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Must be older and newer photos!

I had to repair 1 "B" pillar on my '36 dodge sedan in similar condition. I cut out the bad sections, piece by piece, not all at once, so as to keep the structure in place. I made new repair pieces and welded them as I went. Like Knobless mentioned, if the '38 cars are similar and you could find a good replacement, then that might be a better and easier route, but I doubt you'll find a good pillar for a panel. I also had to hand form and replace both rocker panels. Good luck with your project!

I've never found those questions to be intrusive or degrading. Some folks still appreciate someone who can or at least try to do things for themselves. I'm proud of what I can do or try to do even if it's not show quality. I think having a hands on experience draws one closer to the project and adds a greater satisfaction when the project is completed! Also, the person who does their own work has a greater overall knowledge of the vehicle. Besides, in my area, if you don't do it, you may not find anyone who will! I've always been more put out with the guys who brag about what they've accomplished in a restoration, but never touched the project themselves!

I would check out Restoration Specialties too as they have a nice selection of window channel and rubber extrusions to pick from. Rockne is a rarer vehicle and most likely there will be no direct replacement parts listed, even by Steele Rubber. Jeff at RS will send you some free samples of window channel and rubber that you could make a gasket from, or you can look at the website and check their catalog. Unfortunately, it's probably going to be a trial and error thing. Good hunting!

It would help to know what kind of material you're looking for. There are still several upholstery suppliers out there like Bill Hirsch or SMS, but you may have to settle for something close as many fabrics are hard to come by. With the loss of LeBaron-Bonney, suppliers are dwindling , prices high and deliveries slow because of Covid. I was hoping to purchase real mohair material from Lebaron when they went under and was surprised by the high cost of fabric, so I searched the internet and found a domestic manufacturer that made material for Lebaron - Bonney. I was able to purchase some at a really good price, but I had to buy a whole roll of 50 yards. I decided to pull the trigger and then sold off what I didn't need! Worked out really well, I got some really nice fabric and was able to help out others with their needs and save them money too! The whole process took time and a lot of phone work but paid off in the end. Could be an avenue for you if you can't find what you're looking for! Good hunting!

My question is , why would you need to?

Get in touch with Don Axlerod the headlight guy on this forum. He should be able to help you!

The real pros treat their water supply with a rust inhibitor to prevent flash rusting. I think, conventional blasting works just as well and is usually less money!

By 'loom", I trust that you mean the wire loom for your car. I know that you are in Australia, but you might try Rhode Island Wiring in the U.S as they have some of the nicest wiring kits on the market. You can check them out on the internet! Good hunting!

Looks like most of the leak is coming from the rear seal. Does that car have an overdrive in it, as the rear of the transmission looks different? Seals are usually easy to change, but for now just keep an eye on the level. I would recommend using at least a 140wt. gear lube which might ease some of the leakage. I don't think that there is a seal in the front of the transmission, if it's similar to the Dodge unit, but they can leak from the front. Are your u-joints exposed or are they covered with a leather boot?

My slowest car was my 1928 Ford pickup, which cruised best between 45 and 50 mph. Slow by today's standards, especially for a trip on the PA turnpike. I loved it though; you could drive the back roads. relax and take a good look at the surroundings. Today, everything is so fast!

I know of an all original, complete, unrestored '33 Plymouth coupe that sold for $10,000. But that doesn't happen everyday! The fact that your car has been altered and disassembled is definitely going to hurt the selling price. If the frame and body have not been altered, and if you have all the original parts and engine, that will be a plus. Just have to find the right buyer. The lack of replacement parts and the cost of restorations today will be a factor, but some of the rod guys will still put out big bucks. Hate to see it be rodded!

If I were you, I'd get a good rebuilt Zenith. You may have fewer troubles.

Thanks Alan, I couldn't find my source. Henry, I believe they're called u-joint boots.

If you can find any, get the covers that are split, lace up type, then you won't have to disassemble the shaft.

The second photo is definitely NOT the same car. Looks suspicious to me!

From what I understand, there may be a small fitment issue where the fender meets the splash apron. I think that the curve has to be reworked some, but I'm not positive. Check on the Ford Barn or on one of the Model a club sites, there's a lot more activity on those.

The rods should be straight not bent. Being bent is an indication that something wasn't right. I can't make the rods any longer, they'd only get bent for lack of travel. Looks like I'm going to have to mount the body and see if that helps. It was hooked up before I took it apart, so it should go back together again, theoretically speaking. Thanks for the comments!

Thanks Kevin. The shocks can only mount one way. The link rods are in front of the rear axle and are only about 11 in. long. The shock arms are integral with the bodies and cannot be repositioned. There are 2 bushings, a top and a bottom, on each end with the nuts at the ends of each rod. This allows for some flex in the system. The photos are mostly worthless unless one is familiar with the setup but these are all I had.

And nobody pays any attention to the speed limits anymore! I blame that on the cops and their superiors, giving people up to 10 miles over the posted limit. Give an inch, they'll take a mile!

I've replaced the original rear shock link rods with new ones that I made that are an exact copy of the original, but seem to have an issue. There is no way that I can get the shock arm to get anywhere close to hook up the link or even to line up properly. The frame is bare right now. Does it require the body weight to push the frame down far enough for the rod to meet the shock arm? The bare body doesn't seem to be near heavy enough to push the frame down far enough. The shocks only mount one way, and with the bare frame, the arm, when pushed down the whole way, just meets tip of the rod at an odd angle. Seems like this would put a lot of stress on the rod and the shock arm. I see on the lower shock rod mounting plate, that mounts under the spring, has a dipped recess to accommodate the rubber bushings on the link rod. I'm pretty sure that this "dipped' part faces downward in it's correct mounting, but I'm not certain anymore! I would appreciate any help. I think Plymouth had a similar set up. In the first photo, if you look real close, you can just see the top of the link rod, near the bend in the brake hose, and the left shock arm. The second pic better shows the mounting of the right rear shock.

Check with D and D Automobilia in Lincolnton, NC at 704-748-3447.

I believe that there should be a channel, about 1/2 in wide that runs around the body opening. The weatherstrip fits into this channel. The photo is of a '36 but I think the set up is the same. There are two sizes of this shape extrusion, this is the smaller of the two.

The build card should tell you, but since the Chrysler Historical Society site closed awhile back, I don't know if you can still get that info!

Take a look at Paul Shin's Model A videos on Youtube. He's found some LED bulbs that have the yellowish light, which looks more period correct but still has the brightness that you're looking for. I think the guy that was selling them is a Norman Wells. I don't have any issues with certain upgrades like bulbs, how often are the lights on anyway!