Parccent65

There appears to be a connectivity issue with the relay (?). If I disconnect and reconnect the connector with the three wires — the high speed heater fan works, but temporarily — like several days. The connector looks very worn (see photos). Are these very easy to find? The heater fan on high isn't as strong (but it does work) as the AC fan on high — are these two separate fans? Thanks for your replies.

My Riviera has factory AC and there is a Blower switch for the AC and a Blower switch for the Heater/Defroster. The highest speed (fan) for the heater isn't working but the other lower speeds do work. On the AC Blower ALL speeds work and I believe it has a 30 Amp fuse for it. Is there a separate relay or something else for the high heater speed? Does that 30A fuse cover both the AC and Heater blower lower speeds?

Does anyone have experience with this company/seat covers (for standard interior)? I've seen some negative reviews (about their taking forever to get) but that's about it. OPGI sells front seat upholstery/covers and it may be made by the same manufacturer. The photo looks the same. Or if you know of any other manufacturers of these.

Minnesota 612

The vents on my car will open and close tightly with no problem. Then, the next day or later the same day they will just make a clicking sound and after a few attempts, they operate normally again (today is the very first day the passenger side vent just clicked and wouldn't open). Mine ALWAYS open and close all the way with no "help". The next step will be to replace the top gear.

The window does close all the way. 🙂 Seems like it just started doing this after I sprayed some WD-40 inside the door. I read in another thread on here that can solve some PW issues. The main window does go up and down more smoothly and the vent turns faster as well. Good to know where I can get a gear.

My 65 Riv has power vents and the master switch seems to be worn out or something. I would have to press abnormally hard to get the passenger side to operate but the driver side seemed fine. Lately the driver side motor either will just click or open/close the window BUT the motor keeps running after the window finishes it's travel as long as you hold the switch (but if you let go of it and press it again the same direction it doesn't continue to run). I got a new double switch and pigtail (came with it but the switch fits without it). The new switch corrected the passenger side issue but so far it' s not affecting the driver side consistently. I'm wondering why the motor keeps running on the driver's side. Hopefully it's not the motor. At least the window works fine — most of the time. Any ideas?

When I bought it the steering wheel on my '65 base model had two horizontal thin silver bars on the horn button and the plastic cloisonné was damaged in the middle. I found a replacement online and the parts car was also a base model — however it did NOT have the horizontal bars. See photos of my before wheel and after. Was one a GS steering wheel or did they produce the two designs through the production run? They're almost the same — it seems odd.

It was weird back in the day how a buyer could tailor a car how they wanted it to the smallest detail — unlike now, where so many cars are sold loaded or close and options are so often part of packages and that's the only way you can get them. Mine also has a factory rear defroster, air conditioning, power antenna and power seat.

My '65 does not have a tilt steering wheel and everything I've read about the '65s says it was standard. I guess it's possible they could have paid to delete it? My car also has the standard trim interior but has power vent windows. Was the tilt steering wheel first offered on the '63?

I've had both inside door panels off my '65 with standard interior and got them reinstalled but now I'm having trouble getting the passenger side back in position after putting on new power window connector "pigtails". Just wondered if there are any tricks to getting it in the proper position. It's tough to keep the power window connectors connected while at the same time "hooking" the top edge onto the door and the pushbutton lock through the hole it goes through. Should the window be up or down when installing the panel or does it make it any easier one way or the other? Thanks

Do you blow out the channel with compressed air then? A lot of GM cars had this happen.

I want to redo the package tray on my '65 with black standard interior/rear defroster and am not sure which one to go with. My options are: a Clark's tray, an ebay press board tray, or an OPGI light board tray that comes with a jute pad that goes underneath. I want to keep the defroster as it works. The tray currently in the car is fiberglass that is padded and covered with vinyl (could possibly be a Clark's tray?). What l don't like about it is the rear shape of it doesn't conform to the rear window edge very well (it's lower on the outside edges) so the previous owner placed a filler vinyl strip to fill the gap and it doesn't look good (maybe it did at one time). Also there is an awkward gap where it meets the chrome speaker grill. On a lot of them I've seen, this part butts up to the speaker grill and I like the look of that. It appears that the speaker grille "nubs" on the top edge were made to insert into the slots in the metal structure behind the seat but I'm not sure. The non-vinyl covered trays may not look the best if it is cut off abruptly along the edge where it meets the window, either. It sounds like the factory original tray in most cases didn't hold up very well which isn't surprising with all the sun beating down on it, etc. Thanks

The package shelf in my car is generally in good shape. It's covered in padded black vinyl. The problem is the trim piece/gasket above the outer edge where it meets the window is in bad shape. Is this the way it was originally done? It looks like this thin strip is vinyl as well. I don't know if this is all original or not. I wonder if I can buy a replacement gasket? Some of the trim pieces around the doors look like they were hand made so that might be the case with this. I'm really curious if the upholstery in this car is original. Most parts look like they can't be 55 years old but others do — like a couple buttons worn and pulled loose on the driver's seat. Maybe it was redone 20 years ago. The other problem is where the package shelf meets the chrome radio grille (between the two seats) the padded vinyl doesn't wrap over far enough so there's this small but noticeable gap. I've jerry rigged it the best I can but I can see ultimately having the package shelf redone and that part fixed. That chromed grille is HEAVY. It amazes me how heavy the majority of the parts are on this car. Maybe that's why it's survived. Thanks

I had the lighter repaired and the shop replaced it with an after market unit that doesn't have the slots to hold the light and I don't know what they did with the one that was there. I may just have to go without it unless I can find one.