rexcrews

Thanks, guys. You have helped a lot. Rex

Guys, May I appeal to your knowledge about a brake booster fitment question. I have a '64 Riviera and a '63 Invicta, and the booster on my '63 Invicta is failing. I thought the booster would be identical to my Riviera, but the vacuum lines on the '63 attach to the top of the can in a Y sort of fitting; on the Riviera, the lines are on the front of the can. Are these booster interchangeable? Most sources I have found list 1961-2 and 1964-6, but leave out the '62 models. I am also guessing, perhaps incorrectly, that the Rivera booster is the same as other full-size Buicks for '63-'64. Is it possible that an early '63 car would have a '62 style booster? I am just confused and want to make sure my '63 has the right booster. Thanks! Rex

thanks for this answer. It sounds okay on the interstate at 50 -80, but at lower speeds, it sounds like you're stuck in low gear and the engine is torquing more than you're moving. This is, I think, a newer Hayden fan clutch for a heavy duty application. This is also a thermal clutch with a little thermostat in the center. I appreciate the help! Rex

Fellow Members, You all were such help with previous posts about door skin removal! Thanks so much. I now have a question about the fan clutch on my '64 Super Wildcat. It makes a roaring sound at low speeds but seems okay at higher speeds. The fan clutch was installed at some point in the past but it looks brand new and is a larger heavy duty type. I am wondering if there are recommendations out there for replacement that will stop this noise. The clutch is tightish, but will spin about 3/4 of a revolution when cold. But it has been making this sound since I purchased the car last summer, so weather does not seem to affect it. Thanks! Rex

Dear Tom, Thanks for this thoughtful and helpful reply. I have a '63 Invicta wagon and spent a long time figuring the system out on that car before getting things right, and now the Riviera is just enough different to drive me crazy! Then there is the console. Ha! Your explanation of the cable system is helpful. There is no resistance on the heater control lever, so both the water cable and the hot air door cable must be disconnected somewhere, at the control or maybe the adjusters? Will have to see what's going on there. I feel that someone changed things to disable the heater controls because the car was in a climate that would only use a/c. Will figure it out eventually, I hope! Thanks! Rex

Fellow Riv Enthusiasts, I am looking for a little help with the cable routing for the heat system on my '64 Riv with heat and a/c. Now when I turn on the heat, the water cable is not moving and it does not feel like the air is diverting down into the cabin, but it does blow through defrost when I turn that on. I cannot find a diagram of the bowden cable routing in my '64 manual. Is there a diagram out there that shows the routing of the these cables? I know on regular '63 Buicks, the temp joinged cables open both the a door and the water valve. There is no air coming out of the a/c vents when I turn the heat on, but when I turn the air to recirculate, air does blow out of the a/c vents. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks, Rex

Dear Larry, Thanks! I have emailed you with some further questions.

Dear Group, I am seriously considering the purchase of a '46-48 Continental, and I would like to know the location of the paint and trim codes for these cars, so that I can verify authenticity. I would also like to know if all of these were painted body color on the cowl and firewall. Some I have seen are painted that way and others are painted black under the hood. I am trying to educate myself a bit, and I knew this would be the place to turn. I would also appreciate knowing what especially to look for in terms of typical problems or weak areas on these cars. Thanks in advance for your help. Rex

Thanks for your reply on the lack of Roadmaster scripts. I had a '53 Roadmaster, and it too had no Roadmaster scripts on it except for medallion in the bumper. I just find it odd that it says "Dynaflow" in three places on the car but does not indicate the model aside from the portholes. Best, Rex

Gentlemen and Ladies, I have a question regarding the placement of the Roadmaster script on the 1949 76-R. The vast majority of these hardtops I have seen have no Roadmaster script on the front fenders; however, it appears in some illustrations of the period, and I have seen the scripts on at least one car. Can anyone tell me when the scripts appeared and/or disappeared on these cars? And, why do all the other Roadmaster models have scripts? Did they imagine this car was so innovative that it needed no model designation? Thanks, Rex

Hi, I am looking for a nice decklid molding for my '63 98. I refer to the long potmetal trim that fits just below the decklid. I also need a good rear 98 script and decklid ornament. If anyone can help, please contact me directly. Thanks, Rex rexcrews@bellsouth.net

Greetings! I am trying to find out how the seat bottoms should be sewn on a '57 Caballero wagon with the cloth and vinyl option. I have seen a car with the copper cloth and vinyl interior. The seat bottoms are done entirely in cloth, but there is a copper bead marking out the bolster area about three-quarters from the edge of the seat. However, the bolster is not finished in vinyl but more orange fabric. I would appreciate hearing from someone if this is correct or if someone can point me to a photo of a correct interior for comparison. Thanks so much, Rex Crews Durham NC