Restoration of Ford 1933/34 vs Ford 1930 Model A

[FrankWest107]

I am new to antique autos but have technical abilities. I am a retired watchmaker. My favorite car is the 1933 Ford, but I also like the 1930 Model A. I would like to purchase a car. But I would like to try to retore the car so that it is reliable and nice. It seems in my information search that working on the 1933 ford is in a different league than the Model A. What infor would you give to me.

The last thing I want to do is to buy a 1933 and find that it takes 50K to restore it, and not be able to do much of the work myself because the 1933 requires a master mechanic to do the work.

Edited August 29, 2013 by R W Burgess
Changed the smiley! Working on cars should be fun. (see edit history)

[Guest Bob Call]

Frank

Mechanically Ford did not evolve much from the Model A to the 33-34 Model 40. No fancy tools needed to work on either. Used and new reproduction parts are readly available for both. The difference will be the initial cost for a car and the cost of parts. A Model A will cost less and the cost of parts will be less in most cases. You can find restored Model A's for $15,000 to $25,000. A restored Model 40 can go as high as $50,000 or more. You can easily spend $40,000 restoring a Model 40. Model A would be a little less. Don't expect to recover what you spend on restoration. For that reason you might want to start by looking at restored Model A's and let someone else take the loss. Both of these models have extensive wood in the bodies. If you are a skilled woodworker it will not be a problem. If not, you will have to buy pre-cut wood kits and spend time to get them to fit properly.

I personally think the 1933 was the best looking of the 30's Fords.

Good luck

[FrankWest107]

Thanks for your comments, I get appreciate it. Let ask you this. Because of the age of these vehicles, if you want a car that you can drive often do you basically have to replace every worn and old part. Otherwise you can have a nice car, but it is the type of thing you will only use once a month?

[keiser31]

Thanks for your comments, I get appreciate it. Let ask you this. Because of the age of these vehicles, if you want a car that you can drive often do you basically have to replace every worn and old part. Otherwise you can have a nice car, but it is the type of thing you will only use once a month?

I have a 1931 Dodge Brothers coupe which is way more difficult to find parts for and it is my daily driver. If something breaks, I fix or replace it. It will be your decision to make as to whether or not you only use it once a month. Yes, every CRITICALLY worn part should be replaced or rebuilt in order to drive it more often. The "old" parts are o.k. as long as they don't hinder the performance of the vehicle or if you don't want a show car.

[Rusty_OToole]

Biggest difference between the Model A and the 33 -34 models is the V8 engine. It is more complicated and harder to work on but much better performance.

There are better cars, like the Chrysler line (Plymouth Dodge DeSoto Chrysler) and Studebaker. But they are not so popular or easy to get parts for.

Model A is a good beginner's car because they are simple, well known, and all parts are cheap and easy to get. On the down side they are kind of crude and slow. OK for tooling around at 30 - 40 MPH but that is about it. The V8 is a more modern faster car but still has solid axles front and rear and mechanical brakes. Some competitors had IFS, hydraulic brakes, full pressure engine oiling and insert bearings by the mid 30s.

[Rusty_OToole]

As to replacing old or worn parts. That is something you have to do with every car, new or old. If you start with a car that is in decent shape you should not have to do many repairs. On the other hand old cars require a lot more upkeep than newer ones, like more frequent oil changes, grease jobs, engine tune ups, brake adjustments (they are not self adjusting) battery service etc etc.

The old cars were built with this in mind. Most parts that require attention are easy to get at and the service is easy and cheap.

One example: oil bath air cleaners found on many old cars. Must be cleaned, washed in solvent and filled with (1/2 pint) of oil once a year or less. This costs maybe $5 bucks tops. If this is done, the air cleaner will last the life of the car. Compare this to the throw away filters on new cars that do not require service but cost up to $30 to replace.

Edited August 28, 2013 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[FrankWest107]

As to replacing old or worn parts. That is something you have to do with every car, new or old. If you start with a car that is in decent shape you should not have to do many repairs. On the other hand old cars require a lot more upkeep than newer ones, like more frequent oil changes, grease jobs, engine tune ups, brake adjustments (they are not self adjusting) battery service etc etc.

The old cars were built with this in mind. Most parts that require attention are easy to get at and the service is easy and cheap.

One example: oil bath air cleaners found on many old cars. Must be cleaned, washed in solvent and filled with (1/2 pint) of oil once a year or less. This costs maybe $5 bucks tops. If this is done, the air cleaner will last the life of the car. Compare this to the throw away filters on new cars that do not require service but cost up to $30 to replace.

I am retired and would only be using the vehicle for short drives each day. I do not want a show car that is never touched. I just don;t want to get stuck with a car that looks good but vreaks down every time I drive it into town.

I appreciate everone;s comments on here.

[ply33]

I am retired and would only be using the vehicle for short drives each day. I do not want a show car that is never touched. I just don;t want to get stuck with a car that looks good but vreaks down every time I drive it into town.

I appreciate everone;s comments on here.

A worn out car, of any era, will be unreliable.

By the Model A era and certainly by 1933 automobiles from pretty nearly any manufacturer were reliable if in reasonable shape. So I am mentally translating your desire into "it needs to be in good mechanical shape or can within my (unstated budget and abilities) be brought into good mechanical shape". Either the Model A or the '33 Ford could fit that as well as those of other, possibly less expensive, makes.

On last spring's 2100 mile trip to the national Plymouth show I packed my tool kit but no spare parts for my '33 Plymouth. Only roadside repair (actually hotel parking lot) was to tighten the bolt holding my front license plate on. On a short (approx 125 mile) tour the other week my repair kit, unused, was a cell phone and AAA card. I am sure that drivers of Model A and or early V8 Fords have similar experiences once they've worked out the kinks of a restoration or gone through to fix all the worn out parts on a car they are simply maintaining in current cosemetic condition.

Cars of that era do require more maintenance than a new car but can be reliable.

You might be interested in the experences of one Michigan fellow who decided to use a Model A as is everyday car for a year: 365 Days of A. Driving a car in everyday traffic including a Michigan winter is far harder on the car than the service most of us put on ours.

Edited August 28, 2013 by ply33 (see edit history)

[FrankWest107]

I will check that link.

I appreciate your comments.

I want an antique car but I want to be able to get it road worthy for daily use.

I do not want it to be kept underglass. If I am not going to run it, and make it part of my daily life I might as well get a full size photo of it and glue it to my garage wall.

[FrankWest107]

I guess with enough money to replace everything and maintain it you could drive anything.

But i am trying to get a handle on price range for model A vs 1933 v8

often there are model A selling for under 15K. and 1933 v8's for under 30k.

Such cars would you say usually require doubling that figure to rebuild into daily drivers?

[nickelroadster]

We don't know your abilities and all these old cars require considerably more repair and maintenance than a modern car. If you are prepared to have an occasional breakdown and be able to fix things by the side of the road so much the better. You should be able to get a car in reasonable enough shape to drive a fair amount but I would not count on everyday use. For recreational use , and occasional errands fine but I wouldn't count on making any important appointments with them. The more you drive them and the more you learn about them, the more confidence you will acquire in their use. A Model A would be the best choice for cost and simplicity reasons. If you have to get a mechanic every time something goes wrong, it will soon become way to expensive to enjoy.

[nickelroadster]

Your last post came as I was typing. A model A you get for $15000 if carefully bought could be a very good car. Chances are a 33 v8 for under $30000 would require a lot of work and would be more expensive to work on.

[FrankWest107]

Yes, it seems that the 1933 ford would require much more money to rebuild and more expert knowledge to work on. In the 1960's there were many books about fixing your own volkwagen beetle. But, I remember the volkswagen was never really an easy car to work on. It was simple but strange to workon.

[auburnseeker]

If you are concerned most with mechanics more than paint and chrome be sure the cars you look at have had extensive mechanical restoration or atleast very good maintenance. Instead of ads that say runs and stops, look for ads that boast engine rebuilt, new brakes, tires, wiring harness, Clutch or all new suspension bushings, tie rod ends etc. (these are all repairs that can add up fast and few in the show crowd worry about unless they plan to tour) That kind of ad will let you know the people were concerned with how the car drives possibly more than how it appears. They are also repairs that you rarely get a return on when you sell a car so that tells you they were making the car function well, not just pretty it up for sale. I find a car that boasts alot of mechanical work and looks good to boot is the right find all the way around.

I have always told friends to keep an open mind when looking for a car. Sometimes you will run across a super deal on a great looking old car that isn't the standard Ford Chevy. Of course some parts are a little hard to get but Mechanically speaking there are still alot of New Old Stock and replacement parts out there for one of the more common independents.

Good luck in your search.

[FrankWest107]

Great info. There are some 1933 chevys with 6 cylinder engines that are very inexpensive.

Maybe cheby parts are jarder to find. Would anyone reccomend step by step restoration books?

[West Peterson]

Both of these models have extensive wood in the bodies. If you are a skilled woodworker it will not be a problem. If not, you will have to buy pre-cut wood kits and spend time to get them to fit properly.

What???? Ford bodies have very little wood in them.

[DavidAU]

If you want a car that will reliably take you anywhere you want to go, at any time, at a reasonable pace then the 33 fills the bill.

Set up properly, these cars start easy, are easy to drive and will cover thousands and thousands of miles without a spanner being laid on them apart from regular maintenance.

The 33 is also a better investment in that eventually some time in the future, the car will be sold either by you or others and the 33 will be far easier to unload and they are ever increasing in price because of their popularity.

I'm not saying you will make money on one unless you can buy right in the first place but the chances of loosing money are less. The coupes, tudors and convertables are the most popular and therefore command higher prices.

[1937hd45]

The Model A Ford is a far better "Fisrt Old Car" than the 1933, you can afford to restore an A. Entry level cars would differ greatly price wise. Bob

[Restorer32]

a

If you are concerned most with mechanics more than paint and chrome be sure the cars you look at have had extensive mechanical restoration or atleast very good maintenance. Instead of ads that say runs and stops, look for ads that boast engine rebuilt, new brakes, tires, wiring harness, Clutch or all new suspension bushings, tie rod ends etc. (these are all repairs that can add up fast and few in the show crowd worry about unless they plan to tour) That kind of ad will let you know the people were concerned with how the car drives possibly more than how it appears. They are also repairs that you rarely get a return on when you sell a car so that tells you they were making the car function well, not just pretty it up for sale. I find a car that boasts alot of mechanical work and looks good to boot is the right find all the way around.

I have always told friends to keep an open mind when looking for a car. Sometimes you will run across a super deal on a great looking old car that isn't the standard Ford Chevy. Of course some parts are a little hard to get but Mechanically speaking there are still alot of New Old Stock and replacement parts out there for one of the more common independents.

I take exception to your statement that "these are all repairs that can add up fast and few in the show crowd worry about unless they plan to tour". That has not been our experience at all nor have I ever judged a show where I saw any indication that a car was not mechanically restored though some admittedly have not been driven enough to work out all the bugs. Dealers may "cosmetically restore" cars just to sell them but you give far to little credit to the "show crowd" in my opinion.

Good luck in your search.

[Restorer32]

I take exception to your statement that "these are all repairs that can add up fast and few in the show crowd worry about unless they plan to tour". That has not been our experience at all. Some dealers may "restore" cars cosmetically for sale but you give way to little credit to the "show crowd" in my opinion.

in

a

[Rusty_OToole]

There is another angle on this. Sometimes you buy what seems to be a good car but it has been out of commission for several years. As soon as you start to drive it the breakdowns start. You think O boy I got a lemon. Not necessarily true. Most of the parts failures are minor and not hard to fix, like a plugged up fuel filter or maybe a bad water pump. Once you fix these things you go on to a period of trouble free motoring.It's just that you have to fix up the things that went bad while the car was sitting around.

A good way to deal with this is to plan a few easy trips of longer and longer distances. One day you might drive 10 miles, stop for coffee, and go home. Next day, 20 miles, working up to a 50 or 100 mile trip. After each trip generally check things over for oil leaks, loose parts, bulgy rad hoses, and the like. By the time you get to taking a worry free 100 mile trip everything should be in good shape.

Tires are often overlooked. All tires deteriorate with time, the experts at the tire companies say a tire loses half its strength after 5 years. For this reason they recommend you replace tires over 5 years old, no matter how good they look. Good advice for a car that is going to be driven a lot. Even though if everyone followed this rule, a lot of good tires would be thrown away.

Edited August 29, 2013 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

I agree that the Model A is about the simplest and easiest to manage collector car and that decent examples can be bought reasonable.

But if you really want a 33, and can afford a nice one, go ahead and buy one. They are very much like a Model A mechanically except for the V8 engine. One good thing about any vintage Ford is that all parts are available and they are one of the most popular collector cars, with plenty of support and knowledgeable people in the hobby.

[Dave Henderson]

West, regarding your comment that Model A bodies don't have much wood, it depends on the body. For an example, the 4 door cars prior to the 1931 "slant windshield" ones were loaded with wood, and even had a wooden sub frame, as did the Victoria and cabriolet too. Looking at a Model A supplier's catalog such as Bratton's or Snyder's, one can see what it would cost to re-wood one of these bodies. It amounts to a sizeable sum, not to mention a laborious task.

[auburnseeker]

I take exception to your statement that "these are all repairs that can add up fast and few in the show crowd worry about unless they plan to tour". That has not been our experience at all. Some dealers may "restore" cars cosmetically for sale but you give way to little credit to the "show crowd" in my opinion.

in

I posted that from personal experience and lengthy discussions with a friend who has lived his whole life under the hood of cars, professionally For Cadillac and privately as half of the team that ran a NHRA drag racing team that held several records.

He now repairs old cars in his retirement and stops often just to shoot the breeze about old cars as I always have something unusual to discuss with him.

He constantly has people at shows circling around him asking him about all kinds of problems and how to fix them. Many have beautiful cars and often have problems because not everything was restored although under the hood was refreshed and looks new.

I've heard all kinds of problems in the last few years from him. Some involve upgrades because the parts were not compatible but others were cars that looked restored until you dug really deep and got it up on a lift, then found out all kinds of problems with steering, suspension, Cooling issues, etc. One even had a pretty freshly professionally rebuilt motor that had improper assembly and starved the valve train for oil. I saw this vehicle in person it was just short of spectacular. My Dad even purchased a Ford truck with a freshly rebuilt flathead engine. Receipts of 4000 for the engine came with it. It had 100 miles on it when the bearings went out of it.

We pulled the engine from a very nice looking frame off restored 35 Ford Woody a few years back that had gorgeous paint, Wood, chrome, interior but a tired engine that was good enough when they restored the car.

I bought a 36 Plymouth coupe a while back as well that looked original on the outside, Everything under the hood was spotless and looked to have been freshly restored. It looked like it just came off the show field. Well 50 lbs of compression on every cylinder lead to an immediate engine rebuild. I know of several guys in the wood boat world with some pretty nice 30's-50's vintage Chris Crafts and Garwood that look spectacular but require a paddle to make it back to the dock every time they go out. I've been under those hatch doors more than once and usually the engine is just tired. Some people spend all their money making the vehicle look spectacular then run out of money when it comes to the mechanics so they just try to get by with what they have.

My Plymouth convertible is a good example as well. They rebuilt the engine when they did the car but never touched the steering. It had 9 inches of play in the steering box. Yes that's 9 inches. As well as really bad king pins. I bought it knowing the issue but that car when it was finished had all new paint and interior.

A friend up the road is fixing a 1960 Fuel injected Corvette like mine right now. The guy he's working on it for has put a new nose on it, all new chrome, paint, interior, weatherstriping, etc and the mechanics haven't been touched. I haven't heard it run but I have been told it runs terrible. This car however looks spectacular. The guy does super nice work and is really fussy, but you only do what the customer wants. Some value driving it other value it looking good, Some value both.

I just want to point out what's out there the good and the bad.

I think there was recently a thread on here about a 40's Ford pickup that was all restored but had loads of issues.

I didn't mean to say all restored cars are thrown together without Mechanical restoration. Most I'm sure have had extensive mechanical restoration along with everything else but I just wanted to point out possible things to look for when FrankWest107 starts looking for his car especially if he wants it for touring.

I always get a kick out of the people who post cars that are freshly restored with a photo of the car at the latest car show with a huge antifreeze puddle and stream running away from it.

[Pete O]

Biggest difference between the Model A and the 33 -34 models is the V8 engine. It is more complicated and harder to work on but much better performance.

There are better cars, like the Chrysler line (Plymouth Dodge DeSoto Chrysler) and Studebaker. But they are not so popular or easy to get parts for.

Model A is a good beginner's car because they are simple, well known, and all parts are cheap and easy to get. On the down side they are kind of crude and slow. OK for tooling around at 30 - 40 MPH but that is about it. The V8 is a more modern faster car but still has solid axles front and rear and mechanical brakes. Some competitors had IFS, hydraulic brakes, full pressure engine oiling and insert bearings by the mid 30s.

Rusty, I think you'r thinking of a Model T. Any Model A that will only tool around at 30-40 MPH has something seriously wrong with it. My Model As will happily do 50 MPH all day long, and they are dead stock.

"Better" is a very subjective term. Sure, Chryslers and Studebakers probably had more advanced features than a Model A. But I'd bet that a higher percentage of Model As have survived than any Chrysler or Studebaker. To me, that's an indication of a better car. I also am somewhat put off by the folks who dismiss Model As as a good starter car. Like it's something to be practiced on and then tossed aside when you're ready for a "real" car. That's snobbery and baloney. Model A's are the most popular pre-war collector car there is. The two national Model A clubs are the largest single model clubs on the face of the planet. There are local clubs everywhere, and belonging to a local club with other cars just like your own and other owners with the same likes as you enhances your ownership experience so much. Go to any multi make car show, and the number of Model A's outnumber any other single make- they are that popular. The documentation available to restore a Model A is unrivaled by any other collector car. The Model A Restoration and Judging Standards, published by the two national clubs, is incredibly detailed. No guesswork on the correct finish for every nut and bolt on the car!

The '33 (and '34) are perhaps the most beautiful models Ford ever built, and I would love to own one. But I'd never give up my Model As to get one.

[Restorer32]

I agree, lots of genius in a Model A Ford.

[ply33]

Great info. There are some 1933 chevys with 6 cylinder engines that are very inexpensive.

Maybe cheby parts are jarder to find. Would anyone reccomend step by step restoration books?

You've started by asking questions which is exactly the right thing to do. And you are following up by asking about books, another correct thing. Unfortunately, the books I like are out of print but I am sure someone else will chime in with currently available books.

If you become interested in a specific car, especially if its not a Ford, you might also look for make specific information on it. I say especially if not a Ford because it seems everything for Ford cars of that era is documented and while some parts might be expensive they are generally available.

By 1933 some makes were using modern style thin shell bearings through out the engine with full pressure lubrication. Others were still using poured babbit bearings and splash lubrication. Both can be rebuilt but the former will be more familiar to modern rebuilders with parts ordered from the warehouse while the later will require specialty services.

Some makes were using hydraulic brakes while others were using mechanical brakes. Both can work but the skill set for adjusting and repairing is slightly different.

Some makes were using all steel bodies while others were still wood framed. Both can be restored but the skill set needed for a wood framed body is different than that of a more modern steel body.

All makes changed trim items during the yearly model changes. Some makes are more popular now so vendors are reproducing those parts. Others are less common or less popular and finding good condition trim parts can be difficult.

These are the types things you might be wanting to look into before commiting to buy a specific car.

[West Peterson]

West, regarding your comment that Model A bodies don't have much wood, it depends on the body. For an example, the 4 door cars prior to the 1931 "slant windshield" ones were loaded with wood, and even had a wooden sub frame, as did the Victoria and cabriolet too. Looking at a Model A supplier's catalog such as Bratton's or Snyder's, one can see what it would cost to re-wood one of these bodies. It amounts to a sizeable sum, not to mention a laborious task.

Thanks, Dave

My apologies to Bob. I guess I was thinking more about the '33 than the Model A.

[Guest bkazmer]

at the risk of drawing the wrath of Fordophiles, both cars, compared to their contemporaries, offer "trailing edge" technology for the time but extremely easy parts availability today. Because of their popularity, both have a market value above that of their direct competitors.

[Paul Dobbin]

Back to te original question, Model A or a 33 or 34 Ford for a fun first car?

My first real antique was a 34 Ford, although I was looking for a Model A at the time. (Uninformed and young) Later I bought and restored a few Model A's but continued the love of the 34 Fords to this day. REASON: Driveability & comfort!

Now after 41 years of 34 Fords, I still love them. Restoration costs? About the same as a Model A. Resale? Better than Model A's.

Technical/Mechanical ability required? About the same. Both have National Clubs devoted to them, but there are a lot more Model A owners out there both nationally and locally to help you.

Would I buy another Model A, No. Another 34 V8, sure thing. However I hope I don't buy any basket cases of either. Best bet is to step up in price and buy a completely operable car and then work on making it better. The fun of driving a less than perfect car is way more than the fun a non usable trophy queen or an unfinished garage project nightmare.

Then, DRIVE IT!

[FrankWest107]

Back to te original question, Model A or a 33 or 34 Ford for a fun first car?

My first real antique was a 34 Ford, although I was looking for a Model A at the time. (Uninformed and young) Later I bought and restored a few Model A's but continued the love of the 34 Fords to this day. REASON: Driveability & comfort!

Now after 41 years of 34 Fords, I still love them. Restoration costs? About the same as a Model A. Resale? Better than Model A's.

Technical/Mechanical ability required? About the same. Both have National Clubs devoted to them, but there are a lot more Model A owners out there both nationally and locally to help you.

Would I buy another Model A, No. Another 34 V8, sure thing. However I hope I don't buy any basket cases of either. Best bet is to step up in price and buy a completely operable car and then work on making it better. The fun of driving a less than perfect car is way more than the fun a non usable trophy queen or an unfinished garage project nightmare.

Then, DRIVE IT!

Thanks for the info.

As far as price.

can an acceptable non basket case drivable 1933/34 be had for approx 30k.

[ply33]

Thanks for the info.

As far as price.

can an acceptable non basket case drivable 1933/34 be had for approx 30k.

Yikes! You could get two 33 or 34 non-basket case Plymouths with similar period styling for that price. And you'd have an engine with modern thin shell insert bearings through out, hydraulic brakes, etc. too. Wouldn't have quite the support or vendor network however.

[Rusty_OToole]

Possibly the best buy for a fun car and driver, would be an original or older restoration 4 door sedan that looks presentable but is obviously not a show car.

This would be a #3 or #4 condition car, by the Old Car Price Guide. A #3 is a car that looks good from 20 feet away but if you look close it shows its age. A #4 is even worse but complete and runs but needs work, could be an older restoration or bad amateur restoration or original with pitted chrome, worn paint, torn upholstery etc.

Value for a 33 sedan #3 $17,500 #4 $11,250. For a 34, a few hundred or a thousand higher.

A 35 or 36, about the same with the 35 being a little cheaper than the 36.

If you don't mind a 37 38 or 39 they are cheaper at about $9500 - $4500 for a 2 door or 4 door sedan.

A 40 Ford for some reason is a couple thousand more than a 39.

These are all cars that are in good enough shape to drive right away with little or no restoration at least, no major repairs.

[FrankWest107]

Possibly the best buy for a fun car and driver, would be an original or older restoration 4 door sedan that looks presentable but is obviously not a show car.

This would be a #3 or #4 condition car, by the Old Car Price Guide. A #3 is a car that looks good from 20 feet away but if you look close it shows its age. A #4 is even worse but complete and runs but needs work, could be an older restoration or bad amateur restoration or original with pitted chrome, worn paint, torn upholstery etc.

Value for a 33 sedan #3 $17,500 #4 $11,250. For a 34, a few hundred or a thousand higher.

A 35 or 36, about the same with the 35 being a little cheaper than the 36.

If you don't mind a 37 38 or 39 they are cheaper at about $9500 - $4500 for a 2 door or 4 door sedan.

A 40 Ford for some reason is a couple thousand more than a 39.

These are all cars that are in good enough shape to drive right away with little or no restoration at least, no major repairs.

Thanks guys, I very much appreciate this info. You saved me a fortune. I only want a car to drive several miles each day and would be to afraid to drive a perfect car. I want something that is original even if it is a little weathered. In fact I do not want it totally restored, I perfer to sit in the original interior even if old and seedee looking.

Where do i go about finding such a car? Auctions?

You are right about the plymouth, I nearly bought one for 6K it looked almost like the ford, but I was worried about getting parts?

Anyway, your help has reset me to look, look and look. I only want something that will be interesting and fun and not a prestine pain in the neck.

[auburnseeker]

Watch these forums for cars for sale and I would grab the latest issue of Hemmings. Better yet look online at Hemmings and search ebay for one. A wanted ad on your local craigslist might not be a bad choice either. You never know what you will turn up.

[Rusty_OToole]

The best answer is to watch the ads and look at some cars. If you can find a knowledgeable local old car guy to go along so much the better.

Join the AACA and you may find what you want through the old boys grape vine. Or, check out Kijiji, Hemmings, and other advertising. I don't like auctions because you don't get a chance to talk to the owner, the auctioneer can sock you with a buyer's premium and it is easy to get carried away and pay too much.

Anyone who prefers to buy at auctions is free to chip in. It may just be me, but I prefer to buy from a private owner not an auctioneer or dealer.

Looking and shopping is half the fun. It is not like going to a dealer and signing on the dotted line. It will be educational for you.

And in your search if you happen on a great car at a great price but it is not a Ford that may be the one to buy. It pays to be open minded, you never know your luck.

Start by buying your own Old Cars Price Guide. It is a monthly publication carried by most magazine and book stores in the car magazine section. Price $5.99.

You only need a new one once a year or so, prices do not change that radically from month to month.

Edited September 30, 2013 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[GLong]

The only time to buy at an auction is if you know the car make and model you are bidding on very well, had a chance to look it over and under, start it and at least drive it forward and backward a car length or two.

I like to buy at auctions, every now and then, a car is sold with no or low reserve, and there just wasn't anyone in the crowd that was interested in the car, so it sells cheap.

Otherwise, buying from the owner is the best way, you get the car's history, and get to drive it a lot more.

I suggest you find all the local car club chapters, Ford, Chevy, etc etc. join several clubs, look through the club rosters. you may be surprised to find many old car collectors near you, who would be glad to assist you in finding a good car, and sharing their experiences.

As for restoring a car, I'd follow the advice given previously to buy an older restoration. The work has been done, it's no longer a garage or trailer queen, it is now a nice driver. Buy one and drive it and enjoy it.

The only way to find 'your' car is to go out and shop, drive and look and listen.. You may buy and sell a few cars, and change makes and models, but you will be learning all the time.. And knowledge is the key to owning and keeping an old car on the road, and key to enjoying the car.

Good luck with your pursuit. Fill in your profile, let us know where you are located, you may get some really good recommendations..

For one: if you are in the Northeast, head over to Hershey Pennsylvania for the AACA national meet the 8th thru 12th of October, a very large 'car corral' of cars for sale, and a very large swap meet to see what can be had for old cars..

There are events virtually every weekend just about all year long.. lots of places to learn about cars.

Greg L

[Guest prs519]

It sounds like you are considering buying, say, a good used car a number 3 or 4, and are concernced many components will not be in trustworthy status. I presume you have repaired watches, using common sense, replacing parts that needed replacing, yet remembering -- 'if it aint broke, don't fix it". One reason car restorations are so expensive is that the owner or restorer will not accept anything less than "like new" in all aspects. If you can buy a car documented as having been restored to that standard (for a reasonable price), I think you should be in duck heaven! Components of both Model A and Model 40 Fords can be far away from "like new", yet still be very serviceable for any reasonable length of time. This includes all the power train components. In the event you buy one of these seemingly good "drivers", I would suggest someone knowledgable in cars, and model A or r40s in particular to test drive, listen, look, and take a look at the oil and water in major components. Things that come simple to you as a watchmaker, will come simple for your test man....loose front end, overheating on the test drive, gear noise and other noise, and slack in any areas which should not have slack, the smoke test (the Lucas test, ho), puddles under the car and obvious rot rust or corrosion. All these things are simple and virtually costless to inventory, and they are basic and simple. If you receive a good report just on the ones I have mentioned, you should have a pretty good car. Keep in mind that even "good"cars develop problems, though. Not as for which one, I would choose the 1933 for the reason that it should be safer in modern traffic. It is on the low marginal side of pep, but quite a bit quicker than a Model A. Two other things I did not mention..look closely for broken leafs in the leaf spring stacks, slack in the kingpins, and the condition of the braking system as proved in actionl. JMHO Perry

[FrankWest107]

It sounds like you are considering buying, say, a good used car a number 3 or 4, and are concernced many components will not be in trustworthy status. I presume you have repaired watches, using common sense, replacing parts that needed replacing, yet remembering -- 'if it aint broke, don't fix it". One reason car restorations are so expensive is that the owner or restorer will not accept anything less than "like new" in all aspects. If you can buy a car documented as having been restored to that standard (for a reasonable price), I think you should be in duck heaven! Components of both Model A and Model 40 Fords can be far away from "like new", yet still be very serviceable for any reasonable length of time. This includes all the power train components. In the event you buy one of these seemingly good "drivers", I would suggest someone knowledgable in cars, and model A or r40s in particular to test drive, listen, look, and take a look at the oil and water in major components. Things that come simple to you as a watchmaker, will come simple for your test man....loose front end, overheating on the test drive, gear noise and other noise, and slack in any areas which should not have slack, the smoke test (the Lucas test, ho), puddles under the car and obvious rot rust or corrosion. All these things are simple and virtually costless to inventory, and they are basic and simple. If you receive a good report just on the ones I have mentioned, you should have a pretty good car. Keep in mind that even "good"cars develop problems, though. Not as for which one, I would choose the 1933 for the reason that it should be safer in modern traffic. It is on the low marginal side of pep, but quite a bit quicker than a Model A. Two other things I did not mention..look closely for broken leafs in the leaf spring stacks, slack in the kingpins, and the condition of the braking system as proved in actionl. JMHO Perry

Thanks! This is a great help!

[Rusty_OToole]

Another thing... a car that looks beautiful with new chrome, paint, upholstery may not run any better than a worn shabby looking one. Restoration work is expensive and a lot of guys spend the money on appearance while neglecting the mechanical aspects. A show winner may have an engine on its last legs or worn out brakes but who cares, they can push it on the trailer.