Pete O

Found this old thread discussing the part numbers for the main bearings in your engine. Might be of help:

Mark is correct. I'm not the seller. I just saw this on ebay and posted the link for you.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/186037534360?itmmeta=01HTMTD98QP0T22P7H2PRYTCKV&hash=item2b50b37e98:g:TPUAAOSwapVk3Jpz&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4Mw%2FTK78ZGX6vX3UL184S%2BDjB9Djul5aq%2BxwgdSQE9%2BJlwoNc%2BmMd%2F8hOlIHBpYvjVvpJ0LkzGvpRp3uWAALl%2FgeHTMFXsWpZvOrrqVI7%2FhVMrxm022BKFKNk0t%2FQWK7uMgQk8%2Fhe4APEXNk0GvOja15ai70PA7rBPCpy97cjxoWS%2BXOuAhy4nSrmzl%2B7b0UMUMnz5isrNEQS528gkjsab0gLwyH8UqiLVhsKaXTryoROhyn%2FJhkskgPhVx63W41jSqwF2sk%2Fly2z0qKwTqAF9Vd8pMypQ%2BHFd1BQs5VcEwt|tkp%3ABFBMvpS1mtVj

There slides and pins in the hood latches that wear and get sloppy and don't click smartly into place when the wear happens. I had to build up with weld and dremel it smooth one of the slides (or channels or notches or whatever they're called that the pin rides in.)

What, two guys and one gal? 😁

These diagrams are from the master parts book. You can get a copy on CD or USB from https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1952-1953-buick-factory-shop-manuals-cd.html When you find the part you need from the diagram, you can look up the part number. For example, on the diagram that shows the whole assembly, part A, the key describes it as RAIL, folding top side roof (front) in group number 14.100. You then hop on over to the part number lists in group 14.100. You look up your Fisher Body style number and/or year and model number under that part description to find the part number.

Loose backing plate?

The only way this could be happening is if the transmission slipped from neutral into gear. There are detentes on the shifter rails into which spring loaded plungers with ball shaped ends apply pressure. This gives you the resistance and the "snick snick" as you move the shift lever between gears. Do you have any resistance when you move the lever into a gear? Could be your plungers or rails are worn or the springs are broken.

"There is spark through the coil and into the distributor but, there is no spark to any of the plugs." Make sure the center lead from the coil to the cap is seated fully on both ends. If so, take the distributor cap off and have someone crank the car over. Watch if the rotor spins. If it does, check the condition of the contacts on the rotor and the distributor cap. Look for corrosion. Check the graphite "dimple" center contact in the distributor cap. These can crack and fall out and you won't have any continuity for the high voltage through the rotor. If the rotor doesn't spin, you have big problems, perhaps a stripped camshaft gear or distributor drive gear.

I've attached the wiring diagram. It looks like the neutral safety switch traces back to the fuse block and shares the same fuse as the back-up (or reversing) lights or maybe it is the directional signal fuse (I can't tell for sure from the diagram. Maybe check those fuses to see if you burned out the fuse while replacing the neutral safety switch? You may have let the wire touch some metal under the dashboard.

IMHO, Going bankrupt does not just come on instantly. The owner had to have seen this coming quite a while ago. If they saw the business failing, it was unethical for them to continue to take in new work and take deposits. No money left in the business to return work in house? If the owner has any honor left in him, he would use his personal savings to make sure his customers items are returned.

There are antique tools available on ebay to spread the split rim. You can get them for less than $100.00 Here's one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/225839993003?hash=item34951cd0ab:g:Kp4AAOSw0m9lNzvk&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4GPJrOrkcjpjzMi%2BsFLv%2BjMBVHUDj67ejTHr0EwN7X7iLV5YN2GzVVzyQ9zlhLGnO2ucolKjGuLEYL6MvQE9xljwm82TAPWfHaw3xoOLNwUfmT%2Bo1QEdaiFNzlW58KeIeLn0fdcILbweGY44%2FvAtCcmCX3JIS%2BrRom%2F3Xzn%2BgOfkMhg5tUpEYbWD5CKGBxrEm0%2BhOFz%2BgDnGQ6ob%2F9L0QZtGyd9z95EbaZvPP0NfyktJw87eA2kRmA8O6s5c0kNNDHEw1wj6HEUOnbbAoGV5xd0ukxmJZvEqnu9s0t1YtWQ7|tkp%3ABFBMnOvu74tj

On my 51 Super, the pump/reservoir is located on the passenger side behind the front wheel inner fender. You can catch a glimpse of it from the engine bay, but you can't reach it from there. You have to get at it from below.

Is the chromed metal that surrounds the ashtray opening made of potmetal? Potmetal tends to swell over time because of the zinc in it is susceptible to zinc rot (from wikipedia : Zinc pest (from German Zinkpest), also known as zinc rot and zamak rot, is a destructive, intercrystalline corrosion process of zinc alloys containing lead impurities.[1] While impurities of the alloy are the primary cause of the problem, environmental conditions such as high humidity (greater than 65%) may accelerate the process). If the metal has swelled it may have closed the opening down enough to get the tray caught in it. Maybe file the opening down a little if that seems to be where the ashtray is hanging up?

If you have an original distributor in the old girl, a known trouble spot is the short wire below the upper distributor plate that connects the lower plate to the stud on the points. Old cracked insulation can short the voltage to ground before it gets to the points. Also, look at the connector on the end of that wire and make sure it is not making contact with any part of the upper plate besides the stud on the points, or with the body of the distributor when the upper plate is installed.