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Off topic, but why would someone put all that money and effort into that car, then turn around and make incorrect door panels!

If that metallic stripe is the plating showing through the decal, have your printer print the decals on clear transfer so the plating shows through. That's how the Dodge decals are done.

In my opinion, if you want to remove the rust, the best way is to sandblast the parts, then finish like any other metal parts. That will give the best results. If you wish to keep the 'patina', clean the panels well and the topcoat with clear.

Talk about stupid things. Years ago, I worked in a popular local auto supply store. The owner's son also worked there for a time. This kid marched to a different drum. So one day, a customer bought several long pieces of premade brake line from this kid. After making the sale, he found a thin box, folded up the lines and stuffed them into the box so they would be easier to carry! You should have seen the look on the customers face! Priceless!

I may have a couple but they won't be perfect and may have to be restored!

All of the garnish mouldings and the dashboard itself were painted woodgrain. The ash trays, box doors and instrument panel were nickel plated and covered in a woodgrained transfer. Diran Yazejian used to make and sell these beautiful decals and no longer offers them, but his components are for sale. I need one of his original ash tray decals myself! Your best bet now, would be to take an original piece to a good sign shop and see if they could make replica decals for you. I had that done for the instrument faces on my car. Here is a shot of the gauge faces and the transfer. If needed, I have some of the gauge decals left. It's hard to see the detail of the grain decals on the instrument panel but they are the same as the box panel in grain detail. If any one has an extra ash tray decal from Darin in good condition, I would be interested in it. As a note, the bar area of the decals is clear to let the plating show through. Darin's decals were originally silkscreened and I was told by several signshops that they could not duplicate the sharpness of the originals, so I opted not to have all new ones mad if they wouldn't match. let us know how you make out!

I know of at least 6 cars squirreled away within 2 blocks from my house . A '32 DeSoto 4 door sedan, a '29 (?) Chandler 4 door sedan, a '47-'48 DeSoto Club Coupe, 1931-31 Model A 4 door sedan( Murry, I think), '51-'52 Ford F1 pickup and I can't remember the specifics on the later model ones. All of them need restored but are in fair shape, and I'm told most are for sale, but asking prices seem high. The '32 Desoto and the Chandler had been running recently. There are lots of old cars around here, but prying them from their owners fingers can be quite a chore, especially at a fair price!

Forums like these are invaluable to the hobby! Aside from being a parts source, I have made connections with folks who share my interests in the car that I have that I could have never made without the forum. We have the opportunity to meet people from all over the world, to experience the great talents of others, such as Roger Zimmerman and his models, and to glean information like never before. I'd be lost without this venue and the folks I have meet here! Keep up the great work!

If you are using a reproduction cap, make sure that it fits the dist. body tightly and that all the contacts are the same distance from the rotor. Some of the new caps are so poorly made that they move and are not concentric which can give you fits. Also, sometimes when using some of the replacement upper plates, the contacts can short out diminishing spark. Also, did you take out all of the rotor backlash after timing? You may also have a loose contact in the dist. These are just guesses though!

I've had parts primed with self etching primer for almost 15 years with no issue. I'd just scrub them down well to get the dirt and film off of them, scuff them down and reshoot with a good primer. If you are doing any filler work on them, do it before the final primer coats. If there is a substantial amount of rust, then your best bet would be to reblast them. After the primer sets then finish coat them.

Easiest just to remove the toe board! That can be done from the inside

Do you know if the starter and rod are the same as '36 Dodge cars? If so , I may have some parts.

PM sent

Judging from the photos of a rough casting, there seems to be way too much finish work to make it affordable or practical. With the amount of good original engines still available and the cost to rebuild an original it seems more prudent to stay with an original engine, if for no other reason than keeping a good car original. Today it's so hard to find an "A" that hasn't been upgraded some how to make it drive more like a modern car! I say, if you want to drive a more modern car, then buy one! A correctly rebuilt and maintained original engine will most likely out last the owner, especially as for how much these cars are really driven. Besides, like 46 Woodie stated, the Model A, as with most old cars are starting to lose the interest they held even 40 years ago!

Head torque is 65-70 ft.lbs.

You have to watch the weave. Fabrics like mohair are graded by what they call 'grin', which is how dense the nap is. You can tell buy folding the material over in and seeing how much gap is between the rows. The material I purchased has virtually no grin running the width of the material but is more pronounced along the length. This will definitely affect the amount of material needed so there are no unsightly folds visible. I also found out that much of the lower grade or faux mohair does not have woven fibers, they are glued onto the backing. This may be satisfactory for curtains but it won't hold up on auto upholstery. I was also told that, say a mid 30's sedan, will take about 15 yds. for the seats, door panels, and qtr. panels.

I know that I don't have any complete ones.

Do you need the entire visor or just parts .I may have some frames from a '36 Dodge. I'll check.

I agree, you'll never match the same material or color. Don't use faux anything as you can still get the real thing. PM me as I just went down this rabbit trail.

Any 6 vt blower type motor should work, although you may have to fashion a holding bracket. You may be able to find a new motor at NAPA , Rock Auto or on the internet..

You might have better luck using hole punches, or taking a piece of small tubing, sharpening one end and use it in the drill press rather than the bits. Bits tend to grab and tear where a smooth sharp edge should cut better. Like the sharp disc blades for cutting hose.

Sounds like a plan, although, they can be a little difficult to drill. Good luck! With these cars, ya' gotta' do what ya' gotta' do!

It's mounted just to the right of the instrument panel near the bottom of the dash. There is no choke control on the Dodge as it had an automatic choke, So, depending on where your choke cable is mounted, I would route it through the grommet that gives the best free action to the carb. I errored on the choke cable comment in the previous post.

It does pass through that oval grommet on the far right side. My Dodge only had 3 holes in the grommet; choke cable, cowl vent drain and vacuum hose to the carb for the wipers. On the Dodges , the throttle cable goes through the lower grommet. Here's a pic, but not of my car. Plymouths may be set up a little differently.

Yes, when the engine is cold the spring will lift the weight up. As the engine heats up the spring releases tension and the weight will fall, opening the passageway.