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Pete O

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Everything posted by Pete O

  1. That bumper is mounted way too low. The light blue painted area around the grill looks like the raised panel area you can see clearly in the picture zepher posted. You can see maybe 1 -1/2 inches of the panel above the corner of the bumper in zepher's picture. But in the blue car, you can see maybe 3-4 inches of that raised area. I'd bet that the bumper brackets might have been switched right to left and turned upside down.
  2. Some romanticize the memory of the mud fields.... All I remember was how hard it was to walk through that slop and how it permanently stained anything it came in contact with. The paved fields are so so much better.
  3. If it's the left front all the time regardless of hubcap or wheel, I wonder if maybe you're front driver's brakes are dragging a little, causing the drum and wheel to heat up and expand?
  4. Easy to test if the carb linkage is out of adjustment. Remove wires from carb starter switch. Using multimeter or test light, with the throttle closed, there should be no continuity between the terminals on the switch. Open the throttle, and there should be continuity. The service manual describes how to adjust the linkage to get the right clearances for the switch to operate properly.
  5. Pete O

    old oil

    What about putting it in a barbecue grill on a low heat for some time? Might soften up the goop enough to allow you to drain it out.
  6. I don't have a picture, but I suspect that the routing of the cables is probably the same as my '51 Buick. The Buick service manual has this description of the cable routing: "When connecting the transmission cables to the drive shaft lever, attach the right hand end of the cable to the upper end of the drive shaft lever, and attach the left hand end to lower end of lever. Pass the right hand loop of cable over the upper pulley on cable tensioner and pass the left hand loop over the lower pulley. While holding cables in pulleys, apply slight pressure to cable tensioner ratchet spring and ro
  7. Those virtue signaling morons have already switched over to mostly wind and solar, which is why they have rolling blackouts when it goes over 90 degrees. They forgot that sometimes the wind doesn't blow and that the sun goes down at night. If you blanketed the entire state of California with solar panels, it would not produce enough juice to run all those electric cars they want to have. Perhaps if they just added the electric eels....
  8. Wow! The body style sure does look like that photo from the Henry Ford museum of the 1902 runabout! The front and rear suspensions look different- your photos show the axles being supported by semi elliptic springs that run longitudinally front to back. The HF Museum photo shows full elliptic springs at each of the 4 wheels. But remember, these pre 1903 cars were ALL prototypes, so differences from one to the next are to be expected. Are there any remnants (bolt holes, brackets, etc.) of how the original engine might have been mounted? Any markings on the chassis?
  9. The only way to watch ANY tv show nowadays is to DVR it, and speed through the crap. The only thing I (used to) watch live is sports.
  10. Kevan, Would it be possible for you to post a picture of your car? I'd love to see it!
  11. That picture in the concetpcarz website is one of the early race cars that made a name for Henry Ford. That car is know as the Sweepstakes car, and is the one that he raced in and beat Alexander Winton in 1901. That 1902 ford in the henryford website is a prototype that never went on sale. Cadillac was formed from the remains of the second Ford car company, The Henry Ford Company. The Cadillac Model A of 1903 was based on the body and chassis design Ford was working on when he abandoned that company. Henry Leland went on to design and build the one cylinder engine that was used in the
  12. I do not believe based on what I have read that Ford built any cars that were sold to the public during his first two attempts to form a company from 1899-1902: The Detroit Automobile Company and the Henry Ford Company. Prototypes were built, and Ford essentially used these companies as a means to develop and refine the car that eventually went into production in 1903 in his third and final attempt to form a company, The Ford Motor Company. If any of the prototypes still exist, they are in museums.
  13. Dodge Brothers manufactured the Ford designed engines (and frames) under contract for Ford. Ford didn't actually make their own engines until the 1907 Models N, R and S.
  14. You might want to try these guys: http://earlyfordregistry.com/ This is for Pre-Model T fords 1903- 1909 (it actually includes really early Model Ts too) Did you mean to say 1902 Ford? The first model from the Ford Motor Company was the 1903 Model A. There's a user forum that you can sign up for, and post a want ad. FYI, a few years ago, I did see a complete Ford Model C engine for sale at the Hershey swap meet. I don't remember exactly how much the guy was asking for it, but do remember it wasn't cheap! The Model C engine is a sl
  15. The stroke is the same on the 248 and the 263 (the difference in displacement is in the bore), so I imagine they are interchangeable. I do not know of an adapter to make a dynaflow crank fit with a manual transmission. It seems that any sort of adapter would have to move the flywheel out of position. CORRECTION- I checked my parts manual, and there is a different part number for the manual trans crank from 1939-1949 series 40 and 50 (1321354) and from 1950-1953 series 40 and 50 (1339816), so it looks like these will not interchange. But note that the cranks are used in both t
  16. I'm not exactly sure how to read this. Is this saying that the spacer 1338263 fits ALL series for the years 1950 thru 1952, and then in 1953 series 40 and 50 only, and then 1954 series 40, 50 and 60? So that implies that on the Roadmaster series 70 320 engine, it would only come into play in 1950 thru 1952. Or is it saying it fits 1950 thru 1952 and 1953 series 40 and 50, etc, implying that it fits only series 40 and 50 for those 4 years, and would not come into play at all for the series 70 320? I'm leaning toward the first interpretation because of the semi
  17. Remember the dot com bubble of the '90s? Same thing going on with Tesla. Their stock price is being inflated by hope, which is not an actual business plan. Having said that, I sincerely hope that Tesla thrives.
  18. Well I seemed to have solved the problem. What did the trick was a combination of turning the choke a little toward the "lean" direction, turning in (leaning) the idle mixture adjusting screws, and turning in the idle speed adjustment screw just a bit increasing the idle speed.
  19. Fuel is new. The car runs beautifully when it's warmed up. I tried turning in the idle adjustment screws that I backed out in order to cure the stumble that I had at first. I turned them in 1/4 turn, and this seems to have improved the surging on a cold start a little bit, and I still don't have the stumble on take off. I think I'll try another 1/4 turn and see what impact that has.
  20. Vacuum line is hooked up to the only vacuum port on the carb, and the advance is holding a vacuum. Accelerator pump gives a nice squirt. The only thing that I can think of that might cause surging is the power circuit in this carb. When vacuum in the throat is high, it holds a plunger open against a spring and that keeps the power jet closed giving a leaner mix. But when vacuum drops as RPMs rise, the vacuum can't overcome the spring pressure, and the plunger presses against a valve that opens the power jet, providing a richer mix. Could it be that the fast idle speed is right at the
  21. So I tried that, and it ran worse. It stalled.
  22. So I recently rebuilt the Stromberg carb on my '51. I adjusted the choke unloader and fast idle cam , and did the preset for the idle speed and mixture adjustments per the manual . When I first installed it and started her up, it ran smoothly at the fast idle while it was cold. I let her warm up and set the idle speed and mixture per the manual. I took her for a test drive, and found that it stumbled on accelerating from a stop. I opened up the mixture adjusting needles some more, and that seemed to cure the stumble. But now when I start the engine while cold, the RPMs surge and fall, s
  23. I have an old Chilton's manual that goes back to 1940, and that shows the oem sparkplug for Chrysler was an Autolite A7. I imagine 1939 was similar. You can still buy these: https://donsautoparts.com/spark-plugs/catref/spark-plugs/ref/bo185/older-copper-core-spark-plug-autolite-a7
  24. Since resistor plugs weren't developed until the '60s, a non-resistor plug would be standard for a '39. And as the last paragraph below mentions, a resistor plug delivers a lower energy spark. All the more reason not to use a resistor plug in a car that was not designed to require one.
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