XframeFX

I found this thread (Nov 2017) where Bluesy66 has a '65 ST-400 in a '64 Riviera and questioning linkage arrangements. At least the '64 has the combination kickdown/switch-pitch with a harness for just the kickdown contacts. He is halfway there with the '64 setup. I'm replacing a Dynaflow with mechanical switch-pitch. Not so lucky. However, his image is for a '64 nailhead. Still looking for the same image for a '65 nailhead and wire harness schematic. If what you're saying Ed, it appears the '65 does have a dashpot with the micro-switch. So based on my assumption that the '64 ST-300 is the same, I'll start a search for a dashpot (have the switch) and build a wire harness according to my '64 manual in the ST-300 section. I modified a crimper for packard-56 connectors so it should look OEM. Only wish I had that stubborn bootie Joey (RivVrgn above) had to deal with!

Thanks Ed. But, of my 2 shop manuals (1963 & 1964), my '64 manual shows the Switch-Pitch setup for the ST-300 which also had the 2 internal transmission solenoids. The same wiring for the 1965 ST-400? Also, Carburetor primary shaft linkage on the nailhead, the same components and setup as on the Buick 300 (again, '64 manual)? Under hood online images of 1965 Rivieras have the linkage area blocked by the air cleaner. The 1st image is of a 1964 300 cu in w/AFB and has the kickdown switch removed with no evidence of a dashpot/microswitch. Same setup on 1965 Rivieras? The 2nd image is not an AFB but shows all components on the linkage to the Rochester 2BBL. John B.

On this topic but on the other end of the wire harness, can someone post a snipit from a '65 manual showing the variable pitch / kickdown switch and dashpot arrangement? My '63 shop manual is to old and my '64 manual shows it for the ST300. Same? Also wire diagram/schematic for this wire harness? Thanks, John B.

Gord, try Steel Rubber. They have sets or lengths, chrome bead or none. After spending too much time changing the outers and requiring more strips, I left the inner strips as is. John B.

No mention here on what year 1st Generation Riviera. Original inner "whisker strips" are the same for all 3 years. However these were also on the outer as is the case with my '63. I thought original outer strips on the '65 were the "rubber wiper" similar to other GM's of that year. Correct? 1964 Riviera outer strips? I recall changing the Outer Strips without having to remove the door skins on my '63 because for that year it is attached to the stainless moulding with staples. Bernie's comment on quality, I agree and thought my expectations were too high. Or, having flakey fit and function part of hardtop evolution? Shouldn't that whisker strip contact the glass when fully raised and continue that contact as the glass is lowered to the full down (cruising) position? Adjusting the glass would be a lot of trial and error with the door skin off and on multiple times. Steele Rubber mentions felt strips for the inner panel only. GM was in transition with it's hardtops during production of the 1st Gen. Rivieras. The '63 Riviera was the 1st pillar-less hardtop with frame-less glass that was flat. 1964 saw the new A-Body hardtops with frame-less curved glass. 1965 this same feature was applied on full-sized hardtops, all with rubber wipers. So I thought '65 Riviera's were updated with the same rubber wiper mounted directly on the door skin without the moulding. John B.

Ray, go for Tom's set-up! You will also need the Drive-Shaft and Pinion Flange. Will work nicely with the 3.23:1 in your Riviera. And oh, my pinion flange needs restoration too. The 4 threads are rusted-out! Switch-pitch torque converters are difficult to find today. I found mine the hard way. Tom, a '65 GS? Must be rusty.

Thanks Dave and Tom for helping me with the planning stage. So many parts to fix before I can even begin with the Dynaflow - ST-400 swap and don't ask what these parts costed me thus far! I thought that ST-400 in my possession since the mid 80's was the bulk of the cost. It too needs re-building. If I had to braze-on a switch-pitch bell-crank, I'd have to remove the AFB Primary shaft (residual fuel). If I did that, might as well swap into my '63 AFB. Or better yet a new Edelbrock Performer Carb (inter-changeable?) On a new Performer Carb, 750 CFM on a 401 with original intake correct size? "Porting", you mean a dual plane conversion? If so, a larger Carb? Not keen on the latter as this is project is becoming bigger than a house. Keeping with an original AFB top on a new Carb will allow use of the original Air Cleaner. It is also a better casting for what its worth. Yes, that plastic adapter ring, but hood clearance is tight. In keeping modifications to a minimum, a 1966 Nailhead Spreadbore intake with a matching switch-pitch Rochester QJ would be nice. Won't be able to use the Riviera Air Cleaner though. 20 MPG back-in-the-day with such a set-up. Last weekend I bought a seized '65 shifter and this weekend I am combining it with another and fitting it inside the original '63 console. I found raising it 5/8" will allow for the longer throw within the Dynaflow console top. Spending way too much time on it. It won't un-seize and the other is missing the chrome push button. Somehow I have to pull off that chrome push button without damaging it! 1963 push buttons appear to be silver soldered-on. Ray, I was on the OD path when I swapped one of my Chev TH-400's for a TH-700-R4 in the '90s. I think the other Guy got a better deal. Procrastination was good in that I learned over the years from other 700-R4 swaps that it wasn't worth the effort. Sure there are other OD transmissions being better. A clean swap would be that Nailhead bellhousing for the 4L60E (no kinked speedo cable too!) Ask around how people liked the drivability of that swap. Still, has wide gear ratios like the 700-R4. On the ST-400, consider this, a smaller 12" switch-pitch torque converter may make my 3.23:1 final drive feel like it had a 3.49:1 on acceleration. So with that thought, spending $$$ to change to a shallower ratio will give you lower cruising RPMs while still giving performance when the switch-pitch is in high. Careful not to go too shallow of a ratio, the Riviera is heavier than the Skylark where the 12" unit came from. A high differential RPM at cruising speeds will defeat economy. 1965-66 Rivieras had 13" VP Torque Converters.

Art, the last 2 pages of Section 10. Your fuse block is consistent with my '64 Canadian Buick Manual for 4400 to 4800 Full Size Buicks on page 156. 1963 Buick Manual has it all crammed in to 1 page. The early '63 Riviera's had a separate harness for the power antenna like the Electro-Cruise and power windows. It was a 12 circuit fuse block limitation until the 17 circuit fuse block common with your '64 was used. Both '63 fuse blocks used the 'clock' slot. as mentioned earlier, GM had some reason for your arrangement. Continuity between the 2 circuits is 1 thing, voltage is another. perhaps the 2 Red wires melted in the harness as no GXL or SXL automotive wire existed back then. Test by removing the Courtesy & Clock fuse and test for 12V at the clock or simply if the Clock keeps going on the power antenna circuit.

Art, so do you have 12V to the Clock? As for the wiring, the '64 Shop Manual shows no fuse for the 'fuse' slot but the 2nd from the top is labeled 'Courtesy & Clock'. It has the double Red crimping on the fuse clip. Not very good protection if you ask me going from 2A to 5A. The power antenna has a single Red termination on that fuse clip. No Clock on it. Note that one side of the fuse block is 12V live (Red feed) and the middle and opposite side are 12V switched (Brown feed). Also, those fuse clips are rusty on practically all old GMs even from dry climates. So removing and re-installing a fuse in a suspect circuit might make for a better contact. Using 'NO-OX-ID' for all fuse clips even better. I see you still have the odometer reset knob!

Thanks TelRiv, using just the primary throttle shaft from that 300 V8 LeSabre AFB was my intention. I was hesitant when the wrecking yard was firm on $100 (just for the shaft!) But, I was also thinking about a new Edelbrock Performer 1411 750 cfm with not only the old AFB top on it but also that Primary shaft. It's been a while, I think I have to grind the tip of those screws with a dye grinder. Okay to re-use those screws with thread locker? Would that AFB (4331S) primary shaft with the desired bell-crank fit in a new carb? 750 cfm a good match? Could anyone scan a page from the '65 shop manual showing the throttle linkage on our nailheads with that kickdown/variable switch? I have only 1963 & '64 Manuals. Ray, TH-400s are not plentiful if you want the integral nailhead bell housing. Also, as mentioned here, there's simply not much room within the confines of the X-FrameFX (my handle LOL), ie: kinked speedo cable Thanks All, John B.

Dave, I've had TH-400s in previous projects, all good and is the reason for going this route to rid myself of that Dynaflow. Yes, no 4th gear but, a daily driver it is not. So, I've convinced myself the Variable Pitch feature is just as desirable as that OD. Also, the conversion will be OE quality. No messing with multiple adapters, TV cables and an altered drive-shaft. I have all parts but being core quality practically every part requires restoration before I can begin with the conversion. I just purchased a 2nd '65 Shifter to combine into 1 good shifter. I have an incorrect AFB from a 300 cu in '64 LeSabre but has the correct bell crank on the primary shaft. And so it goes. On the TH-700-R4, I've seen conversions on non Rivieras with Owners not completely happy with the results regardless of what final drive is used. Less than a 3.00 : 1 since it is such a wide ratio transmission. Too much of a jump between gears for the nailhead. John B.

Ha, I had it out with my Dealer on my 1st '87 Grand National order back in '86 and lost! Then late in '87 that same Dealer called me back (because GM Oshawa told him to follow-up on irate Customers) and invited me to re-order on a 2nd limited extended production of the same model. Only now more $$$$ and less options. I kept it for 13 years before that lacquer checking got real bad. On the 200-R4 behind that Turbo V6, it was sweet. In fact it was night and day with the whole power train just perfect and the chassis absolutely awful. Before I could answer when a friend asked if the excellent power train offset the chassis' short comings, he said maybe GM should've shipped the power train in a wooden crate! Oops, I'm dating myself! Today, my 3.5L Ecoboost with the 10-speed transmission is better than that Turbo Regal. John B.

A shallow rear gear might be better as the 700-R4 has a steep 1st gear, 3.06! I know of many 200-R4 conversions in non Rivieras and they all thought it was worthwhile, very satisfied when set-up properly. However, the torque capacity is lower that the 700 R4. The TH-200-R4, not really for big blocks. I have abandoned the idea of an OD trans, sold the 700-R4 and parts. Not wanting to veer away too far from original on my '63 Riviera, I've gathered all parts for an ST-400 with both 12" & 13" switch-pitch converters. Also, no TV cable to mess with! Yes, I'll be using the original 3.23 gears. An excellent site for wheel/geometry calcs: https://www.wheel-size.com/

Well, I see it's a California car. So, that's a plus. Still a lot of work to put together. I could've restored 2 vintage P/U Trucks for what it takes to do a Riviera. Put a time to what it takes to put it together and 2X it.

Oh, so now you need to remove the Relay and test it. That Website still has an NOS Relay listed on page #76, Lucky you. Everything I do on my Riviera is PITA. That repair will have you on-the-road soon. Not like the rest of us with a major strip and re-finish. Trunk Lid OK? John B.

Gary, So you have a Shop Manual. Did you test the Relay as per procedure in the manual? It is basically a holding relay. When engaging the Electro-Cruise while driving, if the light stays on at the switch, it's probably OK. Lucky yours 'sort of works'. I doubt if mine ever functioned at all. Everything is good except the actuator on the engine and that Flakey hairspring they call the transducer. I've modified mine with a Hall Effect sensor. I have yet to find out if it works because like your Riviera and I'm sure your have it striped for paint, it still has to be put back together. The Electro-Cruise has a narrow +/- 2.5 MPH range on that hairspring. Maybe that Setpoint needle is not aligned with the speedo needle. If you try to set it and it's not in that range, it won't energize that actuator. For that Relay, I found this late year on page #76 of their catalog: http://www.nospp.com/part-info.php?id=1373603&prev=gm&start=3750 Give your Riv an oil change after it comes out of the body shop!

Jack, I have some recent experience on Delco radios. If yours is not functioning, there's some interesting options out there. I ended up repairing/modifying my '63 radio. So, I haven't tried these guys but I like what I see on their website! http://www.tech-retro.com/Aurora_Design/Home.html John B.

Bob, dabbling into this with feedback from everyone, I'm inclined to stay original. Being familiar with everything on my Riviera except it's AC (at the start of of this), I'm thinking of 1) assessing my system by pressuring it. 2) changing components as necessary especially the hoses and 3) turning it over to a hand-picked pro to do the rest. I already have some parts and anticipate challenges with the vacuum switches alone. Also, there seems to be some parts for the original system out there. OldAirProducts have an evaporator. Would this be correct for the 1963 Riviera? Your Muffler, cleaning it out easy? No replacements out there? Can it be bypassed? You have 38 deg. F now? Wish I was there! John B.

Michel, if it is the switch and in my case it was. A replacement can be purchased for a Chev but without cornering lights. Also, beware of the mounting bracket as it might be different. Further to this, I've found an early '63 Riviera with the switch mounted differently at the bottom of the column. Lots of research went into this. What got me going was removing the switch and found the cable OK, then tested the switch out-of-the-car and found it intermittent. This started the whole ordeal of taking 2 switches apart (both were flakey) and building 1 good switch, all for wanting to keep my cornering lights. John B.

Jack, the 3 terminals are for Switched 12V/Speaker/Common (neg. ground). Unless you have an internal front/rear fader, that's all there is except for the antenna coaxial jack. Also, there's quite often no hook-up for the common because the radio cabinet is grounded. So, just 2-wires to the 3-contact connector. As for the coaxial split, perhaps a previous owner added a splitter that happened to have stereo printed on it. The splitter would share the same antenna between the original radio and an after-market auto-sound. I'm assuming no re-verb option with your ride. John B.

In continuing with assembling the Riv's interior, I am now encountering difficulty getting the top front of the console to engage with the dashboard. This must be a known problem because I have 3 consoles. The console that came with the Riviera is obviously not original because peeling paint reveals the wrong color. It is all beat-up and cracked with the top front tabs completely removed. I have a perfect un-altered console for a '65 and a 3rd '63 that has had the top front tabs partially removed. So, previous Owners have had this issue and their solution was to cut. If I remove the 2 black stamped steel vertical brackets, I can adjust the downward studs in the elongated holes to engage with those 2 tabs. Still a poor fit with the shifter too far to the right. I could cut elongated holes in the brackets which would work for the right side but not the ignition switch side. Question: Are those vertical brackets the same for all 3 years of production? I'm working with an early '63 Riviera, would this have been another mid-production change meaning an improved design? Thanks, John B.

Back in the early '90s I did this exact same thing with an emblem that arrived as a button only from CARS. I used the wrong adhesive as it dissolved some of the artwork. It is still there today and can barely see the tri-shield. Maybe clean-up the platform, bolt it in-place and then stick on the button with something gentle such as silicone RTV. I know it's just a sealant but the surrounding hood spear should hold it in. John B.

Definitely a balancing act for the next owner. 1) Enjoy it as a summer driver. or, 2) Combine it with another car with mostly DIY work. It has AC, has what appears to be a good windshield and original! Since getting back into Rivieras a few years back, I've come across too many Rivs being parted-out including a KX that was rusted way worse than this one. Keep it going and off the grass! John B.

Difficult to find anything nailhead nowadays without going online. An equally scarce intake is the '66 Spreadbore for a single Rochester Quadrajet and still abundant at wreckers but not with the variable pitch bellcrank. No sexy air cleaner though. Then there's the Carter TQ, only 2 choices for the spreadbore manifold. Not sure on performance but good for fuel mileage on primarys. Love that "Waaaa" sound when the secondarys open!

Success! The electrical bulkhead for the Riviera is "IN" I was down to my last idea: With the grommet in-place on the firewall, I removed 3 connectors from the bulkhead and inserted 3 chunks of 5" long 6-32 ready-rod. I lathered-on more of the slipperiest goop I had and used a 5/16th deep socket to draw the bulkhead evenly across the 3 studs into that stubborn grommet. What I learned with this setback? Never remove the electrical bulkhead from a 1st gen Riviera. Rather release the 12 individual connectors and 2 lugs from the bulkhead. It will be painful re-inserting those connectors but that grommet is much worse! Image #1, ready for connectors Image #2 shows under-dash side of the bulkhead after drawing it into the grommet before removing the 3 studs (2 studs showing).