1969 Chevelle SS 396 Convert

[caddyshack]

Our family has a '69 SS Chevelle low mileage (23K) auto that was purchased new in late 1968 and would like to know what a realistic value might be in todays market. Many posts on this forum have asked similar questions and we know that condition is everything. It has been stored many years and tires, hoses, fluids, etc. have been maintained. It does not get driven as much as it should, but brakes and everything mechanical sound and operate just fine. Any comments good or bad are welcome. Just trying to get a feel on how desirable this one is. 

Thanks 

[Steve Moskowitz]

Very desirable!  If you want to contact me at National HQ.  I will give you values from several current guides although guides do not buy cars and some are suspect.  The good thing is that these cars are "relatively" plentiful and determining the values should not be a problem.  Ask for Steve

[alsancle]

Did you use the word "auto" with respect to the transmission?   Engine option, transmission and documentation are everything with muscle cars values.   But, if it is one family owned and you have all the original dealer paperwork that is a HUGE plus.  If the miles are accurate and the car shows it then it should be an easy car to sell.

[caddyshack]

Thanks Steve

Everybody usually thinks they have a potential goldmine in the garage. I learned a long time ago to accept reality.

B-J, Mecum, etc. etc have fabulous over restored examples with top dollar results, and this one is just a well cared for original.

Thanks again

[39BuickEight]

Highly desirable car to many who prefer originality and documentation.  The large auctions would be the place to get top dollar.  There can be a huge difference in price if you aren't exposed to the right audience.

[caddyshack]

3 minutes ago, alsancle said:

Did you use the word "auto" with respect to the transmission?   Engine option, transmission and documentation are everything with muscle cars values.   But, if it is one family owned and you have all the original dealer paperwork that is a HUGE plus.  If the miles are accurate and the car shows it then it should be an easy car to sell.

The tranny is a turbo hydromatic three speed. Red interior, Cortez silver paint, all paperwork is there, six or seven oil changes, new tires, new exhaust. I put 15K miles on it when I was attending college in 1970 and the rest was city mileage.

Thanks for your comment 

[Bleach]

Beautiful car. 69 was was the best looking year for Chevelles IMO.

[28 Chrysler]

Looks like a 396 badge on it.

Look up auction results for the last couple of years to get a ball park figure.

This may not be the best time of year to sell it in the Land of 10,000 Lakes and 3 fish, spring would be better.

[West Peterson]

41 minutes ago, caddyshack said:

Thanks Steve

Everybody usually thinks they have a potential goldmine in the garage. I learned a long time ago to accept reality.

B-J, Mecum, etc. etc have fabulous over restored examples with top dollar results, and this one is just a well cared for original.

Thanks again

In my opinion, that is more desirable than a perfectly restored car.

I sent a PM.

[alsancle]

The Chevelle guys will know exactly what this car is worth and it will be a premium over a nicely restored car with the exact same options.  The paperwork is worth another 10-15%.  Legit one owner is worth another 10-15%.

 

An auction will cost you 20%  (5 + 10 + 5 in logistics).  Keep in mind when you see a 100k auction price,  the guy selling the car is really clearing 80k.

[capngrog]

4 minutes ago, alsancle said:

 

 

4 minutes ago, alsancle said:

An auction will cost you 20%  (5 + 10 + 5 in logistics).  Keep in mind when you see a 100k auction price,  the guy selling the car is really clearing 80k.

 

I thought that auction premiums were paid by the buyer.  Not ever having bought or sold a car at auction, my question is based on a certain level of ignorance.

 

Cheers,

Grog

[alsancle]

 When you see a auction sale $,  that includes all commissions added in including the buyer's premium.   The seller then realizes 15-20% less.   People try to use auction sales to gauge their private sale values but they are not the same.

 

Ultimately the seller is covering all costs of the transaction, even if the buyer's premium goes directly to auction house.  The buyer is factoring that premium in to what they will pay, at least all the buyers I have every known. 

 

 

[intimeold]

8 minutes ago, capngrog said:

 

 

I thought that auction premiums were paid by the buyer.  Not ever having bought or sold a car at auction, my question is based on a certain level of ignorance.

 

Cheers,

Grog

The trend in recent auctions; is the auction company tries to collect a fee from both seller and buyer.  This has been going on for a long time at national auctions; but even local auctions seem to have jumped on the bandwagon.  

[mercer09]

If the paint, top and everything else are original- you have a gold mine!

 

congrats!!!!!!!!!!!

[capngrog]

5 hours ago, alsancle said:

 

Ultimately the seller is covering all costs of the transaction, even if the buyer's premium goes directly to auction house.  The buyer is factoring that premium in to what they will pay, at least all the buyers I have every known. 

 

Okay, that makes sense.  It's called the "buyer's premium" even though the seller takes the ultimate hit, due to the fact that most sellers have a maximum amount that they are willing to pay for a particular car.  Such an auction feature is worthy of some "comprehensive" program (insert program name here __________________) out of Washington D.C., purporting to be one thing, but actually resulting in another.

 

Cheers,

Grog

 

 

[caddyshack]

Thanks to all for the comments.

I found a document that states that the car was undercoated by Zeibart (?) shortly after the purchase. I know this is not good for the value, and it is costly to remove, but at least there is no rust. Never undercoated any of my vehicles, so I don't know if sub surface rust could be there.

[alsancle]

Yes, it would be optimal if it was bare and looked like 23k snow free, salt free miles, but f you can prove the car was undercoated when new then it is not horrible. 

 

I would take a ton of pictures, including papework and post it here:

 

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/60-whats-worth/

 

You will find market value within 5%.

[caddyshack]

2 hours ago, alsancle said:

Yes, it would be optimal if it was bare and looked like 23k snow free, salt free miles, but f you can prove the car was undercoated when new then it is not horrible. 

 

I would take a ton of pictures, including papework and post it here:

 

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/60-whats-worth/

 

You will find market value within 5%.

Thanks,

That is a very interesting site. Can't take more pics, the car is stored 5hrs from here. Have received some very helpful info and we can now discuss whether to sell it or one of us can purchase it from our relative.

[JACK M]

My recent experience with selling at an auction.

It costs a couple of hundred to initially sign up.

10 percent buyers premium, 10 percent sellers premium.

My convertible got close but kind of died out.

One of the auction officials came to me and made an offer that basically eliminated the sellers premium if I agreed to take a bit less than my reserve.

That number was only a few hundred less than I wanted and it was cash sold.

So the auction still got their 10 percent from the buyer as well as my up front money. They must figure that part of something is better than all of nothing.

Made sense to me.

[alsancle]

The auction company will work to make a deal if things are close. You always need to be nearby when your car is going through.  But 10 + 10 is new to me.  It is usually 5 +10.

[JACK M]

Could have been 5 and 10, My memory is flawed lately, especially on done deals.

It was close enough to make me happy. And yes, they like the seller to be on hand.

I see the car is now on Ebay for an extra 13K and has been relisted a few times.

 

My dealer buddy works auctions all the time and I piggy backed my car with several of his and we got a deal on the upfront money.

He tells me that there is a way to tell if the auctioneer is taking 'real money' bids by the way he holds his fingers.

I think that at the early moments of the auction he just starts blurting out numbers like there is interest and hopes someone will jump in with 'real money bids'.

 

I guess it the "lips are moving" thing. Typical in the used car circles.  LOL

Don't take offence to my babble if you fall into that category.....   HAHAHA

Edited October 24, 2017 by JACK M (see edit history)

[lump]

These Chevy muscle cars of the 60's and early 70's are the cars I know best. I grew up in my parents' antique cars, ever since the late 1950's, and still love them today. But in the early 70's I became a hot-rodding teenager, and eventually owned lots of muscle cars. Later I became a restorer, automotive writer, and marketing adviser to companies which make reproduction muscle car parts. So allow me to point out that in my experience, this car, if it is exactly what you say it is, is a VERY desirable and valuable car. But with some more information, we might discover that it is even more valuable than it would seem at first. Indeed, there are several bits of information about your 1969 Chevelle which you haven't yet shared, which might make very substantial differences in its value. 

 

First, in 1969 all Super Sport Chevelles were equipped with one of 3 different 396 engines (there was no "Malibu SS" that year, and no SS cars with small block engines. Your car model was officially called the "SS 396.") Two of those engines were considered to be standard high performance models; one rated at 325 horsepower (Regular Production Option L-35, I believe), and the other rated at 350 hp (RPO L-34). The third option was called the "Special High Performance" 396 engine, and it was rated at 375 horsepower. (RPO L-78). The 2 smaller hp engines were virtually identical. Both used blocks with 2-bolt main bearing caps, cast iron intake manifolds, Quadrajet spread-bore carburetors, hydraulic lifters, standard-groove fan pulleys, and cylinder heads with round intake ports and rocker arms with shorter slots for the rocker studs. The 375 hp engine used a block with 4-bolt main bearing caps, aluminum square-bore intake, Holley carburetor, solid lifters, deep-groove fan belt pulleys, cylinder heads with large "square intake ports," and rocker arms with longer rocker-stud slots to accommodate the high-lift cam. Obviously, the Special High Perf 375 hp engine was much more uncommon, and is very, very desirable today...especially when it is found in a convertible. Not many muscle cars were convertibles, to begin with,. And, most  of the muscle cars which were convertibles, were not equipped with special high perf engines. So that combination today is one of the reasons you see some muscle cars bringing ridiculous prices on TV auctions. 

 

Second, Chevelles were produced in 5 different GM factories. SOME of those factories would often leave a "Build Sheet" from the assembly line process somewhere in the car (Sometimes found between the gas tank and the trunk floor pan, or tucked in one of the seats, between the springs and the burlap fabric under the foam cushions, or under the carpet and/or floor sound deadener coating, or inside a door panel, headliner, etc, etc.) These build sheets contain a world of information on exactly how the car was equipped from the factory. It doesn't make much difference to the value of ordinary, garden variety models (IE: a 6 cylinder 4 door strip-down model). But on a very-desirable highly optioned model, a good original build sheet can add several thousand dollars in value.  I have included a photo of the build sheet I found in my own 1970 SS 454 Chevelle, before I even removed it for the first time. (it is located on the floor in my photo, behind the clutch and brake pedal, folded in half.)  If I had been younger, I would have done a back-flip the day I found it. That  piece of old paper added many thousand dollars to my RPO LS-6 Chevelle. 

 

Third, you mentioned that, "...all paperwork is there." In 1969, GM issued a warranty card with each new Chevrolet. It was metal, and printed in reverse (like the early metal credit cards which dept stores used to offer in the early 1960's). When you brought your car to the dealer for service, the service writer would put your Protecto-Plate in a little machine, lay some carbon forms on top of it, and swipe it. That gave the dealer vital information about the car. That info is considered a holy grail for collectors today, especially for well-equipped muscle car models. That metal card was originally attached to a folder made from card stock. Do you have that Protecto-Plate among the paperwork for this car? (One word of warning...there are fake Protecto-Plates on the market today). 

 

Fourth, (and my final point for now), Going by your description, this 1969 SS 396 Chevelle convertible sounds like the dream find-of-a-lifetime for most Chevy muscle car enthusiasts. Everyone wants to find an original, unmolested muscle car with original everything and factory documentation to prove it. MOST of these cars have had many of their parts switched around under the hood (often the entire original engine and all of its bolt-on components are long gone), plus holes cut in the hood, transmission replaced, wrong wheels, rusted out floor pans and quarter panels, upholstery shot or replaced, etc. So this is where the term "Numbers Matching" comes in. When your Chevelle was new, it had components all over it with casting and/or part numbers, and production date codes too. Nearly everything had at least a date code on it. Serious collectors want to see BOTH the correct casting number (similar to a part number, but usually not the same) and the correct production date code on all the components of the car. For example, the original carburetor, whether Quadrajet or Holley, would have had "casting number" stamped into it, along with a production date code. Obviously production dates on all components should normally precede the production date of the entire car by a few days, up to a couple of months (clearly, a carburetor can't have been produced AFTER the car was built, and still be the original unit which came with it on the assembly line.) Many nearly-complete, and nearly-original cars had mechanical failures over the years, and thus had original components replaced with rebuilt units, such as water pump, alternator, fuel pump, carburetor, etc. And, we hot rodders were notorious for replacing original parts with hot rod accessories, like exhaust headers, racing ignition coils and/or distributors, bigger carburetors, Edelbrock intakes, steel bell housings, etc, etc. So finding an original unmolested muscle car with most all of its original "born-with" components is every muscle car collector's dream....and nearly impossible. IF your car is that good, it is very rare indeed. And it could get close to double of what any price guide might tell you. 

Edited October 25, 2017 by lump (see edit history)

[caddyshack]

Lump

Extraordinary info. Very detailed and will be quite easy to document. Even though the auto is quite a distance from my home, I know that we have the window sheet showing all options and standard equipment, the build sheet was never looked for, the engine is 350hp with an automatic tranny (turbo-hydramatic I believe), the original carb I have and I believe a Holley economizer was installed in the 70's, protectorate is in the glove compartment along with all maintenance and misc service work, midas replaced the rippled exhaust pipes with new mufflers pipes and resonators (big mistake), radio was replaced with tape deck and I have the original radio. Just a few things from memory. If we can get the car home, the tags on misc items can get verified.

I liked this car so much when my mother purchased it, that I went out the next year and bought a '70 cowl inducted high hp 396 SS Hardtop, same color, but a 4 sp.

Thanks again, time to research. 

[lump]

Caddy, 

Cool story, and it sounds more and more like a fabulous car. And the fact that your mother bought it new, is "priceless," as they say. 

 

That "rippled exhaust" you describe sounds like an option called, "Chambered Exhaust." This was a system with essentially no "mufflers," but only long waffled pipes which acted as the "mufflers" themselves. As you might guess, this system was quite loud. If you indeed have the Protecto-Plate OR can find a "Build Sheet," it may list the chambered exhaust system in the little square which indicates exhaust options. If so, add a check mark on the "good side" of the estimated value comparison chart for your car. 

 

For a long time, chambered exhaust systems were extinct. But several years ago another automotive writer (friend of mine) developed tooling and reproduced these chambered pipes. He sold out his tooling years ago, as I recall, but I'm pretty sure brand new reproduction chambered exhaust systems are available today. They used to even make them in unpolished stainless steel, which LOOKED exactly like the original steel pipes, but offered corrosion resistance. Personally, I don't like chambered exhaust, except as a rare feature to brag about. Not only are they loud, but the sound they make, doesn't sound like a high performance car (to me). Rather, it sounds like a junky old truck with a defective exhaust system. But, to each his own. If I owned a Chevy muscle car with documentation to prove it was originally equipped with chambered exhaust, I would buy a reproduction chambered exhaust system, and hang it on the wall. Just so I would have it to include with the car, should I ever decide to sell it. 

 

If you indeed have that original carburetor, DON'T rush out to have it rebuilt. Typical rebuilding operations dip the carb in carburetor cleaner, which removes the gold-colored cadmium dichromate finish. IF you check the numbers and find that you do indeed have the correct original carb, send it to seasoned professionals who specialize in restoring vintage muscle car carburetors. I know a few people that I could recommend. 

 

Now that we know that you have an RPO L-34 big block Chevy engine with Turbo 400 transmission, it's time to ask about a few other options. First, and most importantly, does this car have factory air conditioning? (AC was NOT AVAILABLE at all on 375 hp 396 engines...RPO L-78). IF your Chevelle has factory air, this is really good news. Not many buyers selected BOTH the convertible model and air conditioning. So a car with documentation proving that it had both options is very uncommon, and very desirable. Back in the 1960's when AC was still not present on a huge majority of cars, it was highly uncommon for someone to order a car with both convertible top AND air conditioning. So, if your Chevelle indeed has both...it's time to take your lovely "significant other" out for dinner. Buy a bottle of champagne with the meal...

[lump]

I would love to see detail photos of this car. There is much to be learned from underhood photos, etc. 

 

IF you find the Protecto-Plate, please post a photo. I will do my best to decode it for you. But an original build sheet is even more valuable. 

[lump]

By the way...."window sheets" have been available for many years, as reproductions. There was a guy in Indiana (I think), who could make  your a brand new window sheet for a few bucks. He only needed you to supply him with the options that you THOUGHT your car came with. Thus, today collectors are not overly fond of window sheets, unless they are confident that the window sheet is absolutely original. 

[lump]

By the way, another important ingredient which will add or detract to the value of your Chevelle.... Does it have bucket seat, a console, and a "stirrup shifter," or a bench seat and column-mounted shifter? BIG difference in value for your car, 

[alsancle]

9 hours ago, lump said:

By the way, another important ingredient which will add or detract to the value of your Chevelle.... Does it have bucket seat, a console, and a "stirrup shifter," or a bench seat and column-mounted shifter? BIG difference in value for your car, 

 

Most of the non-musclecars guys don't believe the 4 speed premium (or minimize it) and probably don't get that a column auto might be worth 40-50% less than a 4 speed car.   The console auto is not as bad, and a dual gate does a bit better than that.  I was talking to a friend the other day and we were wondering who would buy a HEMI car with a column auto. 

[lump]

3 hours ago, alsancle said:

 

Most of the non-musclecars guys don't believe the 4 speed premium (or minimize it) and probably don't get that a column auto might be worth 40-50% less than a 4 speed car.   The console auto is not as bad, and a dual gate does a bit better than that.  I was talking to a friend the other day and we were wondering who would buy a HEMI car with a column auto. 

Well said. You are absolutely right, Alsancle. Indeed, with some cars, that column shifter knocks the heck out of the value...such as 1967-69 Camaros. And that goes to prove the point that "rare" doesn't equal "more valuable." Column shifters in early Camaros were indeed uncommon. But today most restorers who would encounter one would opt to switch it to a floor shifter, even though that isn't "original" to that car. And in MOST cases, the switch-over would probably add to the car's value. The fact is that not many people wanted column shifters in their Camaros in 1967, and not many people want them now either. 

 

On your other example, the Hemi car, I might offer a completely different perspective... Especially within the Mopar muscle car crowd, there are quite a large number of folks who actually prefer the concept of the the stripped-down, cheapo body/trim pkg, when the factory coupled it with a monster engine and transmission. You'll hear a group of Mopar fanatics standing around "bench-racing," daydreaming about Hemi or 440 magnum-equipped Roadrunners or Dodge Darts (for example), with "taxi-cab interior," radio and heater delete, rubber floor mats instead of carpet, bench seat, and either 4 speed or column-shifted Torqueflite transmission. (Keep in mind that the Chrysler Torqueflite trans had an awesome reputation at the drag strip clear back into the late 1950's.) 

 

Indeed, 40 years ago when I was a street-racing punk, I owned a used '69 Nova SS 396, factory equipped with the special hi-perf  RPO L-78  375 hp engine. (I bought it with a rod knocking in the engine, and replaced the engine with a monster 427 engine I already owned. That combo was a BEAST on the street!) ANYWAY, my Nova came from the factory with rubber floor mats, radio delete, column-shifted 400 turbo, no optional chrome trim, etc. Today that car would be considered pretty cool, and pretty valuable (IF, you had documentation to prove it was authentic, and had most of the original numbers-matching components.)

 

However, in both of my examples above, the cars were simply set up as factory-ordered race-car platforms. This is the style of car that serious drag racers would have ordered, before taking them home and modifying them heavily for track use. And obviously, most such cars were abused and destroyed. So finding them today in original condition is extremely rare, AND very desirable, IF you have that all-important documentation.

 

When the lack of "cool" options really hurts the value of a muscle car is when that car is NOT a stripped-down race car platform, but a regular-order muscle car, like a 1969 SS 396 - 350 hp Chevelle. I refer to options like bucket seats, floor shifters, 4-speed manual transmissions, rear spoilers, "cowl hoods," factory tach and gauges, and similar accessories 

 

That's my opinion, and I'm sticking to it! LOL

Edited October 25, 2017 by lump (see edit history)

[caddyshack]

Thanks again Lump. 

I don't believe that it has AC.

I would love to dive into this research but the auto is 250 mi North and I don't have easy access to it. I was hoping to get a rough idea as to the value and then possibly make a buyout possible with my siblings. In any case I would bring it back to my home to correct any issues that I may find, and I would be more than happy to share that info with you.

[lump]

Caddy, 

I really hope you get to own this car. And once we know a few more facts about the car, we can help you arrive at a fair price. 

 

But ASSUMING it really is all original, and retains its original numbers-matching components, and has its authentic original Protecto-Plate, has bucket seats and console, really is one-owner, and the paint and upholstery really do look like this car has less than 30,000 miles, I'm guessing somewhere around 45 to 50 grand. (Maybe more). 

 

A one-owner factory muscle car with extreme low mileage and all documentation in very good shape, which would STAY within the same family....that is nearly unheard of. IF all that is true, one thing is for sure: You'll NEVER get another chance like this, and just about no one else will either! GO for it!  

 

And then someday, take me for a ride. Better yet, let me see under the hood, and crawl beneath the car. I want my own 1970 Chevelle to look really right when it's done. And looking at another SS big block Chevelle with such low mileage would be a privilege. I would be willing to make a trip just to see it. 

[cutlasguy]

I lucked out on my first time buying a Classic Car! I purchased a 72 Olds Cutlass "S" with air at Carlisle in 1994. A guy from New Jersey owned it and it had only 30k miles on it at the time! After I had taken it home, I found that the guy that had restored it lived only 20 miles away! He verified that the mileage was true and that he had bought it from a young man who needed money for college! His mother was the original owner ,and the car had not a spec of rust on it when he began the restoration! The drive train was completely untouched also. The biggest asset is finding original ownership, but the best way to find out what your car is going for is to check magazines like Autobuy!

[Ed Luddy]

That's a very desirable car in a great color scheme. If it were in my family I would probably start the sale price around $60,000.

I may be low at that?

[mercer09]

I'm guessing somewhere around 45 to 50 grand. (Maybe more).

 

I would easily double that number.

[Matt Harwood]

11 minutes ago, mercer09 said:

I'm guessing somewhere around 45 to 50 grand. (Maybe more).

 

I would easily double that number.

 

What does that even mean?

[mercer09]

Matt,

it means that if that is an all original 23k mile car- it is easily worth 90k.

 

not so hard to figure out.

 

a #2 69 SS goes for 50-60 all day long in restored condition.

 

show me another with 23k miles and Matt, you have some wonderful cars for sale and you know how RARE a 23k mile big block is.................. ss Chevelle.

 

I challenge everyone here to show me another ORIGINAL in this condition and no, I dont know the seller at all.

 

Let's be realistic on prices here.

[alsancle]

I was down this road just a few months ago with a friend.  69 396 4 speed pace car convertible with one owner.  Exact same issue, kids are trying to figure out what to do with it, buy each other out, sell it, etc.  Car looks great in pictures and presents well.  There was a just a couple of details the kids didn't know themselves.  1. The car was repainted in the 80s.  And 2.  there was as service replacement block.   Kind of takes the air out of the one owner balloon.

 

If this car has a auto on the column you probably couldn't get the 50k.   All details need to be known.

[Matt Harwood]

It has been my experience that strong originality will put a car on par with a fully restored cars, but in most cases it doesn't add a significant premium. That is, an original car with evidence of use and some deterioration can stand on equal footing with a high-quality restored car (although not on par with a true #1 quality car). On a relatively common car like this, even a Chevelle big block convertible (of which they still built tens of thousands), there's no way simply being original will add 50% to its value. Chevelles live in a fairly fixed range of values and there are enough of them changing hands frequently enough that the established transaction prices are pretty well documented. This isn't a Yenko showing up out of nowhere, it's a standard SS convertible with a slushbox. Low mileage is nice, one owner is nice, but there are other factors that will have a much larger determinant on value--the engine, for example. I can guarantee it's not an L78, so forget that. It might be an L34, and that would be a nice bonus but again, not enough to make it worth 50% more. Options are a factor, too. A/C? Power windows? Console? Gauges?

 

I'm always reluctant to put a price on anyone's car in a situation such as this simply because it's easy to be very wrong. Telling him it's a near-six-figure car does him no favors--if it's a bench seat, automatic, column-shift, L35 with no options and no papers, it's not particularly valuable at all, originality notwithstanding. It all comes down to what it actually is and what comes with it as proof of the story it tells--without that information, we're all just whistling in the dark.

 

A car like this will be subjected to an extraordinary amount of scrutiny. If it's an upgraded numbers-matching engine (L34) and there's documentation like a window sticker or build sheet to back it up, it'll bring strong money. But 50% more? No way.  Automatic transmission puts a cap on values and that color combination will need to be documented because I've never seen another silver-on-red one. Not that it couldn't be, but at least give us a shot of the cowl tag and engine, plus any documentation you might have. As others have mentioned, the seller needs to tell us exactly what it is and what paperwork he can produce, and then a much more accurate value can be ascertained. Right now, we know nothing but the year, make, model, and color. Cars like this are all about the details. Buyers are smart, they are looking for proof of the car's credentials and its story--gone are the days when they'd just take your word for it that a car was legit. Without those specific ingredients, it may not only  be less valuable, but less marketable as well.

 

All that said, isn't this the forum where everyone regularly complains about people showing up with completely unrealistic expectations of value on their cars? Telling him it's a "gold mine" and that values could be double book doesn't help anyone, especially the seller who may take that advice and end up wondering why his "gold mine" of a car is finding no suitors at double book value...

[mercer09]

well said Matt- I agree with what you have written.

 

I on the other hand am tired of the folks who write on these forums that everyone else's car is worthless, except when it is time to sell their own.

 

then the sky's the limit and expectations are stupid.

 

I do believe this car has the potential to be worth so much more then 50k though, but as you say, let's have more information.

 

original cars today are bringing far more then #2 restorations, of which there mostly are out there.

 

also, double the price takes it up 100% vs the 50% you mention.............

[lump]

Matt...."tens of thousands"?? 

I agree with not calling this car a gold mine without knowing more facts----but are you aware that GM produced less than 9,000 TOTAL Chevelle V8 model convertibles in 1969? (Check out stats on Chevellestuff online). And as near as we know, MOST of those were not SS 396 models. So right off the bat, this car has the POTENTIAL to be very valuable. The OP says it has 23,000 original miles, and "all paperwork." If that's original paint, upholstery, etc. Wow. 

 

More so than regular passenger cars, muscle cars were driven hard, and commonly abused...if not by their first owners, then by subsequent owners. Totally original unmolested muscle cars are quite rare as a percentage of the total extant fleet. As such, muscle car collectors value "survivor" cars much more than nicely restored units. There are many times more restored cars out there than "survivors." 

 

Silver paint over red interior was not super common in 1969, but i have seen several SS 396 models with this combination, which seems to be much appreciated by collectors today. 

 

Anyway, we're ALL anxious for details, photos, etc, before advising of value. But the statistics provided by the OP, if accurate, suggest a very expensive car, in my experience.