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TheOldMan

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  1. I would like to thank everyone who gave suggestions in dealing with this project. I took Tom's advisement and used the 64 support and drilled out two holes 1 1/2 ' apart, 3/4 in from center line of frame and slotted them to acquire a 1/2 in spacing from transmission. The frame has enough metal after this procedure to be strong enough to hold the support. Also, if I wanted to,I could have added a 3/8 in plate on the bottom of the holes to give added strength. All is superior to the way it was. Dennis
  2. I think you guys are spoofing us. 😜
  3. Thanks Ray, When the two supports get here, with both suggestions, I will need to chose one. Like I said before, you guys are the bomb. The suggestions you give to myself and others are great. Thanks for all your input. Dennis
  4. Tom T, Got it. easier to drill the holes in the frame. NP Thanks.
  5. Ray, Great write-up. thanks for the info. I purchased both center support bearings and I will take your suggestion and modify the support to accommodate the 2 1/2 ' bolt hole connection. Also Spicer is my choice now a days. I used them before. I think they are better than Moog and I will use those. Have them coming already. Might as well rebuild the driveshaft while I have it out. Thanks to all for the guidance and help. Dennis
  6. Ray, thanks for reading the thread and your first post. Should have included all that info, sorry. The post was started because the car was making a squealing noise right under the trans tunnel. Just to be sure, I put the car on my lift, strapped it down to the supports, started the car, lifted it up and with a stethoscope found the squealing right where the center support bearing is. Now, after much time and the help from Tom, Tom, and others on this forum and much research, I found out that my motor, transmission, driveshaft, rear differential, and rear axle are all from a 64. But, the center support bearing is a 63 measuring 5 1/4 " high and the holes are 2 1/4 " . Also the center hole for both the 63 and 64/65 center support bearings are exactly the same 1.575 ". That means to me one can use either one as long as the geometry is correct . So, it might be possible to use a 63 center support bearing and a 64/65 driveshaft. Now, after it is all back together I will do the math and see if geometry dials up okay. I also agree that it might not be that critical as long as one is using a 64/65 CV joint rear shaft. Dennis
  7. Very nice car Tim. Have fun with it.
  8. Ed, do you have a picture of your 63 drive shaft connecting to the pinion? Love to see it.
  9. Thanks Jim, I think that might be the case. Everything I see down under seems to be just that. This site is fantastic. Thanks for all your help.
  10. Hi Ray, My tranny is a TH400 (ST400). Here is the pan from the tranny. I do not have the driveshaft out yet, but I measured the bolt width of the center support from under the car and it measures 2 1/4 inch center to center. Also here are two pictures of the universal joints at the differential. Hope this will help you guys.
  11. Does anyone know what the part number is for a 1963 Riviera driveshaft center support bearing with bracket? Reading the chassis manual, it states that '63 and '64 have different driveshafts and they take a different center support bearing. so this begs the question, Which one do I have? My driveshaft has two universal joints at the differential end of the shaft. Is this a '63 or '64 driveshaft? Reason for the question is my car is a '63, but has a '64 motor and tranny. If the OP changed these parts, would the driveshaft need to be replaced also? Wow what a mess I am in. Thanks for reading and your cooperation. Dennis
  12. 303 elbert county, co
  13. Thanks John. It takes a while to put back a car to somewhat original condition. Sure things are not exactly the way the factory put it together, but it looks great and runs fine. Don't hurry the process. enjoy the time working on it. This is not the only ride I completed. Been doing this for years. Just my first Riv.
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