starlightcoupe

There was no 1930 Rockne. In 1932 there was a Rockne75, essentially a Studebaker model 54, and a smaller Rockne65, with probably an entirely different rear axle. I have the information for the rear axle on the smaller Rockne. Probably of no help?

Bob, You know you're going to get more feedback and recommendations on the SDC Forum. There were 6-volt A/C systems, but never factory installed in Studebakers. And Mr Burnette has or had a '51 Land Cruiser that Doc Cade had converted the 12-volt compressor to run on 6-volts.

The '5' indicates it was a 'Regal' trim level when it left the factory. Maximum trim for the Champion model that year.

Okay, jerry. What you've got is a Champion Starlight Coupe. also called a 5-passenger coupe in the factory parts catalogs. Not a Starliner hardtop. 🤭 (Breathing sigh off relief!)🤗 The body tag under the hood on the firewall should read 12GC, and then either a 1, 3 or 5. The Starlight Coupe is going to provide a very stout body for a gasser.

So, I take it you are turning a '52 Champion (Champ was the model of a later Studebaker pickup truck) in to a street rod and are looking to find a home for parts you don't need. Those '52 Hardtops were by far the most beautiful in the Studebaker lineup that year, and highly desired. Do right by it. Plan well; take your time; do it right! This Studebaker page on the AACA Forum caters mostly to the pre-war crowd. The huge majority of post-war Studebaker owners are on the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum every day. A lot more of them will see your offer if you post it there. There may be a couple who will lament rodding a hardtop but, for the most part, we will actually be interested in following your progress. There are few of us who don't have cars that have already undergone minor or major alteration. We may even be able to help with things you need , or folks who have already made conversions you are planning. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum

If you notice the impression is deeper on the right and upper corners, and tapers away on the left. I don't know what it is, or why it's there. But it may well be a swastika. But, before it was adopted by the Nazis, "the swastika or sauwastika — as a character, 卐 or 卍 respectively — was a geometrical figure and an ancient religious icon in the cultures of Eurasia. It was used as a symbol of divinity and spirituality in Indian religions, including Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism." In 1927 this may have been stamped in to the dash as a blessing. Pure speculation on my part.

I took a transparency of Mike Margerum's Four-Season at Gettysburg at the 1980 International Meet. Not my best attempt at photography; and the bellows on my ancient Agfa camera was, unknown to me, developing a pinhole that permitted light to flash the exposure. I believe Mike has given this roadster to his son Ben.

After 70 years "Peg" is finally running; joining her brother "Tommy". The video link is on the Keystone Region Chapter web site and Facebook. I hope you can access it. http://sdckeystoneregion.com/

I know Shrocks have reproduced a few early motor mounts of that era. Wouldn't hurt to check with them. http://shrockbrothers.com/

If you plan on owning the car for any length of time, you might want to purchase the Shop Manual and Body and Chassis Parts Catalogs. Things like removing that window are in the Manual.

I have to assume others have had to deal with this in the past and am hoping for some direction, suggestions and/or advice. The center chromed strip on these, what I would call "butterfly type" hoods, IS the hinge! Studebaker part #1240XW It is held at each end by a "SUPPORT"; part #255317. The "support" needs to have two small ears or tabs that fit in to the end of the chromed hinge strip. The tabbed part appears to have been machined and somehow riveted to the support assembly. As you can see from my photos, my front support has broken both its tabs, while the rear support still retains only one. In addition, because of this, the anterior end of the chromed hinge has developed a split, and a bit of a twist. This is an all original driver, not a show car. I'm not concerned with re-chroming the hinge strip, and believe some fine welding can fix the hinge itself. But I WOULD like to get it back to original function., and that requires replacing those broken supports. Might an experienced welder be able to simply add some metal to rebuild those tabs? As it is, I can only lay one side of the hood flat at a time, rather than propping it open, unless I lift the whole assembly completely off. PITA!😬 Any thoughts?

Engine identification: http://studebakerdriversclub.com/tech_6data.asp 1932 Model 55 Six, 230.2 cid, 3-1/8x4-5/8 bore and stroke, 80 hp@3200 rpm https://www.olsonsgaskets.com/

What sort of parts? Also note, no Rocknes were manufactured after June 1933; though some of those were crated and shipped to The Netherlands for final assembly to the European market. This MAY qualify yours as a 1934 but, for those parts not specifically installed in The Netherlands, you will need to identify U.S. parts as 1933. If you can identify the parts you need, while I probably don't have them, I can match the part to a factory number, which may aid your search. Here is my '33 Model 10.

Probably going to depend on your model and axle ratio.

Where's that listed?

Canceled.

Tim, I don't know if the information on this old box can lead to any source. This was a set I got from George Rohrbach for my own '33 many years ago. A quick search found nothing about Andrew Manufacturing or King Bolt Set 197. Looks like George hand wrote K122 on the box. Maybe check with him. But it appears the search can expand to '34-'39 Studebaker cars and '37-'39 trucks. Hope this helps. Brad

http://special-interest-autos.com/

Is yours standard steering or power steering? If power steering, is it Saginaw? Here is a thread on the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum that may help. The AACA Studebaker forum is primarily focused on pre-war vehicles; the SDC Forum on post-war. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/1832126-horn-wire

I think it's going to be pretty much fabricate your own. But I would bet the Studebaker National Museum Archives would have the blueprints available.

Might want to post your inquiry to the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum. Folks there are almost exclusively post-war oriented; and that Forum sees a lot more traffic than this one. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum

I believe Bob's post indicates the drums themselves are the same, but the detachable hub is not. If YOUR drum does have an issue, but a smaller hub, a good mechanic can separate them and re-use your hub.

Classic Car database indicates tire size was 32x6. But you should verify that against Studebaker factory data. http://www.classiccardatabase.com/specs.php?series=1323&year=1926&model=20549

I doubt inability to adjust the hand brake is sufficient evidence to conclude an out of round drum; nor to discount it. Other than putting it on a lathe and finding out. Are the shoes properly mounted and the lining sufficient? Has the hand brake cable stretched or been mis-routed?

You may have to look at windshield molding extrusions at Steele Rubber Products and do a little fabrication. https://www.steelerubber.com/dense-extrusions