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have you tried NAPA or an independent auto store? Companies like Advanced Auto are worthless for finding older parts.

I f I'm not mistaken, you should be able to purchase those bulbs under the 55 and 63 numbers at any good auto parts store. They may also be available in LED on the internet. I think they are both single contact bulbs.

If the shaft is free, all you should need is the spring, which is readily available. Refer to your master manual to see how to install it correctly. If you choose not to repair it, when the weight is down, the manifold is open.

Not too shabby! Nice looking car!

The thread is 5/16-24. Just run a 5/16-24 die over the threads on the shaft. I bought a nice original looking knob at NAPA for under $10. I did have to sand it a little and resprayed it with a satin black and it looks just fine. I wasn't paying $50 for a shift knob!

I checked, I don't have any extra. My Dodge lamps take 3 on each side, does Plymouth only use 2? If need be, I can stop at RS, as they're close to me, and see if they have any.

Did you call RS as they have a lot of stuff that's not in the catalog. I may have a couple extra; how many do you need?

My dad was not a car guy. While he always had a newer car, and many station wagons, he did not like working on them. When I was 17, I brought home a Model A Ford that I was excited to start restoring. That day, when he came home from work and found the car, he walked over to me and gently said "Get it the hell out of the yard'! It was just a piece of junk, and he was afraid that I'd waste a lot of time and money and end up with nothing. He did change his tune when 10 years later, he slid behind the wheel for his first drive. It brought back memories of his childhood when his father had a '28 Ford truck and he and his brother had to ride everywhere in the bed, even in bad weather. I think he was pretty proud that I had finished it, but he never really said.

If you're serious about restoring the car, use the best parts from each and and sell the rest. You may never find another really nice parts car.

I might have one from a '36 Dodge which uses a MAW-4010. Wonder what the difference is?

Only a thought. I had a set for my '28 Ford roadster pickup that might work depending on the thickness of the posts. The Ford post were tapered top to bottom and flat in the front and rear. Depending on the thickness of your posts, they might work. They mount through the rear of the posts. Again, just a thought. Sorry, the photo doesn't show as much as I thought it might, but you can see them in any Model A catalog.

I may have an extra, I'll have to look. I'll try to look today, if I can remember. They are out of a '36 Dodge 4 door sedan

I was told that Ebay no longer allows direct contact between sellers and buyers, I guess to eliminate off site deals.

As stated, it should have a builders plate on it somewhere that might indicate age. looks as though it's had an update with the brakes and rubber tires. I don't believe they used rubber tired wheels until the late 1800's.

I would advise, that if you are not familiar with top upholstery, to find a good upholster to install the top for you. there are some things best left to the professionals. But to answer your question, I believe that the fabric is tacked with small nails at the top seam along cross bows and along the beltline, as are most soft tops. The nails are then covered with a matching hydem welt which is also tacked on. you may be able to find some articles online showing the process of installation.

If you are looking for the seal for steering and shock components, you will probably have to buy new parts for those seals. You could , with a great deal of research, try to find alternative modern seal that will work. Today, though, this can be rather difficult. I would search different rubber manufacturers or companies like McMaster Carr to see if they might carry something that you could make work. You might also try places like The Plymouth Doctor or Bernbaum Auto Parts but most likely you'll just have to adapt something to work. On these cars, there may be no easy fix like the Ford products, many times you'll have to improvise.

I'm in west cental PA and they predicted 6-12 inches from 10 AM wed. to 7 AM Thursday. It started to snow about 9:30 Wed. morning but petered out about 1-2AM Thurday. We got, maybe 10 inches,but in the mountains here, totals can vary within a few miles. Looks like we might have a white Christmas after all!

I would think that any good plater can repair pot metal castings. I use Paul's Chrome Plating in Mars PA and they've done excellent work on all the castings I had done, plus, it's all guaranteed.

The free enterprise system is a great system which allows each of us to buy and sell for what we think something is worth to us. The question therein is, how much is too much? Is it really fair to overcharge simply because one can? We see overpriced items all the time in our hobby, and in all aspects of commerce; sellers just waiting for an uninformed sucker who will pay the price! Eventually, one will price himself out of the market completely. Overpricing only serves to kill the business in the long run!

If the u-bolts are in good condition and the threads are sharp, I wouldn't hesitate to reuse them. You may want to get new nuts made, and use the long type nuts. I reused both the bolts and nuts on my '36 car with no issues. I just tightened them as tight as I could get them; just make sure they have the same torque value on each bolt. I don't think your truck is going to see such severe service as to cause any issues. Do clean all the mating surfaces well so they tighten up correctly with no gap areas.

I have noticed that the play in my '36 Dodge box lessens as it turns full right or full left. The most play seems to be in the center. I don't think that 1/2 is bad at all. Might want to check the stops on the spindle. If the steering gears go too far left or right, you might experience a binding.

If you have the correct old tank as a pattern, check with some of the good tinsmiths in your area to see if they could make one. I had one made for my '36 Dodge by a tinner, now defunct, and it came out perfectly. All rolled and soldered seams with galvanized steel. wasn't cheap but it was worth the money. He reused the old fittings and even installed a baffle.

I just use 140wt. gear lube in mine. Seems to work OK.

Check with Vic Panza on the grille color. I think there were a couple of options on that.

The eye is pretty badly worn, and too, I would suggest replacement. The silent 'U' bushings are screwed in and can be a tight fit.