on CD for $10 for '63 and '64, $12 for the '65 (requires 2 CDs), plus my actual postage cost to get it to you. In the USA, Priority Mail is $7.35 right now. Overseas postage is more. I have alternate delivery options to overseas buyers; contact me for details. The scans are a series of PDF files, organized into Groups the way Buick organized them. I also have the '63 Buick Master Chassis Parts Book scanned on CD for $10+postage. It includes many drawings of the cars with part group number references. This CD is also a series of PDF files organized into Groups the way Buick organized them. This CD is "searchable" across all of the PDFs on the disc (which is handy when you are not quite sure where to look for a part). I can mail up to 4 CDs in one mailer for the Priority Mail flat rate, if you want several CDs. This cuts down on the average postage per CD. I'm not out to make a killing off of these, I offer them as a service to 1st Gen. Riv owners. I'm mainly recovering my cost of materials. I've sold a few dozen in the past 10 years and everyone has been pleased. Email me at 63Rivvy (at) gmail (dot) com and let me know what you need. Payment can be with PayPal, personal check or cash.
  7. I agree with this 100%. The old, original, worn rubber track bar bushings let the rear of the car sway around too much at higher speed, when changing lanes, and when cornering. Put new polygraphite bushings in there and it really tightens up the handling! https://p-s-t.com/i-23160475-polygraphite-rear-track-bar-bushing-set.html#!year%3D1965||make%3DBUICK||model%3DRIVIERA Note: This supplier lists these bushings for the '65 Riviera but not for the '63. Ignore that. They are the same! The new ones go right in. The hard part is getting the old bushings out. You can press them out, if you have a press. You can cut them out with an air chisel, if you have one. You can cut the old bushing outer metal shell with a hacksaw. Whatever method you use, don't cut into or damage the bushing surface of the track bar.
  8. If you do this job yourself, be sure to support the car in the back with jack stands under the rear axle. Do not support the back of the car with jack stands under the frame and let the rear axle hang down. The rear shocks limit how far the rear axle comes down and when you remove the shocks, the axle will keep coming down. It can mess things up back there, and possibly hurt you if you are not expecting the axle to fall that far.
  9. Yes. And if you come east on US 64, I am 5 miles south of Hayesville, NC, a short detour, if you want a break. A beautiful drive. My friend drove his "new" '64 Riv from San Diego to Houston about 10 years ago.The seller said the car was ready to go, but before he could leave San Diego, he had to rebuild the carb. The engine would barely run and it was super rich. His water pump failed in San Antonio. So check it out before hitting the road.
  10. Yes, a oood write up in the factory shop manual, in he Accessory section.
  11. Ed- This is the part that was reported previously: https://www.ecklerschevelle.com/chevelle-turn-signal-cable-assembly-for-cars-with-tilt-steering-column-1964-1966.html I have not purchased one the check if it works. HAS ANYONE ELSE? Please report experience.
  12. You are correct, R-12 is readily available today at a reasonable price. The problem ends up being able to find a shop willing to work on a car with R-12. They don't want to touch it. They got rid of their R-12 equipment long ago. They don't want to risk contaminating their R-134a equipment with some R-12. Once you do that, you have a mess and you have to pay a specialty company to take the mixed gases and separate them (for many $$$'s). So if you are comfortable working on your own A/C, the supply of R-12 is there and it is hard to justify going to the less-efficient R-134a. Get the A/C service tools you need, like a vacuum pump and some gauges. If you need to go to a shop to have your work done, they will probably insist that you change over to R-134a.
  13. Charging until you don't see bubbles in the sight glass is a bad idea. You can over charge doing that. The sight glass is good for a quick visual check of the system, but is not intended to determine if you have the correct charge. Use the gauges and the pressures published in the shop manual. It is easy to overcharge. Another key to good cooling is a good condenser in front of the radiator. If the original condenser is not cooling the hot gas back down to a cool liquid, you will not get good cooling inside the car. Put a box fan blowing on high speed in front of the car's front grill, blowing into the engine. Use your fingers to see how hot the outlet tube is coming off of the condenser, going into the filter-drier. If it is almost too hot to grip the pipe between thumb and first finger, the condenser is not doing its job. I replaced my 50 year old condenser and stayed with R-12. The amount of oil lost with the freon when it leaks out at the compressor seal is trivial. You should not attempt to try to replace it or you will overload the system with oil. Don't worry about it. Oil is only added when a component is replaced.
  14. Make sure that your condensate drain lines are both open and that condensate is coming out of both of them. If not, you accumulate a lot of water in the evaporator box and trap that humidity into the car. Get under the car while the A/C is running and look from water dripping from both drain lines (under the fan box, behind the right front wheel, but inboard a bit). It is impossible to say with certainty if you have under charge or over charge from the information given. You must read pressures under the hood while the engine is running and he A/C is on high fan speed and in the maximum cooling position. But I can guess. These systems tend to leak slowly. They did this when they were new. Freon was cheap and topping up each spring was part of routine maintenance. This is before they knew about the hole in the ozone layer. So, if I had to guess, I'd say that your system is low unless you have added freon to the system lately. The fact that you are getting any cooling at all is a good sign. When freon is low in a system, it is common for the evaporator core to freeze up. This is counterintuitive, but that's the way it works. When the evaporator core freezes up, you seriously lose cooling capacity, and you trap a lot of water (in the form of ice) in the evaporator box. Later when you slow down, this ice melts and put a lot of moisture in the air coming out of the vents, hence the water on the vents. Don't just add freon. Use gauges and put in the correct amount.