XframeFX

My thoughts exactly, a need to fast track to make up for previous tasks and to move on to a multitude of tasks still to do. However, re-doing a task that did not turn-out satisfactory is more of a time sink. Pre-cut veneer - fine. Just make sure the pieces fall into position EXACTLY! Using an adhesive other than the default contact cement which is unforgiving might be better for pre-cut pieces. I used contact cement semi-wet on one side and in sections followed with my roller used on earlier DynaMat applications. Then face down with weights from my weight rack for a day before continuing.

I did this a couple months ago and it was a pain. Smitty's website has very good points. https://riviera65.com/portfolio-item/veneer-part-1-published-in-the-riview-march-april-2017/ I used a soldering iron on the tabs when bending them over. I should've done this when removing the panels. The tabs will break off. Using sheet aluminum is a good idea, easier to position. I used pre-glued veneer that had to be ironed-on. I struggled with sourcing aluminum but roof flashing from the same HW Box store I purchased the veneer from was just the ticket. Well almost, They were both in rolls. The original foil backed veneer was about 40 mils thick. So, the new paper backed veneer was about 25 mils and the roof flashing 11 mils, perfect. The trick is to cut the aluminum exactly as the old veneer. Then glue the veneer to the aluminum which never goes on perfect. But now, the excess veneer can be trimmed to the aluminum. If it weren't for the pieces wanting to curl, the piece should drop exactly into the steel panels. Use contact cement one side only and only on one end. The remainder of the panel can be glued with contact cement the next day after masking the wood from overspray.

I grew up in the rust capital of North America. At age 18, I prepared my $100 Ford Maverick in November for the coming winter by loosening the trans cooler lines on the radiator. I would then tear down the Trans Canada Highway at 80 MPH and pull off after a few exists to tighten those fittings and top-up with Type-F. My friends would copy me by rust proofing their winter beaters the same way! I remember my Dad wouldn't let me park on his driveway with the constant drip, but it would be all washed off by February and that road salt would take over.

On the power circuit of your amp, not likely. A relay allows connecting a heavier load directly to a power source that a switch cannot otherwise handle. A regulated PS will produce a fixed voltage as its main purpose, again not addressing transient spikes but it will be a clean voltage supply. So, back to a choke, its purpose is to absorb spikes in the supply.

A quick search and no turn-key solutions. I went to crutchfield.com and you'd think they would have something. Here's a general write-up: https://www.crutchfield.ca/S-sdxkyAck2p5/learn/big-3-alternator.html Try a local car audio shop as well. A sample DIY PS Product: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001018636795.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.5ad34baeA8CR9k&algo_pvid=81425db8-de14-4b8d-af6c-7545611eb18d&algo_expid=81425db8-de14-4b8d-af6c-7545611eb18d-7&btsid=0bb0624716021305997636155eeb9c&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

The amplifier is probably a Class-A and is sensitive to spikes in the power supply no matter where in the vehicle you hook it up. A regulated PS would be the solution or find an amp that has it built-in. On original radios, the same problem existed. GM used a CHOKE which is basically a transformer with a single winding on it. There will be a 1.5 V drop across it but so will a PS with a regulator such as those with an LM317. There are all kinds on aliexpress or, try an old fashioned choke.

Oh my. You have a '63 silver engine like mine and if I remember correctly, exhaust seat inserts - like mine. That is an exhaust valve but, I wouldn't think the Inserts the root cause. Valve height? I don't have an answer but will follow your troubleshooting on this. I imagine the other side is OK. Replace the rocker and hope for the best?

Wow, a period aftermarket piece? I never heard or seen one before. I installed an after market switch on an existing hole near the odometer reset. Not in plain view like this setup. This Switch appears to be 4-Pole and with a flasher and light. A 4-Pole switch is difficult to find even as aftermarket today. I say aftermarket because those connectors don't appear to be the GM Packard Series-56

Thanks for starting and contributing on this. It is on-my-list as well. Where can these vacuum hoses with colour stripes be sourced? I have found Old-Air as the only supplier so far.

Turb, I chose Fuel Injection Hoses (FI Hose) for all 3 sizes 3/8", 5/16" & 1/4" because Tom T. mentioned it and the Continental bulk dispensing rack at the jobber had them all poking thru the holes. Except for a significant price difference, it was easy to dismiss the dispensing holes with regular 30R7 hoses and opt for the 30R9 SAE-Specifications (FI Hoses). I don't think staying with regular fuel line hoses is bad. The originals lasted 50 years! The only thing that has changed is fuel composition. So, before your car is to sit for any length in time (over winter), I'd make sure you have ethanol free fuel in the tank and a shot of fuel stabilizer. The regular Continental hoses were "Made-in-USA" and the FI Hoses were "Made-in-the-Cech Republic" if that makes you feel better! Another upgrade is to use those FI Clamps that Tom mentioned (image). I'm not a fan of detergent fuels for carbureted engines but, I filled-up with Shell 91 which has 7X the requirement, is e-free and is a top tier fuel. Might be psychological but, I'd like to think this fuel will purge some of the crap from the pump to combustion chambers from annual start-ups on old fuel. The original AFB is a trooper, might be in an in-efficient state after all these years but a minor choke adjustment and all good!

Funny too!

Oh, another reason for going with FI Hoses, ethanol blended fuel.

Arthur, If you have AC on your '64, there are 3-sizes of neoprene fuel line. The hose you're working on is 3/8" With Tom T's help on this thread. I just completed replacement of all lines, front to back with FI Hoses (SAE: J30R9) The FI hose might've been overkill as the regular hose (SAE: 30R7) is plenty tough and should last 50 years as original. The 3/8" FI Hose was a little more prone to kinking but I'm happy with it, will last forever. Jack the front of the car up. That hose is primed to siphon if you pull it. Also, I'd block the vent hose looping over the tank filler neck. Cover the filler neck with Saran Wrap to reduce that fountain if you slip-up. That clamp is in the spring pocket. My 3/8" at the tank leaked under pressure directly on the muffler! This was when I was purging the tank. There's no siphoning there. On startup, if you're messing with any quantity of fuel outside of the tank, have a decent fire extinguisher close at hand.

George, 2 pluses on your project. 1) You started with a complete and running car 2) You took it apart and actually continued with the restoration! I've been in this only 5 years and during that time, I've seen way too many Rivieras parted-out. some that shouldn't have. Those that shouldn't have, started as restoration projects. After an audit, market values and a reality check, they abandon the project. Few people will take on a project in pieces from a Seller, unless of course its a GS and yours was complete so you know what you purchased. With current values for '65 GS's, you have lots of 'wiggle room' for costs. Building a car from parts is always $$$ no matter where you live. That's our car hobby. George, you are well on-your-way, it will be a beautiful car!

Could this thread be on how much I don’t drive my Riv? I have a little story too. It was a Saturday afternoon incident around 2004ish. But years prior to that and again on a Saturday afternoon, we finished up on a garage sale and items that didn’t sell got sent to the curb for Goodwill pickup. Well, there were these roof racks, I hated them as they whistled and cars no longer had rain gutters. Suddenly I had the idea to put them on my Riviera in the garage. I purchased 2 each 2X4 Shelves from Home Depot, placed them on the racks and now had a platform for boxes of Riviera parts! Jumping forward in time to that Saturday. I pulled the Riviera out onto the driveway for a garage cleanup. It was the only time I had it out since ’94 and it hasn’t moved since. With that bay of the garage now clean, I proceeded to wash the Riviera. My youngest son had placed pieces of masking tape over all the holes of the Riv’s body panels. After the careful wash and pictures (below), I couldn’t just drive back into the garage. Instead, sitting on an inverted milk crate, I drove it around the corner slowly to show the Riv to a motorhead friend. Grandma answered the door, she was baby sitting while the couple was on a 2nd honeymoon of sorts. OK, back on the milk crate with the Dynaflow in drive and creeping away from the curb when I noticed a pickup coming around the corner in my mirror (the last item I installed before it went into storage). So, I decided to wait for the pickup to pass. Question, what do cold brakes do? They grab! Everything on the roof rack, boxes and loose steel parts came crashing down on the hood! I was embarrassed as it was quite a scene, people looking. I didn’t care what damage, just wanted to get outta there. That hood was a replacement to the original which I tossed out 15 years earlier. To my surprise, no damage! Those racks with parts are still on my Riv now. But, lesson learned. When I finally pull her out for the 1st time since that incident in the next couple of weeks, the roof will be clear!

I've owned my '63 for 40 years and have put on ZERO miles in the last 30! Struggling to get it out before the snow flies. Still more to do. As for 1/4 mile, I wouldn't dream of WOT, I might break it! ☹️

Then, I'm on that Honour Roll as well from 1990. So far back that all I remember is I installed a used heater core (oh oh) and my sense of accomplishment came from knowing there's no more disgusting crude in there. Maybe I should pack a mop with that fire extinguisher and spare timing chain set!

Dennis, some fine work! I can imagine what you went through to achieve this. Engine compartment, very nice. "Driving great and having a good time", well deserved! I'm not far behind you and determined to get mine on-the-road before snow flies, Will post some images when I get my '63 out in the open away from walls and overhead garage doors.

Andrew, Thanks Yes, for a couple of years now, I try to convince Vendors to ship via USPS which Canada Post brings to my door. Zero Hassles! Couriers don't get it. They think the market is to have it in your hands the next day. It took 2-weeks for the last order thru USPS 1st Class and didn't get ripped-off. However, if a vendor refuses USPS, I choose either FEDEX Intn'l Express or UPS Int'l Priority where those services include brokerage making it 1 less fee. I also ship to the Authorized FEDEX location at the airport, now 2 less fees. For on the Commercial Invoice to Canada: "Antique Auto Parts - Harmonized Code 9966.00.00" My kid who lives away still uses our home for his project parts shipments. He doesn't listen and lets the vendor ship their preferred way. The Courier dude is laughing with all the charges COD!

Update: My Friday shipment from a preferred vendor included the Tank SS Sending Unit. No disappointment and being all stainless steel except for the rheostat cover, better than OEM. The P/U Sock is in the exact same position. However, no documentation. Online research indicated 40 and 30 ohms with 35 ohms on my old units. So, I discovered the new unit to be 35 ohms as well. I learned the unit is purposely designed with a LARGER RANGE THAN WHEN INSTALLED IN THE TANK. This now makes sense. So, the gauge on the dash has a range of 0-30 ohms, NOT the Sending Unit. Documentation should accompany the part stating to: "TRIAL FIT WITH THE UNIT IN THE TANK using a multi-meter and adjust the float arm accordingly to achieve 0-30 ohms. That's flipping over the tank. The usable range in the tank is tight (tank is undamaged). I could barely achieve 30 ohms for full scale. The manual says to factor in a gallon for reserve at zero ohms. Don't think I have that, 0 ohms means fumes! A shorter float arm would've helped. My initial install out-of-the-box would've registered 5/8th on the fuel gauge with a full tank! I didn't see a need to dent the tank anywhere with the return line. All good in that regard.

Yes, the mounting bosses are there on my non-power vent panel. It has more micro-pitting then the original that had the door slammed on it, breaking it it 2. Cutting a rectangular hole will reduce the area of visual blemish. So, you have me looking at this option again. Maybe roll-in replating as part of the process. Would replating be possible with that ribbed profile? As for cutting out an opening, my backyard method is to drill a hole at each corner and join-the-dots with 4 cuts. Not for a visible piece such as this. How to cut out the opening will help me to find a local shop to do it. I like that alternate motor assembly idea. An alternative to those replacement gears which I hope remain available.

I switched to Synthetic motor oil for all my rides back when it became available and purchased only what was on sale. I can't say the same for Non-API oil and that's what we're talking about here. Think about it. Why would a retailer stock the stuff? I seriously considered going the Amsoil route with their 'Z-Rod' product. But, late last year, I found a Jobber, a discount supplier at that with quite a selection of motor oil with ZDDP including Lucas Oil. All Mobile-1 motor oils up here are API oils and stay away for my nailhead. From what I recall from an oil seminar a decade ago, wide multi-grade oils have a shorter oil change interval. Can't remember if was for synthetic or mineral formulations? Oil Filters too, NAPA Gold always out-of-stock. Fram PH-11 availability iffy at other stores. So, K&N #HP-2003 was only a couple bucks more and on-the-shelf at a speed shop. Support them for thinking of us.

I never was a fan of wide multi-grade oils back when we used conventional mineral oil, all those additives such as viscosity enhancers in place of base stock. Not sure nowadays with Synthetic oil with improved flow at ambient temps. Even with temperature extremes where I live, I choose 10W-30. My kid's M3 non-turbo takes BMW Turbo oil 10W-60 with no mention if it's synthetic! In my locale, it was tough to find anyone selling Non-API Oils. I settled on Royal Purple Synthetic HPS 10W-30 from a speed shop. Their Product Data Sheet makes no mention of how much ZDDP. I have since found a discount Jobber with a huge selection of ZDDP enriched Motor Oil. 1st and last time Royal Purple, pricey and the colour looks already dirty on the dip-stick!

I learned this back in the 80's making a hard right-hand turn while driving over a bump. Seen sparks emit out the gap between the fender and hood. Oops, I did 2 fixes immediately after, 1) Turned the battery around, 2) Installed the original battery clamp (modern battery is not as tall).

From 2015 (did not purchase) Fits?: