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Hi Keith, I've been really enjoying your Youtube videos and really like your cars. I have a '36 Dodge sedan that I'm trying to put back together for the last 30 years! It's original color is very close to the color of your Chrysler, but couldn't find anyone that could match it! I have a good friend who had a '37 Chrysler Imperial that I got to drive, wonderful cars! Hope you can get your '38 on the rode soon and keep the vids coming!

I made a firewall pad for my '36 Dodge using the painted cowlboard, a piece of 1/2 in Homosote and 2 layers of the "jute" padding. It came out almost exactly like the original. I got the rubber strip from a company called Rubber Sheet Warehouse on the internet. I repainted the cowlboard to match the original gray. I bought the board and jute from Restoration Specialties. I got a damaged sheet of homosote from my local lumber co. for next to nothing! The homosote replaced the pressed fibre matting very well.

I see a good many of these in the mid west.

Referring back to the previous thread on working antique commercial vehicles, I decided to build a model for son of his work truck. It was the first big purchase he made when starting his construction business and he's rather proud of it, mainly I guess because it is an antique. this is mostly a scratch built job and I tried to capture the worked but not worn out look. Of coarse, I'm no Roger Zimmerman, but it came out fairly well. There is a lot of work to convert a standard square body into a short nosed medium duty! The bed and hydraulic lift is totally scratch built. I was fortunate to have found a guy building the same type of model who 3 D printed the grille, which really looks realistic and makes the model! Here's some photos. The last two are from the real truck. Sadly, I have no way to make the white decals! Enjoy!

Are you sure that's not a '37 as Dodge didn't use the cylindrical shocks until '37 and the hood side mouldings look different. It may be a '37 titled in late '36. That happened frquently!

Ford used the same engine in both cars, pickups and heavy trucks. The heavy trucks were geared lower for power but not speed. JamesR is correct, all long distance shipments were made by rail. I've had Model A's and can't imagine driving that rig!

Sorry, I think you did mention that! My bad.

The B and B carb is not the correct carb for that car. it used a Stromberg EXV-2, which will work better than the B&B.

Photos would help as the AA shells are different from the car and p/u shells and stainless ones are rare.

They can be hard to find in good useable condition. I can rebuild them for you along with the rear upper upper one. I can also make you new window beltstrips (fuzzies). Let me know if you're interested. There is, or should be a little tab on the bottom of the front channel. Bend it down and the part will push up and out of the main channel. It may need a little help as they can be pretty tight. The upper rear channel should have a piece of lined channel attached to the bottom of the upper part, it also just pushes up and out. There is a "T" shaped clip on the rear if both parts that hold them in the channels. There is a piece of lined channel , about 4 ft long that goes from the front beltline to the top of the upper rear channel. I can tell you what the correct channel is for that and the rear doors as they are different. PM me for more info. or questions.

Good one Ron! Incidentally, there were no Phillips head screws used in '36 Dodge production. How's that for "detective" work! Happy New Year!

Looks right. The switch is connected by a shielded cable to the coil, which mounts on the firewall. I've noticed , in your pics, that someone has changed some of the electrical stuff. Always best to put it back to original. There is no need for 12 vt upgrades or alternators if properly repaired.

Congrats on your purchase! Looks like you have a long road to travel! Where are you located? I've been working on my '36 Dodge for about 30 years now! I see that the car looks to have a good grille assy., parts that are really hard to find in good condition! Be careful with it as a good grille center could run upwards of $2000.00! Don't expect to find a large selection of repro parts for these cars like you can for Ford or Chevy. What body panels are available are expensive and from my experience, not accurately made and require a good bit of reworking to fit. Many of the mechanical parts are still available and can still be had locally if you do some digging. If you're serious about restoring this car, I suggest that you purchase a Motor's Manual and a Dodge Master Maintenance manual for reference. Don't be afraid to ask questions on the forum as there are a few guys that really know these cars. I do happen to have a good roof insert and the top sides if you should need them, much of the body trim, and can guide you on parts and services. I can also rebuild the front door window channels and beltstrips and have patterns for many of the interior parts. Steele Rubber has the best quality rubber parts, but at a price and not all fit as well as the might! Restoration Specialties has many of the body side moulding clips but not all, as some are no longer available. If you need help or have questions, please feel free to message me anytime. Have fun!

I believe that, with the exception of Ford, that most production engines were painted as a whole unit after assembly. As for your question, do what is easiest for you!

There used to be a product called 'Rub N Buff' which worked well for things like this, albeit still labor intensive!

Good quality wood kits should be available from any of the Model A parts suppliers, like Snyder's and Brattons. They may come with diagrams but you should be able to find many photos and info on the Model A club sites like MAFCA and MARC. If you are unfamiliar with the A's, you should purchase as much literature as you can and study up. All the suppliers carry these books and get a copy of the Judging Standards too. There's more info on A's than any other car out there I think!

Have you tried Robert's Motor Parts, he might have them.

Maybe '37 Chrysler

My dad was born in'24, suffered through the depression, lost his mother at 15, his dad at 17, was drafted into the army and served 3 years in Indo-China, came home to raise his 7 year old sister by himself! He became a carpenter and I swear he could fix anything but a car. He hated to work on cars! He never seemed to relax much, he was always working on something! One time in the early'60's, I saw him raise a 12in x 20ft concrete pipe and stand it on end by himself! He was a very strong man, and could be hard at times , but he taught me how to work and to be a man. I and my son both followed in his footsteps!

My daughter -in-law got a call from a police officer a few days ago claiming to have found a package for her lying along side the roadway about 6 miles from her home. By chance he knew her and made the delivery! It's anyone's guess how it ended up on the road! We also had one package shipped from Arkansas to PA. that made 2 trips to California before it ever got to PA! Fast service no matter how long it takes!

I'm glad that you found the right car! Hope the car is all that you want it to be. It is a nice car! Sometimes you're just in the right place at the right time! happy motoring!

My '36 Dodge had a thin paper gasket under each gauge body and the speedo housing.

I would suggest that the top cover is there for the addition on a hinge mount mirror. As outboard mirrors were still an accessory, the hood allows the mirror to be mounted and remain stationary when the door is opened and closed. Just a guess! No idea about the 3 hinges.

I have garnish mouldings for all 4 doors but they do need sandblasted and refinished. The holes may not line up as I have found, with 3 different cars that they are not all made the same. It appears that you are actually missing the windshield frame as it is a swing out type with and outer stainless trim. You cannot see the dash screws when the frame is installed. There is a special rubber seal kit you need for the windshield and that piece pictured is not it. I'll see if I can get a picture out to you. There's a guy in Texas who might have a frame. If you're interested I'll send you his number. Incidentally, there are no Phillips screws in a '36 Dodge, so some body has been messing with it.

Note, that the front door window channel does NOT extend down into that wide channel. That is a separate piece as is the upper rear of the front door curved channel.