starlightcoupe

See response to technical post.

I didn't think overdrive was available in 36. I know Jerry Kurtz, a machinist who owns Kurtz Industries in Manchester, Pa near York, has produced an adaptor to use the later overdrive in his own 37 Dictator. It works very well.

You are correct; your engine is a 170 (actually 167.7) overhead valve, based on the 170 flathead built from 1937 to 1960. Offhand, I don't know of any within your driving distance but, if no offers are forthcoming, you may wish to use the Studebaker Drivers Club website. You can link to the local Chapter for contacts within your area or place an ad in <span style="font-style: italic">Turning Wheels</span> , the SDC monthly publication. My first Studebaker was a 1962 Lark VI my Grandfather bought new. I wish I still had it. Good luck. Brad <a href="studebakerdriversclub.com" target="_blank">Studebaker Drivers Club</a>

Charlie, I would add that, should you need to clean the headlight switch, be very careful taking it apart. There are some tiny springs in there that could go aflyin'.

Studebaker International info@studebaker-intl.com

Can't help you with values, having not seen them bought or sold. My 33 Model 10 has original wheels in excellent condition. You can find what they'll bring on eBay or price what you'd like to get and advertise in the Antique Studebaker Review through ASC or Turning Wheels through SDC. I can tell you the 32 used 18" wheels and the 33 used 17" wheels. At least you'll know which year yours fit.

I have to agree with everything Art has said about researching archives, photos, et al. If I were a retired Studebaker paintline worker, I could say these are the facts. I'm not. I have a totally original 1933 Rockne that is fully functional and would be a cinch to restore but I'm told "Don't, don't, don't." Restorers want to find these cars to see if the length of the stitch in the seat is correct or the grill to hood welt is stitched in first or out first. I've been in the Studebaker Drivers Club for thirty years and, from what I've seen and read, the welt should be body color. But, as someone who enjoys owning and driving--as apposed to looking at--these cars, I think the welt should be the color you want it to be. And I would hope you are able to drive it and enjoy it. 9000% of the public won't know if the welt is correct but they'll appreciate a fine car when they see it. When I bought my 51 Starlight Coupe it was very deteriorated but unmolested and the welt was detectibly body color.

Ammeter measures amps, not volts. It will work correctly for 6, 12, 24 or whatever volts your system is. In the rare event it needs calibrated, any quality auto electric shop should be able to accomplish this.

$25.00 to Antique Studebaker Club, POBox 1743, Maple Grove, MN. 55311-6743

I don't know but,reproduction service manuals are available, printed or on CD ROM. Check studebakerdriversclub.com

MAJOR, MAJOR difference in the front fenders due primarily to front suspension. 1951 or 1952 Champion or Commander should work but if you use 1951 you'll have to change the complete front clip: hood, grills, everything. You'll end up with a 1951 Studebaker with a 1952 title. Rear fenders are not interchangeable between any two and four door. Quality chrome on the 52 grills can run you 2 to 3 grand but are a thing of beauty. Making it look like a 1951 would be a cheaper alternative. 1947-50 factory Body parts catalog and 1951-52 catalog reproductions are available for $20 each from many Studebaker vendors. Check studebakerdriversclub.com

I don't think the Speedster had bucket seats. Contact Rene Harger at Phantom Auto Works, Knoxville,TN for a definitive answer. (865) 525-6025 He reproduces complete Speedster interiors. Since submitting this post I've done some checking and can verify the Speedster never had bucket seats. Buckets were first available in the 61 Hawk. These seats would probably fit but the consensus is it would be a shame to alter a Speedster. Additionally we concede it is your car and you should do what you want but, if you have the original seat, Keep it in case a future owner would only want something original.

None of the Studebakers I've restored have a vent pipe. Sounds like you have an obstruction;could be in the tank or deterioration in the filler neck hose. Studebaker International and SASCO have the hose available. It has a slight angle to it. You'll have problems with the filler neck if you try to use a straight piece.

Dan is right. Studebaker V8s can be punched plenty and were stout. The 224 crankshaft was the strongest but also the smallest displacement. The 232, introduced in 1951 was stroked up to 259 and 289 with two and four barrels. Then McCulloch vs57 superchargers and later Paxtons were added. These ran well in early 60's NASCAR. Andy Granatelli bored them up to 305, also with much success but Studebaker had already missed the muscle machine wallet. But first, what was your 55, Champion or Commander? The frames were from the same stamping but of different gage steel. Be leery of installing a real POWERplant in a Champion frame that has already sufferred fifty years of fatigue. Even Commander frames age with time. Newly engineered frames are available but will set you back nearly three grand.

The Commander six was the spawn of the engine designed and installed in the 1932 and 1933 Rockne 10, used thereafter, in various displacements, in the Studebaker Commanders through 1950 and in some Studebaker trucks into 1961. Someone who knows can correct me if I'm wrong but I believe any of those engines could be used in your 41 if you're not building a show car. The Champion flathead six (169.7 cid) was used through 1960 and redesigned with overhead valves in 1961--not an engine to be considered for your car. Check studebakerdriversclub.com for links to parts suppliers.