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richard m

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About richard m

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  • Birthday 01/01/1949

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  1. On my 1930 Dictator 6, I have a question about the third main bearing (the flanged one that carries the crankshaft thrust). My machinist friend has noted that the bronze-backed bearing shell half that sits in the block does not sit flush with the block. With the shell fully seated in the block there is a gap of .025" on both ends of the shell. In other words the shell is .025" shy of being flush with the machined surface of the block. Is this something Studebaker did on these engines to facilitate oiling of the thrust surfaces? All the other 3 main bearing shells when inserted come up flu
  2. Hard for me to tell from the photo. The measurements would be needed to be sure. If you could compare these with the dimensions I put in my first post, that would be great. Thx, Richard
  3. Depending on how badly worn your steering box is and if its a Ross, you might look into a TightSteer adjuster made for 1930's and 40's Ross steering boxes. A friend put one in his '36 Dictator with good results. The spring loaded adjuster replaces the stock adjuster on Ross steering boxes. The TightSteer folks have a website siminoffjeeparts.com.
  4. I have two 8" diameter Essex headlight lenses for sale. They appear to be NOS. Excellent condition with no scratches, chips, etc. I believe these are correct for 1925-28. The lenses say "ESSEX MOTOR CARS" near the top of the lens and "SPREADLIGHT" near the bottom of the lens. Around the edge of the glass it says "McKee Glass Co Jeanette PA Pat Pend 8x7 3/16 Tilt Beam 9in. down at 25 feet 21 CP". One lens also has number 631856 along the edge of the lens. $30 for the pair plus shipping. Thx, Richard
  5. Still looking for 1930 Dictator Coupe window garnish molding. Everything offered so far is for cars that have moldings that taper from one end to the other, ie they are trapezoidal. . Must have been more the norm back in the day for Studebakers. Mine, however, are rectangular. The height dimension is the same, front or rear of the frame, and the width is the same, top or bottom of the frame. Thanks for looking in your pile of parts! Richard
  6. Thanks for all the feedback! Richard
  7. FYI, this shifter is now up for auction on Ebay. If anyone is interested, you can find it at https://www.ebay.com/itm/203333296820. Thx, Richard
  8. Thanks for the info. This one appears to me to have the twist you mentioned. Maybe it shows in this photo. Richard
  9. Thanks. Here are a couple of pics showing the bell crank and the top of the bowl. Sounds like the carb may be for an early Dodge.
  10. I have a brass Stewart Carburetor, made by Detroit Lubricator, that says its a "Dodge" model. Last patent date is April 22, 1913. I am wondering what year Dodge this carb is for. Any early Dodge experts know? Thx, Richard
  11. Thanks. Here is a pic of what I have. Pretty plain so assume its not a Cord! Like many things I have kept so long that it has no use or value!
  12. Good advice, Thanks. I just have the stalk- the torpedo shaped piece that goes on the column which has the selector switch. Richard
  13. I have an Electric Hand shifter used on 1935-38 Hudson's and Terraplanes. Does anyone know what the value of these are? I'd like to sell it to someone who needs one for their car. Thx, Richard
  14. Thanks Henry. You can text pictures to 575-654-0124. Richard
  15. Looking for an inside garnish molding (window frame) for the driver door window on my 1930 coupe (see example in the attached pics). I believe left and right sides are the same. The frame measures 27 1/4" wide by 14 1/8" high by 1 1/4" deep. There are 3 mounting holes on the top of the frame and 3 holes on the bottom of the frame. The holes are spaced 8 1/2" apart. There are no holes on the sides of the frame. Thx, Richard
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