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I was fitting the toeboard in my car today and for the first time noticed 8 1/4in. holes in the pan that are not mounting holes. Does anyone know if there was an insulator mat pined to the top of the toeboard, and did it go over the entire piece or just the foot areas. I'm suspecting that 's what they were for. None of my 3 cars had anything left for reference, except one or two small rivets. I also assume that there is an insulator mat under the front floor mat area on the floorboard too. I'm also curious as to how thick a pad would be. All help greatly appreciated.

Get in touch with Vic Panza on this forum, he has a nice one for sale!

Thanks Pete. I did look at it but haven't made up my mind yet! Might just have it rebuilt.

Thanks all for the info.

Thanks, I'll have to check them out.

Thanks guys. I looked at Ebay but could not find the listing. I did , however, see about a 1000 listings for a water pump that you can buy at almost any auto parts store!

I used to have a paper that had all of these listed for marques and years, I'll have to look for it.

I think that this kind of thing plagues all of the low-medium priced autos through the years! The stick welds around the cowling and body subframe on my '36 Dodge are pretty nasty as well. Some places even have holes burned through, and these are welds you can see. The cars were built quickly and were only meant to have a liftspan of about 3-5 years. I'm leaving them alone as I think they show the real character of the mass produced cars of the time. Nothing is ever perfect. Not to mention the grind marks on the seams and factory paint runs!

Looking for a nice, usable gas pedal for a '36 Dodge D2 sedan. '35 parts book calls for no. 495993, later books call for no. 717919. Engine mount must be in good condition with the rubber mounts intact and still live.

Looking for a nice, usable gas pedal for a '36 Dodge D2 sedan. The '35 Parts book calls for no. 495993, a later book calls for no.717919. Also need a good front engine mount no.637426. Rubber must be intact and still live. '36 mount has 2 studs on top and 2 on the bottom offset.

Firetrucks are only as good as the water supply available for it's use!

Looking for a set of standard front fenders for a 1936 Dodge car. Must be in good condition, straight, no deep dents, cracks or rustout. Preferably east of the Big Muddy! Thanks in advance! '36 DeSoto Airstream and some Chrysler fenders are the same with different catwalks.

I'm looking for a good set of standard front fenders for a 1936 Dodge car. Must be in good condition , straight ,no deep dents, cracks or rustout. '36 DeSoto Airstream and some Chrysler fenders are the same but the catwalks are different. Preferably east of the Big Muddy! Thanks in advance!

I have a set of seat adjusters from a '36 Dodge. Don't know if they will work. They are in fair shape only they are missing the lever tension springs, which could be made from piano wire, and 1 foot has a little rust damage on the edges. If you could get some measurement for hole placement and height, we could compare them.This style uses a center seat frame mounted release handle. I also have a used a connector dimmer switch from the same year vehicle. It has the female bullet terminals on it, but 1 is loose.

You might try Restoration Specialties in PA. You may have to make up your own from bulk material. They have a glue on seal no. 4745 listed for Ford '57-'64. You can check out their catalog online at restorationspecialties.com. They can send samples. Good hunting!

Thanks for the info. I have never seen another and mine was not as fancy as the one in the photo!

Here's a photo of me with my new pedal car in 1958. I've been searching to find what brand it was and any history about the manufacturer, but haven't been successful. I've never seen one like it at any meets or antique shops. If I remember correctly, the body was yellow and the trim red. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I really have no answer for you but I have been thinking about this situation for my '36 Dodge. Have you actually taken it out on the road at night yet to see where the beams are focused in relation to the roadway. With the new bulbs, I'm sure that you can actually see better than with the old factory bulbs. I would think, and just my opinion, that the left lamp could be tilted slightly downward and to the left to highlight the berm side lines, and I'm assuming that your roads are marked on the centerline and berm sides, similar to the U.S.. The right lamp could be tiled slightly downward and to the right to help illuminate the centerline better and to keep the beam from getting in the eyes of an oncoming driver. If I remember right, most of these old car lamps where center focused about 3 ft from the floor, which may not give good highway illumination. just some thoughts, but I guess trial and error is probably the best way to get the illumination that is comfortable for you. Good luck and happy motoring!

Oh! Hi sis!

Don't worry about that! In those days, it was not uncommon to have a car titled in the year it was sold and not the year of production. Happened a lot with early built cars. I have 1 '36 Dodge that was titled a '35 because it was built and sold in December '35. Fools a lot of folks. Did you see my PM on the parts guy? Always mention the Canadian build issue. They can be a bit different than the American built cars.

I can't find anything in any of my manuals that describes that removal and insertion of the tailight lenses. You will notice that there is a little notch on the inner rim that should be at the bottom of the housing. Check to see that the retainer spring is installed with the tabs pointed outward and at the 9 ,3 and 12 o'clock positions ,so that the slice in the ring is at the bottom at the notch. You'll notice too, that the lens has a round dot cast into it which indicates the bottom of the lens.Insert the edge nearest the dot into the rim at an angle pushing inward and down. The lens should go into the housing with enough clearance to pop into the top with a little pressure. Removal is opposite. Press in and down on the dot and that should move the lens down enough so the top pops out. Some replacement lenses tend to be a bit wide and will not fit right. I've already used my bench grinder, and good eye wear, to grind a little off of the edges of the lenses to make them fit better. Hope this helps, they can be a son of a gun.

The Master Maintenance manuals show the wiring diagrams but not where they pass through the firewall. you'll probably have to find some photos of a car to see those kind of things. Most manuals only show some diagrams of the mechanicals and overall pictures of the body. Best to look at some good restored or original cars for better details. I'm sure, once you've determined the year , that there are many owners who would gladly send you photos. When restoring a car like this, I think it's always a good idea to spend some money and find a good parts car, not only for parts but for comparison. I had to by 2 extra cars to supply parts for my '36 Dodge, and all 3 cars, built at different times through the year, had minor differences in parts and construction. You should be able to find runningboards fairly easily, there might be new ones available with the mats moulded to the steel. A good deal now as there is no one that I know of reproducing runningboard mats in the U.S.at this time. Don't be afraid to ask questions, that's what this forum is about!

Is this car stock or has it been hot rodded? If it's stock there is no reason to switch over to 12 v electrical. Some body parts are available through the a few early MOPAR parts dealer but are mostly hand made and good fit is a tossup. Mechanical parts are fairly easy to find.The vent windows were new for '37 and the dual wipers were probably an accessory. Not sure what you mean about the front seat.You should be able to find a good many original replacement parts on the internet and through forums like this one. If you can find a parts interchange book, it will help in determining what parts from other marques, say Dodge and Desoto, might fit your car as to broaden the search. Don't be afraid to seek help, there are many knowledgeable guys on this forum, however, if the car is modified , say with modern running gear and engine, some of the hotrod forums may be of more assistance. Have fun with your 'new' car!

For mechanicals I use a Motor's Manual that covers that year. You might also try to find a '37 Plymouth Master Maintenance book as they have more info that's specific to the car, both mechanical and body care. You have to hunt the internet to find these.

Correction, I have 1 complete hood, less center hinge and 1 pr. extra side pieces.