Dave Henderson

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Everything posted by Dave Henderson

  1. Nice finds. The speedster, by Wyandotte, originally came with flat-faced bulbs.that screwed into the projections on each side of the grille panel. I was fortunate to bum several of them from a friend some years back. A single "D" cell, secured underneath by a stiff wire lit the lights when the switch handle on the passenger side was pulled back. Special features like this enhanced the play value and brought joy to young lads, at least until the battery ran down.
  2. I believe this is an XK 140 coupe, ca. '55-'57, with its short boot (trunk) lid being the clue.
  3. Everything you will need to change from disc wheels to wires: 5 wheels with good splines 4 hubs with good splines 4 drums 4 knockoffs 2 rear fender beads $1,000. I have some duplicates if some separate pieces are needed. Please pm me. Dave
  4. Here are a couple more, by Fawcett and Trend that I previously mentioned.
  5. Some of the great bargain books were the paperback books such as Ballantine's Illustrated History of the Car marque books series from the '70's @ $1, and the Fawcett and Trend Publications of the '50's @ 75 cents!
  6. Info on Ralph Stein including an archive obituary is available if you google him. He passed in 1994 at 85 years.
  7. The hood side trim smacks of '34 Chrysler. The fenders may have been fashioned from Chrysler's, too.
  8. The MoToR Specification Table book gives serial numbers for Chalmers from 1913 through 1922. The starting 1913 serial number was 25301, thus your plate must have come from an earlier vehicle. Incidentally, I have an extra copy of this excellent reference book which has minor silver fish damage. In addition to the serial number info it provides voluminous specifications for 1918 thru 1924 American cars , and I will offer it for $20, including stateside postage. PM me if interested.
  9. # 4 might also be a chevy, it almost looks like the trim line that goes from the hood's side downward into the middle of the door is there.
  10. 1) '33-'34 Ford, 2) '38 Chevy, 3) 36 Dodge, 4) '37 Pontiac?
  11. I was a high school kid in '47 and worked part time as a grease monkey in a one-stall do-everything shop at a gas station. When my boss went out of business he swept a pile of tools up on the floor and told me to take any I wanted. I'm still using Bonney, Proto, Williams, Craftsman, Herbrand and Vlchek wrenches from that pile. The Craftsman 1/2" ratchet I got was prewar, and broke in '52. Sears gave me a new one which I'm still using. The quality of Craftsman tools and exchange policies are iffy today. I returned a 3/8 ratchet that broke to Sears and instead of exchanging it the clerk made me wait around for a half hour while he put a new part in it, and guess what..... it broke too.
  12. The rear hinged doors both front and back are rather compelling evidence it may be a Hudson, ca. '28, the bumper looks about right too. I do have some question about the abrupt drop off at the rear of the right front fender. Perhaps it was an option to make room for a tool box on the running board?
  13. Keiser, Very sharp to spot that hood handle, I hadn't noticed the tiny dot. With a center handle it's a '33, '34's had 2.
  14. MoToR Specification Tables show these serial number locations for Studebaker up thru 1920; front seat heel board, front door pocket, front toe board, inside dash. There is no mention of a "chassis" number.
  15. While they may have been on a '34, I believe the wheels may be from a Chevy or Pontiac beginning '37. Is your measurement from where the bead fits? That's where the tire and wheel size is determined. I'm thinking they may be '16"ers.
  16. If using enamel, a dust free environment is especially important because of the drying time. If working inside, vacuum dust and make the area as clean as possible, thenallow time for any remaining dust to settle. Take precautions to protect places where overspray would do harm. Dampen the floor and move around the least amount possible to minimize the sturring up of dust. Don't open or close the door if it goes overhead, to prevent dust from dropping because of vibrations. If outside, do it under an easy-up canopy if one is available. Spraying nearby grassy areas with insecticide helps keeping bugs from getting into the paint. Be sure to have plenty of light.
  17. 1932 calendar year production 30,216. 1932 registrations 28,111. Source; The production Figure Book for U.S. Cars by Jerry Heasley.
  18. If it in fact is stainless which it probably is, and you do wish to proceed with polishing it on a stationary mounted wheel, consider sanding it first if there are any prominent scratches. Otherwise it will take quite a long time to get down to where they disappear. Start with about wet 220 and work up to 400 or even finer grit, then begin with black stainless compound and work on through the white compound. If the part gets too hot to hold, don't be tempted to put a rag around it to hold it while continuing polishing, the wheel can catch the rag, and you, and maul you. Blue compound comes last to brighten the reflection. Do practice on a junk part beforehand as Terry suggests.
  19. 2nd from the left looks like a "33-"34 Ford, last on the right on the lower level is a '28-'29 Model A Ford roadster.
  20. I never met Don Summers but was always impressed by his superb craftsmanship. In 2002 he produced a beautiful handcrafted fired-from-porcelain commemorative license plate celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Auburn Cord Duesenberg Club which was available at the ACD Club reunion which is always held over Labor Day weekend, thus occurring always during the FIRST WEEKEND of the month..... Read carefully. To err is only human.
  21. Now we have rear window stickers, available for a donation.
  22. "36 Reo Flying Cloud