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I believe that the Model A suppliers also carry them

Might try Restoration Specialties at 814-467-9842.

Those short trim pieces can be a real bugger to find. Looks like you're also missing the 8 cross piece trim bars for the grille sides and a door handle. Give Ron Lyons a call at 713-805-3949, he may be of some help.

Basically....no!

Thanks for all the replies, but it's still hard to know what the best option is. The car is a '36 Dodge that will probably see less than 500 miles a year at about 50-55 mph top speed. I'm leaning to replacing them but I'm a little sceptical about the quality of the new tires and tubes, given the fact that everything is probably imported. If anyone knows of someone who could use these tires please let me know! Thanks again for all the help. I'm just curious why Coker dropped this brand, or maybe I just can't find them in their listings.

Back in 2001, I purchased a set of Goodyear 6.00x16 WW tires from Lucas Tire. As it happened, I was not able to get the car finish till now. The tires are still wrapped in their original plastic coverings and have been stored in a cool, dark place. What are some thoughts that you guys may have on using these tires. They may still be good, but who knows. I thought about selling them for possible use on a static car, like a museum vehicle. I see that this brand seems to be no longer available.

At the speeds today, no car is safe in a head on collision! You can't live your life being afraid of everything! Heck, life kills ya'!

My first project was an old Model a Ford dootlebug that was given to me by a friend when I was 17. My family was none too excited about it when I brought it home. The only comment my dad made was, "Get it the hell out of the yard!". It took me 10 years to complete it in a little garage 10 miles from my home. I didn't have any photos of it when I got it but here's a few of the finished car. Kept it 16 years after restoration then , like an idiot, sold it to do another car, which I'm still working on! These pics were taken at time of sale. Coincidentally, the license plate number matched the year it was registered!

This may not be the same, but on my '36 Dodge car, the accel. spring just hooks onto a cotter pin head inserted into the hole on the firewall. Pretty mundane really.

I do believe that those companies all belong to the Coker organization, which is no longer associated with the family.

Glad you found some!

Does it run on varnish or shellac? Cool piece!

Did you try any of the Model A Ford supplies, I think they used to carry it.

In my opinion, I wouldn't powder coat anything on an antique car. It takes some work and expense to get the pitting out if you want a really smooth surface, but it can be a real pain to repair if and when it starts to chip or peel. Paint is always the best route, but that's just my opinion!

I had a devil of a time trying to get a color match for my Dodge. None of the old paint codes are still in existence, and none of the current colors matched close enough, so I had to try to get it color matched. Every one of the paint dealers, even those with the high tech cameras, told me that they could only match to colors already listed in the current system, and unfortunately, their young staff had neither the skills or inclination to do any hand mixing or research. I finally found a company that had people who knew what they were doing and one of their guys took the time to hand match the paint. Took about 30 days, and he came very close, but when sprayed it darkened a bit, but matched another, slightly darker shade, that was original for that year, so I went with it. In retrospect, I could have used some colors already available, and while they didn't match exactly, they would have been close. Really. whose gonna' know but me!

Can you post a photo, I might know someone who has something

I'd say that you have a long road ahead of you, enjoy the journey! Where are you located, judging by the neighbor's plate, looks like PA.

Check with Jeff at Restoration Specialties at 814-467-9842, in PA. They should have some.

Cost would depend on what's wrong with it. I would imagine that a complete build today would cost upwards of $4,000. Looks like a fairly nice car though!

On those pieces, you have to make sure that the trim is free to slide. Then just carefully bend it a little at a time.

Roger, your work is mind blowing! So precise!

That's is considered a soft top insert as opposed to a steel insert top. Most all, if not all soft inserts were installed basically the same way. The types of finish trim and sealing methods will vary from make to make. You might try getting in touch with a local antique car club in your area and ask for help. A club member should be able to actually show you and explain the process.

You might try NAPA. They used to sell a nice chrome plated replacement gas cap. There is nothing special about the cap, just a plain, slightly domed cap with a serrated edge.

On the Model A wheels, check each lug hole to make sure they are not distorted, worn or cracked. The A wheels, if they are all about the same condition as the one pictured should be restorable. Also look for really deep pitting in the spokes. Minor bends in spokes can be straightened fairly easily. On those wheels, you are looking at a ton of filling work to get them nice again, but they could be restored if you are prepared to put in the work. I restored a set much like yours years ago. I did drill a couple of holes in the outer rims to clean out rust particles laying in the rim, then welded them up. The alternative; find a better set. be advised there are 2 different styles of the 21" rim. The early rims have a shorter hub depth than the later wheels, which can be hard to see by eye. although, those are most likely they later the later style. They both will fit but the early wheel hubs do not contact the drum when mounted on later style drums.

The fender welting material is mighty thin, maybe .010 or less.