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Everything posted by starlightcoupe

  1. Tim, I don't know if the information on this old box can lead to any source. This was a set I got from George Rohrbach for my own '33 many years ago. A quick search found nothing about Andrew Manufacturing or King Bolt Set 197. Looks like George hand wrote K122 on the box. Maybe check with him. But it appears the search can expand to '34-'39 Studebaker cars and '37-'39 trucks. Hope this helps. Brad
  2. Is yours standard steering or power steering? If power steering, is it Saginaw? Here is a thread on the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum that may help. The AACA Studebaker forum is primarily focused on pre-war vehicles; the SDC Forum on post-war. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/1832126-horn-wire
  3. I think it's going to be pretty much fabricate your own. But I would bet the Studebaker National Museum Archives would have the blueprints available.
  4. Might want to post your inquiry to the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum. Folks there are almost exclusively post-war oriented; and that Forum sees a lot more traffic than this one. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum
  5. I believe Bob's post indicates the drums themselves are the same, but the detachable hub is not. If YOUR drum does have an issue, but a smaller hub, a good mechanic can separate them and re-use your hub.
  6. Classic Car database indicates tire size was 32x6. But you should verify that against Studebaker factory data. http://www.classiccardatabase.com/specs.php?series=1323&year=1926&model=20549
  7. I doubt inability to adjust the hand brake is sufficient evidence to conclude an out of round drum; nor to discount it. Other than putting it on a lathe and finding out. Are the shoes properly mounted and the lining sufficient? Has the hand brake cable stretched or been mis-routed?
  8. You may have to look at windshield molding extrusions at Steele Rubber Products and do a little fabrication. https://www.steelerubber.com/dense-extrusions
  9. If it gets too far out of round it will relay that information to you in a violent manner. Fortunately, your greatest braking occurs in the front brakes. If you just detect a pulsing, you may be able to have it turned on a brake lathe; but that will also depend on if it has already been done in the past. Turning brake drums on a lathe was pretty standard practice, but there are also minimum thickness standards. If someone can tell you what that standard is for the '37 Studebaker Dictator drum, perhaps your mechanic can do that, or get it done. There are still a lot of shops that have those lathes, which are also used to surface flywheels. Rotors can be done as well but, modern rotors are so thin to begin with, and so cheap to replace, few bother to get them turned.
  10. I would suspect Richard Quinn should be able to hook you up with the Service Manual and Specifications for that model.
  11. Tim, There should be a pan between the frame and the engine that has a hole in it just under the carb. That hole lets the excess gas go to the ground, rather than fumes under the bonnet.
  12. YUP! Any one of use can give dumb answers, but no question is ever dumb if an answer can be found.
  13. If Tom VanMeeteren can't help you, try http://special-interest-autos.com/
  14. Measurements could also be taken from the '32 Rockne Model 75. The larger Rockne model was simply a re-badged Studebaker 55.
  15. The Antique Studebaker Club has set up an ALL NEW web site that will/is replacing the site Rick Peterson has personally administered for many years. Both sites are currently accessible, but theantiquestudebakerclub.com will soon be history. Additional members of the ASC are assisting Rick with the new web site, greatly reducing the burden he has been shouldering for years, as well as financing. If you have the current ASC site listed in your Bookmarks or Favorites, take a moment to visit the new site and Bookmark it in your browser. https://antiquestudebakerclub.org/
  16. Assuming the parts are in the condition you describe, I would think someone in need of them would be thrilled to get them at that price. Probably even more. Someone who is not "in need" of them, but just looking to upgrade what they've got may question your price. I don't. I think it's a value; and doubt you will have any trouble finding a buyer. The '53/'54 Starlights are one of the iconic Studebaker grails. Have you considered posting it on the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum? This AACA Studebaker page appeals mostly to those with pre-WWII vehicles; while the SDC Forum is almost exclusively post war. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum
  17. Jerry, Over the past decade and a half I disassembled and reassembled my own '53 coupe so, unfortunately you brought these to the market too late for me. But, now being intimately familiar with every part, I do not recognize the two in the bottom of your picture. Are you or your cousin able to identify them?
  18. Don't know if the Studebaker Archives at the Studebaker National Museum might still have the blueprints/patterns for these. They well may. Worth contacting Andy Beckman at the SNM to find out. Then any upholstery shop could turn one out just like the original.
  19. If it really was NOS, decades old and never used prior, it probably just needs the seals and diaphragm renewed. New materials are also more compatible with today's gasoline.
  20. I'll check my local ACE Hardware for your water pump, Gary. But I haven't noticed that particular one, as often as I've been there. 😊
  21. The gal in the center seems to have caught more hemlock than fish. 😅
  22. Tim, Bill Ficken did rebuild mine three decades ago. I guess it's time to do it again. About your fuel gauge, if there are no breaches in the copper tube from the fuel sending unit to the hydrometric fuel gauge, perhaps the fluid in the gauge has just evaporated over a period of 87 years. Maybe you've already checked that . But it was a thought.
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