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Does the '63 Riviera have the same ashtray light? 1st time doing details such as this. John B.

Especially with the Dynaflow.

1st Tank? That will be a milestone for me because the last time I said "Fill-er-up" was in the '80s. Now it's Self Serve. The drive to empty will be an adventure for sure! If it wasn't for COVID, I might've been looking at 2021. A Low priority no more! TX! John B.

According to Brian's List, he installed 5 LED 194s and 5 LED BA9s from Superbright LEDs, a GOOD source. I installed 4 LED 194s from Kwikwire and 4 LED BA9s from Superbright as it actually says 'dimmable. However neither dim with the headlight switch. It might dim slightly then, off! Testing on a power supply, both types of LEDs (194s & BA9s), dim between 4.5 to 7.5 volts. Above 8 V, they are full-on. The rheostat/pot on my headlight switch simply cannot achieve that range with the light load of LEDs. Maybe mix-it-up with some incandescents? Easy to replace with the dashpad off. Mine still looks killer as well. Be sure to order 'cool white' for all instrument panel illumination. And oh, My 194 LEDs flash with the horn! John B.

Cyl-1: What appears to be slag in the last 2 images is actually 2 dimensional trickery? Again, all 8 Exhaust seats are in-place and was my original intent for the inspection. John B.

Tom T. - "posting some of those pics" There's so many of them. There were two 90 deg. tips and I suspect I used the worst of the 2 because a couple of Cyl-8 has a good shot of both valves deep in the hole. One with the exhaust open and the other with both closed. For the remaining cylinders, I had to get close as the light was weak. Exhaust valves on Cylinders #2, 3 and 4 did not appear to open as much as the others in the images. So a quick measurement confirmed it. I then noticed I could compress the pushrods with thumb pressure for the exhaust on those cylinders. Cylinder-4 had the lowest compression value of 148 PSI and images showed many features like hieroglyphics on a cave wall! Cylinder numbers are at the bottom and I'll post just the even bank because only Cyl-1 shows a peculiar slag in the combustion chamber. Burning old fuel is not good! Again, I plan to register, insure and DRIVE my Riviera in the coming weeks. It fires right up no problem. Thanks, John B.

So, on borescoping. That is exactly what I did, about 30 images per cylinder through the sparkplug hole. A challenge to 'look backwards' when doing the sparkplug hole. Tom M is absolutely correct. I need to DRIVE my nailhead first. When the bucket seats are back from the upholsterer and a few other details to follow-up on, I plan to drive the Riv out of it's 25 year cocoon! Back to the camera. There were 4 lenses in the kit I borrowed. 2 for 0 degrees and 2 for 90 degrees. With the 90 degree tip and articulating the probe 90 degrees with the joystick, I could look over the shoulder 180 degrees up at the valves. Two things, the image capture had 2 resolutions with the hi setting only 250 Kbytes file size! Also, the light was not nearly as bright on either 90 degree tips as the 0 degree tip. What did this excercise accomplish? My exhaust seats are still in-place. I have to ignore my other observations because I couldn't tell what I was looking at. Casting flash, crack in the casting, a barnacle on a valve? I installed the heads back in '93 and noticed nothing out-of-the-ordinary. Looking at those recently purchased heads for reference - just Plain Jane pent roof combustion chambers. "Nothing to see here". Good thing this didn't cost me anything except time. John B.

Ya, it's looking like I'll have to pull the intake and valley pan. It is a 70K mile engine and always had quality antifreeze freshened-up a few times since it became mine in 1980. Naturally I'll re-use the timing cover if still good. I'm just wondering if a modern crankshaft seal fits the old cover. As for the lifters, They were new Sealed Power HT896s from the valve job in 1993 and clocked maybe 10 miles since! They have more wear on them with annual startups in the garage. Image below is of cylinder #5 showing a little oil on the lower side. Felpro head gasket? Since the piston is down, cylinder wall is on the right. Enough researching and testing, time to start tearing into it. I now have a spare set of core heads and a Chinese 5-vane water pump. I will post some pictures that will be more for the purpose of sharing. I think once apart, I'll know what to do. I think the repro timing cover is back in production if needed. Thank-You, John B.

I have a good memory, it's just short! My compression test was recent so I do recall zero difference when I re-did the test on some cylinders where the throttle shaft had snapped shut. I averaged 160 PSI - no carbon build-up I agree, if it ain't broke . . . . ! Considering using a sealer in my fuel tank or replacing it. My experience with replacements in the past on other vehicles, not nearly as good as OEM. John B.

Ah, the Steering Wheel, you got it! My mind has me questioning anything that is not symmetrical. Bill, I have those Inner Beltline Whisker Strips coming. No receipt or tracking number. I hope they arrive! John B.

Thanks to all for posting those Pix's. However, Doug was wondering on the fit around the Accelerator Pedal. Turbinator Bob, I have to thank-you for posting your pix's. Not for the mats but for your seats. I have the same red leather and black seatbelts in my '63. I hastily separated the seat backs from the bottoms to deliver to the upholstery shop before they closed. Later, I wondered on the little spring-loaded lanyard visible on the passenger seat in your image. I did not encounter the same on the Driver's seat. But according to your image, there isn't one for the Driver's seat. Wonder what it's for? BTW, your interior is a real looker Bob! John B.

I wish I had Tom or Russ in my Locale! Zimm63, you have exhaust seat inserts too? I now realize my terrible running 401 is probably old fuel. I haven't freshened-up the fuel for wanting to drop the tank to deal with the Fuel Pickup/Sender - - Duh, could be as simple as that. Thinking my Exhaust Inserts were a ticking time bomb, I did a compression test and all good. Also did a local Cylinder Head purchase a month ago just-in-case. Still concerned, I probed each cylinder in my nailhead and suspect a shallow seat installation and peening around the inserts. I have about 30 images of each cylinder scrutinizing the exhaust valves. The procedure showed all inserts are still intact. However, the images being low resolution, are of limited help, raising more concerns with observations in the pent roof of some cylinders. Turning the engine over by hand with the distributor cap off, man, my timing chain is real sloppy. Another item on my list! Another fear is Felpro Head Gaskets. I don't know if their supposed oil leak is internal. Everything is fine externally on my nailhead. One last observation and question, perhaps a stupid one. CAN THE LIFTERS BE DEPRESSED WITH THUMB PRESSURE? It appears some of my lifters have bled-off. It sure clatters when started but the hood is always open and it's in the garage. Thanks, John B.

Tom, thanks for enlightening us on the business end of our nailheads. I knew about composite head gaskets affecting overall compression ratios over the OE steel shim. But I thought surfacing the heads during a valve job (when they installed my exhaust seat inserts) offset the thicker head gasket. Of course I forgot to ask how much of the surface was machined. I would still use the best premium fuel in my 401 since it is not a daily driver and it was rumored Shell includes a stabilizer in their higher octane offering here in Canada. Makes me feel better. John B.

Well, all this dialogue has me thinking regarding my nailhead. I purposely leave the fuel level low hoping to address the fuel tank that has a damp spot in the corner and questionable fuel gauge sender over the coming winter, then next winter. Many winters have gone by and still haven't addressed it. Otherwise, I usually add fresh fuel periodically. I run my garage-bound nailhead about once or twice per year, not on fumes but pretty low on fuel. It must be especially low as I haven't added any in years. Anyway, it runs terrible on start. After warming up and off fast idle with the choke open and lifter clatter subsided, the nailhead's 'thumping' resonates inside the passenger compartment at idle, like a 'miss-fire'. Now I'll add old fuel to my trouble-shooting List when I finally get it out of the garage. Could be as simple as that - I hope. There is a difference between a sealed Jerry Can (full) or a vented car fuel tank, full or not. I run my equipment dry, tank and all. If just the carb, the petcock is closed and the tank's vented cap screwed-on with a plastic bag. I agree, if you do not consume much fuel, who cares about cost? John B.

The Turnswitch.com link Ed posted mentions 'gutting' the old electronics and retaining the mechanical tuner. They use acclaimed Aurora Design products which has 2 attributes. 1) Retain original look because it's inside the original radio cabinet with original faceplate 2) It is reversible. So, why gut the old stuff? I'm sure the conversion can be completed leaving the old circuit board in-place. I installed a 3.5mm "Aux-In" stereo jack in the '63s ashtray compartment to the original Delco Radio. The Jack has two 500 ohm resistors to combine both channels into mono. I then purchased a bluetooth receiver since the new 'thin' cellphones no longer provide a wired output. If you can DIY, works great! There are also cigeratte lighter bluetooth receivers out there but I am using the unit below https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-PCS-High-Quality-3-5mm-1-8-Audio-Stereo-Socket-PCB-Mount-PJ306BM/142016664812?_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20170221122447%26meid%3D8a42bc77fcdc47119cc2355294622a88%26pid%3D100752%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D141778007430%26itm%3D142016664812&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982 John B.

It appears Jan's link is regarding Paul with the nice Obits. I did not know him but miss him already. Sincere Thoughts to his Family. John B.

I will quite likely contradict facts above. This is because Seatbelts varied a lot for 1st Gen. Riv's. I spent way too much effort trying to be correct with my '63. What I've found is 1965 production is when GM started with in-house sourced standard seatbelts (Fisher Division?) For my '63, they outsourced like we do the aftermarket today. 1964 appears to be a mixed bag where divisions like Cadillac had their own buckles. Factors such as 1) option code or 2) Dealer installed complicate GM's logic even more. So matching the Buckle pictured? Want to have a matching set for the rear? Black should be easy. What I know now is that I should've purchased universal seatbelts from my local vendor and saved $$$. Aftermarket: The original 7/16" bolt with has been deemed "un-safe" by all the places I consulted (Pix). The 1/2" shoulder is too big for the 7/16" in aftermarket seatbelts. However, the original bolt can be purchased from places like OPGI. Only a 7/16" grade-5 bolt is approved by suppliers. Frustrating to shop on-line for aftermarket seatbelts. Their images usually show the belt BUCKLED! What help is that! John B.

I had planned to simply use the whole shifter assembly with the starter/backup switch for 1965. The wiring does reach especially since I added a micro-switch for daytime running lights on the Dynaflow shifter. One of the shifters I purchased came without a Knob. I agreed since I have several and will reduce shipping weight. However, it was also missing the chrome push button. Useless! Good score on those wheels David! Parts-a-plenty in So. Cal. I'm fearful for my center caps if parked out in public unattended. This is what makes our rides impractical as Drivers. Best to keep all center caps off. John B.

I need to buy yet another 1965 Riviera Shifter and I'll have all the parts for an ST400 switch-pitch swap. I'm hoping my 3rd purchase will be a charmer. I've loved TH400s in my early days. But I'll love the last year of the Dynaflow when it's on the shelf! On Rust, I have a set set of Grand National wheels from back in the day. I used them for winter wheels since they had plenty of rust blemishes even back in the '80s. I still have them but the car is long gone. I toyed with the idea of powder coating them - 4.75" X 5. So, only good for other GMs with those hubs. John B.

This has been brought-up before. I think what is meant by blocking the Cross-Over is to run with a cold intake. Not good as the intake manifold is already divorced from the engine on the nailhead. I think Tom meant blocking at the carburetor flange. ("no heat under the carb" or no heat under the plenum?) Chris, I am curious on the Edelbrock AFB Clone carb assessment on our nailheads. How is the drive-ability? Any adjustments? Fuel consumption? 750 CFM good for a 401 too? As for micro-switch, the aftermarket is for kick-down. The original is for idle on switch-pitch transmissions (1965 & up). Nailhead parts are so difficult to find nowadays, I have accumulated SBB HW . The micro-switch for 1964 300 cu. in. is on the dashpot and is a direct bolt on to our nailheads. Probably easier to adjust too. John B.

Rust - In California? ? All you Guys have GS's with wood steering wheels, rear armrests and 2X4's! "I" have to deal with rust and can only boast about leather in my '63 - LOL! John B.

Edelbrock Micro-Switch? What Carburetor do you have, can't quite make it out. The challenge is to get that transmission combo-switch to work on the linkage for aftermarket carbs. In the '64s case, no switch-pitch. Only the kickdown contacts are used, John B.

Olle, I've done a lot of X-Border shopping and although I have never been burned 100% (not receiving goods), about 2/3rds of the items have been substandard, incomplete or totally useless. This is for new and used parts and after my government and those rip-off courier companies have thrown every conceivable hardship fee at me! One Vendor that I've dealt with, < <CLARK'S CORVAIRS > > has constantly provided no-nonsense quality products with no-nonsense turn-around. If I had any complaint, they do not use my preferred USPS for shipping. But, they are so good, I gladly tolerate a courier delivery. They have an upholstery shop and do LEATHER! The receipt below from yesterday shows the turn-around. The order is en-route and I'm sure I'll be 100% please with the product! Thank-You Clark's Corvairs for catering to 1st Generation Riviera Owners!

Ah, I remember my Riviera luck in the early days. Cross Border shopping into Canada back in the late 80's was a fixed $100 or so (don't want to remember). I instructed CARS not to back order anything, just delete unavailable items. Well, he back-ordered the hood emblem. When it arrived, I was slapped with duty, taxes and that $100 fixed processing fee. It's about the size of a quarter! To top it off, I used the wrong glue and most of it melted away! Today, They seem to let shipments through that are under $100 using USPS. But Vendors prefer those greedy courier companies and their hardship fees. I have an early '63 and it has no B U I C K on the trunk lid. It appears to be original or maybe a previous owner replaced it with with a '64? I've owned mine longer than any previous owner or, it has owned me (40 years). Being a westerner, I'm partial to the west but Turbinator's country seems very nice. Love those rolling hills! John B.

Those Flow Kooler Water Pumps have been around that long? They are a proven product then? All new, not rebuilt? Off-shore manufactured? John B.