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It might be the angle of the shot, but looking at the way the spare is mounted and the runningboards look long, it might be a 7 passenger sedan. The telling factor would be 2 small folding jump seats behind the front seat. If it is a 7 passenger, it's rather rare and very difficult to find parts for because so many are specific for that body style. The engine number won't tell much info but if you can get the serial number on the right side "A" pillar, door jamb, that would help narrow down when it was built.

Sent an email several days ago, did you get it?

I'll check today and see if I still have them.

I think I still have a couple from a '36 Dodge sedan, if you're interested.

I'm surprised that there is no access plate. My '36 has a round access plate directly over the sender unit on the trunk floor. I wonder if someone closed it up at one time.

Sounds a little high priced for that vintage and described condition! You might contact Vic Panza on this forum as he had a truck close to that year.

I remember seeing these for sale on the forum....was it Knobless by chance, he's made some parts.

Just to add a note. Most stores will carry grade 2, grade 5 and grade 8 bolts and nuts. Again, plating color is not always indicative of grade. Low carbon fasteners, such as grade 2 are usually in raw steel but they can be found plated. The standard low carbon lockwasher can be found plain, plated or black. Grading on American fasteners, and unfortunately, I don't believe any are made in this country anymore, is as follows: Grade 2 will have no head marks or 1 raised or indented dash mark, Grade 5 will have 3 raised or indented dash marks and Grade 8 will have 6. At least that's how it was a time back. Most Grade 5 and Grade 8 will be black, but can also be found in zinc and yellow zinc plating. Fasteners for sale in hardware stores are usually colored to help distinguish grade but mostly for protection and appearance. You may find Grade 8 lockwashers along with the grade 8 bolts but there is no real advantage to using them on standard or grade 5 fasteners. Stainless fasteners are graded by their ferrous content, like 304 for standard bolts, which may have a slight magnetic attraction and may rust if filed with a steel file. 304 SS is a little harder than Grade 2 but less than Grade 5 in strength. This is the stainless most commonly found in hardware stores. 18-8 or 316 have less ferrous content so they're more rust resistant and are a little harder than the 304 SS. You should never use standard stainless bolts in a strength application. You always have the option of using star type lockwasher which will do a good job too, but they are not available in stainless, that I know of.

Hi Pete, I did purchase one from Bernbaums that looks just like the one in that ad for $36.00. They both are "new" but still do not have the correct design pattern of the originals, but that's not really an issue. How many people actually notice the designs on the pedals? The originals, I believe, carry the same design as the running board mats. I have an original '37 NOS pedal that has the same deign on it. Thanks for the followup. P.S. you have to watch the year listings as '36 is different than the '37 and up pedals in the placement of the mounting hols.

Having sold fasteners for 25 years, I don't recall any grading on standard lockwashers. There are some specialty types used in industry, but it's highly unlikely that you would ever see that type hardware in a hardware or big box store. You'll see different shades of plating on some hardware, but color in itself, is not indicative of grading.The little marks you see are most likely from the manufacturing process. Split lockwashers are designed to compress with slight tension and should only be used once.

Unfortunately, none that I know of, unless you would have some parts fabricated .

This reply is only my opinion. I needed rockers and a tailpan for my '36 Dodge and looked for a source. It seems to me, and I may be incorrect, that all the replacement parts for these cars are handmade and there may be more than one person or persons manufacturing the parts. I've seen advertisements on several sites. I ordered a tailpan from a guy on Ebay but, while very nicely made, did not fit well at all. I returned that part and ordered one from The Plymouth Doctor at a slightly higher price. It too was very nicely made and made from heavy steel, but it didn't fit that well either, although, it was closer than the first part. I had to do a good deal of work to it to get the right fit and in the end , it did the trick and I'm happy with it. I don't have any experience with the other suppliers and was told by one dealer, that the parts were made from patterns of Plymouth parts which may or may not have anything to do with fitment. I also know of another Dodge owner who ordered floors for his car. While he was happy overall, there were some bends and contours that were missing and had to fitted for them to work. There are not many options for parts for these cars so I say take a chance, but make sure they can be returned if you are not happy with them. As for me, looking at the price of the rocker panels and noticing that they were not made in the correct contour for my car, I opted to build my own from scratch. Be aware also, that there can be a long delivery time involved because of the parts being handmade. Make calls, ask questions and get a feel for the suppliers before you buy. Good luck!

I would think that doping or painting would make the fabric stiff. probably the best option is to replace the headliner if it's that bad.

That depends on what year your vehicle was made. Most antique cars use a lacquered cloth beaded fender welt. If you're looking for some,especially the original type, I suggest you contact Restoration Specialties in Pa, as the still carry the most original material. They will send you a free sample if you ask. it does come in different size beads.

Is there any way to get ahold of this guy?

Check the " Parts For sale" section, there is a guy selling 5 '28-29 rims with tires.

How are the front fenders and the floor pans? Do you have all the parts, tailights, grille, bumpers?

Check out KM Lifestyle co. They manufacture fuel senders for these cars at reasonable prices. Got one for my '36 Dodge.

I thought of those cotter pin type split rivets they use to bind papers together. I tried a couple of small brass ones; worked great but the prongs are not sturdy enough. Have to look for something similar but more substantial.

Thanks Jim

The term 'antique' can be a relative term. In my statement about the truck not being an antique, as I would look at an antique, simply means that it doesn't feel like it's old enough to be 'antique' to me. While it falls into the 25 year or older category, I was a young man in 1975, purchased my first new vehicle, a 1976 Chevy p/u and started restoring my 1928 Ford p/u. So to me, a vehicle of this vintage, still feels like a 'newer' truck or just a truck. Maybe it's just the coming to grips about getting older; my kids call me 'antique'! When I was a teenager, the'50's cars were still just 'used cars'! But by AACA rights, it is an antique vehicle, and we do get some comments on it from time to time. Restorer32... Nanty-Glo or the original spelling Nant-y-Glo is a small coal mining town just outside of Johnstown PA. It's name ,in Welsh, means Streams Of Coal.

Thanks Jim. I went ahead and made a pad for the toeboard out of the regular 'jute' felt that Restoration Specialties sells. It's about 1/4-5/16 in. thick. I think that the floorboard pad may have been cemented to the floor mat as a separate piece as there are no holes for the rivets in it. I'll probably make the floorboard pad out of the same material and glue it to the mat material that I make the floor mat from. I don't think anyone makes or sells an original type floor mat for these cars. Could you do me a favor and look at the accelerator shaft grommet on your car, that is if it's still there, and let me know if the body of the grommet protrudes toward the inside of the car or toward the engine side. I found an old toeboard that still has the grommet part of the seal in place and it appears that the body goes to the inside. Another member thought that it faced the engine side, but I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure that the grommet in the old part is original. Thanks JIm

Not a real antique, by what I term an antique, but we still use our '75 Chevy C65 dump in our construction business. 45 years young, rode hard and put away wet, but still on the job, although, the old 427 is getting a little tired!

Thanks, that's what I was thinking too.

The accelerator shaft grommet is installed in the toeboard hole, but mine are all missing and I don't have any reference as to which way it goes. The grommet has the grooved portion at one end and the body extends about an 1 1/4 . My question is, does the extended part face toward the interior portion of the car or does it face the engine side?