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About 37S2de

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  • Birthday 09/12/1947

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  1. Hi Chris The belt in my ‘35 Commander is labeled: MODOC 156. 25-12700 Tom
  2. Don — You are probably right that the shields aren’t for all ‘37 models. I used sedan rear fenders and used the shields because I had them. I now remember that there was another bracket spot welded at the top of the shield that I had to remove to get the shields to fit. The 5 holes in my first picture that I never filled in after drilling out the spot welds were the clue. I got lazy and didn’t weld the holes up. Chris — You didn’t say if you needed the support rods themselves. This picture is what I now think came off my CE when purchased. I don’t know if this is original, or from which side of the truck, but it’s yours if you want it. Tom
  3. Hi Chris Actually these are more like inner fender shields. — curved sheet metal pieces attached to the bottom of the rear wheel opening and then to the frame about 4 or 5 inches in front of the rear spring shackle. I tried to take pictures, but it’s hard to get the I-pad in the right position. I hope this helps a little The first picture is looking rearward on the driver side and the second is looking forward on the passenger side. Tom
  4. Hi Don. It went out in today’s mail. For postage we’ll be square Tom
  5. Hi Don. I guess I’m not real sure what you have there. The banjo fittings I have are as pictured and are part number 185171. There are two copper gaskets required. The one that goes under the head of the banjo bolt is .543 inches ID and the one that goes on the shank of the banjo bolt and fits between the banjo fitting and the wheel cylinder is .444 inches ID. I’m pretty sure that second one is part number 185167. Chuck Collins shows that one as being available on his website. The original washers are thinner (and probably softer) than those available today, and were designed to distort into the grooves made on the surfaces of the banjo fitting, rather than crush. I hope I’m explaining this OK. When I think of copper crush washers I think of the asbestos-filled washers used to seal water jackets. Anyway, when you get this fitting, if the bolt you have does not fit, let me know. I have that also Tom
  6. Don —- I’m pretty sure that I have some. You are talking about the fittings that have the alignment “fork” on the end, right? I’ll look for them when I get home from Mansfield tomorrow . I’m not sure if I have any where one of the “fork” tines is not broken off. Do you need any of the banjo bolts? Tom
  7. When I first bought my ‘35 Commander I managed to crack a headlight lens. I called Don Axlerod and he immediately told me he hadn’t seen any of those lenses in 40 years. I asked him what he would sell them for if he had any and he said “$1000 a pair”. I managed to find another vendor who had a lens for me and replaced the one on my car. Another pair popped up somewhere and I bought that pair also I thought about what Don had said about these lenses and took the cracked one and the (now) extra good pair with me to Hershey the next year. I went to Don’s space and fished the cracked one out of my bag. He immediately recognized it for what it was, stated again that he didn’t have any and hadn’t seen any in many years. When asked what he could sell a pair for, he again said “$1000” I then fished the good pair out of my bag and offered them to him for $500. Don changed his story right away and said he couldn’t buy them because they were a very “limited market” item and he’d never sell them. All I could do was laugh and walk away. I just realized how old this thread is and that one of the posts (the one with the picture) is mine. Anyway, this post brings my ‘35 Commander headlight lens story full circle. Now, if anyone needs a good pair of ‘35 Commander or President headlight lenses, the offer I made to Don stands. Tom
  8. Don —- Is there a driveshaft shop in Grand Junction? When I replaced the transmission in my Coupe-Express with a Jerry Kurtz-built transmission with overdrive, the original driveshaft with those rubber joints was too long. The local driveshaft shop here in Shreveport showed me how to measure for a new driveshaft and had one made by the next day with modern u-joints. Best bet is to find out where the truckers on I-70 get their driveline repairs. Those guys get quick service. Tom
  9. R-1, 4-speed, air. Very nice car. I’ve owned for 12 years. Time to let it go. $21,000. Car is located in northwest Louisiana. If interested, call Tom at 318-382-3337. Please be prepared to leave a message because I seldom hear the cell phone ring now that my wife has convinced me to give up the landline. Tom
  10. Thank you for the follow up. Obviously some serious planning went into that panel. You said you made your own rolling dies. Was the groove in the female side of the coining tool made the same size as the rolling die? I can see where the tools all have to match and different rolling dies would need a different set of coining tools. I have a lathe and milling machine, so someday I might try it. Your mention of following a post on the HAMB reminded me that almost anything these days can be found on YouTube. I googled “rolling beads in sheet metal” and learned more in a short time than I’ve learned in 25 years of trying it by myself. I’m probably a little too old to be thinking about making or buying an English Wheel, though. Tom
  11. That looks very nice. I am impressed that the floor panel looks so flat after putting in the beads. Every time I roll beads I wind up with a warped panel and it is a wrestling match to get it flat again. Very nice layout and execution. I’d be interested in more pictures of your “coining tool”. I have struggled with getting the ends of beads rounded also. Tom
  12. Hi Don. I know I have a pair of original reflectors for ‘37 headlights. They need to be polished up or re-silvered. I can measure them for size for you, or they are available. # 1. The bulbs only fit in one way, and if the little springs behind the pins are not free the bulbs can be stubborn to get in. My advice —. wear gloves and have at it twisting them in. Bulbs are plentiful. I have lots of them picked up at swap meets over the years The headlight lenses on my ‘37 Coupe-Express are Corcoran and Brown. I don’t know if Riteway or C & B are correct (maybe both) #2.. As I recall, the parking light socket comes through the reflector from the back with one of the pin slots riding the tab in the reflector. It is twisted so that the tab is captured and then the bulb is inserted from the front and is twisted at the bottom of the two slots and the pins on the bulb hold everything together. I remember fighting this years ago also. If you need pictures, just let me know. Tom
  13. Do you ever plan to have your ‘38 judged in a show where the judges would have a clue that the u-joints are not correct? The Antique Studebaker Club has no such judging. If you are planning on driving it, go ahead and use modern u-joints and a new drive shaft. When I put a Jerry Kurtz electric overdrive transmission in my ‘37 Coupe-Express, it took the local drive line specialist shop less than a day to fabricate a new drive shaft. When I commented on the quick service, the counterman looked surprised and said, “We’re in the breakdown business. The 18-wheeler owner-operator with a broken drive shaft won’t tolerate slow repairs” it’s a pleasure doing business with professionals like that. Even a town like Shreveport still has shops like this. All they needed were measurements, and they told me exactly how to do it. I’ll never regret replacing those old-style joints Tom
  14. OK, Don. I’ll get one out to you tomorrow. Which style would you like? I’m now on my fourth revision of the original design. In the photo, the top bracket has tall legs and full-width mirror mount surface. The middle bracket has shorter legs and a narrower mirror mount surface and the lower bracket has really no legs and the narrow mount surface. In my original post I didn’t put in any contact data. Silly me. I guess I figured most folks on this forum know who I am. In any case, if you want to contact me other than through this forum, I can be reached at: studebaker4829@live.com George — if you want one of these other styles I’ll replace the one I sent you. Tom Lewis
  15. I seem to recall being told years ago that Coupe-Expresses were not manufactured with interior rear view mirrors. When I restored mine, I installed a mirror that used the same bracket as passenger cars. This set-up only afforded me a nice view of the front side of the tailgate. I think Chris Piazza once said something about making a bracket to fit on the windshield divider bar. I thought about that for a while and machined the little goodies in the second picture. When installed, the top brackets fit perfectly on the division bar and gave a really good rear view. I didn’t round off any of the corners, but that could easily be done. I made the “feet” as wide as the divider bar for stability. If anyone here has a Coupe-Express and would like one of these brackets, just let me know. I’m not really sure how well this bracket would fit on the later CE’s that have the more slanted wind shield. Tom