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richard m

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About richard m

  • Birthday 01/01/1949

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  1. Thanks to all for your sage advice. I opted for regular wheel bearing grease since that's what I had in the shop The original grease lasted for 90 years so hopefully I get close to that mileage this time around (lol). Next step in my engine reassembly is to align the crank and cam gears, along with the tensioner gear, and get the front cover on the engine with the timing marks correct. Pistons/rods are in, everything safety wired, and flywheel installed. Just need to have the clutch plate rebuilt with full complement of springs (one is missing) installed and new facings. I last drove the car in 1989 or thereabouts. Its on my bucket list to drive it again before they ban internal combustion engines!
  2. My 1930 Studebaker Dictator 6 has a Hyatt type pilot bearing, not a bushing. Any recommendations for type of grease to use with this type of pilot bearing?
  3. Thanks for the PA info. I found valves that will work so I am good for now. Richard
  4. Looking for intake or exhaust valves for my 1930 Studebaker Dictator 6. The approximate dimensions are as follows: Intake Valve - Dia 1.625"; Stem Diameter .313"; Length 5.420" Exhaust Valve - Dia. 1.510"; Stem Diameter.313"; Length 5.420" Appreciate any leads or interchange info. Thx, Richard
  5. For sale is my 1916 Model T Ford Touring. This car was built in November 1915 (engine #959xxx casting date 11/2/15; body #11 15 xxxx) and currently has Nevada Horseless Carriage registration. It is a refurbished but not restored car that is very original - no starter, generator, distributor, water pump or other modern add-ons. It is a genuine 1916 car built by Henry Ford, not a collection of used parts. Original engine/transmission rebuilt by previous owner. Front and rear suspension/axles and driveline rebuilt during my ownership (10 years). Has all the correct tapered springs, spring perches, wood fellow wheels, etc. that you would expect on a 1916 Ford. Nice top and upholstery. Safety glass windshield. Runs on magneto or battery. Good paint; body has orignal wood including stamped body number, no rust, and 105 years of character. Starts, runs, drives and stops as it should. Ready to tour. $12,500 obo. Located near Reno, NV. 775-782-1829 or demarkley@msn.com
  6. My experience is that on cars that have sat out in the elements for years, to remove those old rusty nuts and bolts, pretty much the only way to remove them is to use an acetylene torch and heat them to cherry red, then they will usually break free. Otherwise you will have to replace all the ones that break off, if you can get at them. PB Blaster, Kroil, etc. are good, but there is a limit to what they can do. Good luck with your project.
  7. Thanks for measuring these. Sounds like I will have to keep looking. -Richard
  8. On my 1930 Dictator 6, I have a question about the third main bearing (the flanged one that carries the crankshaft thrust). My machinist friend has noted that the bronze-backed bearing shell half that sits in the block does not sit flush with the block. With the shell fully seated in the block there is a gap of .025" on both ends of the shell. In other words the shell is .025" shy of being flush with the machined surface of the block. Is this something Studebaker did on these engines to facilitate oiling of the thrust surfaces? All the other 3 main bearing shells when inserted come up flush with the block surface. So the third thrust bearing is unique in this regard. Of note is that this third bearing is the only bearing in the engine that did not have oiling grooves cut into the babbitt on the face that crank turns in. When I disassembled the engine, there were no shims behind the bearings or other added parts besides the shells and caps. Any sage advice out there? Thx, Richard
  9. Hard for me to tell from the photo. The measurements would be needed to be sure. If you could compare these with the dimensions I put in my first post, that would be great. Thx, Richard
  10. Depending on how badly worn your steering box is and if its a Ross, you might look into a TightSteer adjuster made for 1930's and 40's Ross steering boxes. A friend put one in his '36 Dictator with good results. The spring loaded adjuster replaces the stock adjuster on Ross steering boxes. The TightSteer folks have a website siminoffjeeparts.com.
  11. I have two 8" diameter Essex headlight lenses for sale. They appear to be NOS. Excellent condition with no scratches, chips, etc. I believe these are correct for 1925-28. The lenses say "ESSEX MOTOR CARS" near the top of the lens and "SPREADLIGHT" near the bottom of the lens. Around the edge of the glass it says "McKee Glass Co Jeanette PA Pat Pend 8x7 3/16 Tilt Beam 9in. down at 25 feet 21 CP". One lens also has number 631856 along the edge of the lens. $30 for the pair plus shipping. Thx, Richard
  12. Still looking for 1930 Dictator Coupe window garnish molding. Everything offered so far is for cars that have moldings that taper from one end to the other, ie they are trapezoidal. . Must have been more the norm back in the day for Studebakers. Mine, however, are rectangular. The height dimension is the same, front or rear of the frame, and the width is the same, top or bottom of the frame. Thanks for looking in your pile of parts! Richard
  13. Thanks for all the feedback! Richard
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