starlightcoupe

I would suspect Richard Quinn should be able to hook you up with the Service Manual and Specifications for that model.

Tim, There should be a pan between the frame and the engine that has a hole in it just under the carb. That hole lets the excess gas go to the ground, rather than fumes under the bonnet.

YUP! Any one of use can give dumb answers, but no question is ever dumb if an answer can be found.

If Tom VanMeeteren can't help you, try http://special-interest-autos.com/

Measurements could also be taken from the '32 Rockne Model 75. The larger Rockne model was simply a re-badged Studebaker 55.

The Antique Studebaker Club has set up an ALL NEW web site that will/is replacing the site Rick Peterson has personally administered for many years. Both sites are currently accessible, but theantiquestudebakerclub.com will soon be history. Additional members of the ASC are assisting Rick with the new web site, greatly reducing the burden he has been shouldering for years, as well as financing. If you have the current ASC site listed in your Bookmarks or Favorites, take a moment to visit the new site and Bookmark it in your browser. https://antiquestudebakerclub.org/

Assuming the parts are in the condition you describe, I would think someone in need of them would be thrilled to get them at that price. Probably even more. Someone who is not "in need" of them, but just looking to upgrade what they've got may question your price. I don't. I think it's a value; and doubt you will have any trouble finding a buyer. The '53/'54 Starlights are one of the iconic Studebaker grails. Have you considered posting it on the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum? This AACA Studebaker page appeals mostly to those with pre-WWII vehicles; while the SDC Forum is almost exclusively post war. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum

Jerry, Over the past decade and a half I disassembled and reassembled my own '53 coupe so, unfortunately you brought these to the market too late for me. But, now being intimately familiar with every part, I do not recognize the two in the bottom of your picture. Are you or your cousin able to identify them?

Don't know if the Studebaker Archives at the Studebaker National Museum might still have the blueprints/patterns for these. They well may. Worth contacting Andy Beckman at the SNM to find out. Then any upholstery shop could turn one out just like the original.

If it really was NOS, decades old and never used prior, it probably just needs the seals and diaphragm renewed. New materials are also more compatible with today's gasoline.

I'll check my local ACE Hardware for your water pump, Gary. But I haven't noticed that particular one, as often as I've been there. 😊

The gal in the center seems to have caught more hemlock than fish. 😅

Tim, Bill Ficken did rebuild mine three decades ago. I guess it's time to do it again. About your fuel gauge, if there are no breaches in the copper tube from the fuel sending unit to the hydrometric fuel gauge, perhaps the fluid in the gauge has just evaporated over a period of 87 years. Maybe you've already checked that . But it was a thought.

These might be of interest in anyone restoring a '32 Studebaker.

It's always best to send whatever business we can to our own Studebaker vendors. If not for them none of us would still be on the road. http://www.studebakervendors.com/ But don't rule out your own local FLAPS (friendly local auto parts supply). Many of these items can still be obtained from NAPA, Carquest, etc, if you can find a counter man who's heard of anything other than what's been manufactured in the 21st century. If you locate a cross reference and can supply them with their own part number, so much the better. The following list was assembled by Nate Nagel years ago. Unfortunately, it's all post war. https://northstarstudebakers.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/interchange.pdf If you must, Rock Auto lists brake hoses and cylinder kits.

Barry Wolk, yes.

Shrock Brothers have reproduced the rubber covers for the running boards; but that's not what you would call complete. http://shrockbrothers.com/studebaker_reproduction_parts.html#covers

Dave Thibeault (T-bow) rebuilt the UR-2 for my '33 Rockne, but had to scrounge for parts. But he also can do the black zinc finish.

Here's a one year only manufacturer sedan that does live in Michigan, a 1933 Continental, that looks like it may have already been shown at Groose Point Shores at some point.

I sent the coil/switch from my '33 Rockne to KM Lifestyle and they totally rebuilt it. Works perfect; good for another eight decades. http://mykmlifestyle.com/

I believe Jörg Weller is also having some cast in brass.

Yes, Bill rebuilt mine as well, almost twenty years ago. He's the one who advised to keep it working you just need to use it regularly. He also indicated the lubricant he uses is specific to the vacuum wiper motor and no other lubricant should be introduced. I guess it's time to do it again.

I guess the best way to keep a vacuum wiper system fully functional is to use it often. Given these cars are not driven as regularly as they were eighty years ago, other than a dual-action fuel pump, has anyone added an electric vacuum pump and canister?

I do have to agree with Bob on this. While it is your car and your money, that question that needs asked, especially in a vehicle of this vintage, is why do you want to do this? There MAY be valid reasons; but reliability is NOT one of them.

You might want to check with Randy Rundle. He has done a lot of 6/12-volt conversions; it's his specialty. https://fifthaveinternetgarage.com/?fbclid=IwAR1WNYdR3G_5bdf1eVICOwzWCpmN9g_uOBwDBXRSXJce8nqgVAlKoAx8djw