36 D2 Coupe

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About 36 D2 Coupe

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/20/1947

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    Near London Ontario


  • Biography
    Love Airflows and pre-war Dodges

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  1. Just have the main body of the unit which looks complete. Coated with the usual residue you would find in the engine bay. But no linkage. You would have to make that up in cooperation with someone who has the whole thing and can supply pictures and measurements. I think the cylinder is stuck and I have not tried to free it. Sending you a PM.
  2. Would anyone like to buy one of these vacuum clutch units? I have one I got in a box lot a few years ago. Unrestored, as found, complete with "patina". I recognized it from having one on a '34 Chrysler Airflow I once owned. Very unusual accessory and ideal for the uses hcris and ply33 suggest. Anybody?? .
  3. Beautiful car! Thanks for posting the pictures.
  4. These must have been put in there by mistake. They would be used (I think) to seal sleeves in an engine that had the cylinders bored out and sleeved. This was what was done on a tractor I owned 35 years ago. The O-rings had leaked and we got antifreeze in the oil. Pushed the sleeves out, replaced the O-rings and all was well again.
  5. I had a battle with the exhaust manifold on my '36 dodge. The problem is the two long studs that go through the manifold into the block. They get rusted solid into the manifold and are VERY difficult to release. The rusted studs swell up with scale filling the hole through the manifold and won't move. My exhaust manifold was broken into 3 pieces by the reman people trying to get it off the engine block so we could get it rebuilt. Those exhaust manifolds are not that easy to find any more and if you do they are pricey. Take your time and realize why the manifold is stuck. I finally was able to get a replacement that was from an M37 3/4 ton Military vehicle from about 1954. They use the same part number up into the 1950s if you do enough research. Part/casting number is 620854 If you are unlucky enough to need it for reference (presuming you have a 218 cu in engine). The number is on the bottom side of the exhaust manifold. With all this as preamble, I don't have an easy solution to this problem. I hope someone else has a good way of getting that rust to break free. Best of luck. I hope you can get it off ok. Edit - I just looked at Jan Arnett(2)'s suggestion above. I don't know if you can get a straight shot at those long studs but if you can find a thin wall tube and make a cutter as he suggests, it might clear the scale and release the manifold.
  6. I don`t have a build date for my D2 Coupe as the records for Chrysler Canada no longer exist. Body number is 76 but I have no idea what assembly date that would represent. I think your battery box lid is correct for your car. it may be that the earlier units used a style that was a carry-over from1935 as you suggest. Just iron it out a bit and it will be fine.
  7. Great find on the battery box! Now keep your eyes open for the piece that covers the center opening. About the same shape as the opening and covers the flat area around the opening. 10 1/4" W x 4 1/8" L x1/8" thick. Slightly curved around the ends. Mine is held in place with a pair of wing-headed screws and has a rubber lining - It has a rolled down edge all around . Interesting that yours has the end eaten out, same as mine. Batteries are sure corrosive! I dug out the gas tank I had found at a swap meet at least 15 years ago and it looks as if it is the same as the old one EXCEPT I have to transplant the filler neck from the old tank. That is a job for a professional. I know my limits. I'll need to check to make sure it's clean inside before we get too carried away.
  8. I've been trying to figure out how to get the gas tank out of our coupe for a long time - with about 5 gallons of 40 year old gas in it. Your suggestions actually worked. Today I jacked the car up until there was about 2 feet of clearance under the frame and set the frame on jack stands. That allowed the rear springs with the weight of the rear axle to sag enough that the end of the gas tank cleared the left rear spring. This in turn allowed the filler neck to just squeak through the space it had occupied. You need the car up this high so that the free end of the tank will drop far enough to let the filler neck come free. After fretting about it for a long time, it turns out to be not that difficult. The car had to be made so that this operation could be done at a service station. The missing element in my case was a hoist that could lift the car by the frame. Like yours Pete, some idiot in a service station backed it over a hoist block. They cut it in half, hammered it out roughly and soldered it back together. I was in college at the time and didn't know enough to push for more than the cost of repairs. Next issue is to see whether a tank I found is the right one
  9. Hi Peter I have one of the flippers like the one pictured directly above. Not the crank handle, just the flipper. It is in pretty nice shape with a small scuff on a corner of the Lucite. The spring works OK and the little round shank seems all right. I found it years ago in a box of junk parts at a swap meet and it was just too cool to leave so I bought it, brought it home, polished it up and then tried to figure out what it fit. If you want it, send me a PM with your address. I can send it to you and we can dicker about a price later. It would be much more at home on a car than in my collection of odds and ends: Jim near London Ontario
  10. Airflow Club of America has molds for making the center box on those manifolds. Look up John Librenjak as he is working on a project to reproduce them. Good luck.
  11. The part number on the spare (641006) tells me that it might be from a 37. Hi Pete I went and had a look at the bases of the tail lights from my '36 Dodge D2 RS Coupe. Numbers are 641005 Rh and 641006 LH. They mount on the fenders OK and as far as I know, they are original to the car. It is a Canadian built unit but I doubt that there were any differences. I can't find ANY of those numbers in my master parts manual or in the 1936 Dodge parts manual. Don't know where these would be listed. Good luck! Jim
  12. Agreed. I have mat core samples form both. I also have a set of '36 Dodge mat cores we copied exactly from originals and have enough tabs to complete them. Your challenge is to find a company that can put the rubber on them since Hunley Acuff closed his doors.
  13. www.emblemagic.com has a number of emblems like yours in stock waiting to be restored on order. Contact them for more info.
  14. Ya know I think I can spot a bit of improvement Nice work Dale!
  15. 1964 Chrysler Windsor (Newport in the US) 4dr sedan - ivory with red interior - it was new and Dad must have had a weak moment. I liked it so much that years later I was able to find one almost like it.