Mpgp1999 Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Hello I have a 1926 dodge that I would like repainted The same colours. The paint has faded. I am locate in ny zip code10597. My email is oldmodelt1915@gmail.comMatthew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Too little info. Show quality? Driver? Strip to bare metal? Any metal work needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_S_in_Penna Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 (edited) Anyone who has knowledge of painting coulddiscuss with Mr. Mpgp and explain the differences. He may not realize that there can be a HUGEdifference in quality between a quick-and-cheap$500 paint job and an award-winning $10,000 paint job. The former removes no trim, or very little trim;does minimal surface preparation; may not remove all dings;and gives a paint job that looks good from a distance butwhich any car fan will see is cheap when he gets close to the car.When you sight down the sides of such a shiny car,you'll see clearly that the sheet metal isn't straight. The latter removes all trim; strips the car to bare metalso the paint will adhere and be very long-lasting;likely even removes fenders; gets all sheet metalabsolutely straight and dent-free; and applies a top-qualitypaint system, including the door jambs, underneath the hoodand trunk, and including the body-colored paint in the engine bay. And there are all sorts of qualities in between these two extremes.Don't judge simply by a shop's quoted price! Maybe Mr. Mpgp knows this, and just needs someone torecommend a good body or restoration shop. As a car fan,I doubt he wants the El Cheapo kind. Please tell us more! Edited March 11, 2016 by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 (edited) If it's just faded, It will be a whole lot cheaper to have someone who is experienced buff it out for you. You would be amazed how a bad paint job or an aged one can be brought to life with the proper technique and it will be cheaper than pretty much any paint job you can buy. Edited March 11, 2016 by auburnseeker (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_S_in_Penna Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 I hope the original poster comes back toanswer the questions which helpful members asked him.People posting need to realize that the forum should bean ongoing friendly conversation:it's not like posting a want-ad in a magazine. Mr. Mpgp, did you find the paint shop you were seeking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 Sorry I was away It was originally painted in the 80s by some kid in his garage you can very clearly see the brushstrokes also where is the paint started to drip I am looking for the more expensive type of paint job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 I've wet sanded and buffed a brushed on paint job and you would be surprised how good it can look. It's not exactly concourse but you wouldn't be ashamed of it especially if you told people it was painted with a brush. The big expensive wooden boats (Garwood, Chris Craft, Hacker Craft) were all varnished and painted with a brush especially when they were restored. One good part is you usually don't burn through the paint as it's pretty thick. Probably not the answer you were looking for but with the cost of paint jobs today, I will go a long ways to make old paint look good before i plunk out 10K for a paint job especially on some certain cars where the paint job will be more than what the car is even worth. New paint also makes old chrome, interior and rubber parts look bad so you go beyond the paint job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Huston Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 On 3/10/2016 at 4:48 AM, John_S_in_Penna said: $500 paint job and an award-winning $10,000 paint job. Out here in the late great state of California, near Sacramento, I tried to get my 1929 Studebaker President painted last year. The Studebaker President has the remains of a red repaint over the original factory brown and green paint. The red is mostly gone. I took my Studebaker to four paint shops, two restoration shops, and two reliable auto body shops, to get quotes on a new paint job. I told all four shops that I would dismantle the car, get the parts striped to bare metal, and then reassemble the car when everything has been repainted. All the paint shops needed to do body repair and paint. All four shops gave me quotes of $20,000 plus. My Studebaker will continue to be driven with the mix of an old repaint and the original paint as long as I am own the car. Who can afford a $20,000 plus paint job on a 4 door Studebaker? If I could find a shop in California that would give me a quality paint job for $10,000 I would jump on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 This is a thirty year old paint job (the maroon) that I did in my back yard with an attachment for a vacuum cleaner (also shown). A little fiddling to get the paint thinned right and a bit awkward working with a thick vacuum cleaner hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 9 hours ago, Mark Huston said: Out here in the late great state of California, near Sacramento, I tried to get my 1929 Studebaker President painted last year. The Studebaker President has the remains of a red repaint over the original factory brown and green paint. The red is mostly gone. I took my Studebaker to four paint shops, two restoration shops, and two reliable auto body shops, to get quotes on a new paint job. I told all four shops that I would dismantle the car, get the parts striped to bare metal, and then reassemble the car when everything has been repainted. All the paint shops needed to do body repair and paint. All four shops gave me quotes of $20,000 plus. My Studebaker will continue to be driven with the mix of an old repaint and the original paint as long as I am own the car. Who can afford a $20,000 plus paint job on a 4 door Studebaker? If I could find a shop in California that would give me a quality paint job for $10,000 I would jump on it. Unfortunately, those who do body work and paint have to charge the same per hour if they are working on a Duesenberg or a Studebaker. Here in PA we would have guesstimated the job at $12-15K + materials, assuming you were serious about doing the disassembly and reassembly yourself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_S_in_Penna Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 (edited) 10 hours ago, Mark Huston said: Out here in the late great state of California, near Sacramento, I tried to get my 1929 Studebaker President painted last year... All four shops gave me quotes of $20,000 plus.... Mark, I think those high prices are a product of where you live. California is a beautiful state, but we keep hearing that it's now a high-regulation state--and now an expensive place to do business. In our area, the heart of antique-car territory, there are a number of top-quality restoration shops that charge $50 per hour. It might pay you to have your car shipped to a reputable restoration shop in a near-by state. Similarly, a southern California resident told me that rechroming of a car was around $20,000. I know it can be done well for half that price. Edited March 30, 2016 by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Think about it. Assuming a shop rate of $50/hr and a price of $14k labor (7 weeks). 4 hood panels, 4 fenders, 2 side splash aprons,rear splash aprons, 4 doors, luggage rack, headlight cross bar, and the body. Let's block out 40 hours for the body including taping it up for 2 tone paint. That leaves 240 hours left of your $14k. 16 body parts to prep, seal, primer, sand, paint, wet sand and polish. Average 15 hours per part. Sure that headlight crossbar can be prepped and painted for far less than 15 hours, but the fenders? Inside and out? No one can do all the work necessary to do a quality paint job on those front fenders in 15 hours, no matter how good they are. Add in $2500 - 3000 for materials and you're looking at $17,000 minimum for a quality job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_S_in_Penna Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 1 hour ago, Restorer32 said: ... you're looking at $17,000 minimum for a quality job. Whatever the level of quality of the work, and whatever the price, from what I've heard the price would be substantially higher in California! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Yes it would, no doubt about that. Higher rents, higher wages, higher taxes. Most restoration shops in Calif moved out years ago. Remember Hill and Vaughan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Huston Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 Yes, things are more expensive in California. I will continue to look for options and if necessary I will learn how to paint the car myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6024 Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 Painting yourself is the way to go if you have some time. I have not done real painting but have sprayed some 2 part epoxy primer. Cleaned to bare metal some areas with rust starting on some 'underside areas' and prepped and sprayed them. Came out good, but dimples, some 'orange peel.' Going to look at spraying some top coat and clear this summer. Consider buying an HVLP system, which is a fan and special gun. The sprayfine HVLP system. I think Fuji also makes some. http://www.turbineproducts.com/sprayfine-a401-4-stage-turbine-hvlp-spray-system/ Sprayfine Sprayfine A401 4-Stage Turbine HVLP Spray System $549.99 Sprayfine® A-401 4-Stage HVLP Turbine Spray System Save Paint, Reduce Overspray! Comes with super high flex lightweight 25' air hose - perfect for auto painting! Produces 101 CFM (cubic feet per minute) air flow Max pressure 8.5 psi Works with standard 120-Volt household electrical outlet! Portable, requires no air compressor! 4-stage, bypass tangential discharge turbine motor (motor cooling air is kept separate from spraying air) Filters are economical and easy to replace! Includes all metal all chrome bleeder gun w/1 qt cup (no plastic parts) 1.3mm projector set installed (other size pro sets available for $30.00 apiece) Semi-PRO 2 HVLP Spray System FUJI-2202F The semi-pro 2 is the perfect HVLP Spray System for serious hobbyists and semi-professionals. Powerful 1400 watt motor provides enough power to spray all coatings. Durable metal Turbine case sits on 4... http://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/fuji-2202f?cm_mmc=Google-_-PRODUCTFEED-_-FUJI-_-2202F&CAWELAID=600009240000038408&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=600009240000689466&cadevice=c&gclid=Cj0KEQjw8u23BRCg6YnzmJmPqYgBEiQALf_XzQOZeCcye7XsXFChsxEvbfgltBXwyf_mVrRQEgB4ISoaAraj8P8HAQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vermontboy Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 Preparation is the key - 95 per cent of your time (maybe more) is spent preparing to paint. Spend a lot of time and research on the paint you will use - your choices may be limited in California. Go to a regular auto supply store, not a Big Box store, and talk to the oldest guy behind the counter.. It used to be easy to shoot lacquer and color sand between coats and rub out the finish using finer grits of compound. The more coatsthe deeper the color (to a point). You can still buy lacquer but I am not certain if it is legal to use it in California. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick8086 Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 Maybe someone should talk about : 1 stage paint job.. or single stage paint job vs 2 stage.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_S_in_Penna Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 (edited) 12 hours ago, Mark Huston said: Yes, things are more expensive in California. I will continue to look for options and if necessary I will learn how to paint the car myself. It's convenient to have a near-by restoration shop, but many car hobbyists use tried and true shops that are a good distance from their homes. It will be worth the savings to you. Surely there is a reputable one in Oregon or Utah or Nevada. Your car's original color scheme is good-looking, by the way. It would be distinctive and dignified if redone in that historic scheme. Edited March 31, 2016 by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 What about maaco? i can't find anyone who is willing to paint my 26 let alone give me a qoute Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 If you have a technical school in your area that teaches auto body work, go and visit them. If they have adult evening classes even better. If you can't find someone to paint your car you can always learn to do it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Call MAACO! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 14 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said: What about maaco? i can't find anyone who is willing to paint my 26 let alone give me a qoute You need a restoration shop that only works on collector cars. Very few body shops will do overall paint jobs anymore. We have a deal with the body shop next door. We don't do modern collision work, they don't do collector cars. If you wern't 200+ miles away we would be happy to talk to you about your car. We recently did a '28 Durant 4 door and the price came out to be about what I estimated above for any 1920's 4 door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 (edited) It is expensive just to keep the doors open on a business. And if they do make any money on the job, 50% goes to taxes for an incorporated shop or 40% for a proprietor. Two guys working all day might get 150 bucks after working a 10 hour day. Don't forget, a restoration shop has to satisfy the customer as well as every friend and self appointed judge that strolls by on the sidewalk. "Did you know a fly left a footprint under the lip of the fender where beading is rolled over? Are you gonna get that fixed?" I don't blame a lot of shops for deterring the hobby business. Base coat, clear coat the soccer Mom's van and move out the production work. I was out in the garage with some 80 grit yesterday and planning the air line drops I want to pipe in. I know it's a 15 day job at $1,000 a day. And if the materials cost three grand I can screw it up 5 times, but I don't think it will be that bad. The professional painters I know usually only paint their cars two or three times to get them nice. A customer can only afford once with a shop. I'm lucky the cars I have that need paint I bought cheap and a long time ago. I didn't lay out the big bucks for a classic Studebaker or that kind of stuff, out of my range. Oh! Be careful and don't ever paint one of those four door cars white, not good at all. Bernie Edited May 3, 2016 by 60FlatTop (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akstraw Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 Restorer32, I like the way that you walked through the estimate. That was very informative. Thanks for posting. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 On 5/3/2016 at 8:01 PM, 60FlatTop said: It is expensive just to keep the doors open on a business. And if they do make any money on the job, 50% goes to taxes for an incorporated shop or 40% for a proprietor. Two guys working all day might get 150 bucks after working a 10 hour day. Don't forget, a restoration shop has to satisfy the customer as well as every friend and self appointed judge that strolls by on the sidewalk. "Did you know a fly left a footprint under the lip of the fender where beading is rolled over? Are you gonna get that fixed?" I don't blame a lot of shops for deterring the hobby business. Base coat, clear coat the soccer Mom's van and move out the production work. I was out in the garage with some 80 grit yesterday and planning the air line drops I want to pipe in. I know it's a 15 day job at $1,000 a day. And if the materials cost three grand I can screw it up 5 times, but I don't think it will be that bad. The professional painters I know usually only paint their cars two or three times to get them nice. A customer can only afford once with a shop. I'm lucky the cars I have that need paint I bought cheap and a long time ago. I didn't lay out the big bucks for a classic Studebaker or that kind of stuff, out of my range. Oh! Be careful and don't ever paint one of those four door cars white, not good at all. Bernie Once had a fellow call to tell me that the stainless steel rivets we had made to rivet together the top irons on his Dual Cowl Phaeton were 20 thousandth (.020) bigger than his chrome plated originals. We have learned over the years that some consider it great sport to try to find fault with a professionally restored car. All part of the game. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smos001 Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 Mathew, We would be glad to help you at Precision Restorations in St. Louis MO with your 1926 Dodge. We are a large shop (24,000 SF) with 11 employees who have the skill to do your restoration right. We have all the expertise in-house you need to complete your restoration the way you want it. There is a great guide to help you with the restoration processes and the costs on our website. Check out our website precisioncarrestoration.com or you can call us at 314-652-1966 Good luck and we hope we can help, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted May 16, 2016 Author Share Posted May 16, 2016 Well I'm just looking for it to be good and fast because I have a car show in less than 1 month Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 I think good and fast are mutually exclusive in a paint job. For a fast job call MAACO! they are capable of a good job but you will pay over the advertised price for whatever added labor is needed. I used to prep cars for friends that then went to a MAACO type shop. They paint many cars and do a good job of laying it on. If you want a show job you will pay and it will take a bit more time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Roj Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 14 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said: Well I'm just looking for it to be good and fast because I have a car show in less than 1 month You don't understand, fast in a paint job or fast in a restoration usually is spelled CRAP. I don't mean to be harsh, but good paint jobs take prep work, good restorations take time, sometimes lifetimes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 21 hours ago, Roj said: You don't understand, fast in a paint job or fast in a restoration usually is spelled CRAP. I don't mean to be harsh, but good paint jobs take prep work, good restorations take time, sometimes lifetimes! It may take a life time if you don't ever work on it. I cant let my stuff sit there to gather dust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_S_in_Penna Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 (edited) On 5/16/2016 at 2:02 PM, Roj said: You don't understand, fast in a paint job or fast in a restoration usually is spelled CRAP. I don't mean to be harsh, but good paint jobs take prep work, good restorations take time... Excellent point. Not only does good work take time, but excellent restoration shops are in demand and probably have a waiting list, which might be at least a year long. It's likely that no good paint job is ever achieved by a good shop by walking in and needing the finished product out within a month. "Can you restore my uncle's Mustang? His birthday is in two weeks!" Edited May 17, 2016 by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 If you're pretty handy do it yourself if it doesn't need body work. You can get some pretty amazing finishes with spray can paint now days. I used Valspar Primer+Paint in One on my '27 T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted May 18, 2016 Author Share Posted May 18, 2016 What tools and or supplies would I need to do it myself It just needs to look not like crap until I can find someone who can paint it for real Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 (edited) You will need sandpaper and paint and some way to apply it if not in a rattle can. The surface needs to be thoroughly cleaned before paint. I like to wet sand with tsp added to my bucket of water. Final wet-sand with 600 grit so sand paper scratches don't show. photo is of a 2 day paint job, as you can see I had to touch up under the grill. We sanded for about 4 hrs. and it was sprayed were it is located. It was a fast job for a friend and not for any money. He bought the materials. I used a harbor Freight so called hvlp gun that cost about $30 Edited May 18, 2016 by JFranklin (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 3 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said: What tools and or supplies would I need to do it myself It just needs to look not like crap until I can find someone who can paint it for real If you use decent rattle can paint it IS for real. You need fine grit sandpaper (400 or so) and a sanding block for the flat surfaces. You want only to scuff the paint that's still there so new paint has a base to which it will stick. You'll need a jug of cheap paint thinner and lint free cloth for periodic and final wipe downs before masking. Lots of newspaper for masking, DETAIL vinyl tape (3/8" wide would be fine for you) for masking tight areas and 2" wide automotive masking tape you stick to the detail tape and newspapers. Using the detailing vinyl first makes the masking job much easier as you aren't trying to "bend" the masking tape around tight sections whereas the vinyl is VERY flexible. Have you painted before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_S_in_Penna Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 6 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said: What tools and or supplies would I need to do it myself It just needs to look not like crap until I can find someone who can paint it for real Matthew (mpgp), I'd be patient and find just the right shop, even waiting a year if you want to have it done well. Conserve your resources. Don't spend your time painting it twice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted May 19, 2016 Author Share Posted May 19, 2016 So what I did is I got a restaurant in black enamel spray paint can and went over parts of the bumper and the fenders edges that really needed the rest I left as is and it looks a little better now until I can find the right paint shop I also completely repainted the trunk because that was just rusted and bad 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smos001 Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 (edited) Mathew, It sounds like eventually you will be looking for some level of restoration. Honestly, a good restoration is an art. Do your homework with restoration shops. Do they have the expertise? How many technicians do they have? The more in-house knowledge is available to solve unique issues with unique vehicles the smoother the build will go. Can they fabricate special parts or fix parts that maybe hard to source or impossible to source? How open are they to visits and keeping you up to date via phone and email pictures. How do they do the estimate? If they do it over the phone or via pictures or a quick walk around...run away!!! A good estimate takes hours. Do they list every hour and part in the estimate? For example our estimate is a line by line, part by part estimate. You get a thorough understanding of the whole project in the estimate and the following discussion about your restoration before we start. We believe in honest truth before we start a restoration and throughout the build. If you want your restoration to be done right, have a reliable and lasting vehicle, then you need to pick the right shop. Feel free to call us anytime to discuss your build or how we can help with whatever level of restoration you are thinking about. Best, Precisioncarrestoration.com 314-652-1966 Edited May 20, 2016 by Smos001 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 You would actually give a firm price on the restoration of a 1920's vehicle? More power to you my friend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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