richard m

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About richard m

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  • Birthday 01/01/1949
  1. Thanks. I checked their website and they don't have mats for studebakers unfortunately. However, I found elsewhere on the forum that the correct matting is simple ribbed which is available from several vendors.
  2. My experience is that you must use a molded lining on the third shoe and woven linings on the other two shoes. I tried woven on all three shoes, years ago with poor results. What a mistake. Other wise follow the Bendix instructions and you will be happy.
  3. Thanks. Good advice. And thanks to all who replied!
  4. I will take the shifter apart again, measure the static length of the springs, mic the balls and tubes, then try shimming the springs a bit so they apply more force. I’ll have to see if a replacement 2nd gear is obtainable. Thanks all.
  5. Yes the springs required considerable force to compress them in order to get the balls in sufficiently to get the parts back together. I hope to still find the bearings etc I may need. Should have bought them years ago. This is an original car, 60,000 miles on the odometer, never been apart, that I bought in 1985 drove for a few years then had to park in the garage due to engine issues. Been a long time but I am now getting back into it and hope to get it back on the road. Appreciate your help! Richard
  6. Thanks again Edinmass. Took the shifter apart and found the springs and steel balls were fine. No apparent or unusual wear on the tubes or shift forks. I put it back together with the help of a dummy shaft to hold the balls and springs while I slid everything back in place. So looks like I will have to dig deeper into the trans. I notice that the input shaft has some play, presumably from a worn ball bearing in the front of the case. Other than that and some wear on the 2nd speed sliding gear, the trans looks and sounds good when I spin it. But its dropping out of second gear for a reason. Just need to figure out what the reason is! Thanks for your help.
  7. Thanks for the replies. Edinmass: I did pull the shifter housing off. I can’t tell for sure if the springs in the shift tube are functioning. When I put the shift forks in the center ie. neutral position as shown in the pic, I can push either ball in without feeling any resistance or springiness. Is that normal? When I slide the forks for and aft there feels like resistence/springiness. How hard is it to remove the tube to check the spring? Re. the internals, all the gears look good except second which as the second pic shows is noticeably worn. Could this amount of wear cause the trans to slide out of gear?Second gear is the only one where this happens. The cluster gears all look good.
  8. My 1930 Studebaker Dictator has a Warner Gear T2c-1 transmission that jumps out of second gear. This transmission was used in many cars of the late 20's and 30's apparently. Before I tear into it I thought I'd see if anyone has experience with these transmissions and can you suggest what might be the problem? Bad gear, worn bearings, worn shift collar? Also is there a diagram of this transmission available? Thx, Richard
  9. What is the correct pattern for the running board matting for my 1930 Dictator? It currently has narrow ribbed matting but I don't believe its original. Thx, Richard
  10. Thanks Greg H. Yes, I believe you are right, the 1928 Falcon Knight seems to have all the right features, particularly the piano door hinges which appear to be unique to the 1928 cars. Thanks for the great detective work!
  11. Yes, you are right there is a piano hinge across the top of the windshield opening. So, it may be a one piece windshield and the brackets 2/3 of the way up are for the hardware that holds the swing out windshield open. The brackets at the top of the opening may be for a visor? -Richard
  12. Yes, the piano hinges are pretty unique, and the combination of the front doors with mixed piano and conventional, and the rear doors with piano hinges-only is even more unique. Plus the split windshield suggests mid-20's not late '20's when most cars had one piece windshields, so yes it points to 25-27 at the latest. It appears that a feature of the Whippets is suicide front doors, which this car did not have. Then there is the lack of cowl lights like all the Nash's had and add in the twin belt lines and it gets even more complicated. Looking thru the Standard Catalog of American Cars the only car that comes close is the 1923-25 Cole, a competitor to Cadillac, in which some models had the combined piano/conventional front door hinges, piano style rear door hinges, and twin belt lines. But all Coles from 1916-25 had Northway V-8s, so why the indented firewall in this car that looks to be for an inline engine? Is it a some model of Cole, Cadillac, Nash, Essex, Whippet or some other more common make? Hopefully someone on the forum knows. Thx for all the responses, Richard
  13. This 1920's sedan cowl has no id tag or any makers marks though it looks like there once was a serial number tag on the drivers A-pillar held on by four small rivets. It has distinctive hidden rolled/interlocking 17 1/2" long hinges on the front doors along with a single conventional lower exposed hinge. The rear doors have a long 26" hidden hinge only, no exposed hinge. The front doors are hinged at the A-pillar, the rears are hinged at the rear. The body has two parallel belt moldings stamped into the sheet metal that are 3" apart . The lower one that starts on the cowl is 1/2 inch wide; the upper belt molding on the doors is 1" wide. There are no cowl lights, but there is a large cowl vent. It has a split windshield with the top portion hinged at the top and the bottom part hinged about 2/3 up from the bottom. The firewall is indented to accommodate the engine (6, 8 or ?). There is an oil can holder on the firewall that may be original or add on. What is it? Thanks, Richard
  14. Thank you. That would seem to clear up the mystery. The adjusting screws could have certainly easily been "updated" many, many years ago. Thx, Richard.