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About vermontboy

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  • Birthday 04/01/1949

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  1. Liability is going to be an issue I would think. But hey, why worry.
  2. First - I agree with most of what was said and the necessity of dropping the pan, checking brakes, lights and all that. Second - we didn't know all that in the 60's (I was 12 to 16 or so and in the company of adults who should have known better). Our basic retrieval toolkit for garage finds was gasoline, water, fresh battery, hand tire pump, rope, chain or both. pair of license plates and a trailer if we could find one to borrow ( otherwise a piece of pipe to go with the chain and a couple of old tires to avoid bump damage ) ..... somehow always made it home. Youth and innocence - those were the days
  3. Interesting topic. To me "patina", whether we are talking about antiques, tools, furniture or automobiles exists on those items that have been used and cared for over the years. Well cared for guns develop a patina through constant cleaning and use - worn bluing, checkering smoothed through decades of handling, a butter smooth action through use. Old tools with wooden handles smooth and worn, sharpened to a fine edge - they become an extension of ones arms. Furniture with worn armrests and rails, stairs gently worn in the middle through a century of use. Cars with the paint worn down to the primer from polishing on curves and edges, controls worn smooth through use, real wood and leather showing the effects of decades of care - muted rather than fresh. My ideal of "patina" is felt as much as it seen seen, perhaps moreso. It cannot be replicated, once lost through misuse or attempts at duplication it is gone forever. Sorry for my long winded and somewhat idealistic description. Am I the only one who "feels" or "senses" patina?
  4. Hi Steve - just a couple of questions to get the ball rolling here and hopefully someone else will jump in. . Have you had the engine running and if so have you driven it for awhile or just on trial runs? Where is the crack located ? Metal can be welded or stitched, cylinders can be sleeved, etc. Old two or even four cylinder engines with gravity water systems are pretty forgiving.
  5. Are you going to use this as a daily driver or a drag racer - what do you hope to gain with headers or do you just like the looks and thought of them? Just curious.
  6. All of this is nothing new - when I was a kid I bought a copy of Classic Cars and Antiques by Gottlieb and Bowman (1952) - I was fascinated by a chapter on how to buy a classic car - just one example - lots of cobbed up details.
  7. " Since I am just learning about these old cars - I want to be able to do some general maintenance and fixes on my own. That is why I was thinking a newer engine may be better but as I explore learning it may not be." One of the biggest problems in working on someone else's engine conversion is knowing what else is changed and what parts were used. Has the transmission or rear end been changed - if so do you know the part numbers for them so if there is something wrong you can get parts easily. Have the brakes been changed - if so what spindles were used, were they kitted or modified for installation - what master cylinder and proportioning setup was used. was used? Are the springs/ / shocks original --- and etc etc edc. I speak from having helped friends in way over their head - good mechanics and they knew how to work on a 40 Ford (fil in the blanks) but were stymied when it was difficult to know what part that had been changed came from originally. No - I;m not that smart but two heads are much more than twice better than one - more like four times better than one .... If there is no documentation to all of the items that have been replaced either run or walk at a fast clip - what should take two hours will take two months.
  8. I'll take a stab at it but wait for someone who isn't trying to remember what things were like 60 years ago. To me it just looks like an overzealous use of any of the old style head gasket sealers - Indian Head (Permatex) or other goop. At least every Model "A" engine that I picked up back then had thick caramelized material around the head seam to the best of my memory.. I'll be interested to see how others memories remember.
  9. I think that part of the problem is that most of the younger mechanics are used to working flat rate where a good mechanic can do quality work and beat the clock - sometimes by a lot. That adds a variable amount to their pay which can often be substantial - Lets say at a minimum 50 hours pay for 40 hours worked. Guys that get fed the "good stuff" at a good shop can be in 6 figures. Working directly on a customer's car 40 hours work is 40 hours pay if they are honest. I had a great mechanic many year ago who charged by what the job was worth in his opinion. On one repair his wife said he was up half the night trying to find a short and he only charged me an hour's labor because that was his opinion of what the repair should have taken. Tough to make a living that way but he slept well and had more work than he could handle.
  10. Back to the dream car - nostalgia wins out and I guess it would be a 1933 Pierce Arrow Model 836 like my dad bought in 1960. If I remember correctly Ed said the 836 was nowhere near the car the V-12's were. My dad drove it over to Bernie Weiss' house when we first got it and Bernie said the same thing - "Jim - you should have bought a 12 - it's a lot more car." On the other hand I am sure the partial engine rebuild done in one stall of o 2 car unheated garage in January and February of a Rochester NY winter was a lot easier on the 8 than on a 12. I remember Ed did a comparison of the 31 and 32 Pierce 8's - would love to know how the 33 compares. From a practical standpoint a 31 Model "A" sport coupe like my first car would be more practical - I can fix almost anything blindfolded on that.
  11. This will give you some idea of the right amount of "plump" for a 1933 Pierce-Arrow. Original interior - pix taken with a Kodak Brownie back in '61.
  12. If the correct part is available just buy one ... I do understand your logic - honest, but after 60 years of amateur wrenching I have learned that if the factory changed the part there are other not so obvious changes and you will just break something else. There are a lot of Mopar vendors out there and my guess is a lot of nos fuel pumps - not chinese repro stuff. The last time I needed a starter for a Mopar 6 I bought one at a small town NAPA - still in the box and still wrapped. I imagine fuel pumps fall into that category. Mechanical parts for those Mopar straight 6's aren"t scarce - they didn't break often. Just my two cents
  13. " re-Babbitted connecting rods $1750 plus shipping both ways, ..." For comparison purposes here is the receipt for rebabbiting and boring to fit (crank was not turned) the rods for my dad's 1933 Model 836 in 1962.. they came back individually boxed and wrapped like little jewels.
  14. I don't think anything will be a bolt on installation - why do you need a synchro trans ?? Hint - none will have synchros on low gear. If shifting into low is the problem keep in mind that if there is any forward movement whatsoever that Dodge 6 will walk right up to speed in 2nd.... no need to shift into low unless you come to a complete stop or have to stop on hill.
  15. Very sad - When I was living in Syracuse I worked close to his business. His interest in early Syracuse ephemera extended beyond automotive items and he bought several non-automotive items from me over the years. He will be missed.