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Reconstruction of a '34 Chevy Master Coupe


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The car is back home with most of the trimming done. I still have to install the dome light, the sun visors, and fasten the garnish moldings. We also discovered that the rear window garnish molding appears too narrow. A quick consult with the parts book revealed that the sedan part I was using is different from the coupes. More hunting ahead I guess. And then, more woodgraining.

Had to attend a business meeting closer to where the seat is. So if left a day early and picked up the seat near Toronto yesterday. At the same time I was there, there was a guy picking up a pair of seats for a Ferrari Daytona. There was an alfa GTV in there as well as a Ferrari Dino. There also was a hot rod Bentley, around a `49 judging by the body style. It had a 572 crate, 20'" wheels with rubber band tires and it was quite low, probably air ride. Very well done but not my bag. The seat looks grat. Drove about 400 miles. So I'll have some work to do when I get back home.

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We also discovered that the rear window garnish molding appears too narrow. A quick consult with the parts book revealed that the sedan part I was using is different from the coupes. More hunting ahead I guess.

If you were lucky and the radius on all the corners was correct, can you widen it? Garnish modifications are pretty common in the hot rod hobby. A coupe moulding must be fairly hard to get I would think.

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can you widen it?

I have another one. I was thinking of doing just that by slicing it and splicing a strip of sheet metal between the pieces. Its how to cut it that stumps me. Hard to go straight with a cutting wheel, can't see how I'd do it with snips. I've also been thinking about how I could make one out of wood.

Edited by Landman (see edit history)
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I have another one. I was thinking of doing just that by slicing it and splicing a strip of sheet metal between the pieces. Its how to cut it that stumps me. Hard to go straight with a cutting wheel, can't see how I'd do it with snips. I've also been thinking about how I could make one out of wood.

Pat,

I've cut out pieces with curves with my cutting wheel when I need to transfer a window latch mounting area to my replacement doors and what I found was that simple pieces of masking tape works great as a guide. I'm sure that you can do it. I've included a picture of what I'm talking about before welding it back together, it turned out great. Scott...

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Thanks Chris. Added the dome light and the seat. All that is left is the carpet and the horns. And to get it running right of course. And, by the way, Roger, the seat is quite comfortable. I'll likely need to confirm that or deny it after a 500 mile trip.

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Guest ggdoorguy

Hi Pat,

how does the spring mount to the cowel vent ? Im trying to put mine back together and I forgot how it goes.

Thanks

Gary

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Took it out for a 3 mile trip today. Runs Ok. Shifts nicely.Ride is amazingly smooth. I got a vibration/noise from the u-joint area which went away when letting up. It came back a couple of times though. The steering appears stiff. Perhaps it is the lack of alignment. I want to set that as close to spec before wearing the tires out. All in all, it was exciting in an anxious sort of way. It did build my confidence up a little bit. As I feel more relaxed I'll be able to pay more attention to other details.

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Took it out for a 3 mile trip today. Runs Ok. Shifts nicely.Ride is amazingly smooth. I got a vibration/noise from the u-joint area which went away when letting up. It came back a couple of times though. The steering appears stiff. Perhaps it is the lack of alignment. I want to set that as close to spec before wearing the tires out. All in all, it was exciting in an anxious sort of way. It did build my confidence up a little bit. As I feel more relaxed I'll be able to pay more attention to other details.

Pat, it is great to hear you have it running and driving. You have accomplished an amazing project, drive with pride!

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Thanks guys. It does feel good to be so close to completion. Did more tuning & timing with friend Phil today. Adjusted the alignment a bit too. I think the rattle noise may have to do with the clutch release bearing, its lever or some thing around there. It goes away when you rest your foot on the clutch pedal. It now shows almost 7 miles.

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Guest Norsedawg

Hello...I was going through my Grandfathers stuff recently and I found an original 34 Chevy grille emblem like the one you show above. The emblem in nearly in mint condition. Would you be interested? If so please e-mail me at nordicdawg@yahoo.com. Thank You!

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A bit late in my congratulations on getting the car legal and drivable. I am guessing that getting the details sorted out won't take you very long at all.
I certainly hope so. I hope some details aren't buried too deep. I'm not sure I'm up to much disassembly and reassembly at this stage.Thanks everyone for the kudos.
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Pat,

From the start to the current point in time this has been an adventure to follow. The pictures tell quite a story and they have been great but you know that your going to have to put a nice collection of finish photos up for us all to admire. Great job all the way around and I'm still on of many that love your wood graining job. Scott...

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I certainly hope so. I hope some details aren't buried too deep. I'm not sure I'm up to much disassembly and reassembly at this stage.Thanks everyone for the kudos.

After all the time and work you have put into it I can really understand not wanting to have to open it up to de-bug it. It just looks so darn nice! Well done Pat!

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Its looking great,I have been somewhat watching this thread and just what of the original car is on it. My 37 p/u only has about 1/2 of its original parts still on it.

Jeff, if you look at post #80 on page 4 it shows how much of the original car there is. I have since substituted its own left rear fender for the one from the parts car. And the engine isn't from the rodded coach as shown, we ended up using the one from the parts car. I'm working on a spreadsheet which outlines where I got everything and how much it cost (if I have the receipt or invoice). Perhaps I will post that if you guys promise not to have me carted off by the fellows in white coats.

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Pat,

From the start to the current point in time this has been an adventure to follow. The pictures tell quite a story and they have been great but you know that your going to have to put a nice collection of finish photos up for us all to admire . Great job all the way around and I'm still on of many that love your wood graining job. Scott...

Of course.

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At times I think the people with the white coats should take me away,my 37 has its original frame and front springs along with the complete cab,hood and grille shell but has fiberglass fenders and running boards and a reproduction bed plus parts off other vehicles.

Jeff, if you look at post #80 on page 4 it shows how much of the original car there is. I have since substituted its own left rear fender for the one from the parts car. And the engine isn't from the rodded coach as shown, we ended up using the one from the parts car. I'm working on a spreadsheet which outlines where I got everything and how much it cost (if I have the receipt or invoice). Perhaps I will post that if you guys promise not to have me carted off by the fellows in white coats.
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Took it for another ride today after taking up some of the freeplay in the clutch arm. Noise appears to be gone. Odometer now reads 11 miles The horn brackets I got on ebay brought the dome of the horn perilously close to the headlight bucket. So I took off their horn mounts and substituted the ones which had come with the horns. That will lower the horns by at least 1/2". My taillight stand had been ripped off their mounting plates so I had welded them back in with the result tthat the right hand taillight is "off". The other day I had been retrieving parts off a hulk in the bush with my neighbor. Lo and behold, a taillight stand still attached. So I removed it, extracted a broken bolt, tapped the threads and cleaned it up. Told the painter to wait until I bring him that before doing the luggage rack.

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I remember the first drives in my 37 and I hope you wont have to do what I did to the 37 on its first outing,I had to pull the trans out after I got it back from the exhaust shop due to the clutch not working right. I had a combobulation of clutch parts and when it got warm would not disengage,remembered what a older guy told me about modifying a 37 clutch fork and had it back on the road the next day since I had the parts,it was hard trying to not scratch the fresh paint and had to tear it all back apart that winter when I finally got all the matching clutch parts. I hope you just have to do minor adjustments and no major problems.

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I remember the first drives in my 37 and I hope you wont have to do what I did to the 37 on its first outing . . .

Failure may not happen on the first outing, but do for missing cotter pins. Amazing what can come loose and how potentially dangerous it can be. I learned that one a scary way when I got my '33 back on the road after being in pieces for years.

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