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About vermontboy

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  • Birthday 04/01/1949

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  1. vermontboy

    1953 Buick Special drivetrain change

    I agree totally, and any kid who grew up in the 60's with access to a set of torches, a Lincoln welder, and a down home junk yard full of cheap raw material is familiar with the drill. But well over half of those homebuilt specials did not handle well, chewed through tires on monthly basis, and braking often left a lot to be desired. Not to mention that after a couple of years in the salt the welds would fail at inconvenient times. So while it is not rocket science, to do it properly involves a fair degree of engineering knowledge, a decent background in math, and patience to cut the parts correctly, jig them up in alignment, and the ability to complete a weld with proper penetration (easier with todays equipment and materials.). As a first project I just felt it might be a bit more than a novice would want to attempt. We all have (had) to start somewhere (mine was a frame off Model "A" sport coupe in the early 60's). It just kind of seemed like jumping into the deep end of the pool for your first swimming lesson.
  2. vermontboy

    1953 Buick Special drivetrain change

    In 1953 Buick used a torque tube drivetrain which does not lend itself to engine swaps. It requires a complete re-engineering of the chassis and transmission, driveline and rear end and suspension. You can, by the way, soup up a Buick Straight 8'
  3. vermontboy

    Anti-freeze Question

    I remember having to add a quart or so of alcohol either per weekend or per trip. I drove home from Utica to Rochester almost every weekend (about 150 miles one way). But up until at least 1971 the quart cans of alcohol were readily available at all gas stations... I remember using it because I was told that if regular antifreeze got into the oil through a blown gasket it made a big mess (which is true - there are supporting threads on here about how to cleanout your motor)..Can't remember what my dad used in his Pierce-Arrow but I would almost bet alcohol due to it's tendency to blow the head gasket every year or two in spite of having the head machined flat (and yes- he followed the sequence to iron the head flat every time - who knows? Head gaskets were not easy to find in the early 60's and it always occurred in the same place but a used gasket provided material for patching it. (probably why it would blow out).
  4. vermontboy

    Anti-freeze Question

    I may be dating myself here but back in the 60's I used to use some sort of "alcohol" for anti freeze in my Model "A" that was sold by the quart can at gas stations. Don't remember if it was methanol or glycerol based or neither. I know that it was good to at least 30 below because I used it in the Utica NY area - the "A" was my daily driver in college. Can anyone shed some light on what it was and what the disadvantages of using it today would be.
  5. vermontboy

    In the 1930's could you Parallel Park ? ?

    My dad took his drivers test in Vermont in 1940 and he had to parallel park with his logging truck. I had to parallel park when I took my test in Vermont at 14 in 1963 even though there was only one space to parallel park in all of Montpelier - right in front of the state Capital Building. All other parking in the city was angled in ! Kicker is it was between two cones set pretty far apart.. it was the only parking place for a couple of blocks.
  6. vermontboy

    1953 Merc?

    Checking the rockers and rear quarters, floor pans, etc is an absolute must on that vintage Ford or Mercury in the Northeast. I know NH isn't a heavy salt state but wet sand wasn't kind either. I saw rusted out junkers when I was a teen and they were only 5 or 6 years old then so look very closely and if you are not comfortable being able to determine the extent of rust damage take someone with you and pay to get it on a lift........ a lot of "nice looking" pre '55 Fomoco cars are pretty far gone underneath around here.....
  7. vermontboy

    1949 Chrysler windsor

    You need a shop manual. Many of us could tell you from memory the basics, but on many engines there are little "gotcha's" that will get you without a shop manual whether or not you have done them before. As a basic starting point - label things. It is all too easy to put a long bolt in a short hole during reassembly. It is all too easy not to notice that Part A must come off to get Part B off. It is all too easy not to "iron" the head flat when torquing bolts. Even though I have replaced my share of head gaskets on old engines I want a manual to give me reminders as to the hidden problems that may be present on a particular make or model. The cost of a shop manual will save you at least that much frustration on the first repair you do - honest......
  8. If you read down thru page 1 you will see some people have already given guideline pricing. this is NADA pricing which appears fairly optimistic but note that $4K isn't even in the ballpark. Original MSRP Low Retail Average Retail High Retail Base Price $2,842 $13,200 $21,300 $39,700
  9. vermontboy

    Height of 1930 Model A Station Wagon

    It doesn't say it is an original car. I don't understand why you wouldn't just measure it and then you would know. You certainly wouldn't want to buy it and find out it didn't fir. It costs nothing to measure it ...... .why is there any question as to what needs to be done ?
  10. vermontboy

    1949 Chrysler windsor

    Make certain that all battery cables are at least 0 gauge. Most hard starting is tied to 12v replacement cables and or bad connections at battery, starter, or ground (usually ground). It is the first thing I check on any 6 volt vehicle with starting problems. You can get a good set of 0 or 00 (better yet) made at almost any welding shop.
  11. It would probably help to know year and make as someone familiar with later unibody cars might not be sufficiently well versed on the older cars with wood frame, etc.
  12. vermontboy

    Interesting car 1904? any guesses?

    No problem in snow - remember they didn't used to plow roads like they do now. I used a Model "A" Ford as a daily driver for one whole winter in Utica NY when going to college and commuting back to Rochester for weekends....cold yes, but no problem with snow.
  13. vermontboy

    Should I daily drive a classic car?

    A good friend at work gave me a nicely done plaque with an Irish blessing shortly before my retirement - it said simply "May you live all the days of your life". Since then her husband passed away unexpectedly and I have watched good friends pass away waiting for the "right time" to do the things they want to do. The time is NOW -
  14. vermontboy


    Exactly my point - those things do happen.
  15. vermontboy


    That would make sense - perhaps they have a notary "verify" your VIN number while your car sits in your garage in Timbuktu. If that is the case they will soon end up being looked at the same as the Alabama guys are.