XframeFX

OEM is best. Aftermarket or Replacement usually a disappointment when installing yourself. That's when you notice shortfalls. You want the "highest quality available", Clark's Corvair is the closest to OEM. Their Service on my last purchase was tremendous. They must be well set-up and in a COVID world, another good sign. John B.

This is my 2nd pair of door veneer panels and I now realize I installed them in 2015 from another that received a botched upholstery job in the 80s. So, those tabs have been bent plenty of times. The only thing on Clarks' are rear seat Armrests and that folding center rear armrest. I might call them. Of my 2 red door armrests, they are symmetrical by design but they are different. One has a sewn-in pocket which is evident just above the stamped steel hand-pull cup along with a seam. The other with the steel hand-pull removed shows a 1 piece heat formed cover. Peculiar, both are from the same car. Thanks, John B.

1) In assembling my Door Panels (custom Interior), I now have 2nd thoughts on re-installing the padded armrests as is. I'm thinking of having them re-covered. I'd like to go local this time since it appears I have a competent shop in my locale. What kind of RED VINYL should I ask for? I've read 'Madrid Vinyl' for '65s. The same for 1963? 2) While on my door panel, notice that I have yet to install the steel panel with Veneer. On the other door panel, some steel tabs didn't like being bent 1 more time and broke off. I know, I straightened them just enough to remove the panels to minimize bending but some snapped off anyway. Before applying new veneer, I tried to restore ductility to the tabs with a torch. Now oxidized halos around each tab. See if that works. Anyone had the same issue when re-installing Door Veneer? John B.

Sorry to hear of what Sandy did to your wheel covers DrownedRiv. Hopefully the rest of your Riv was unscathed. Saltwater washed off immediately should cause minimal damage? Keeping a car outside, you take a chance with the elements. Keeping it inside, there's fire. I don't believe in car lifts or even jack stands. A 30 lb fire extinguisher in the corner of the garage and wheels that are ready to roll on my project. I even have fire & theft on my project. Not much good without an appraisal, but I have it. Thanks for posting those images. Good to see you and Winston lucked-out! I have a set for my '63 that appears identical except for the Tri-Shield centers. They have been in my basement for 40 years. So, even though they are not NOS, 3 appear perfect to me! The 4th? Well, have to remove it from the wheel to notice blemishes. I too am challenged for steel wheels. I have 2 each 15X6 and 2 of the 15X5.5 wheels John B.

Old Air Products has been good to me for the few pieces I purchased from them. After making cables and levers for my '63, I discovered a complete cable set produced by OAP. If only I had known. I find I'm spending too much time researching but for this job, apparently not enough. I like OAP for supporting OEM systems as well as offering their modern retro-fit systems. OAP often have booths at car shows with product! Canadians like cash 'n carry. Good install Mike. John B.

I would change the vent window rubber and channel too. John B.

That '64 has potential, nice. Keep it drivable if you can while you transform it to your liking. Cars & Coffee - The Syracuse Nationals would've been this past weekend at the state fairgrounds. Next year. John B.

Thanks Bill, I never thought to check the Buick Body Manual or search this Forum for your post on this very thing. I referred to the Manual for seat back separation instructions, nothing new, just common sense. However, being 1 washer short before taking my seats to the shop and now having 1 extra, I'm convinced those rigid black fiber washers belong UNDER THE VINYL with another OVER THE VINYL. Can anyone check by feeling if the vinyl collapses around the outboard pivot shaft or if a washer can be felt through the vinyl? Thanks, John B.

I want me those Train Horns! (not the 24V kind LOL)

4-Note Horns? LUCKY DUCK!🔊

Early 1963 Rivieras had no center rail in the fuse panel (fewer circuits). Also, the wire harness with this early production had separate mini-harnesses for options such as power antenna and rear defogger. Your car being a March '63 might be the late production with your rear defogger built-in to the the main harness. If so, under the radio, the instrument panel harness would have a tag. Green for rear defogger and power antenna. Red circle shows the green tag and blue circle the resistor for the 2-speed defogger. The resistor is sandwiched between the dashboard support and glovebox. Fire hazard? Inspect your instrument panel harness. If nothing else is wrong, adding a replacement fuse panel might be feasible. Otherwise, look for a good used replacement harness. Mine was hatched in several places, too far gone. John B.

Kim, regarding your fuse panel, Late 1963 and 1964 Rivieras use a 14 circuit item. One side and the middle (pink) is switched 12V and the other side (red) is live 12V. The fuse clips are available from Delmarwire.com (in quantity) but only the common 16 - 18 AWG for crimping. Also, bussed clips are used and are unobtainum unless you make your own from those crimp-on clips. I'm not sure what aftermarket fuse panels are out there but, I think it would be better to go that route or find someone to send you a used harness with the rear defogger option (green tag I think). Not far from the fuse panel is a 12 circuit Firewall bulkhead connector. DO NOT REMOVE THE BULKHEAD FROM THE FIREWALL. It has to be cut out which I did because I had a spare. I did manage to re-install but it took a long time after many tries. To remove the instrument harness, take a picture and release each of the 12 connectors from the bulkhead. Some images I have on file;

Back to Seats - 1963 Bucket Seats. I just picked-up my seats from the know-it-all upholsterer today. I was short a black fiber washer at the seat pivot before. Now I have an extra washer. I mentioned to the upholsterer that maybe there's 2 washers at each pivot, 1 under the seat bottom vinyl and another ABOVE the seat bottom vinyl. This is what I suspect but he said NO! Where to find another washer if I have to open some hog rings to put the washers back? It has a 1/2" hole. Anyone? Thanks, John B.

Paul's application (PWB) is for a '67 and, not a squarebore carburetor. More gasket choices for the Quadra-Jet than for our squarebore nailheads? John B.

Bill, it appears we are in lock-step with our projects. My bucket seats are still at the upholsterer and I learned a few lessons there. Why is it there's bad resources out there and I end up doing or re-doing it myself? This time, there's a 45 year upholsterer telling me there was a better path than the one I chose. Doing things the hard way - again! The seat frames were so rusty, I had to remove the PS track for media blasting. Along with that 1" re-position, I can now see that the front mount can be shimmed-up slightly to give it a little more tilt. Use up some leg length. Good thing I installed the rear seat as original and not make the same mistake as on the front. The rear frames might be rusty too. But they look good and if it ain't broke . . . . John B.

Tom, that '64 Lesabre might not have been original. The reason for wanting to check the castings with a magnet. Notice the X-Flow radiator, not correct for '64. The transmission was an ST-300 Variable Pitch with maybe the desired 12" torque converter? I only encounter SBBs, NEVER any Nailheads these days. I checked on this car before last winter and someone removed the finned aluminum front drums. Chris, I did see your post earlier. I might've chimed-in on that one. John B.

Tom, that image was a '64 LeSabre in a junkyard 2 years ago. I had removed the kickdown/switchpitch switch earlier. I removed the 4331S carb after I took the picture and was charged $100. It's a decent carb but too small for my 401. I only wanted it for the primary shaft. It's a 300 cu. in. 4BBL. I forgot to bring a magnet with my tools on each visit to check if the heads and intake really are aluminum. I've attached a beeter pix. The car is still up there. Andrew, I purchased HW to swap in what you're swapping out from Russ years ago. In my local, a '64 Electra Conv. received a 4L60 with that bellhousing and is pleased with the results. Not sure what carb setup he has. I suspect he has a 2X4 setup. John B.

I see James at BestOfferCounts lists a Best Gasket heat shield. He scoped-out the best one out there for our Nailheads? John B.

So, what carburetor alternatives are there for the 401? When I swap-out the Dynaflow, I still plan to exchange the 1963 AFB 3503SA primary shaft to one from a 1964 AFB 4331S (image) to enable use of the kickdown/switch pitch. John B.

Feedback is Key. Sharing expertise is up there too. Of course this has me thinking of details on your AFB installation. John B.

Agree

Ed, those nice white leather seats, very nice! Rich, I squinted on that 1 image of yours to try and make out the model number - Delco 980657? Yep, my SAMS PhotoFact #25 has it for 1964 9 transistor AM Radio. All Delco radios starting with '9' during that era are for Buick. If it's too far gone, would be perfect for an Aurora Design conversion with that Seeking Bar. +$500 but the best! It would fetch a core price as is. For a Dealer: http://www.tech-retro.com/Aurora_Design/Home.html My '63 WonderBar is a model Delco 980463 but looks the same. John B.

There are fewer locally owned jobbers in my locale but they are out there. Failing that, I have several big Industrial Supply Companies dealing with everything under the sun including Automotive. One is especially good with helpful staff. I purchased GM Packard Electric Series 56 terminals, Series 58 terminals (for headlights) and automotive GXL Wire last week - in stock! Also, a local purchase empowers the buyer to return a product if unsuitable. Being on the wrong side of the border, I avoid online purchases. Also, I don't want to give any business to those Courier companies! As for Gaskets, Still looking for a local Jobber that can source Best Gasket products. John B.

I find it is the same for 1963 seatbelts. For that year, anything goes as long as it's functional and has the period correct anchor bolt. Red, green or blue generic mats near impossible. I stumbled upon generic red rubber and later, generic red carpeted mats years ago at liquidation stores. Not today. I remember embarking on a road trip with the family when the kids were young. Our ride at the time was a year old Gr. Cherokee (I think). While sipping her coffee, my wife would say "ah, still has the new car smell". I didn't want to spoil her experience by admitting it was actually the cheap off-shore mats I bought the weekend prior off-gassing inside our confined space! John B.

For the rear edge of the package shelf above the 3 trim screws, I used a U-Welt commonly used for fork lift and marine seats. A little on the fat side but makes a nice transition to the rear glass. Black the usual colour. Had to paint mine red only to discover red welting at a surplus store weeks later, Riviera luck. Pasted as a huge image, sorry. John B.