jpage

Does anyone out there have any current, modern, paint formulas for 1946 CJ 2 colors Harvard Red, Universal Beige and Autumn Yellow? Yes, I know that these colors are available through some parts houses but we're looking for lower pricing and ability to buy locally. Any help will be appreciated.

Check with Jeff at Restoration Specialties and he can send you samples of sponge rubber to try that should suffice. You can also look at their catalog online. They have several different profiles of extrusions made for these applications, it will depend on the depth and width of the channel. Their phone is 814-467-9842.

If you can find the part number on the mounting post, I think there were a couple of guys looking for one of those lights!

They look like Restoration Specialties number 1360. I would call Jeff at 814-467-9842 and ask, but he may need a sample to be sure. many of these clips are no longer available now, though. good hunting! You can look at these in their online catalog.

Yeah, My '28 Model A RP. It was a dream come true that I started at 17. My wife was against it but I sold it anyway! Big mistake!

If you have a good tinsmith in your area, you may check with them to see if they can build you a new tank. Today, though, so many businesses are worried about being sued for something, so some won't do the work. I got lucky, and had a tank made that looks original and fit to a "T'.

I agree with Joe that rust must be eliminated completely to be effective. Depending on the part and the degree of corrosion, sand or soda blasting, chemical dipping or replacement may be necessary. I myself, am not keen on the rust stabilizers, but if it's gone, chances are that it won't come back to haunt you later!

Looks like the later 7In headlamps were added!

The raised, modern hot rod looking plaits are what's out of place. The seat looks good though!

Off topic, but why would someone put all that money and effort into that car, then turn around and make incorrect door panels!

If that metallic stripe is the plating showing through the decal, have your printer print the decals on clear transfer so the plating shows through. That's how the Dodge decals are done.

In my opinion, if you want to remove the rust, the best way is to sandblast the parts, then finish like any other metal parts. That will give the best results. If you wish to keep the 'patina', clean the panels well and the topcoat with clear.

Talk about stupid things. Years ago, I worked in a popular local auto supply store. The owner's son also worked there for a time. This kid marched to a different drum. So one day, a customer bought several long pieces of premade brake line from this kid. After making the sale, he found a thin box, folded up the lines and stuffed them into the box so they would be easier to carry! You should have seen the look on the customers face! Priceless!

I may have a couple but they won't be perfect and may have to be restored!

All of the garnish mouldings and the dashboard itself were painted woodgrain. The ash trays, box doors and instrument panel were nickel plated and covered in a woodgrained transfer. Diran Yazejian used to make and sell these beautiful decals and no longer offers them, but his components are for sale. I need one of his original ash tray decals myself! Your best bet now, would be to take an original piece to a good sign shop and see if they could make replica decals for you. I had that done for the instrument faces on my car. Here is a shot of the gauge faces and the transfer. If needed, I have some of the gauge decals left. It's hard to see the detail of the grain decals on the instrument panel but they are the same as the box panel in grain detail. If any one has an extra ash tray decal from Darin in good condition, I would be interested in it. As a note, the bar area of the decals is clear to let the plating show through. Darin's decals were originally silkscreened and I was told by several signshops that they could not duplicate the sharpness of the originals, so I opted not to have all new ones mad if they wouldn't match. let us know how you make out!

I know of at least 6 cars squirreled away within 2 blocks from my house . A '32 DeSoto 4 door sedan, a '29 (?) Chandler 4 door sedan, a '47-'48 DeSoto Club Coupe, 1931-31 Model A 4 door sedan( Murry, I think), '51-'52 Ford F1 pickup and I can't remember the specifics on the later model ones. All of them need restored but are in fair shape, and I'm told most are for sale, but asking prices seem high. The '32 Desoto and the Chandler had been running recently. There are lots of old cars around here, but prying them from their owners fingers can be quite a chore, especially at a fair price!

Forums like these are invaluable to the hobby! Aside from being a parts source, I have made connections with folks who share my interests in the car that I have that I could have never made without the forum. We have the opportunity to meet people from all over the world, to experience the great talents of others, such as Roger Zimmerman and his models, and to glean information like never before. I'd be lost without this venue and the folks I have meet here! Keep up the great work!

If you are using a reproduction cap, make sure that it fits the dist. body tightly and that all the contacts are the same distance from the rotor. Some of the new caps are so poorly made that they move and are not concentric which can give you fits. Also, sometimes when using some of the replacement upper plates, the contacts can short out diminishing spark. Also, did you take out all of the rotor backlash after timing? You may also have a loose contact in the dist. These are just guesses though!

I've had parts primed with self etching primer for almost 15 years with no issue. I'd just scrub them down well to get the dirt and film off of them, scuff them down and reshoot with a good primer. If you are doing any filler work on them, do it before the final primer coats. If there is a substantial amount of rust, then your best bet would be to reblast them. After the primer sets then finish coat them.

Easiest just to remove the toe board! That can be done from the inside

Do you know if the starter and rod are the same as '36 Dodge cars? If so , I may have some parts.

PM sent

Judging from the photos of a rough casting, there seems to be way too much finish work to make it affordable or practical. With the amount of good original engines still available and the cost to rebuild an original it seems more prudent to stay with an original engine, if for no other reason than keeping a good car original. Today it's so hard to find an "A" that hasn't been upgraded some how to make it drive more like a modern car! I say, if you want to drive a more modern car, then buy one! A correctly rebuilt and maintained original engine will most likely out last the owner, especially as for how much these cars are really driven. Besides, like 46 Woodie stated, the Model A, as with most old cars are starting to lose the interest they held even 40 years ago!

Head torque is 65-70 ft.lbs.

You have to watch the weave. Fabrics like mohair are graded by what they call 'grin', which is how dense the nap is. You can tell buy folding the material over in and seeing how much gap is between the rows. The material I purchased has virtually no grin running the width of the material but is more pronounced along the length. This will definitely affect the amount of material needed so there are no unsightly folds visible. I also found out that much of the lower grade or faux mohair does not have woven fibers, they are glued onto the backing. This may be satisfactory for curtains but it won't hold up on auto upholstery. I was also told that, say a mid 30's sedan, will take about 15 yds. for the seats, door panels, and qtr. panels.